Most cost effective way to anneal. I'll build an Auto/Semi-Auto machine someday just for the fun of it but I'll continue to use this methode for a long time. No frills vid by a down to earth man. Thanks!
Thanks for that Mate. Really appreciate the feedback. I like doing things the easy way. It’s surprising what you can do or make with what you’ve already got.
Im going to use one of my favorite Negan quotes, it's not my #1 which is "I hope yer wearing yer $#!++!n pants" it's my #2. "Easy peasy lemon squeezy!" Thanks for the video.
I honestly see no point to spending thousands on something you can do for cheap with a torch and a few parts from the local hardware store. I think these guys who buy these expensive machines have way to much money and are suckers. It’s like paying someone to feed you and dress you when you can just do it yourself. But hey if they want to buy an a.m.p. it’s their cash.
Quick fast and in a hurry... Just the way I likem when I'm wanting a crash course in something!!! LOL Thanks I've been looking into this but most videos everyone is always trying to sale a machine to do it. That's fine I don't have anything against that but for some one like me just wanting to try and see what kind of difference it'll make I'm not wanting to pay the $250+ until I give it a try... Great video brother just subbed!!!
I’m also not happy about spending big money when I can do stuff with what I’ve already got. That leaves more money for guns and bullets!! Thanks for the support.
Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't quenching the case in water immediately after annealing cause the case to become brittle (harden). I know it does with steel.
No it's non ferrous, however it doesn't do anything besides make you have to dry your brass off again. I clean brass and anneal when it's still holding moisture to remove all moisture, so throwing it in water afterwards is pointless and more work with more steps
After depriving spent brass, I give them all a run in the sonic cleaner. After all the case prep steps, I run them through the dry tumbler for a few hours. After picking all the bits out of the flash-holes and wiping all the dust off them, I give them all one last bath in Shellite to get the last of the dust from the insides. Drain all the Shellite away, then hang them in a laundry bag on the clothes line in the sun and the wind, and you’re away. Hope this helps. Cheers.
It was the only socket I could find in that size. I you’re holding the drill on an angle and only spinning it slowly, so the cartridge shouldn’t fall out.
Don’t know. I’ve never had anything to do with nickel brass. I would imagine the heat would somehow compromise the nickel coating, but that’s just a guess.
Of all the annealing videos I have watched you are the only one to quench your brass after heating. I've always believed the quenching was necessary to fully anneal brass to return it to it's softer, non-work hardened state. Thank you.
Not sure about with brass... but with steel, you want to let it cool slowly to anneal it. Quenching is normally done to harden the steel. Brass may act differently though and perhaps it does not even make a difference.
I am always concerned that "the cheap way" is promoted as being as good as the results one might expect from an annealing machine and the use of some method of determining the actual temperature (Templac paste) achieved. If you don't know the temperature, you're wasting your time (and effort). Whilst I agree that this article ( www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html ) essentially promotes the authors machine, the contents of the article are about the science of the process. Yes, it is a science, and an exacting one at that. Read it, and perhaps do so a second time. Would you use the same amount of flame thrower to prepare a 17 hornet as, say, a 303Br? Unless you know the temperature, your p***ing into the wind. You will learn also that quenching does absolutely nothing to the property of the brass, other than to cool it a bit quicker so that you can handle it comfortably. If you consider that it is a useful exercise, then at least do it properly.
Without the use of tempilaq to determine the length of time in the flame to establish the appropriate temperature required to alleviate stress in the brass, you're just taking a wild guess at whether or not what you're doing is effective in any way, shape or form. The way the case wobble around in that socket creates enough disparity in how it's heated to ensure too much inconsistency in the process; if some of the cases you're doing are being heated sufficiently, others are either being over heated or not heated enough.
Eric Cortina did a test with brass he thought would be useless after 10s of seconds of annealing. To his surprise, the brass did just fine. I would not worry about 1s this or that way then.
I'll run my until it's red hot on the neck and when it creeps down to the shoulder I'm done.. in a well lit room. Probably could get away with a couple less seconds but seems to work for me so far
@@jasonbroom7147 3 years and still the same brass. So it must be working. I shoot once A week year around. Some have 20 firings on them. It's about 5-6 seconds of real MAP gas.
