I am 65 year old skateboarder that has skated 55 years. In 2008 I started using 4 different wheels on my boards that are all the same size. Each is a different brand color and durometer. What I've found is that by constantly moving the wheels to different locations on the 2 truck axles (there are 4 locations) there is an increase of speed and glide. All these years I've been doing this every time I go out and skate. I bring a bag of about 9 different wheels with bearings and a skate tool. For about an hour or two I start changing around the wheels and take a short test run to feel if there is an increase in speed. 9 times out of 10 there usually is and each time I change a wheel the board glides longer farther and faster. I started to get really excited because I think that I found a secret that nobody in the world knows about. It's sort of like trying to figure out a rubix cube. You need alot of faith, patience, perserverance, and not give up for up to 2 hours. Usually around the 2 hour mark you may be lucky enough to experience what I call the jackpot moment. When changing one particular wheel will make a very noticeable difference in the increase of speed. I have found that there is no set formula to where a certain wheel belongs and it varies from board to board. Everyone knows that most people who go to Las Vegas to gamble usually never win big and usually lose alot of money. But what excites me about this wheels thing is that I always 99% of the time hit the jackpot and go home feeling very successful, happy and fulfilled. I don't win money but the satisfaction of making my skateboard roll faster is a feeling beyond words. Over the years I have kept it a closely guarded secret but now that I'm getting older I'm worried that I might die and take this amazing secret to my grave. So I am now willing to share it with the rest of the skating world. I've heard on the internet that a few roller skaters have been switching wheels too but I haven't heard that any skateboarders have. I was just getting bored and frustrated with buying another set after set of wheels that were disappointingly slow. l started to think outside the box and diy ed it. I'm so glad I took a risk because for the past 15 years I've reaped the reward of having faster skateboards. People are skeptical though and they condemn it without even putting it to the test themselves. Oh well, their loss. I'm just waiting for the day when it finally catches on and spreads like wildlife throughout the world. The catch is, it only works with wheels in the 78a to 88A range. Anything harder than that won't work.
I first got orangatang love handles also 65mm and 77a duro. I felt slow and i felt that i might skid anytime. My lack of confidence with the wheels didnt allow me to pump aggressively. But with Surfskate Love's 65mm 78a duro wheels, things became more fun. It was easier to pump! The wheels have good grip and i feel so much in control. Going distances require less effort. Good job Steve and the team! Thanks for making these awesome wheels!
Cheers to the excellent deconstruction of your masterpiece! And cheers to wheel nerdiness helping make the world a better place :) Congrats on making this a reality!! Super looking forward to getting out on these. Christmas is coming early!!
Super excited !! Ordered the 65/78 for my C7 and the 70/78 for my CX and of course.... both sets on the Soulboardiy. Thank you guys, can't wait to share my experience with the world!!
Usually a huge O’tang fan so the bar is high. Very very impressed. The 70mm 78a set was the closest to my usual soft 4pres on my street cruise set up and these are easily as good if not better. Lively with good energy and rebound from pumps, plush and slightly faster on my rough street roads. I’m super impressed so far and wish you guys all the success you deserve. Definitely onto a winner with the “flothane” formula.
I recently got involved with surfskating and I wish I would have ordered a Carver many years ago. Have skateboards and never could Ollie and all that, and was never very satisfying. Completely at home riding a surfskate because I just feel comfortable carving and pumping with all four wheels remaining on the ground. Recently received a Carver Black Tip CX, and Carver had a Black Friday sale on the Triton CX’s, so I ordered the 31 inch with 17 inch wheelbase, oh and it was 50 percent off, so only $85.00 for the Triton. Just ordered Surfskate Love wheels 70mm 78a, and the Jehu bearings. So much fun! Enjoying my new hobby. Thanks for the videos!
Love it! That square chamfered lip and small core is a great combo. Sounds like a great grippy design with some room for sliding. Glad to see it return in some modern urethane, now that zigzags are donezo!
I believe you hit gold with a simplified, research-heavy choice of not only mm x a, but also with the two cool-blue colors. This guy Gavin is fountain of wheel knowledge!
I share first impressions on 70mm 84a on Soulboardiy Meda Revolution 34 (with new Zealous built-in bearings) and 81a on Kahuna Pohaku Wahine 48 (with breaked-in Zealous buit-in bearings, optimal speed), both with Carver CX trucks. Skatepark test with very smooth surface on wave zone and classic asphalt on flat zone. Note that i come from Abec Zigzag Reflex 80a in front and 77a in rear, wheels that i like a lot. Target : skatepark progression, 50% skatepark sessions vs 50% pumptrack (classic asphalt). I had a big hesitation to buy 84a, thinking it could be too slidy, at the end i took 81a and 84a 70mm, to keep the choice to use 81a in rear if 84a were too slidy. I'm not good at slide at all, i research grip and more speed. Zealous built-in bearings insertion asked me a bit more pression in the 84a set than in the 81a, which is a thing i prefer. I don't know if it's an isolate reality or if 84a core has been built a bit more tiny vs older 81a set ? The very good surprise is that 84a on Soulboardiy are not too slidy at all ! The grip is still very present, enough with my pumping technique, so it gave me quickly confidence. The second good point is that 84a are not too noisy on classic asphalt, so they keep much more versatilty that what i was expected. As bearings are new, they don't roll at the best, but even with it, i note a increase of speed and took new lines on the skatepark. So 84a offers exacly what i was looking for : a huge potential for skatepark progression/speed and confidence. When the bearings will be breaked in with those 84a, i know i'll be able to take new lines easily. Do the 84a roll noticibly faster than 81a ? I can't answer to this now, because 81a were mounted with optimal breaked in bearings and rolled faster than with my Zigzag with efficient pumping. I look forward to break more the new bearings on the 84a on Soulboardiy, it'll be a master set up for park and pumptrack, for sure. Very good job Steve and Gavin, 84a are super welcome, for me there are not slidy wheels, stay versatile and that's why i'm gonna love them. Just a first session which appeals much more.
Looking forward to mine showing up from the pre-sale! On a tangent, I'd love to see a video on finding spots for doing long distance skating besides just "hit the street."
Did you take down your other wheel videos? The only other wheel video I see besides your brand is the Shark wheel video. I seem to remember you having at least a couple of other wheel videos??
@@gpc5010 Hi. Have you an advice to place the foot bloquer? Witch model? I feel like i Never know how to place my feet on the Soulboardiy Adam. I dont place my back foot on the tail, seems way to far. Yow Meraki at 19, and CX at 19. I understand easily why the Soulboardiy (Yow Deck, wheelbase to short or not enought concave or place for foot) is so good with yow but not vs carver Deck (your custom 30" seems to be the answer) Can you tell us more about your choice for Slide truck rear to and bushing choices.
Great video👍I ride a Carver with Cx trucks/slime ball 60mm 78a and trying to squeeze out as much speed as possible but seem to get bogg down, I'm gonna use Venice bch snake run as an example since you're familiar with it and that's where my sticking point is. I understand getting the pumping right is a big factor but will a larger harder wheel get me down the snake run with more velocity? Thx 🛹
No, you want to stick with smaller (60-64mm) for park and bowl riding. You'll actually go faster with smaller and harder wheels. Smaller wheels give you quicker acceleration but lower top speed, bigger wheels give you slower acceleration but higher top speed. But since your speed is limited by distance, you want the quicker acceleration of smaller wheels. My suggestion for surfskate park and bowl wheels are Powell Peralta Rat Bones in either 85a or 90a.
Hi, does the weight of the rider make any difference to the wheels or not? 1.80x100kg, I was thinking of taking your 70x78a for my yow, the standard ura 66x78 wheels are not bad but I would like to have more ease in pumping with flats dirty with sand and more peace of mind when I catch that cursed hidden stone ...
Great stuff. This will be my next wheel when the ones I am on wear out a bit! I don't like the color of my current wheels, they are orange. I hate orange! Love the blue of your wheels.
I've spent over $500 on bearings and my take is that it's not really necessary to upgrade, especially on a surfskate. The only reason to upgrade from stock bearings is if you want more speed. In which case, my personal preference is ceramic built-ins, because they eliminate spacers and speed rings.
They're not ideal for it, but the best in our lineup for bowl riding is the 65mm 81a (smallest and hardest). On a smooth concrete pump track, that's also the one I would use. For a rougher asphalt track, I would use the 70mm in 81a.
@@SurfskateLove Thanks ! I hope some day you'll come up with your own bowl riding wheels designed for guys like us who just like to carve bowls with surfskates !
Hi guys, are you planning to distribute your fantastic wheels to European skate shops and e shops? Unfortunately, because of shipping costs and customs charges, in Europe your wheels cost around 120€!
Huge fan of the channel! Your videos have helped me a ton in narrowing down the choices for my first surfskate!! Will your 70mm wheels fit well on a waterborne adapter with out wheel bite?? Or am I safer just going with the 65mm?
Hi guys, paolo from Italy, who distributes your wheels over Europe? I'm eager to test then! Unfortunately, getting things from USA is going to be too expensive, due to custom taxes... Thanks 🙌
Will the 78A 65mm are going to be better at generating speed at rough terrain (damn big rocks in the asphalt, damn) or 70mm ones? I really can't decide. All I want is pumping all day (and night) long!
@@gpc5010 Incorrect, how so? The majority of grip on skateboards comes from the inside lip of the 2 inside wheels (e.g. when turning left, the front left wheel's and the rear left wheel's inside lips and vice versa). How would offset wheels or sideset wheels have more grip than centerset wheels? Since centerset wheels of the same width have the most inside lip width.
Correct- inner lip plays a large role. Grip is coming from engagement of the lip. Holding contact patch constant, a center set wheel will engage that lip less than an offset or side set wheel which means less grip. An offset or side set wheel puts more weight directly on that lip which is why coning happens. The increased grip on the inner portion also equals increased wear which equals coning. Feel free to message me on social media for more discussion. Cheers 😎
@@gpc5010 I think you're mistaking wear and grip. Wear has to do mainly with hub placement. The area on the wheel where the hub is receives the most wear because your weight goes down on that part of the wheel. That's why you get a lot coning, especially on sidesets, because it mainly only wears down on the inside. Offset wheels get coning unequally, the lip further away from the hub wears less, so it remains bigger. Centerset wheels usually cone almost equally, so you end up with a wheel that cores on the middle with some wheel meat left on the inner and outer sides of the wheel. Now that wear is addressed, let's go back to grip... Grip comes from the shape and width of the inside lip. A sharp thin lip grips more than a fat or round lip. Sidesets usually have fat inner lips. Offsets and centersets can be shaped to have the grippy type of thin lips, or they can be shaped to be slidey, with thick and round inner and/or outer lips. To compare grip and hub placement, we need to keep the width of the wheels equal. However, shape cannot be kept the same because sidesets usually have a cut off end for its inner lip. A cut off end means that it has zero inner lip width and the lip shape is usually a thick, straight, vertical cut with no sharpness at all. Hence sidesets have the least grip. Now a centerset wheel with sharp inner lips will grip more than an offset wheel with sharp inner lips just because there is just more inner lip width there, since most of the width of offset wheels are located on the outside lips. There is one exception; however, and, they are called inset wheels, which are basically flipped offset wheels, where the inner lips are wider than the outer lips. It also means that the hub of inset wheels is located closer to the outer lips rather than the inside lips. If we are comparing inset vs. centerset wheels with the same lip profile and overall wheel width, then the inset will have more grip than the centerset. Conversely, although no manufacturer produces them, if you flip sideset wheels that have a sharp outer lip, so that the sharp lip is now facing to the inside, then you can, in theory, achieve more grip than centerset or inset wheels - provided that the wheels are all the same width. In summary, for wheels with the same width and sharp lips, the most grip likely comes from 1) flipped sidesets, 2) insets, 3) centersets, 4) offsets, and, lastly, 5) unflipped sidesets - in that order.
No, I’m not confusing grip and wear. You are not realizing how closely related they are. Centerset wheels are not grippier than an offset wheel because the weight is distributed more over the contact patch instead of focused on the lip, which you agree is driving a large portion of the grip. It can’t grip without weight input to it. Weight input is constant as well as core diameter and width. The only thing that changes is allocation of the weight input from rider. Why don’t we see centerset race wheels? According to you, center set wears more evenly and grips more- so why no center set race wheels? Wear and grip are inherently related. More grip equals more wear. You have a lot of attributes captured and there are a lot of variables but holding all other design characteristics constant, center set is not grippier than offset. I really dislike this type of technical convo on RU-vid- feel free to shoot me a message. I appreciate your input. Cheers.
