Hi. In this video we're soldering hwfly to the console in order to make a firmware backup. If you'd like to book a repair, please visit our website console-repairs.uk/ (+44)07451466640 - WhatsApp number (just for messages)
Thanks for your detailed videos! Just installed the hwfly 5 into my oled. No chance without your videos! I also didnt reball (or even heated) the emmc and still works perfectly fine. Diode value in multimeter was very high (around 0.860) but no problem seems :). Thank you.
Great video and very neat work... I still wouldn't attempt this myself as I can't be sure of my soldering temps.. too much heat and I will dislodge components too little heat and I will slowly cook my board!
I’ve done my due diligence (no experience) and after a lot of research, it seems very doable as long as you have good equipment. But that’s why I don’t recommend you do this yourself unless you know your equipment well. I suggest buying cheap boards and practice using your flux to see how it dries out and practice scratching boards to expose copper and do a lot of practice setting bases (I forgot the term where you create a base with the solder before soldering on connections) But if you end up doing it Goodluck to you and I hope you tried something new! Just don’t do anything you’ll regret
Sorry for this question, the track at point d near the processor flew off and soldered, it turned out only higher to the processor board, filled everything with varnish, but then I thought it was necessary to solder at that point. As I understand it, the path from the processor goes further somewhere, not just to a dead end
Did an install 2 weeks ago and it was fine. Seems like today it wont power up. I've disassembled and checked all the points which seem fine (even Dat0). Any thoughts on what the issue is?
That's awesome! Thank you very much for sharing your skills. I have two questions. I saw that 3.3v and GND points are applied above and below the chip capacitor when using the FPCB cable. But in your video, GND points are taken from somewhere else. If I don't use an FPCB cable, does the GND point have to be like this video? What is the reason? Lastly, what does it mean when OL appears on the multimeter? If the number is 0, do you mean GND or short? I'm doing a lot of research and study on this chip installation. I look forward to hearing from you sincerely.
I'm not sure if you still need info on this, but GND is ground, and you can take GND from any metal point on the board (USB Shield, CPU shield etc.) or other unused points which are connected to the ground plane. There's many. OL in diode mode means no connection, 0 means grounded.
Excellent video!! What is the difference between lockpick_RCM 15 vs the regular? Why not run the regular as it supports all firmwares. Also how does that affect the current version of lockpick? v1.9.11? does your procedure still apply as showin in this old video?
Hello, First of all thank you very much for these great tutorials. In this video you use which Hwfly chip? (4.1, 4.3, 5, 5+). I just bought an oled switch, do you advise me which chip model? Thanks again. PS: Hello from FRANCE
You can update the software just fine after you've modchipped it. Idk where you got the info that your eMMC will die from. Likely a software issue. Also, I have little confidence in that DAT0 adapter. I think it will come loose in 3-6 months. As it was a Samsung NAND, you could've added a bit of solder on the DAT0 tail and then reflowed the NAND so you'd have a permanent bond instead of one made by friction. Another nice thing about the Samsung NANDs is that you can use the FPCB cable just fine, which saves a lot of time imo and gives better stability in case the Switch gets dropped or something. Other than that, nice work!
Hello, question, is there a specific jumper wire need to use here? ive seen different tutorials where the wire they use sometimes has wrappings around them, while others expose like the one on this video, hope you could help me with this, thanks!
I was wondering that too. A guy in this video said he’s done it and prefers to rely on the pressure of the adapter against the dat0 ball. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y5-TPVecVsw.html
Hi updated my modded oled to 17.0.1 using daybreak and now its not turning on anymore. The LEDs in the vent pulsate purple, then flashes a green only once. Do you know what this means, please help 😢😢😢
Nicly done, great demonstration. I followed all your steps but had some complication. Nothing is reading from point B, witch i thought will be the easiest of all. Can you in-light me on what could be the reason?
Hi. Thank you. There are 3 different readings from this point. Some of them have 1.2v in diode mode, some 1.8v and some OL. Some multimeters have lower range and you won't see any value only OL. There is also small resistor near that point and you could just knock it off with your soldering iron by accident.
@@tvpartsworld806 thank you for your reply. The resistor is still intact, i had the thought it would be the multimeter too. Thank you again and waiting for more great devious.
Hi. Because you can't just update it using the update button in the system options. You need to use Daybreak app. First you need to download the firmware version you want from darthsternie.net/switch-firmwares/ and copy the folder to the root of your sd card and name it as firmware, then you need to open Daybreak app, choose the folder with your firmware and that is it. When you use official update button, it will brick your console and then you need to rebuild boot0 and boot1 (the console won't work in ofw) then boot it up to cfw and start Daybreak to update the console to the latest firmware.
My oled switch gives me time to time the red light after I take off the memory card and put it again, I sent it to the soldering worker 3 times now, what do you think about it, should I ask for a new switch and my money back (Hwfly chip money)
Last time I've received one Switch Oled back with the same issue. Red light not always but from time to time. I fixed it by removing the ribbon tape with D A C 3.3v GND points. Just use the jumper wire and solder the wire directly to the points instead of using that ribbon tape like in this video.
@@tvpartsworld806 I told the worker about that and he said I did it already, my issue now is that when I turn it off it doesn't turn on right away, I have to push the power button for 20 seconds then when I push it one more it shows me the red light, I have to let it 10 hours off then I do the same thing to give me the green and the power goes from 100 to 30 %, what do you think about this?
@@manu-zb I'm doing a couple of lites soon and noticed the 4.2 has a flex with the better 3V3 point near the cartridge slot, while the 5 uses the cap near the SD card slot. I'm a little bummed I have to run a jumper across the board manually to get better power.
@@manu-zb No. I'm talking about the secondary flex on the lite with the 1.8V and the dat points. I didn't realize until after they were shipped that the 4.2 had the better flex cable for the lite.
Nintendo switch oled reading 0.696 V and 0.702 V wich One is dat0 read coz not boot only black secreen and blue lite the 4 time yellow light 😂😂😂 plz any info.
You need to educate yourself. Making backups are legal so long as it's your own game you own. If you are downloading games you don't own, that's a different issue and is illegal. The whole purpose of custom firmware is homebrew (custom apps and custom games also legal) and back up of games you own. Anything other than that is illegal but you need to understand the ethics with what "piracy" means in your definition as you seem to have that confused.
I ran jumpers the same way as you. All diode ready in 600s except point B is OL which you say is okay. After firmware flash LED is purple then either goes red or turns off completely. Any ideas? @tvpartsworld
Point B value depends on the chip version. Some of them have OL, 1.8v or 1.2v . If it goes red, check dat0, D and A point. If you use the ribbon tape, remove it and solder jumper wires directly to the points.
