All You Need To Know About FILM SCANNING With A Digital Camera. Beginner Friendly 

thank you for the support and positive feedback. My workflow is really a lot better now. 😄

I have also seen this before. Isn't this just an intermediate step that can be skipped because in the end neither height nor framing are correct? This is not meant to be a criticism I just haven't tried it myself yet. 😄

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel You adjust the height and framing and after that, you put the mirror on top of the film holder/film and do the fine-tuning (skipping altogether the fiddling with levelers). This way it doesn't matter if, for instance, your table is a bit wonky.

yes i may have gone a little overboard with praise (a little lol) but my god if you had to scan with the cucumber i had before you would say the same thing. 😅

Thanks, good to hear!

Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad you found the video helpful in simplifying the scanning process. The Valoi route sounds like a great option, especially if it offers modularity and allows you to customize your film holder according to your needs.

you're welcome. har also took a long time until I had finished the whole tutorial. :D

Love to hear that, thanks for the support!

thank you brendon. :D oh you have a xt-4? then you could really try! I bet with riser you come if you are really fast certainly under 5min per roll 😄

Thanks for your kind words! I try to make my videos as clear and easy-to-follow as possible, so it's great to hear that my instruction set was well-received. And of course, I always aim to start things off with a bang, so I'm glad you enjoyed the intro!

You're welcome. 😄

you're welcome.

Nice to hear. Honestly, I also watched way too many at the beginning. 😄

I'm glad that I could help to unravel the issue for you. ✌️

you're welcome, glad I could help.

Thank you, yes it comes out at least one more video :D The essential filmhodler is really good but in principle also only the standard module of the valoi. Which is then in any case in euro almost three times the price for 35mm. The advancer is expensive but also a real relief. :D

thank you very much. ✌️

Thank you, too kind. 😀

Wow, I had no idea that enlarger lenses could be used for photography as well. Thanks for bringing this to my attention! It's always great to have more options for lenses, especially if they're affordable. I'll definitely look into getting my hands on one of these M39 mount lenses.

oh hey thanks to you reimann :D try it out you will be surprised how much time it saves you compared to a scanner. You already have the right camera. If you now get the sigma 70mm macro you have a perfect base. 😀

you're welcome. :D thanks for watching.

am already on it and will also not take as long as the scan video. ✌️

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Great tutorial series, so detailed, love it!👌🏻

thank you. :D

As Valoi assured me, it is only a myth. If you focus properly, it's exactly the same from both sides.

Sounds like a really cool setup you've built there. 👌 A speedlight is always a good choice for this.

Das ist natürlich auch einer wirklich guter Workflow. 👌 Ich hatte das mit Tethering mit meiner Fuji auch mal versucht aber dort muss man ständig den USB Modus wechseln. Da hat Fuji noch einiges nachzuholen. 80MP immer zu Hand zu haben ist auch ein echt guter Vorteil.

Haha ,yeah no more waiting time! :D

thank you very much! 😄

......of course!

Even me!

my pleasure. the PVL-S192 would of course also go is only quite large but has more power than the PLV-S104 with 11Watt. You would only have to watch that the LEDs do not have two different color values as described in the video. I also think F10 is set relatively high. You can try whether a lower aperture value also works. 😄

thanks to you, I have previously used a paper scalpel with white base and ruler but that was too cumbersome for me. now I use a small pair of scissors with which you can see neatly where you cut. :D But you have to be careful.

In principle, you can scan slides in the same way. Valoi also has an attachment designed specifically for such slides, allowing you to quickly digitize all the family photos. ✌️

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel ❤

The stimtm scanners are of course also a very good option especially for medium and large format. I looked on ebay CS500 is available for 2000€ and CS9000 for 3500-4000€. Think that is for most outside of the justifiable. Another problem is certainly also that the required operating systems for the software certainly still based on Windows XP times or older. Kyle Mc Dougall even had a comparison video of his CS9000 and a GFX medium format camera. They were on par. So even if the old scanners are really good, I think the future of film scanning is going to be in camera scan.

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel A couple of i observations from my previous quick experiments with digicam film scanning. If the camera has pixel shift high-resolution mode that can really benefit 120 scans. That'll pick up all the details that are there on film. Have you tried using strobes for lighting? You'll need the strobe behind a diffuser but it makes the process insensitive to ambient light conditions. The light spectral quality is (by design) good too. Also, getting the scan plane entirely orthogonal to the lens and dealing with bowed film is painful. Focus stacking can work if your camera can support that natively.

Even though both are good lenses they are unfortunately not macro lenses. You would only be able to fill a small part of your frame with them. I would still advise you to use a cheap macro lens or a macro adapter ring to start with.

ah hey, with the 6500 you already have a beast of a camera. however, the meike is unfortunately not the right one since it is not a macro lens. However, there are lenses from 7 artisans that are perfect for this. to mean the 60mm 2.8 which I also have alelrdings please be careful that you buy it for sony -e mount. so you have at least a perfect lens to start.

Oh thanks I will make sure I buy the right one

Yes indeed Lomo have later still released the digitaliza max. This is similar to Valoi and also has a push through system like Valoi and you can still see the sprockets. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o1CCinMbA3I.html

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Thank you!

oh hey, the information is only forwarded by valoi.

The 7 Artisans has 2:1 magnification, the Fuji 1:1, which means you don't get the entire negative on the image. However, you have autofocus and the result itself is sharper. I wanted to buy the fuji 60mm myself but haven't found a good deal yet.

i thought the fuji 60mm was not 1:1 , but rathaer 1:2@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel

@@d0rifto1 7artisans.store/products/60mm-f2-8 official site says 1:1 🤷‍♂

Oh, no, that's not a mistake at all. The M50 is even a bit too much. The camera doesn't have that much influence on the final quality. You'd better get a macro lens. I can't tell you which lens is good for M-mount. Probably one of the EF-S series with adapter. You would have to ask again in the Negative Lab Pro facebook group. They can certainly help you better. At least I can say that your results with macro lens will be better than with V600. 👌

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Much appreciated, V600 is kind of great for prints, at quite noticeable 1/3 price of a V850.... but scanning negatives in the true archival sense.....that was disappointing...ideally i'd just order scanning on Fuji sp3000 and go from there, as it turns out, can''t find any lab with that setup in Poland.... Valoi recommends sigma 70mm/canon 60mm f2.8 macro, again thank You for Your work and I appreciate You took the time to reply.

After you have shot the rolel i nder the camera you have to develop them afterwards or have them developed. If you open the film just like that, there is nothing on the film because everything is exposed. that is not good. :D so the order is: shoot film - develop - scan

unfortunately no, but 4x5 is also relatively large to be scanned flat. I think a normal flatbed scanner is still the most suitable.

Wenn du alles was du brauchst gebraucht kaufst dann hast du ja am ende falls du es nicht mehr benutzen solltest immer noch die Möglichkeit alles zu verkaufen. Die D5000 reicht eigentlich aus mit dem richtigen objektiv. Problem ist nur das du unter umständen Software brauchst. Allerdings werde ich das alles im nächsten Video vorstellen. Vielleicht hilft dir das dann die richtige Entscheidung zu treffen.

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Danke🙏🏽 also schlechter als die V370 kann es gar nicht sein denke ich. Falls du mit Software negative lab pro und Lightroom classic meins, die habe ich bereits schon :). Ich bin aber dennoch auf dein Video gespannt. Könntest du für die Nikon D5000 ein relativ günstiges Makro Objektiv empfehlen?

I actually wanted to make a video about it since this isn't even the only empty frame here in my apartment. I have real problems to choose pictures of me or other artists to hang them on my wall.

Since I don't have my own darkroom, I can't give you exact figures, but I think that the analog way is expensive just because of the constantly recurring costs of paper and chemistry. However, if you print a lot, it might be worth it if you don't need digital images of your negatives. I hope this answer helps you in some way.

Okay, I expressed that incorrectly. It's not the camera's interpretation but the raw interpretation in Lightroom that influences the raw image and, consequently, the negative. However, NLP naturally has the most significant impact on the negative.

oh hey, thanks for your detailed comment. I don't think you're surprised that I have to disagree on all three points. 😅 -the emulsion side down was a special request from valoi to mention it separately. (if anyone needs to know it then people who make film holders) You can of course shoot them the other way around but it has no advantage as scratches and other things are always visible on a transparent negative. - to convert the negative at the end you have to take the WB at the edge of the negative anyway. so it doesn't matter what you set before. At the end you can create a preset in lightroom that is correct before but you do not have to. -+1 may be helpful if you have a high contrast scene and bright dark skies. -DOF doesn't matter if you have a flat negative and everything is well focused. apart from that i also say that f5.6 is usually the best which has enough latitude to keep the negative sharp. -whether to use average or spot i could have said. but i don't think you would come up with the idea of using spot meter. -Adjusting the exposure on a roll only makes sense if you know that you have shot the majority of the roll in a constant brightness. Otherwise it has the advantage of not having to shoot with the same settings because all images are exposed in the same way. this means that in the end you always have the same exposure in negative lab pro and therefore less work to optimize the individual image.

youtube should actually provide automatically created subtitles. you'd have to take a look. :D

Of course you can also use a scanner, especially if you already have one. :D But if you don't have one it is: -billger(if you have a suitable camera) -higher image quality (if you don't have an Epson V850) -you don't need 5min to scan a picture but only 1/125 sec. :D

Depending on how much photography you do, it might be enough to just have your negative scanned in a lab. This might cost $10+ upwards but you don't have the high costs of additional equipment to begin with. However, it is cheaper in the long run. Of course you can also work with smartphones or super cheap scanners. However, the quality is so poor that it is not worth the time to even try these methods.

Of course you can also use a scanner, especially if you already have one. :D But if you don't have one it is: -billger(if you have a suitable camera) -higher image quality (if you don't have an Epson V850) -you don't need 5min to scan a picture but only 1/125 sec. :D

Yes true. I have also always wondered at the beginning, however, that has become so naturalized with most that you connect this term now with it. I do not make the rules. 🤷

Okay, I didn't think it would bother anyone.

@@TheBigNegative-PhotoChannel Just trying to make people aware. We are his and are made to worship him. Peace brother.

That's right I had totally forgotten about this, the cameras are really well suited for scanning.