OLED PICOFLY Is it any better than HWFLY? 

was ur mod an oled?

saya juga terkejut.. ternyata gak pake hot air station. .

how did it go?

@@numeral382 honestly hot air station sitting on garage floor but I have since done 3 OLED's with adapter. I had issues with one of them needing to take apart and fix it. I am working up the confidence to try re-flowing nand, I'll get to it sometime.

RIP SD Card

Then he shouldn't have sent the card 🤷‍♂️

In function, it's reported as faster at glitching than HWfly so it is better. It's also much much cheaper (The RP2040-zero board is about $10 and hwfly close to $100). The disadvantage is it is harder to install since you need to solder the resistors to the RP2040 and also remove the switches and USB port (if you don't remove them the switch won't close up again).

@@Xorthis I don't think glitching time is very important. You don't exactly reboot a switch very often. The picofly has automatic glitch timing adjustment and reset on failure though, which is much more interesting for longevity without having to unscrew and/or tinker with the switch.

@@antonwestin5464 I never said it was important, I just pointed out a difference. And yep, the autoreset on failure is another advantage. It will be even better once the hwfly creators release their RP2040 based revisions which will be easier to install and much cheaper.

@@Xorthis £25-£30 average price for hwfly v4 from china

Google heard your thoughts and presented you a video

Rp2040 tiny rev. 1.1 have 47ohm resistor in lines cmd, clk and dat0. No need others resistors in normal situation.

Where can i get one of those?@

Why don't you ask the person you bought it from

This wire is "insulated" it's coated with enamel to prevent shorts

He's using enameled wire, looks like awg 38

staram sie, dzieki i pozdro

he's using a rp2040, 3x 47 Ohm resistors hwfly cable and don't use wire under 30 awg. So around 27 bucks for everything minus soldering equipment(iron kit,flux,solder).

According to @Xorthis, the diode value reading isn't important. As long as it's showing a connection with no short it's good to go. You should expect to see between 400-800 on the multi, 1.1 is still good too.

Reflow isn't exactly safe either since it can lead to the bga cracking. Unless you're reballing and doing a direct solder onto dat0, it makes more sense to friction mount since realigning the adapter is way easier than reballing the emmc if something goes wrong.

I don't have a price list, but in my country they charge around $200 for this install. I'd imagine he's charging somewhere between £100-£150 for this install.

@Xorthis 150£ was price for hwfly mod chip installation where alone mod chip cost 70£.Hardware required for pikofly mod cost 10£ so I'm not sure if this service still zcost 150£.

@@bartlomiejbarski1301 Most people charge a £50 bench fee for just looking at your hardware on their workbench. £100 would be a low guesstimate. The cost where I live is £150 for any modchip install.

Es esmaltado

The diode value reading isn't important. As long as it's showing a connection with no short it's good to go. You should expect to see between 400-800 on the multi, 1.1 is still good too.

eggns

If you updated to the latest version, the RGB colour codes changed. Now it uses a yellow indicator to show status. If after flashing it shows one yellow flash, it is ready to go. "now it's only 3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). This was made to make possible pi pico debugging + get rid of RGB/GRB issues Error codes list (= is long pulse, * is short pulse): = USB flashing done ** RST is not connected = CMD is not connected = D0 is not connected == CLK is not connected =** eMMC init failure during glitch process == CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen == CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet) === Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch =*** eMMC init failure == eMMC write failure - comparison failed == eMMC write failure - write failed =*== eMMC test failure - read failed == eMMC read failed during firmware update === BCT copy failed - write failure === BCT copy failed - comparison failure ==== BCT copy failed - read failure"

@@Xorthis mine just lights up yellow, so if that means it’s good to go I’m good then. Thanks

@@franciscojose8428 Yep! It confused me too since I was following the V4 guide, I thought it was green and soldered the RGB/BRG pads and nothing happened, then I read the changelogs and saw :D

@@Xorthis Thanks brother. i was worried about that but now i just have to solder the chip to the oled

those look like 0.1mm

@@antonwestin5464 ok ty

yeah it's 0.1mm, they work fine. Some people are using 0.2mm for the 3.3v and Ground, but it shouldn't be an issue as long as you don't used mixed gauge for both 3.3v and GND (what goes in must come out). Teflon is actually a little easier to work with as you can simply melt the teflon off the wire ends when soldering. Enamel can be a bit tougher to strip and tin with heat. As you can see he pretinned the wires to avoid holding the iron on the components while waiting for the enamel to strip. There's a good guide on tinning magnet wires here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0YIT6MeaXT4.html

It's either chip quik or SRA fast chip, they're both pretty much identical. Fast chip tends to be a little cheaper.

Enameled wire, looks like awg 38

You can still update the console. But you need to follow the posted guides on updating as hekate will need updating, as will the picofly firmware.

It's the same process, the points are just on different places. There are diagrams online showing where the points are for different switch models

if you are particularly bad ar soldering yes... they are tiny components and if you keep heating them they can be damaged.

They're not exposed. That's enamel coated magnet wire. The yellowish colour is from the enamel coating on the wire. That's why he has to tin the wires when doing the final connection as the enamel needs to be melted off with heat.

@@Xorthis random question but what would you recommend long term stability and hardware wise, picofly install or instinct v6? im paying for a service soon

@@mza2001 It's hard to say since both methods require similar soldering. If you're modding an OLED the EMMC connection is probably the most troublesome point in the mod process. picofly has shown to have better glitch times but a more complicated install. The hwfly creators have started selling RP2040 based hwfly boards and if you want to go for something which reduces the chance of a bad install but still gives the advantages of picofly, I'd recommend that. Watch out with the instinct V6, make sure they're using the updated version that doesn't have the bridging issue due to low quality masking on the V6's pads.

@@Xorthis Thank you for the detailed reply my man, i went with the picofly after seeing this a few days ago and sent over for service to him

Never mind

Nintendo>Sadga, Xbox>Phoney, Android>Crapple. Idiots have been picking sides for decades for no reason. Get your worthless fanboi shit out of here, it doesn't matter what mod people use, there's reasons for both. Hwfly was expensive and now hwfly are making RP2040 based modchips too. Still shit?