Hi, thank you for your very interesting beautiful videos. I ask you where can I find the wheel you use to sand balsa, I don't have one like this in my dremel. Could you give me a link from which to buy similar accessories? Thank you
I am glad you like my Videos . The Dremel Accessory is the Quick Snap you can find here : us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ez404-01-ez-lock-starter-kit . Hope that will help !? Happy modelling , John
I personally use the electric Plank Bender , but sometimes it works too when I only soak the Plank in hot Water and nail it to the Frames. The Plank Bender Pliers work fine too, even I've never used them .
I find the hardest part of any of these builds is the hull planking. I was really looking forward to seeing how you approach this and any hints and tricks you may have. I was disappointed that you covered this with fractured images.
Hello cliffedward , this is only the FIRST Layer of Planks and the Purpose of it is to SHAPE the Hull nothing else. So in general it doesn't matter how you install the Planks , as long as they lay flat on the Rips . And I think the Timelapse was a good Idea to transmit the Way of doing it. Nevertheless , I will take your Comment and maybe do a " How to do " Video of planking a Hull. Thank you, John
Well, most of the Time Nails are provided in the Kits ( regardless the brand or Type ) , if there are no Nails provided or if you are ONLY looking for Nails , the Nails are commonly 10mm long with 1mm Diameter ! Some are shorter or longer as well as thicker or thinner . If you are looking for Nails only , try to check Nails for Dollhouses , which maybe available in Craft or Hobby Stores
According to the Anatomy of Ships BOUNTY, the cutwater was planked athwartship from where parts 17-22 meet 16 to the underside of part 40. While Fig 11 of the instructions sort of reflects this , it was a straight line from Port to Starboard so some extra fairing of parts 16, 19 and 20 is required.. This is the general arrangement for most British ships . It would certainly make the planking simple at the stern too.
Well, this is the FIRST Layer of Planks and in general it doesn't matter in what Way or Direction you put on those Planks . The only important Thing and the also the only Purpose of this Step is the get the Shape of the Hull for the final Layer of Planks. So basically you could fill the Gaps between the Rips with Styrofoam or PU Foam , shape it and put on the second Layer of Planks . I hope that helps to understand why I work like this.
I haven't built a wooden ship model yet, so maybe this question would be answered if I had, but why do you (and other you tubers building wooden ship models) remove all of the nails? It seems like the presence of nails isn't historically inaccurate, it looks fine to my untrained eye, and this layer is going to be planked over anyway? Am I missing something? As always, your work is stunning and I'm looking forward to watching the rest of the videos in this series.
Well Nicholas , the Explanation is very simple , we have to remove the Nails from the first Layer of Planks because when we sand it, we never get it flush . ( Brass ) Nails are harder then the Wood Planks so by every Stroke we make with the Sanding Block we remove more Wood then Nail and the Result is a bumpy Surface. If you have glued the Planks correctly there is not need of Nails after the Glue has cured. And one more Tip : shape the first Layer the best you can and you will have almost no Problem by gluing on the second Layer .
Thanks for making these, i have a fair amount of modeling experience and this kit is very hard to follow given the issues and translation. My question - before you began to plank the hull did you file the frames to create more surface area along the curvature? Thanks
