All Things Z - Deep Dive - Marlin Tricks - Chris's Basement 

I misspoke on that and just noticed it yesterday. 🙄 I put a note in the comments. Hopefully, at the end when I talk about the feature it makes since.

@@ChrisRiley no worries such things happen not a big deal, we love your work and the effort you put in these videos, keep up the good work 👍🏼👍🏼

I have an Ender-3 with a SKR mini E3 v2.0, so in this case I can follow the 1st process you describe (14:10 - 16:40)? I have to disconnect also the z-endstop? Do you think that I can add g34 in cura slicer at the beginning of every printing? Yours video are always so helpful!!! Many many thanks...

@@mitsre Yes, you should be able to set this up. You will have to flash Marlin I am guessing. Leave you Z endstop connected. Yes, just add the G34 in your start gcode.

I know im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me

I agree. The breakout boards run them in parallel. It is possible to run them in series. I've done that when I needed more current but it is not commonly done.

After looking around there are some ticky configs out there, thinking about collecting a bunch of them and doing a recap video.

I agree with @rogernettles6719, I think the splitter cable is connected in parallel. Also if the motors were in series you should increase the Voltage and not the current. Nevertheless, it is just a common confusion. Nice work @EdTannenbaum! Thanks for sharing your deep knowledge!

I know, I botched this, I am thinking about making a follow up video on it.

You are correct, I put out an update and add something to the comments.

@@ChrisRiley Electrically speaking, breakout splitter or by cable extension, all connections to a single driver are parallel.

I love the Drum Roll .. :)

Yay! Thank you!

👍

Those both do the same thing, but for different features. It sets the Z stepper location.

Hmmm...maybe, I think you could probably find a right mix of config for that in Marlin.

Value engineering.

On that board it's going to be hard to get this working. To make it useful you would need 2 different Z drivers. You are correct, if the drivers are standalone you can't adjust the current.

I see you have gone another direction, but yes, in 2.1 the option names have changed a bit.

Check out Z tilt www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html#z_tilt

Yes, I go messed up when I made this video, I meant parallel.

As far out as you can get will get you the best results.

Yes, currently 2130's, 2209's and for larger motors 5160's and 5161's.

You could be running into ABL fade. I would try to run a print with out ABL and see if you have the same issue.

You bet! Hmmm, the only thing I can think of is the Z size thinks it's bigger than it actually is. So it has to come down further than it thinks. Try adjusting that setting.

I will have to check into this. I'm not sure what things have changes in Marlin 2.1

That's awesome you are able to get them so tuned it. Well done! Thanks for watching the videos!

It is here. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

I looked at the 1.4 again, you are correct this is parallel. I was thinking they would have stuck with the old RAMPS setup but they didn't. It seems everyone you look at is different

The 2 aren't tided together. The G34 is just a guess on how level you X is to your bed. You will then have to let UBL pick up the slack from there. I would G34 first.

Yes, it's the Big Brain system. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V4u0UnHD9Tw.html

Thanks Greg.

Hey Jon, so only thing I can think of is the Z2 settings in configuration_adv.h is set to a different step rate then the Z motor is. Try clearing eeprom as well. M502 then M500.

Yes, that would help for sure.

That's what I would recommend something that you can confirm the gantry is all the way up and level. Maybe even a couple of washers on top of you Z nut as a test.

Interesting.

We will tackle that in another video.

It's in here. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

Yes, Tr8-2's are really hard to backfeed.

I flipped through the video, not sure the STL you are talking about.

I think it's just how I have the sound setup for videos. And how much coffee I have had.

What is your LCD screen setting?

I don't exactly remember what I was referring to, but my guess is I was talking about Z offset. You are setting the offset relative to z MIN.

They are parallel, for some reason when I made this video I was having a bad day and got my words mixed up. :)

I wouldn't, I would want as much stability left and right as I could get.

Hey, i'm not sure what part you are talking about, can you give me a time stamp where you see it?

You're welcome! Thanks for watching

Glad I could help

You can change up what spots it uses to probe, there is a map in configuration_adv.h with your options, just not sure how that would work for Y.

This is true.

Hey, yes, you can use the probe pins but you will have to move the wires around. MT_DET would be easier, if you're not using it as it is wired the same as the endstops. Check pinout: github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TinyBee/blob/main/hardware/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003%20PIN.pdf You want to use pin 2 if using the probe/servo pin. Change this in configuration_adv.h //#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS) //#define Z2_STOP_PIN X_MAX_PIN // Z2 endstop pin override To this: #define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS) #define Z2_STOP_PIN 2 // Z2 endstop pin override

This is great thanks I'll try your suggestions in due course Thanks for your attention😊@@ChrisRiley

SKR Mini only has 4 drivers, you would need 5 to do that config.

@@ChrisRiley okay that makes sense! Thank you, do you have a suggestion for my best option?

You Z steps are probably set to incorrectly, makes sure this line is set like this. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 }

@@ChrisRiley Chris, bang on!! I finally figured out that the 'Z' setting here being at 4000 was too high. It's set to 400 and the 'Z' is working fine now. What was happening here is I was updating Marlin but my MB wasn't updating because I didn't realize we had to 'SAVE' the updated firmware to the EEPROM or all would be lost. Even though I've been 3D printing for 5yrs+, updating firmware was too complex to me. Now with Marlin, newer quieter drivers etc, I decided to take the plunge. Unfortunately, there's not one single video out there eg: "Operating your Printer" Installing FW Updates/Printing/G-Code. A video explaining how to update FW to any MB and what one MUST do to succeed with the update, including what EEPROM 'Reset' does or what 'LOAD' does etc. When and 'how' to use the USB cable to the MB, or when to use the TFT SD card reader, or USB port on the TFT. You have no idea how many videos I watched before finally hearing one guy say "don't forget to SAVE your upload or it'll be lost" and THAT very brief mention solved my upload issue and eventually being able to change my 'Z' speed. Please don't misinterpret me, your videos are so helpful and well produced but don't forget, some of us are NOT well versed in 3D print or Marlin terminology. Maybe you could do a series 'For Newbies' and an 'Advanced' series. Believe me I do alot of research prior to posting questions and I like trying to figure things out on my own but sometimes...... One more question. When you make changes using G-code (via Pronterface or directly from the TFT) shouldn't we also reflect those changes in Marlin? I've never heard mention of this and I wonder, if we do a change with g-code then won't that change be lost with the next Marlin update to the MB? Thanks for your patience with me and be safe!

I currently run a SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0.7.2

@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I have some problem , but solve it. In platformio.ini I have bad env setting .. from atmega2560 change to rambo . Your videa are super. Step by step is good for all not only for beginner .. best regards.

Yes, another video, I am still trying to find a printer that is will work well on. It's kind of picky.

They still show it on github, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h line 3384.

@@ChrisRiley Hmm .... Well that is strange indeed. I downloaded my Marlin Code from the exact same place. I wonder why none of mine have it in it. In fact the configuration_adv.h for most of my builds end at line 3095 with the exception of my BTT GTR which I use a custom Branch for. I just re-downloaded it and it is indeed in there so I am a bit perplexed. I basically start my builds from scratch using the default config files that is in it and not from the examples or what is now in the import configuration download. Oh well. At least I got it all straighten out now. Thanks for the help. Now I just have to go through my current build to copy the settings and insert them into my new downloaded version. Also not sure if I will end up using the Mechanical Gantry Calibration in the end as I just purchased more TMC2209 to try the 2 driver method. I will have to decide which version I like. :)

That is about the easier thing to do, some printers create parts that ride on the Z nut for this purpose.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris... finally I managed to use the two Z steppers method much easier than expected

Yes, there are a lot of belt Z machines out there. That is a whole different animal I will touch on in another video.

@@ChrisRiley Wow, I am looking forward for that video. Thanks a lot, keep making such great videos! //R

G34 reenergizes the motors if it needs to.

I think it is in there now, if not it should be soon.

@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the encouragement. Waiting on my replacement controller board to try it out.

Not sure on the Creality board options. It really depends on hardware. They can both be just as good.

@@ChrisRiley ok ill just hook it up as the kit suggests..

The bracket is in this project. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3

@ChrisRiley Thank You :)

That is correct, I misspoke.

@@ChrisRiley awesome fast response :) did enjoy your vid

I'm not sure I understand your question?

I saw many new corexy with dual z have balance on top. But when make hardware stop on top, have fixed level on nozzle. So if change shorter nozzle, must rebuild all printer. So i am not sure, how to properly solve it.

Glad to hear it, I hope to get to close loop steppers sometime soon.

Yep, I have had a few belt Z printers over the years, Voron has kind of brought them back.

You should be able to just change to 2 motors and multi endstops. This is in configuration_adv.h #if NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS > 1 //#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS

@@ChrisRiley trued that mate dint work but now iv sorted bot the z motor homing now, only problem iv got now is the bltouch im struggling with it i want both the zmotors running as they are now but i now need to addd bltouch to the zmax endstop as thatsw the only one avialable

Glad I could help!

Thanks 👍

Thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it!

That is awesome! Thanks for watching

Great point.

@@ChrisRiley I have a frankenstein CR10 using this one : www.thingiverse.com/thing:2829855

@@lowellhouser7731 Sweet! Thanks for the link.

Thank you!

No need to disconnect your Z endstop. Yes, you can add the G34 to your start gcode. You may need to flash marlin to use it.

just watched the video and i also noticed that, checked the skr 1.4 schematic and the terminals are indeed connected in parallel to the z driver

Check out the description, I just got my words flipped.

@@ChrisRiley true that :D

There seems to be all different kind of configs on this, I am thinking about collecting a bunch of them and doing another video on it.

You can use a BLtouch to do this.

@@ChrisRiley I have one question use BL touch and operate according to bad level two separate Z Axis motor for bed leveling .

Thanks! I am not sure if the stock board has another endstop port. The second endstop wouldn't do much good without a second Z motor.

Thanks! Will do!

Thanks Mark, that's a good question, we might be able to work that out.

A lot of printers use the "skipping step" method. It's not actually physically skipping, so i think the harm it might do would be very minimal.

If you have a probe it can.

lol, good question.

Thanks!

There are 2 ways you can use G34, I saw the single driver first then the dual driver method.

@@ChrisRiley I tried this with my Sovol SV01 with the Creality 2.2.1 Silent Board upgrade ( sovol3d.com/products/upgraded-v2-2-silent-mainboard-with-tmc2208-driver-for-sovol-sv01 ). It has TMC2208's soldered to the board -- and apparently they are in "standalone" mode OOTB (not sure if it can be changed on the board). The OOTB config requires me to configure Marlin with "TMC2208_STANDALONE" instead of just "TMC2208"...and then when I compile using Auto Build Marlin 2.0.7.2 with that "TMC2208_STANDALONE" configuration setting, VSCode reports '#error "It is highly recommended to have adjustable current drivers to prevent damage. Disable this line to continue anyway."' If I try to configure Marlin with just "TMC2208", then the LCD reports "TMC COMMUNICATION ERROR". Ideas?

If I’m correctly understanding the difference between the modes: stand-alone mode is no UART communication; UART mode obviously has communication

@@philipschlesinger7595 That is correct, standalone has no communication and you can't set the driver current via software, that's why it is throwing that error.

@@ChrisRiley I ended up using your technique for reusing the E1 as Z2 on the Creality 2.2.1 board. Worked like a charm! Only thing I had to do is add a 5th heat sink.

Wow, thanks a lot man!

Hmmm...in 2.0.7.2 it is on line 3384

@@ChrisRiley ?? we are suppose to be on the same 2.0.7.2, but mine is at line 3455

@@jtl789456123 hmmm

Hi Chris problem sorted I downloaded the separate configeration

Sorry. Configuration files and used the Creality Ender 3 example folder

I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching

Hey Fred, sounds like there is a retraction in there that is too far. I would have to see that piece of gcode to see what is up.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I will have a look at my retraction settings, but unfortunately everything is on hold for now because my MB a BTT SKR 1.4 has packed in, I had a failed print yesterday because the thermal runaway protection kicked in and stopped the print. From then on, any attempt to pre-heat the bed causes Marlin to request a reset, the temp display will not rise above 8 degrees. I thought it must be a faulty bed thermistor, but after carrying out some tests with my multimeter on the thermistor and then the wiring, everything checked out OK, so I ordered a new MB which will arrive today. Hey-ho, the joys of 3D printing😢. I will let you know the outcome when I have fitted the new SKR 1.4, this may be of interest to other viewers of this post.

@@m0gga Good Luck Fred, keep us posted.

@@ChrisRiley The MB is fitted now and the printer is up and running again, I still need to have a look at those retraction settings but I am in the middle of a twenty hour print job at the moment so that will have to wait for now, thanks again for your help so far.

@@ChrisRiley Well I found the problem with retraction, it was a 4.5mm retraction in my Cura start gcode, all is working fine now, thanks for pointing me in the right direction 👌

Glad you enjoyed it

Well, they kind of are fighting.

@@ChrisRiley Haha, true dat.

Yep, belt Z seems to be coming back. That is a whole different subject we will tackle.

@@ChrisRiley I'm definitely looking forward to that!

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad it was helpful!

Glad I could help!

Thanks for the tip!

My wife likes to give me a thumbs down every once in a while to keep me humble. She must have forgotten. 😉 Thanks for watching

Thanks for sharing

I think slicer is probably still the best/safest.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks, will do.

Yes, that is correct for all dual-Z plug SKR boards except SKR Pro and GTR. He just noticed that in another comment.

I looked at the 1.4 again, you are correct this is parallel. I was thinking they would have stuck with the old RAMPS setup but they didn't. It seems everyone you look at is different

Thanks for watching. I corrected this mistake in the description.

Thanks!

Thanks for your insight!

Check the description

I looked at the 1.4 again, you are correct this is parallel. I was thinking they would have stuck with the old RAMPS setup but they didn't. It seems everyone you look at is different

Yes, you are right.

I looked at the 1.4 again, you are correct this is parallel. I was thinking they would have stuck with the old RAMPS setup but they didn't. It seems everyone you look at is different.

I completely understand and feel your pain. Thank you for watching.