Good job.👏🏻👏🏻 How I've seen other people do it in apartments is instead of running a light on the ceiling they'll install a sconce a few feet above the light switch. Super simple and fast.
the only thing i noticed was a N.E.C code where your new outlet box was held in with drywall screws. the NEC says you cant do the as drywall screws as they are not rated for electrical use and plus the box is no longer UL rated as you can only use the holes that come with the box. other than that you have to use 15 amp 14 gauge wire on 15amp if it is already existing circuit. i love your vids and content but keep up the work. :)
I'm not sure if screwing a plastic box to a stud that way introduces ungrounded metal. If the hole is that much bigger than the box, an old-work box wouldn't be very sturdy. One trick is to flood the wall cavity with spray foam. Or you could cut a big hole and do another nail-on box.
Thank you for the comment and watching :) However, its fine to use 12/2 on a 15 amp breaker, per article 210 in the NEC. 14 gauge is the minimum that can be used. I would like some more info on your comment about using drywall screws for mounting boxes. But pretty sure I followed the wording in NEC article 314.23 (B) (1).
@@ApartmentMaintenanceProwhen I was doing new construction wiring, we used drywall screws all the time, but we understood it was a violation. I personally don't see why you can't, I know it's ungrounded but it's going through plastic and into wood so I don't see the issue. You're right with the wire size. You can mix wire sizes on a single circuit as long as the breaker is sized to the smallest conductor.
Cut the fixture hole and one just thru the wall rock about 4x4 aligned at the vertical stud near the top plate, likely wires there CAREFULL. One trick of the trade use an 90 drill with a short butterfly bit (Type with a small hole in it...used to pull a wire or string back with the bit.) Drill the first joist from the new light fixture hole. THEN add to bit an extension and drill the next joist and so on. Works ok but can loose bit if not tight! When thru to above the wall WITH a pre drilled vertical hole at the top plate 1"+ will allow to add a wire or string in the butterfly bit hole...fish away back to the fixture. For the vertical wire pull drop a large washer or nut with string attached down the wall. Use a strong magnet if needed THEN from one of the wire holes in the box. PREFERRED a new empty hole. USE a bent coat hanger to fish out the string...cut and leave the washer in the wall and use the string to PULL DOWN (always ezier to pull down) the new wire into the box. Another hint is to cut back the wire insulation and 2 of the 3 wires...small loop wire & tie string tight wrap with minimal electrical tape....pull down into the box.... DONE with only ONE exposed hole in the smooth and ez to patch wall....GOOD LUCK!!! ONLY a commentary to consider not electrical advice. ps. Have you seen the newer saddle type plastic box?? It sets recessed sheetrock thick across a 2x and screws to it. Kida neat.
I definitely prefer a Texas patch to a California patch. It's sturdier, and it's faster because you can reuse your old drywall. Use plywood backing because solid wood can split. A big hole and a small hole take about the same amount of time to repair.
Hey bro, I'm glad to see your reels! I really like it. We are a CN lighting manufacturer with spot goods in our Thailand and US warehouses. If you wanna selling recessed nights or any lighting products you maybe interest to put on your shelves, welcome to contact me! I think we could have a nice collaboration ;)
