Thank you for doing this. It’s nice to see what is actually inside those filters. After seeing this and considering that I do regular 3000 mile oil changes I think I will continue using the factory motorcraft filters. My Town Car and my F150 take the same filter and that makes it easier to stock up on them and have them when I need them.
It'd be the best thing you could do for it! I preach 3k oil changes with full syn and this guy 86% agrees! Made up percentage but Ill bet he'll love the comment....
I have an 04 lincoln town car and I noticed that the Motorcraft fl 820 oil filter does not do a good job keeping the oil in! the drain back valve appears to be not very good because after the engine has been off for about half hour or less when I start it up again the lifters are rattling really loud for about 3 seconds! with a good oil filter there should be no valve noise coming from the engine at all! Do you experience the same with your lincoln? please let me know, thank you!
@markchimmy Depends alot on engine age /wear also. If says use 5w20 ..you can try 5w30 (as long as engine older) to quiet lifter noise that's common w/older high mileage engines. Again, if over 100k mis DEFINITELY use@ least "high mileage" synthetic blend oil. They help older engines alot! If u've always used a full synthetic then use "higher mileage" full synthetic. Motorcraft filters are fine! Don't go over 5k mis tho. -NY
All I can say is my 2008 Ford Focus has always used the Motorcraft standard filter and the Motorcraft 5w 20 synthetic blend motorcraft oil and now it just turned 407 thousand miles all stock. I typically change the oil around 7500 miles. I got it since brand new. I really enjoy all the no-nonsense videos you put out. THANKS A LOT.
Can't beat Ford vehicles i always say! Good basic maintenance all it takes. Motorcraft filters w/good *full synthetic oil* is an outstanding combo. Def hope your next vehicle is a new Ford! '22 Edge ST AWD in my driveway. 2nd Edge. Great SUVs 👍🏻. -NY
@mikeprice8307 I've heard that alot. Good basic maintenance (consistently) will get you very high mileage in any Ford ..esp trucks! Sensible driving habits help too. Goes for any vehicles. '22 Edge ST AWD in driveway. My previous '13 Edge AWD was outstanding. Buy new, take great care of vehicle & keep it 10yrs+.
There are Ford vehicles/engines that are horrible. Same is true for every auto maker: some engines are great, while others are/were not. I still own my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 I bought new, with the 2.7 liter 3RZ-FE engine & automatic transmission. Never gave me any trouble whatsoever, until I finally blew a head gasket at 374,000 miles........and I was hard on this little truck. Over 75% of those miles was towing, sometimes towing right at ( and occasionally over ) the maximum towing limit. I also did a good bit of serious off-roading. All of the bearings ( mains, rods, thrust ) and crank & rod journals were still in great shape, using only conventional 10w30 Castrol oil the entire time. So this was way more abuse than any car would experience. I changed the oil every 5,000 miles. I went ahead & had the entire engine totally rebuilt with a new genuine Toyota cylinder head, and am now running only Amsoil 10w30 full synthetic. I personally know 2 different people with the same truck who presently have over 500,000 miles on all original engine & drivetrain. But they weren't as abusive as I was with mine. @@Davido50
I also had a 08 focus I bought new and sold it after 10 years and 160k. No issues except a cv axle, wheel bearing, door lock, and throttle body. Never changed rear brakes either. Solid vehicle. Now I have a lincoln suv thats nice but way less reliable.
Ford Racing filter is designed for high flow and high burst pressure. The large inlet holes and taller filter media with more pleats is there for high flow. The thicker case, heavier base plate and superior glue bonding of pleats to end caps are made for high burst pressure and to keep media from coming loose under high flow and pressure. The thicker base plate allows for stronger connection to the case. Of course it filters well also.
I own both Ford’s that use the 820 and Chevy’s with an LS that I wish I could put the 820 on. Read Fords tech on why they designed the relief system at the inlet of the filter. It will make sense when you look at the MMO engine flush. You want to keep as much debris in the filter instead of flushing it out into the engine when/if the relief valve has to open. Ford’s idea is that the oil bypass being at the top will bypass oil flow to the shortest route and not over the filter material. Whatever is in the bottom of the filter, and loose in the pleats with the aid of gravity and flow can be pushed out into the engine when the valve is at the end of the filter. More likely, what’s in the filter is more likely to stay in the filter in bypass the way Ford designed it. It’s a valid observation especially on a filter system where the filter isn’t on it’s side but vertical like we all wish they were. As an engineer, it makes more sense to me at least. Don’t know about you but I have a lifetime supply and stored so they won’t get rusty!! 😁 AsI replied to another post, I have cut both the filters from the dealer and Walmart open, and didn’t see any difference. Watch the price at Walmart double as they have been way to cheap and alert, my Walmart’s don’t have many left last I checked.
Rich.... That was awesome. So right on with your thinking. Great great demonstration , really like to see the inter- workings of a filter.. Thank you for doing this for us.
Great video!!! Thanks once again for taking the time to cut the filters open and showing us the differences. I totally agree with you. I have a 2008 mustang bullitt with 177,546 miles and i change the oil (full synthetic) and use the Motorcraft oil filter since I bought the car 11 years and never had an issue. Upgraded to Ford racing cams and everything inside the engine looked brand new!!
Dang, first of all; thank you for spending $40 odd bucks to destroy oil filters to see what's inside of 'em! Second of all; I think manufacturers should show a break down image, displaying the anatomy of their filter, on the back of the box or something. Third; OEM seems to be the best, and the safest because it's made to spec right out the door, not saying the premium filters are bad, but for a daily driver I'd be confident in OEM.
I have always used OEM filters for daily driving. However, I have a couple Ford Racing that I purchased to try. I might use one of them on the Mustang or Marauder if I take it to the track for some hard driving. If the USA border ever opens up for vehicle crossing, I am planning on taking a long road trip with the Town Car. So am trying to decide on filter to use with Royal Purple synthetic oil for longer than my standard 5k km oil change. Back in '97 on a long road trip to Alaska with the old Dodge pickup I had an oil change done at one of those quick change places. Never again! When I got home and tried to change the oil I had a heck of a time getting the plug out. Finally broke it free with a breaker bar and foot against a wheel for solid leverage. Almost a full three threads off the pan came out on the plug!!!!!!! Idiots can torque an oil plug like that, and yet I hear of wheels coming loose because they forgot to torque the lug nuts???? On my winter car I change between winter tires and summer tires each on their own rims, and have never had a lug nut back off because I torque them carefully to 100ft/lbs. I have also never had an oil drain plug back out on any of my vehicles, tractors or equipment and I just make sure they are torqued snugly by hand without using any torque wrench.
Sometimes OEM cut back on quality like some Nonda OEM filters ...being made by the makers of Fram using the orange can level🤔 dont beleive me....look it up here on youtube 😆
My own personal use, I run Mobile 1 20k motor oil full synthetic 5w-30 high mileage, and the same brand and style filter. I also add a can of BG MOA to each oil change at 6000 miles. I have an Acura CL type s. I did notice the oil leak I had seemed to go away. I absolutely love your review. I'm a big fan of Mobil 1 myself, but that's just me. Keep up the good channel!
I actually really like this type of content. It’s really hard to judge the quality of this type of product without knowing what’s inside. Sad that it’s considered cringeworthy.
It’s always a compromise, like with air filters. The better it filters, the sooner it becomes restrictive and needs changing. The less it filters the more it flows and the longer it will last between changes, but at the cost of not filtering as well. None will allow particles larger than bearing clearances to pass, unless they are neglected and bypass.
I totally agree with your analysis, your video is extremely well done, thank you so much for posting it. I have three of the FL820S oil filters on my truck. One for the oil, transmission, and one for the power steering, they work really well.
The biggest advantage of the Ford silicone anti-drainback valve is the ability to retain a better seal when engine is off and sitting in very cold conditions and not allowing oil to drain out. The Ford racing filter is designed for higher volume sustained filtration under racing conditions and I suspect the blue gasket is teflon or some type of higher temperature resistance material to retain a better seal under higher heat conditions.
@@jamesg8246 Over 100k beat miles since 27k better than your beater..... Mercedes I'd say by the smart ass comment 🤣 I work on em you buy them.... oh wait even worse a auto Scooby-Doo
Apparently the media is known to tear in these filters around 2000 miles. It probably won’t hurt anything but I’d rather pay and extra $3 and get a Wix XP
@@AeroVortex92 Same here best to change early but some of the Scooby drivers love to spin bearings and blow headgaskets.... then trade em in.... @James G.... smh
@@jamesg8246 You and everyone else has wasted money on an oil report yet sold a car. I don't sell a vehicle until I can't fix it... sounds like you are like everyone else wanting a newer less reliable car because yours worn out or "the family got bigger" keep it an put the cash your mouth is talkin about and buy it. Or just don't comment at all.... maybe make a video?
Looks like the Amsoil and the Ford Racing filters were more difficult to cut open and the factory one was really easy!! Another great comparison video!!! Thank you!!
I do my own oil changes at three thousand miles, so I use Ford filters for my 3.5 F150 Ecoboost. I buy them at my Ford dealer and they give me a good price, because I buy a flat of filters at a time.
🙌 the first honest real comment. This channel an my self see the horrifying things that can happen with the 100% oil life reset on Fords! I bet if you drive it everyday change it at 3k you have 60% or more oil life left....
I agree with the 3k oil change. I tend to keep my cars and have had several cars go way over 200k with no motor issues And that’s GM, BMW, Toyota and Ford cars. 4, 6, and 8 cylinders. My BMW had well over 300k the car just started falling apart but the motor still ran fine.
👍🏻😎I've been using Motorcraft filters in all of my Fords since 1990. Never a single issue in all of that time with them. I know that there's people who hate them for whatever reason. I love the price and the design over other brands. Particularly the top mounted bypass valve and the silicone anti drain back valve, which is unheard of at it's price point. I wish I could afford the Racing filter. I'd love to give that a try sometime
Great video... Always look inside the new filter for bugs, metal shavings, or any other debris. Once a big dead beetle was in an oil filter that I looked at.... I'm sure it could have clogged a tiny oil passageway in my engine.
I would go with the factory filter as well. I don’t think that a thicker body will keep anything from puncturing it better than the others. Oil pressure won’t blow out the thinner ones either. Good video.
Can’t go wrong with Motorcraft filters. I used them for many miles on two old Lima engine Rangers with OTS synthetic oil. These days I use Amsoil extended filters with Signature series oil, though. Guess I’ve turned into more of an oil snob 😆.
I always find oil filter comparison and dissection videos interesting. For me personally, I will never leave an oil filter on like the Amsoil filter as long as they say you can. I’d have to be in a freaking coma. 3,000 miles and the oil and filter is dumped! Thanks for sharing and thanks for sacrificing the new filters! Great video!
Great comparison of oil filters. I'm trying out the Amsoil 25,000 MI oil filter. I'm at 15,000. So far so good. I'm going to go the full 25,000 for kicks. I'm using Amsoil XL 1040 and I just put in 8 to 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil. The oil looks fairly clear on the dipstick at this point
YEH especially compared to the ACDelco / Mopar filters. Just go to the auto store and look at them;you'll see what I mean.!! I would NOT USE an AC Delco filter if I WERE TO get a GM car.. I went with BOSS FITLER/PUP oil when switched to full Syn oil on my ecoboost '16 stang.; now 46,000mi+
Would've loved to see K&N against the others. I run Amsoil and Amsoil filter in my 2014 Shelby GT500 but getting ready to change the oil tomorrow and going to run The Ford Performance oil filter. Super cool video. I've been using Amsoil products for over a decade. Very high quality stuff
1. Video an microphone quality are on point. Video is soooooo good an I can almost hear the size of the room. 2. Maybe wix or some others have a troll filter for this topic.🥸
Absolutely ate this video up, watched it 3x. Thanks @FordBossMe !! 👏👏👊👊 And I agree with all your comments!! PS These 3 put the Fr filter (that I took apart, and discovered a flimsy cardboard frame for the filter element, verified by the 2 RU-vid vids on filters like you did) - at the bottom for quality and construction, just my opinion. THANK YOU AGAIN!! 👏👏👊👊☝☝
Also I don't know how Ford is, but I know some manufacturers, if you are under warranty and not use their filters and something catastrophic happens, the warranty won't cover it. So I agree with you about sticking to OEM filters no matter what brand.
A nice comparison and you hit all the points that I would. Nice to know that the Ford racing filter has a bit more filtration, most racing filters have less, hence better flow, but seems that Ford went to great lengths on the racing filter by having more pleats to offset the higher filtration rate and they still got the better flow they wanted. I'm with you, I buy the standard filter for Ford vehicles, getting the FL-820-S and a couple FL400-S...........can't beat the Ford quality for the money, no need wasting time and money trying to..........
I have a 2006 Ford F150. Bought it in 2013 with 97k miles on it. Now has 192k miles and I have been using the Motorcraft Synthetic 5w 20 oil and Motorcraft oil filter. I was thinking of changing to Full Synthetic oil and maybe a different filter, but after watching this video, I am sticking to what I've been using. Thanks.
This is really cool to see. I sell Amsoil on the side, but I’ve always disliked it when people won’t watch opposition to their stuff. Its not honest. The way that you do this and lay this out is really informative. Thanks .
The amsoil stuff is nice but they have filters just as good if not better now The Fram titanium - Full synthetic or Fram Ultra - Full synthetic with cellulose backing Puralator Boss Full Synthetic - Full synthetic Internals and a hell of a filter 1/2 the price of a Amsoil Filter same quality and rated for the same miles almost
Probably literally billions of miles on the Motorcraft 820S filters on primarily 4.6L engines (one of Fords best) used in the Panther platforms, Explorers, Expeditions, F150s, and Mustangs and maybe others... FOR DECADES. It's a really good filter for the current $4 price and reasonable oil change intervals. Use with confidence.
I remember seeing the motorcraft filter (years ago) was rated at 5 microns. But the test is using 20 micron size. Hardest info to find is the micron filter size for filters, strange.
Its nice to get a video with Amsoil in it, without having an Amsoil salesman in it. Ive used the Ford racing filters for years, they have all the factory perks plus more obviously. Better burst rate and longer oci if wanted (I have averaged 5-8500 miles for years). Only downside is cost, unless you buy in bulk. On most videos/internet posts it seems the only ones talking about amsoil products are amsoil salesmen, so dilutes trust in products. All seem to be great filters though. Thanks for cutting these open.
I went from Motorcraft to Amsoil oil filters and one thought I had, was that maybe they filter so good, it’s actually choking the oil flow. Especially since I went from 5,000 miles with auto store on sale full synthetic oil, to 10,000 miles with Amsoil signature series oil. The first time I changed to Amsoil, I sent the used Amsoil oil to a lab and they said I could’ve gone to at least 13,000 miles. But to play it safe and considering that as an engine wears, oil gets dirtier faster, I’ll stick with 10,000 miles.
I can confirm the anti-drainback valve on Motorcraft filters works great. The 910S fits Yamaha outboards perfectly & since the filter is mounted upside down, a good anti-drainback is critical. The oil light on my Yami 150 goes out immediately even after sitting for quite some time. I've also run Motorcraft on everything else without fail for years. Best value out there but curiously even the FPP doesn't have a coil support spring like a Wix. Just out of curiosity, are higher-end cars like the GT350, GT500 & the Ford GT equipped with the FPP filter standard from the factory? They should be for the price 🤔
My 08 Fusion uses the 820S filter. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. I change the air filter every 10,000 miles. Oh and my fusion uses 6 qts. I have 87,000 miles on it and I'm the 2nd owner (she was 92 when she sold it to me). 225 H.P. and a 6 speed auto tranny. One of the best cars I've ever owned. I don't know how fast it'll go,,,, but faster than I want to drive. Thanks for the video!
Isn't that a relief, every time I hear stupid loud music as a filler and to somehow make it into a wiz bang video or so they think and can hardly hear the voice audio, it turns me off. If I was looking for music for pleasure I would be doing that vs looking for informational video's which I am doing at this moment.
Cool content. However, I will stick to using strictly Amsoil synthetic oil and Amsoil filters exclusively as quality is remembered long after price is forgot. My power sports engines and wet clutches approve!🇺🇸
The Fl-820s is made by Purolator and is known for tearing of the media and cuts on the Anti-drainback valve. Independent tests show FL820s at 93-94% @ 20um. While the FL500s is only 80%@20um. The FL820 Ford racing filter is 99%@20 microns according to an old spec sheet Ive seen. The Amsoil is a solid filter with the wire backed synthetic media.
I'd like to see more comparisons like this to a few other filter choices to see what you think about that and maybe some other parts you give a really good detailed description of why in your opinion which is best and explain why
Filter comparisons are interesting, but they all get discarded between 3 & 5 thousand miles, depending on your maintenance. I must have done 100 oil changes in the last 55 years and used every filter under the sun, Puro-, Wix, Motorcraft, AC Delco, Fram, NAPA,... I use mid - grade or better, and never had a filter failure or an oiling related engine problem. Thanks for the video.
I would assume the baseplate on the Ford Racing filter is much heavier due to the intended application. Racing is a very harsh, abusive environment. Also, racing engines can have much higher oil pressures than street engines. I also vote for the factory filter for average street use with normal service intervals below 10k miles.
I’m looking at some of your older vids; and I’m about to come upon an OCI. I’m using the Motorcraft FL400S on my 4.2, and after watching this vid, I am going to buy another one for my upcoming OCI. THANK YOU! Stay Blessed. My truck is very happy because of you!
I use the factory one on my mustang works just fine because its not driven a lot and I store it for the winter so in my case the factory is perfect for me I don't even put a 1000 miles on it a year but when it comes out of storage I change the oil and filter
The filter media on the Ford Racing filter looks like the same material as Mobil 1 Extended Performance filters. Thanks for giving us a look inside, and for you insight.
It's a bit off to judge by sight alone. More or larger might have less resistance maybe. Amsoil filters are made from a synthetic material and last longer 1 year 15k miles. Those Ferds are more like a 5k 6 month filter. So if you change the oil every 6 mo. get the cheaper ones but if you run 1 year / 10k-15k (using Amsoil of corse) then the best is the Amsol filter.
I'm liking the Amsoil, I change my oil every 5000 miles regardless so even though the media has less surface area I'm still well under the manufactures recommended millage.
Good man!! And that's why you change your oil per or before manufacturer recommend.. You can't beat an OEM filter that is ENGINEERED for your vehicle...
I run the Ford Racing filter in my mustang with Royal Purple. Don't mind paying the extra couple bucks to ensure protection.. Definitely appreciate this video
Also, I believe the Ford racing filter base plate is thicker to reduce distortion to make use of that seal and prevent a blowout in an extreme case scenario. Maybe to have more threads in contact with the filter adapter too.
The best bang for your buck! for my vehicle: “2014 Ford Taurus Limited 3.5 L V6 N/A” 6 quarts 5W-20 Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic that I bought from Tractor Supply and the Motorcraft filter from the dealer. it has gotten my oil change down to like $30. Every 5k miles And occasionally I get the oil for free because of my store credit at tractor supply
As I appreciate many of these filter cutaway comparisons videos there seems to be a lack of emphasizes and importance of the location of the filter bypass that is activated more often than most people know, a direct flow filter bypass that is located on the mount end of the filter is always preferred over one that allows the oil to flow over the dirty filer element and back into the engine such as the AmsOil filter does in this video. It is unfortunate that through the years this importance has diminished with many spin on oil filter manufactures and the choices now seem to be limited. I give much credit to Motocraft for keeping (as much as possible) such design, many engine manufactures switched to element type for this reason to insure the bypass be direct, and many (mostly in the past) called for spin on filters without bypass valves as the valve assembly were installed in the mount itself to insure that direct bypass. These are the type I seek out for all my vehicles including motorcyles and I give credit to S&S cycles for having such design. More attention to this is needed today especially with the lower micron ratings of these filters and with such small size offerings you could bet on that bypass being activated more often than we all would like. Sincerely, Old geerhead, Paul Timpani
Im kind of liking the amsoil out of these three, but im cheap so I would use the motorcraft. Would like to see a K&N teardown, they have the safety wire hole and the hex end for a socket, and are around $12
Isn't it weird how a cartridge filter is way more expensive but is the same thing as a spin on filter minus the casing, pressure relief valve and pretty paint?
I've been using Wix premium or Fram Ultra Synthetic which are both top notch filters and Mobil 1 for years. 265k on my lx470, 212k on my 03 4runner, 115k on my 03 gx470 and 256k on my 08 sequoia. All run like new and dont use a drop of oil in between changes every 4k.
The basic Ford filter bypass valve is directly under the drain back valve. During flow, those nubs on the anti drain back valve prevent it from flattening (opening) all the way and blocking the bypass valve. The "stiffness" of the Ford anti drain back valve isn't to keep it closed. It is to prevent it from fully opening.
The Motorcraft bypass design is built on top so when oil bypasses it does not pick up all the sludge and crap that has settled in the bottom of the filter and pump it through the oiling system. The bottom bypass alone fails the Amsoil filter and solidly puts it in the DO NOT BUY OR USE category.
@@Johnny-jw1iz And you have no clue what you are talking about. The Bottom bypass is avoided by all but the cheapest filters. But hey congrats on showing off that double digit IQ of yours.
