Amazon cheap greenhouse mods to prevent collapse 

I've switched to wire as the strings break after a while.

That's a good idea. I have been meaning to build a wooden door for the main door. In my head, it just never occured to me to put the cover on "backwards" and to leave the existing zippered front door as the back door.

Thank you

Not really my intent. Hopefully it works out well for you.

Wise to make your own. Fools pay for chit. No thanks. I customize Everything I need. Wise

Interesting! Where do the instructions have you run it, right down the center down the length of the greenhouse?

Yes, mine in still standing. The screen windows are falling apart between the UV and the chickens and the zipper is going bad. Going to take the skin off in a month or so because I don't want to bake my plants in the summer and so I can get another year out of it. The tent stakes that came with the greenhouse are a joke. I think my fence posts are doing more for me than the rebar stakes and if I did only one, I would go with the posts. Filling the pipes would help prevent them from crushing/collapsing and thus being easier to bend - maybe rigid spray foam? But now you are adding more expense. At some point it's cheaper to buy the more expensive units than to keep throwing money at a cheap one trying to make it more durable. The rope over the middle is a trick the BIG greenhouse users use to good effect so I am using it too. If you have the foam, use it, but cord is cheaper than the foam, will last longer, and is reusable around the garden if I change my mind later. Cord also will help hold the greenhouse DOWN if well staked. They are both trying to do the same thing, get the skin tight against the frame so it doesn't flap in the wind. Double skinning is used in thermal greenhouses way up north. You also can run shade cloth over the greenhouse either inside or outside the existing skin. All good thoughts!

Also, check back tomorrow. You inspired me to shoot a quick 8 month review video.

Did you see the followup video I made? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wLe1cZ20iZQ.html

@@MikeCreuzer I did watch it and loved it. I linked your instructions to my Amazon review.

Glad you liked it!

I am putting up a second one and am recording that. I expect another video of more of the assembly in a few weeks.

Good ideas. There are multiple ways to solve for the cost cutting measures on these units which is good as it allows people to fix them within their skill sets and readily accessible materials.

Reading the reviews, a lot of these are pulled down by snow. This 26 footer is about twice as long as it ought to be for the frame strength. If snow is a concern, I would put temporary legs up under each hoop when a lot of snow is expected.

They collapse

Frame is made of tin or aluminum pipe it will collapse

We added posts under each connection point in the center and it still collapsed under heavy 12" snow. U have to go out n "hit" the snow off after every few inches to really keep the snow off it. We are going to have to bend the frame back up and reinforce w a wooden structure to hold up as some of the pipes snapped. We did the rope trick, that did help with rain though. We also purchased anchors and wire kit to go over the top outside of the tunnel and it worked very well. Only problem was the snow. Upstate NY. But on the plus side I grew cold hardy crop until almost late Nov. in this last year. I would definitely recommend bracing this structure inside if you're anywhere that gets snow.

Maybe have a support leg you prop the center up when you are expecting a lot of snow.

@@MikeCreuzer It would probably take more than one....we had a carport style greenhouse two years ago...caved in with only 2 inches of snow...now it's metal was thicker, but the roof was pitched flat sides, so I'm hoping the arch helps. I'm thinking I may just add a piece of conduit running the length of the top as a ridge pole, then each arch gets a piece running from the outside foot to the peak.

you'll definitely want to take the cover off in the fall, if the frame holds up until then; the 2 i bought lasted one month and 4 months respectively, the one that survived was sheltered by most of the wind, but was ultimately destroyed 2 weeks before i was done with it.

I doubt I can do anything about that one...

Yep. I've bought a 2nd one to go next to the first. I've switched from string to fencing wire.

My mesh is shot as well. Of course the chickens poking at it didn't help any.

I found that after a year or more the condensation under the cover will rot natural string fibers. The UV will eat up the thinner synthetic cords. My 2nd greenhouse I ran fencing wire to see if this will last longer. Not all that much more work. Not any more expensive when we get wire by the quarter mile.

I did add a couple of off-cut slabs from the sawmill a few days after recording the last video. No black locust on my property that I have found yet - looking at the old fence posts, I think it was all found and cut and used for fencing.

It's smallish. 1 foot by 2 foot by 4 feet or so? Not overly heavy either.

@@MikeCreuzer Thanks for replying back.

@@chv72 I guess I failed to answer the question with a "yes, I expect it should fit "

That sounds about right.

The plastic, not so much. The screens? Destroyed the screens!

I expect that some holes would work well. Probably a few in each section in case a leaf or something fell into the dip and plugged up the hole and allowed water to start to pool. The weight of pooling water is one of the things that rips these cheap frames down.

@@MikeCreuzer do you think the hole would rip? I am definitely going to do the string weave, so not much weight in should gather.

@@susanhauntedtruestories7476 It would be a risk. The 'green' in the cover plastic is reinforcing threads. If you poke your holes between the green threads, you would reduce the risk. A sharp skewer where you stretch the plastic as you make the hole rather than a knife where you cut it would help reduce the chance of ripping. Also a hot nail where you melt the hole could work as well. Try a couple of ways, see which you like the best before you do all the holes the preferred way. Also some UV resistant tape could help. 3M makes a clearish duct tape 3M Scotch Extreme, or somesuch name. The sun doesn't eat it up like other duct tapes.

@@MikeCreuzer great advice. Hot nail and tape. I plan to remove the cover from about middle of June until late September. Hopefully that's something I can do. I have a 10' by 26'.

No. Well, some cordage comes to stake out the tunnel like a tent, I used those to go over the top, but it's not enough.

North East Kentucky. It saw 40mph winds it's first week or so www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KKYISONV1/graph/2020-11-15/2020-11-15/daily That wind pending was what made me use rebar to pin it to the ground and run the cordage over the top the day before that weather front came through.

@@MikeCreuzer good arrangement - Thanks for info. I will try the same.

Eastern Kentucky.

That's why I got two! Mine has been up 8 months and hasn't collapsed yet.