I have a new JTS M12AR 12 gauge shotgun, with about 75 rounds the hammer pin came out on one side causing a double shot with 3" #4 Buck, that was quite unexpected and unplesant. Bought these and they installed nice, tight, used a small screwdriver to tap in the locking pin and it is SOLID now. I will never run into that crap again, thanks for this product.
I like the idea of ease of installation, but compared to other Strike Industries add-ons these Anti-walk & Anti-rotation Trigger Hammer Pins don't live up to the SI look, and aesthetics of their other products in my opinion. Also... I believe the video should show the installation into the lower, and not just the final step. Tube On!
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@Strike Industries on your packaging and web store, you show the installation being the opposite of what is shown in this video. Does it really matter ? If so, which way is the correct way ? Hammer pin with the open or closed side of the locking bar ???
I’m 3 years late but I’d do the keyhole side up like the video has it. This bitch is not coming loose either way but it would have to fight gravity to slide out of the keyhole this way
I just installed it on my lower and a piece of the the lip broke when I pushed it unto the pin. It was aligned properly but the mouth of it was too narrow and a piece flew off. Smh.
The reason I’m considering getting these besides the ones where you actually have to just screw on it as I hate the risk of stripping anything in this prevent that
dude I just finished installing it and it was by far the hardest project I had to do, guns or not. That fucker is IMPOSSIBLE to clip in. It was hours of pure torture.
Yes, as much as I like SI stuff this is just pure shite. The other thing to consider is that anti walk / anti rotation pins only really matter if you have a cassette style aftermarket trigger. On triggers such such a Geissele they specifically state not to use these kind of pins, since rotation of the trigger pin is part of the AR15 design.
I'm kind of at at a loss with this video... yes, the instructions are correct but it took two people and like 5 hours to get that stupid fucking thing to snap on. Protip: the needle nose pliers are ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL HERE. If you have disposable gloves, cut off the tips of them and use that as a wrap as electrical tape can be too thick for this application. THIS IS A FUCKING NIGHTMARE TO INSTALL. I'm a fan of SI but do yourself a favor and just go buy anti walk pins from Rise Armament. You'll be done in literally 5 minutes and your fingers won't be bleeding from underneath your fingernails for a week. God help me if I fd something up with the trigger/safety assembly and I have to disassemble this - I will just trash the rifle, it's not worth it.
This is by far the hardest thing I ever had to do when it relates to AR builds. Pivot pin? Child's play. Shoot the the bolt catch plunger into the abyss never to be seen again? Child's play. This will make your fingers bleed.
Lined it all up snaped it on and well it didnt snap on it bent. Lit as a true intelectual i hit it with a hammer in frustration put it back on bent again then i hit it with a punch on the rifle and closed it back. Pretty shit product ngl
You need to explain your statement.... impossible.. unless you botched it up during your installation...... once installed (correctly) they don't move.
Anti-walk & Anti-rotation Trigger and Hammer Pins are completely unnecessary and a liability..The fire control pins were designed to rotate..If your pins are walking out, you have other problems that are easy to diagnose and fix..
@@banditoandy9784 They do more harm than good..Here is Chad from SOTAR: 1) The use of Anti Walk/Anti Rotation pins shows the Manufacturer of these devices and the consumers who buy the devices dont understand how the AR15 or M16 trigger mechanism is designed to work. Eugene Stoner and Jim Sullivan designed the weapon so the Hammer and Trigger Pins would float (Rotate) each time the weapon is fired or the bolt carrier cycles. When a user installs A.R.P.'s the Hammer and Trigger Pins are locked in place and they can't float/rotate as intended. This slows down lock time (Hammer Speed) due to friction and increases the chance of a Trigger failure to reset, or a fail to fire (Light Strike) if the F.C.G. gets fouled. The TDP (Technical Data Package) for the M4 actually calls out for the F.C.G. pins to rotate. These issues are amplified if there is not sufficient lubricant present in the F.C.G. components. 2) In my experience almost all A.R.P.'s are softer and will gall or break long before a GOOD Milspec Hammer or Trigger Pin will. For what it's worth, Nitrided Anti Rotation Pins do have much better durability than their bare stainless steel counterparts. When A.W.P.'s gall it can cause the F.C.G. to not reset or fire in the same ways mentioned above. Users of A.R.P.'s can allow MORE damage occur when they break because you won't know when the Pins are broken. Standard/Floating Hammer and Trigger Pins will walk out of the Lower Receiver when they break giving you and indicator that they are broken. This is a good thing. I have worked on and observed Registered M16, "Commie State" Pre-Ban AR's, and S.B.R. Registered Lowers that were chewed up because the A.R.P.'s Hammer Pin broke and didn't walk. When this happens, it chews up the Hammer Bore in the Lower Receiver and requires costly sleeving to fix. 3) Almost all versions of A.W.P.'s require tools to remove the F.C.G. With Standard/Floating Hammer & Trigger Pins, the Firing Pin can be used in the field to remove standard/floating F.C.G. Pins. This should NOT be done often, as it can damage the Firing Pin Tip. Why would you need to remove the pins in the field or the range? If you get a popped/blown primer in the F.C.G. pocket in the lower, it will require removal of the F.C.G. to clear the primer. The screws that are used for A.R.P.'s are not very strong at all, so if you are dead set on using them, please use a Inch # Torque Wrench to install them. 10 IN# is a good setting to use. Too much torque can stretch or break the screws and the torque wrench takes away the human capacity to break or stress them. I have also seen cases where the force from the screws being tightened can slightly collapse the F.C.G. pocket in the Lower Receiver which will cause additional F.C.G. binding. 4) A.R.P.'s can cause problems in user completed 80% Lowers. Galvanic corrosion can happen if you have bare stainless A.R.P.'s sitting in a the Non-Anodized Hammer and Trigger Pin Bores. All it takes is insufficient lube and some moisture for the corrosion to begin. 5) Amateurs removing/installing the F.C.G. improperly or excessively is the main cause of Hammer and Trigger Pins hole wear. Rotation of the Hammer and Trigger Pins are not what causes significant wear to the Hammer and Trigger Pin Bores. 6) Other issues that can cause the Hammer and Trigger bores in the Lower Receiver to enlarge can be wear due to contaminants and fouling combined with a lack of proper lubricant. Lack of lubricant can also allow galvanic corrosion to occur due to dissimilar metals making contact. This only happens once the finish wears off on the Hammer/Trigger Pins and the anodizing wears down in the Hammer and Trigger Bores. 7) M16 owners buy them out of unsubstantiated fear of their investment wearing out, but data does not prove this out. AR15 owners buy them for the same reasons but sometimes just want another "doodad" on their gun. The U.S. Government makes a U.S.G.I. Plug Gauge to check for Hammer and Trigger Bore wear. I own this Gage (Several in fact) and I also have custom ones that I have made to measure the graduated wear over the weapons service life. It takes tens of thousands of rounds/F.C.G. cycles to even begin to wear the hammer bores +.001 on a properly assembled and lubricated AR15 or M16 with a forged Lower. The failure point is +.008 from new (.163). I have spoken to countless Military Armorers who have used the U.S.G.I. Plug Gage and they have consistently told me that they can count on one hand how many Lower Receivers have failed the Plug Gage. Even on heavily abused guns it's rare to fail the U.S.G.I. Plug Gage. Does anyone not find it odd that these companies who sell A.R.P.'s, don't sell the gauges to actaually check for wear but have no problem selling the public a product to "prevent wear". Sorta backwards isn't it? If there was a problem with U.S. Government M16/M4 Lower Receivers wearing out, then A.R.P.'s would be an easy fix, but they are not. The Lower Receivers don't get replaced for wear from pin rotation. They get replaced due to getting ran over, other service related conditions, and people removing the F.C.G. for no reason. If A.R.P.'s were worth a darn then they would have found their way on to the MK18 or some other DoD Product Improvement Program. If there was a problem, a P.I.P. would have been implemented for the M16 variants, M4 variants in service. If there was an improvement to be made in this area then Colt, Knights, FN, or Geissele would have made use of the concept and pushed it. So in summary. If you want good Hammer/Trigger Pins use the ones sold by Colt, LaRue, SOLGW, Sionics, Geissele, etc, and just keep the firearm generously lubricated. As long as you don't take the F.C.G. out repeatedly, and lubricate the firearm the bores in the Lower Receiver wont wear out. FYI, Anti Rotation Pins are also NOT to be used with Geissele Triggers. Email Geissele if you want secondary confirmation. In my experience the only applications where A.R.P.'s may be necessary are when using Cassette/Pack type AR Triggers. My experience with Cassette/Pack Triggers has shown me they are unreliable gimmicks as well so the idea is a wash. If your gun requires the use of A.R.P.'s then you have a problem that should be addressed, not covered with a bandaid fix like Anti Rotation Pins. Users of Blowback 9mm's and .22's report they can't use regular Hammer and Trigger Pins because they break in their blowback AR. If you are breaking Hammer and Trigger Pins then you have a non balanced buffer or recoil system. It means you need to make changes to the gun such as a tungsten carrier weight, shorter barrel, heavier buffer, or a heavier buffer spring. If you like your Anti Rotation Pins, keep them, but understand that if you are a competitor, they might cost you a match one day. If you hunt with an AR it may cause you to miss a shot. If you use an AR for defense or Law Enforcement work, it may cause your gun to fail when it's called into service.
@@hairydogstailbrother this is a great response and did not get the love it deserved. You saved me a potentially head ache. Do you know where to get gauges for cheap? SOTAR has them but are very pricey for a normal guy. I wish I saw this before the installation was finished😂
