Antifouling, new rubbing strips and boat show 

I have been trying to figure out what it is about your videos that is so appealing...and have concluded that it's the way that you speak to us, like we are there with you. You have figured out how to put the "real"into reality TV. 30 years ago I lived on an 8 meter Prowler Command Bridge, on the other side of the planet in Toronto, Canada for 8 years, but not until your videos, 30 years later, have I started to miss it, and want to live it all over again. Cheers to you for what you are giving the thousands like me that literally can't wait for your next upload.

honestly one of the best youtube channels, straight to the point, awesome info, and just a generally affable guy spending his time with us. as soon as i figure out a way to buy this guy a coffee, tea beer, whatever i will support this channel, i would posit that viewers of this channel may enjoy the "tips from a shipwright" channel, also stew may benefit from some of his steaming videos where he uses bags instead of pvc tubes to slowly pull in the wood with clamps, ratchet straps etc.. I never comment but his last video about the rover and the tasteful way in which he acknowledged the way we helped him, made this one of the most real youtube channels, cheers from the pacific northwest! and consider visiting up here on your route 66 tour!

usual comments danger dude she is at the stage where you are starting to see results and it must be very rewarding now after all that time grinding and welding and filling the stuff that is heart breaking, I am completely hooked and that from a man who lives in the furthest point from the sea in England keep it up mate, im rooting for ya

The boat with wheels was just nuts.....😁 Thanks for the video. 👍

I wish I had found this rebuild series 2 years from now so I could just binge watch the entire thing at once. This business of waiting for new episodes weekly/bi-weekly drives me crazy. Good Stuff!!!

So satisfying watching you pull the tape off, glad you left the footage in rather than just tell us

The timber rubbing strips looks amazing, the bottom half of the boat is looking like a boat again.

idk why i enjoy this series so much, i am far from into boats. I think the in depth restoration is just really satisfying

Retired wooden boat builder here, with your rubbing strip use the old one for the hole locations (as said before here) START at the pointy end, use the old ones for the compound cut at the bow, then it a lot easier to bend them, with "steam" as you work your way aft, the last 1/2 you are only bending in one plane, not 3, as you will be doing at the bow. Easier to start at the bow using the long aft end as a lever to bend around the forward end of the sheer line where it has the most curvature and twist. Then the aft end is a breeze. especially as you don't have full length timber an you have to make a joint, where you might well have to either add another nut welded to the hull, or make a joggled scarf over the last available fastener to be able to bring both timbers together. Just my $0.02 of help for you. Great series any way mate cant wait until she is in the water and Ur happy with her.

Out of all currently running RU-vid boat building shows, Dangar Marine is #1 because it makes nautical noobs like me feel like I could realistically accomplish this size of a project.

Your boat is starting to look like a boat now with the painting, anti fouling and rubbing strips. The boat show dream segment was very good.

Looking great! The wood looks like mahogany. I had to smile when you said to keep the wood natural. I believe we think alike. Good or bad..... who cares. Have a beer on me!

Using the jack to bend that board was a nice trick. Well played. The wood rail looks nice against those colors. Whole boat looks great!

Wow just realised I have watch your whole series on the trawler in a matter of a week. I am far from a boatie but I do enjoy a good resto

This is exactly what happened to me. I am in Dubai (working from home) and binging the hell out of this. I love it. I will be visiting home for the first time in 2 1/2 years this December and will be sure to get back on the water as much as possible. Ill keep an eye out for your masterpiece when im on the water. im up to episode 25. Makes me want to do something like this. Great work from a locked out Aussie

Thanks for the “fix” Stu. Good to see you getting a break from the project. I think you could sell DangarMarine stamped phone “device” stands made from pieces of your old rubbing strips and snow globes of the rust and garnet mixture for Christmas. Think about it, could be HUGE! 😉

Can't wait to see this thing running on the water !!

We call them rub rails in the states you silly Aussie. (I am kidding you! I really love ya and your channel. You are a life saver!)!

Looking good, Stu. When I install fresh rub rails I start at the bow. The most bending occurs as the beam widens and having the long end unattached gives greater leverage to make the bend. Having had boats since 1962 I've done my share of rewiring. A marine electrician friend of mine taught me to always run a complete circuit for each electrical item to and from the circuitbreaker panel. The only common ground should be at that panel. Common grounds tend to fail when located willy-nilly all over the boat. Salt air is a corosion maker so coat your conections with "Monkey Spit", slang for "Gayco", an aircraft and marine contact sealer that looks like an oily bit of grey silicone, or "Monkey Spit". You will use more wire with this system, but electronic failures will be rare and last many years. A white bootstripe above the antifouling will look nice and break up all that dark area. How's the engine comming along? See you on the next one.

Painting tip for a crisp line where two colors meet: Paint with color #1, going past the meeting point. Tape. Paint along edge of tape with the same color, #1. Then paint with color #2. That coat of color #1 after taping will seal the edge of the tape so color #2 can't bleed under it. In your case, paint the blue further down, tape, another coat of blue on the bottom edge of the tape, then the black anti-foul.

Awwww.... little roo there..... sooo cool!

What I like to do, when I have to make new parts, and I have the old ones, is I use the old parts as a template for cutting and drilling the new ones. Works perfect every time. Boats looking great man.

Another great video, trouble is we wish our lives away craving the next one, Really great job and coming along nicely, What an inspiration, keep up the good work! 👍

Loving these videos. Always waiting for the next one. I just love your style and attitude towards the way you do things. If I lived down under I would have loved to visit and lend a hand for a couple of weeks.

Knowing you Stu I reckon getting that anti foul finally applied would have called for a several beer celebration with Arn 🍺😎 Looking great mate. Home stretch now 👍

Holy crap, boats are evolving!

Looks great stu 👍, black, great choice 👍

Who else is annoyed at the people that give Stu a thumbs down? Stu I have learned so much from you. Keep up the great videos with sound information. You are the best.!.

Awesome Boat!

She looks fantastic mate Well done 👍🏻

Good effort , she's coming up great. Cove show looks a lot better that Our Melbourne one .

I had to post my post in here ;) here again: A new invention of Rik Breur is the Marine Antifouling fibre wrap. Thx for the trawler vids, I really enjoyed it!

I know nothing about boats but I have enjoyed all your videos since the first one.

Looking good now 👍

Definitely need to trade that green machine in on that race boat 🤙🤙

The timber looks real nice. Oil is a excellent idea

Good job 👍 pro Im enjoy always wen I watch your learners video U r my teacher 👨‍🏫 Thank u😘

Furiously cranking up the jack. "Can't hear any cracking noises". Way to go Stu. I really look forward to watching this. The boat is slowly getting there.

Best series on RU-vid - just got my Dangar Marine T-shirt yesterday. Impressed with the fast shipping.

I like that you're leaving the natural wood.

The boat looks fantastic You doing one helluva job! Can't wait to see it hit the water.

I love this series. I want to maybe have a boat someday. Probably saved me a lot of money and hassle/danger - both in seeing how to do what is needed. And - I say this with the greatest respect - I think I'll make a NEW boat versus buying an old one if I want to 'save' money... You've put in enough effort you could have gotten a kit and welded it together... Again, utmost respect.

Your neighbours will love the new chopper Dangar aviation - the start of an empire :)

The egg beater tool to clean out the shaft housing is cool, I don’t have particular need of one, but want one anyway!

Hey Stu, great job you've made already! If you are going to apply an extra coat of AF put it above the chine! Not on the underside. AF will wear off the quickest on the waterline and just below the waterline. It is there where you need an extra layer of AF. Greetings from Holland !

I like that idea of camper boat for towing

Really nice update. Thanks.

loving the series you're doing a great job

I have a Rocna now days. It is amazing. Best anchor I have ever used.

I'm loving those colors the boat look great and yeah it the perfect replacement for the green machine haha

Hi Stu, You can get a cylindrical burr/rotary rasp for wood at hardware store to enlarge your rubbing strip holes or washer holes without making them look like a mess, then you can even get what we call a fender washer which has an larger O.D. to fill up the hole, if need be you can grind the outer edge to fit you egg shaped hole. Might have to use two together, here they are a bit thinner than std. washers here in the States. Keep your wood wet while trying to bend it soak some rags/old towels and wrap in some plastic to keep it from drying out, it will form better. It will take at least 24 hours of steaming to get the wood saturated and heated enough to bend. After getting it formed you might want to put a thin layer of, sikaflex, pasted onto the back of your rubbing strip so moisture will not sit behind it and the bored holes, you'll have to take it back off again. Water will still come up into from the sea side of the hull, just be caulking the top, depends on how long you want it to last. That looks like what rotted your previous rubbing strip. It is sort of like bedding in a toe rail on a sailboat to make it water resistant to the mounting area imperfections.

The way you were holding the camera made that dog's legs at the end look huge.

When transferring threaded holes use spotting screws, they look like a setscrew with a sixty degree turned point with a offset angled slot for a screw driver. Screw them in until the point is protruding enough to produce a witness mark after transfer. The transfer process requires a hammer or mallet. In your case it may take several goes of transferring and drilling to complete the full length of timber. This method is used in a lot of different trades. I hope this helps. Cheers

Nice work!

She's shaping up....looking good.

Try using a long ratchet strap around the hull to gradually pull the timber into place. Even if you join a couple together with some rope. Easier and cheaper than getting more allthread and stuffing around with removing it later.

When I do that kind of wood work, use a drill bit that is no bigger than about 1/2 of your centre point. That way it gives you a place to start both holes & when you have the beam all counter sunk , you go through each hole with the proper size drill bit for the bolt.

That is going to be an awesome trawler when you are done with it!

Getting there....nice.

Another great video,thanks

Stu, that is looking Sweet. Lovely finish on the underside of the boat. You're doing a fine job. Thanks for sharing.

Ha yes I think you should get the Helicopter for your commute to work or the offshore powerboat for a quicker commute! Always a great video!!!

Another great video Stu. Shes looking like one sharp vessel with that awesome paint job. If you ever want to clean out tube or bores use the sv seeker method of a long rod and sandpaper Keep up the great work mate

More good progress, Stu! Agree with a previous comment about it being easier to start at the bow of the boat. That gives you the most leverage to flex the timberwhere the curve is the greatest. Also, it's easier to splice the 2nd piece where it's relatively straight toward the back end of the boat. But you are doing just fine without my 2 cents. Keep up the good work!

Looking good

Getting there, don't give up

Looks like a right proper job you're doing with your boat, keep up the good work ! Best wishes !

That funky music sure does make you paint fast. :) Great work Stu. It is looking fantastic.

The hull is looking very nice and so much different than at haul out. Nice work.

At 8:09 looked like the SPEED DRILL was going to introduce itself to the CROWN JEWELS. Without the CJ's...you can't have a Royal Vessel! Careful there, Stu.

Looking good.

Great video as always. Re your electrics. When I was in diesel mechanic trade school and all the years in the industry just make sure you have good grounds. Grounds Grounds Grounds! On boats you don’t want to use a frame/hull grounds to power your electrical equipment due to electrolysis. But you do want to make sure to run good grounds from your engine/generator/battery/solar systems to the frame/hull. Run a dedicated ground wire back to the ground system for each piece of equipment. If you find room in the budget I would incorporate a small diesel generator. Just for emergency purposes. You can get a more powerful bilge pump that way just in case and also just not be limited. You may never run it but....

Awesome Stu. For the antifouling”piece” left after the full coats, I always get the waterline first and work down since there seems to be more wear there and also (for my local conditions) more growth occurs where there’s more sunlight. (We have more slime than barnacles though). I also hit the high wear areas like the rudder, etc and keep going till it’s gone. The best feeling of satisfaction when the bottom paint goes on. Congratulations!!

All coming together nicely. 😃 she's looking good Stu

I missed you at the boat show unfortunatly, coming along great. Looking forwardto the electrical vids

I’m glad your in better spirits! That rub rail is going to be nice ! Good idea to seal the joint . They make a plastic conduit thats flexible and I believe it comes up to 2.5in. Round , I’ll get the name for you , they use it underground .

Outstanding ...great work/video ...Fun!! .. .. we just spray paint through old holes to locate conveyor belting at work (similar to your wood work at odd angles) .. ..good choice on oiling !! Thanks for sharing !!!!

Welcome back mate !

This was really enjoyable to watch this morning on memorial day here in California if you’ve ever heard of this place before. Thank you for such a great video i loved it!

The sea legs boats are always a lot of fun when you get to see people react to you driving out the water up the slip way

I really enjoy your updates, Can't wait to see the Engine Go in

Ive been waiting for my dangar marine vid fix 👍👍

A possible solution would have been to make up some bolts with a tip grinded at one end. Insert them in the threaded holes on the hull an press the wood against them, making a mark on the timber..

Binge watching now and it is Awesome! I wish you all the best Stu!

Thanks for another great post Stu! Just bought my T-shirt to help support the cause.

Miles from where you started, all that work is starting to come together!

Fabulous work as always!

Not sure if you picked a name for the boat yet but I'd like to make a suggestion. " Just Do It " To me, that is the theme for this restoration. You get out there and no matter what...you just do it. Welding? Done! Stripping interior? Done! Designing an electrical system? Done. Doesn't matter. You don't make excuses and put it off until tomorrow....you just do it. Even when you run into a wall and can't get a planned project done..you do something else in it's place just to keep the restoration moving along. Awesome job.

Looking good Stu!...

Looks great Stu...Coming along now. :)

Maybe use the old rubbing strip for hole locations.

You can get a cylinder de glazing tool that uses emery cloth or silicone carbide "sand paper". These are very cheap and are far more effective, especially when you dont need the accuracy that your stone honing tool offers.

I gotta say you chose a right color mate. Looks good. I have to do the same thing.

Thanks again. Always learning.

Another great vid Stu👍

Good stuff! I would have used the old rubbing strip for the hole locations and also to clamp it to start to shape it. But I’m also sitting on my ass watching you work on your boat. 👍

Looking good! 👍

It is definitly going uphill now with the rebuilt :D BTW if you do a rewiring of the electricity, dont forget to put an extra socket or two for the (beer) fridge....... Somehow I always run out of sockets for my appliances.

I've been patiently laying in wait, for the "electronics" upload. @dangarstu you should have some of your cherished viewers enter a lottery, to come and help you. Would make excellent content!

Hey I'm a sparky, my advice, people who tell you it's wrong probably don't know enough to know it's better than their idea. I've seen your electrical work, not what I would do, but definitely good enough to have as many pro's as con's to how I would do it, and I would end up doing it different every time anyway.