Seriously Impressive. I've spent 20 years building out a full CNC machine shop business. With the end goal of building a car from scratch. It's looking like I could have just waited and 3d printed everything thing instead of 5 axis CNC everything. 3D print with some light finish machining is the future it seems.
hey man, I've had that thought too, id love to do that one day. the guy that started renishaw done that, I visited to train on a machine they bought, they built an awesome car (McMurtry automotive) also have you seen the zinger c1? the main body is a carbon monocoque with the front and rear subframes being 3d printed titanium, I believe it is also machined to get it to bolt together correctly but it would save a lot of machining time. I posted a quick video of it on my channel. 🙂
Just found this series and I am all about it!!!! Been thinking about engine swapping an I8 and knew about the engine constraints. Just binged all your videos then also Robs 13b 700hp video. Any reason why your not going Nexus? I assume its the BMW support for the CanBus on Max. What are your HP goals, why EFR? Not that smallest turbo to put within a restricted space. Awesome to see another New Englander jumping into a project like this.
Maxxecu was primarily chosen because it has native control of the DQ500 trans over CAN, as well as a super flexible CAN and custom tables/maps. I like the EFR because its all self contained. My original plan was for an EFR9180, but it was on backorder at the time and this 8374 has an upgraded Bullseye Power batmowheel compressor. Looking to get around 500whp to start, then lean on it a bit harder and see where I reach the point of diminishing returns. Thatll be a good step up from the 220 or 230 the factory ICE makes, and the additional power from the hybrid components will be there as well.
On flattening, I've also had luck using a mid-high grit sand paper glued to granite or glass as a flattening surface. Awesome work on this project! I also really dig how you are 3d printing jigs for machine work. I should have done this when making my fuel rails!
@@CouchBuilt check your local auctions. Surface plates from machine shops often sell for incredibly low prices. From what I've noticed, as a machinist and auction junkie, surface plates are one of the last items to have any attention given - often with only a single bid on them for the more visibly used ones. You can expect to get one for less than $50.
Exactly, I was looking at the writing and thinking that it will look very stock BMW with black wrinkle finish just before you made the comment about the colour.
This is incredible. Many rotary people suggest to add a heat shield between the intake manifold and the exhaust/turbocharger, it might have been nice to add a provision for that onto the intake manifold. Thanks for addressing the flange flatness, I wouldn't trust most of the belt sanders that I've used but it's it's hard to argue with a feeler gauge.
I work in the additive industry in SLM technology and it was very refreshing hearing and seeing your knowledge through out the video as you work with the printed parts you received. Metal AM is even more exciting for me when I see it in automotive application. Most definitely subscribing.
This is really cool to see. I love seeing 3d printing used for automotive parts, its rare that i get to do it on my own car since i cant afford metal printing but one of these days i hope to do lost pla casting to make a self made engine. The fusion export issue has to do with the level of detail settings when you export, fusion is honestly terrible at import and export stuff. Itll add more mesh the more features youve got in the area, so if its just a large tube it ends up low rez unless you turn the resolution up to a frankly ridiculous level. Until recently i was using fusion, but they booted me from the startup edition i was learning on, so ive switched to seimens solid edge (fully featured and free to makers and hobbyists) and honest to god its night and day better in every single way. One of these days ive gotta write a thank you to autodesk for forcing me to learn something else because noone would use fusion if they knew how much better everything else is. 😂
Completely awesome! I recently designed a throttle body adapter for a 13B intake manifold, which is a much smaller task. It was still very interesting to get quotes on having it CNC machined or 3D printed. I was surprised how expensive 3D printing metal was, but as the price comes down it will become more and more viable! I think for a seriously complex item like this where the cost of CNC would be so high, it's already reaching that crossover point. Not to mention when the geometry would be literally impossible for CNC as a single part. Really appreciate these videos!
Nice videos man. But you should have also welded the middle bar of the coolant intake on your intercooler. Wouldve been quite easy, just cut the intake cap on one side of the middle bar in half. Wasted performance, and, water could get pressed through the gap between the core and the middle bar and create cavitating. I know, highly unlikely at such low flow rates, but just a tip.
Would be be better welded? Maybe. One nuance you don't see is that the cap rocks on the center divider slightly, so that point has the greatest contact with the core. When its welded, the joint shrinks and pulls, drawing it in even more against the mating surface. With such low flow and having equal core on both sides, it really wasn't worth splitting the part for this use case.
@@CouchBuilt I know. Autism kicked in, and i had to point it out lol. Another question: do you plan to add any supports to the intake and exhaust manifold to support them? Like one thin walled strut from the underside of the intake manifold to the engine block. Seen that on a lot of OEM engines to prevent stress cracks on the flanges.
First time viewer. RU-vid recommended this video to me and I'm glad I clicked. Very neat presentation style, you're straight to the point but also good at showing/explaining everything that's going on and why without making it too drawn out. Will catch up on the rest of the vids and tune in for more 😃
Love the content. Love how you show your basic fusion360 info, and then the final part... not hiding issues or gotchas either. I do wonder why the velocity stacks have a gap under them? if they were flush with that plenum "floor" there would be nowhere to trap debris and be just as smooth. Is there a function for that gap that I am unaware of?
For paint, Cerakote Glacier Black would be pretty nice. It's hydrophobic and easy to clean. Then just sandpaper the lettering. Another option would be to vapor blast the whole thing and clearcoat it with Cerakote MC-5100. That stuff is extremely hydrophobic. -- What an amazing time to be into cars. We can literally just print things. I suppose I can have that BMW M88 I've always wanted.
Wow! How does this channel only have 6k subscribers? This is such high quality content. Discovered it by accident but subscribed immediately. Love to see it.
Well I'm certainly envious! Great work, the parts looks wonderful and it's quite the interesting project. A rotary in an i8? Interesting. I designed a manifold for my 12AT a year or so ago and have just been waiting until I can afford to get it printed in a similar fashion. Definitely look forward to a decade or two down the line when this tech gets a bit cheaper. It's hilarious how similar the design is too, granted I guess there isn't too much to deviate on the rotary platform. Sorta fun to almost see "my" concept come to fruition through a different lens. I have the same issue of no center-iron injectors because it's a 12A so when I said it's a similar design I really meant it, it's almost uncanny with a few differences up top with the plenum. Currently I run the factory Nikki carb intake with a printed CF-PA "injector adapter" that holds the throttle and injectors and everything. The injectors are way too far away from the engine for decent drivability but it does work and makes good power. You sort of have to make do on a uni-student budget so it is what it is. DBW also helps keep things a little more tidy since it saves the need for an IACV (which it used to have) but a proper custom manifold is definitely the goal. Anywho, pardon nerding out a little, it's just so cool to see basically the same thing I've been wanting to do for approaching two years now. Absolutely love it, great work! Edit; just got to the fuel rail bit and I did the exact same thing! 3D printing jigs has been a massive aid in working on custom automotive stuff. I made drill jigs for moving the oil gallery connections for the oil pump outlet and front bearing feed (both to the front iron) as well! Minor stuff I know but I'm just nerding out, apologies. Cheers!
I used to have a friend who worked in a marine diesel engine shop. They had a massive belt sander (a "belt resurfacer") that they used to surface things, including marine diesel heads (which are usually one cylinder per head). I had them flatten many a header flange for me. That has a machined flat surface that the belt runs on and a high quality belt, but I imagine any decent belt sander is good for an exhaust manifold.
I am very much interested in the thermal pressure and abuse this is going to see. Starting and ending measurments for the race season, i want to know how much it tweaks under abuse. Those welds on the heat exchanger have a tough job ahead of them. I would keep it at 18 lbs of boost briefly. 24 lbs put on your balistic saftey glasses, P= (2*T*S/D) for your weld should help. Ironically you have a license plate behind you that says bad idea.
@@CouchBuilt was looking for the weld strength, not the base metal strength. I'm digging through my college notes their is a different equation for weld strength under bost/heat.
@@invasivecoyote1361 Absolute weld strength isn't even worth consideration here. Most motorsports component weld failures under pressure are due to flex of the joined material over the weld joint itself. There's a reason you don't see any large flat surfaces, and the closest thing to a flat surface has convenient stiffening ribs as part of the logo. If temperatures in the intake are enough to alter the strength properties, the car is on fire.
@CouchBuilt I'm not banging on your door. Sorry if I came off that way. I very much appreciate your artwork. I'm just a fellow car hobbist such as yourself, and I have dabbled in making mainfolds, both intake and exhaust. Simply pointing out my past failures and experiences. I built an intake similar to yours except a BBC 454, and it blew a nice chunk out at the lake doing more than I should have asked of it.
@invasivecoyote1361 nothing taken offensively, just pointing out some details that others might be interested in response to your comments. Using sheetmetal for intakes puts significantly more stresses on welds. This is why you’ll often find vertical supports welded in large inline layout motor plenums to prevent flex, which would manifest as a blown weld.
I'm not sure about metal 3D printing but I do all the FDM printing at my work and you get a much more accurate finished product when you export and slice the model as a .st(e)p vs a .stl. I'm using Inventor and Prusaslicer. The end of this is what I'm talking about. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R0NSlRWHLHQ.html
That's not bad for a one off completely custom unit. Sheet metal custom IM are similarly priced and you don't have nearly as many weld points. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
First of all mad respect for the time you spend thinking, 3D modeling etc. This is the real shit, this is a real build not bought car when finished. You earned yourself a new subscriber. At the and of the video you let us give you ideas About any Color for the intake manifold. You said powder coating but Maybe cerakoting it would maybe be the beter option. Here me out why, cerakote is excellent in keeping heat in the material itself prevending ir heat for example: turbo manifold, exhaust etc. But cerakote is not only excellent in keeping heat in the material itself but also heat protection, for example the ir heat created by the exhaust manifold, since its good in keeping heat inside the material itself also means it needs a lot of ir heat to pentrate the cerakote layer and start heating up the aluminium itself and thus automatecly heating up the air inside the manifold itself and hotter air means less oxygen less oxygen less fuel less fuel less bang less bang less hp. not saying That powder coating is a bad idea, but cerakote c series is aircuring instead of oven curing like poweder. And c series had the same strength as oven curing cerakote. And since all parts are already sandblasted what cerakote needs to bond maybe a thing to consider. Why you think, because the ir heat protection since the exhaust manifold and intake manifold are close to each other. Maybe considering cerakoting the exhaust manifold as of the part about keeping the heat inside the material, Sorry for my maybe sometimes wrong writen words Greetings from the Netherlands🚗💨
one of the COOLEST segments ive seen in a while! holy moly you are a talented fabricator, great engineering and you truly seem to have some intelligence. PLEASE MAKE MORE CONTENT! FULL SUPPORT
With modern tech, literally anyone can get any part reproduced or even improved as long as they are willing to put some reverse engineering and design work. With some solid effort, you could even recreate a carburetor that hasn't been manufactured in over a century. It's super awesome! You can even make the prototypes at home with a basic 3D printer, iterate to your heart's content, and then have it made out of any material you can think of with a simple online ordering service.
@@CouchBuilt if you get a chance, and you have some spare 3D printed aluminum, you should give a piece to the guy that did it and see what results you'll get The reason I'm suggesting it is because you mentioned that oil and dirt sticks to the finish of the parts you got printed With Vapor Honing, if you use very fine glass bead, it gives it a super nice shine and you don't get the oil and grease prints anymore
@@CouchBuilt I was trying to find the video but I saw it years ago. It was a motorcycle shop that did VH as part of it's repairs, and this guy had a part he had done and left it on the front counter. He said it had been there for like 5 years, and it looked like he just took it out of the tank, even thought customers came in and played around with it every day May be something to consider
This build is really turning out super sick. Never realized how accessible 3d printed metal parts were, definitely want to find a way to implement that in a future project myself. Thanks for posting and showing the process!
That throttle body looks like it belongs on a 1.8 four-cylinder engine… or is it just the camera making it look small? 🤔 Hhhmmm you did say 68mm. Why so small?
I’ve found that when exporting meshes from some cad software; the angle from which you’re viewing the part at the time you export it can effect the resulting mesh
How is the strength of printed aluminium compared to cast or machined billet? In other words, how much do you compensate for what I presume is a lower strength part?
A 13B has different sized primary and secondary ports. If you make the runner too large, you will lose intake velocity and negatively impact low engine speed performance.
Given that flatness and smoothness are not at all the same thing, are you pretty confident that the belt sander did a decent enough job creating a smooth surface on your mating surfaces that you wont have problems getting it to seal?
Couldve sent the manifold to a machine shop and ask them to deck it I dont get why people do the water entry and exit on the same side, just let it cross flow you want to take heat out. When you reverse the flow you just tranferring heat into metal
As someone who has been designing and developing his own 13B inlet manifold for the last year or so, this couldn't have come at a better time! While I was alreadly looking into getting some more intricate pieces printed and then weld everything to CNC machined flanges, the idea of printing the entire thing didn't seem in the realm of possibilities until now. Thanks for showing this, and keep up the good work!
I never saw anyone addressing 45 degree seal for the Bosch pressure+temp sensor, I have couple of those installed with copper washer under the sensor and it seals this way. Can you share any sources that describe correct installation procedure?
Check out the technical drawing. I’m sure a copper crush washer works fine as well. www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Offer%20Drawing_261221899_Pressure_Sensor_Combined_PST-F_2_350_bar.pdf
The smooth tip and the one with the groove both use the same seat machining from any of the drawings I’ve seen. There are hundreds of Bosch sensors so I try to limit my use to the ones that have documentation available.
