Antique Spinning Wheel 

Click on the about page and you will see the email. Another way is to do a video then load it to your youtube channel then post a link and I’ll check it out.

I only say this as you out Grease on your drive band and it ends up breaking alot quicker x

I"ll give it a go.

@@sadiesspincraft6319 Never considered the oils from the hand on the drive band. I do however use long line two ply linen yarn and its very strong for its diameter.

@@abittwisted please dont think I was being bossy by all means spin as you like and you spin a lovely yarn and once you get used to her your yarn will get thinner and more consistent as I found out when I went onto a proper woolen wheel as I learned how to spin on an old castle flax wheel that went at a hundred mile an hour lol now its relaxing to spin I hope you enjoy her once you get used to her

@@sadiesspincraft6319 Did not consider that at all. I like feedback and I love new suggestions to help me. This wheel is for sale. I have two others I use all the time. I have one that is much newer than this old gal and it is a similar Saxony design DD wheel but better. I had another whorl made and 6 new bobbins made as it had only one when I purchased the wheel. The new whorl is lager than the one that came with the wheel so I can spin my flax without putting too much twist in the fiber. Works like a champ. I have my other whorl on the wheel right now for spinning wool. The small whorl is for cotton and very short staple wool. I really don't ever use that. I have been spinning now for 2 years and my goal is to grow my own shirt. My main mission is to get real good with linen but I do love spinning wool. That is getting better too. I have been practicing my long draw and it too is getting much better. Fiber prep is key. I wash and prep my own raw wool I purchased. I learned skirting and washing and typically wash in cold or room temp water which gets out the crud and oils but leaves the lanolin. Like spinning with a little left in the wool. The hot water and soap to scour out the lanolin after. Check out my videos. :)

Can't say without pictures of the wheel. Very broken is rather subjective. To me that sounds like fire wood. Pictures are mandatory. send pics to abitoftwist at g mail

If it has no date on the wheel you can only guess but the style is an old style and the wear is quite used. I have a wheel of a similar style that was built in 1978 as stated on the wheel and I found someone in Canada that said it was built in Canada. I was originally told it was built in 1968 in Italy. Nope. It was cool having confirmation that it was built in Canada and the builder is no longer alive. Too bad, they are great wheels. This one however is just old. Exactly how old, I really don't know. Im guessing at least 100 if not older. But it was a well used wheel.

This wheel is long gone.

There are a few things that can prevent the bobbin from taking up. First is to be sure your bobbin spins smoothly on the shaft of the flyer. If it is binding at all it can prevent taking up. If your tension is too loose it won't take up if your bobbin spins freely. It needs a little tension to to draw up thread. If your hooks are rusted they could be catching the yarn and preventing it from moving onto the bobbin. They need to be smooth so the yarn can slide easily. Also if the flyer, bobbin and whorl are not the correct ones it may not work either. So the bobbin needs a smaller diameter grove than the whorl. If the bobbin grove is larger than the whorl it won't take up either. If you have a video on RU-vid that can show the issue while you are attempting to get the thread onto the bobbin I can better help. Also if the thread you are spinning is just too heavy for the size of the orifice and hooks it may just be over twisting which can cause binding. The old wheels are designed to spin thin thread for weaving. Let me know what you figure out. Take your time looking into each of my suggestions one at a time. It could be a combination of them. I had a wheel that I picked up that had the wrong flyer and bobbin and whorl. The bobbin and whorl had the exact same diameter groove and the thread would not wind onto the bobbin at all. Once I cut a deeper groove into the bobbin the wheel worked just fine.

@@abittwisted my bobbin and whorl appear to be the same size. Thank you for the information. I’m going to try a new bobbin and flyer!

@@paulakb3614 Just remember. The bobbin grove must be smaller than the whorl grove.

Yes. Times are tougher for sure but not everyone will have the ability to make them let along the money to buy them. So when I get to that point I will trade instead of sell. Im getting a wheel that was made in the early 80’s but no longer in business. Not many were made but the design was good. Small, compact and a Double Drive easy to transport as needed and has a large bobbin for plenty of yarn. Im going to disassemble it for the design and size of the pieces and will then do some upgrades to make it easy to repair for anyone who ever gets one. I’ll source local wood. I will need to get a small wood lathe and metal lathe for making some of the components. Some components will be hand forged as well. I have a welder so that part is covered for those parts that need welded. I will be getting a smaller arc welder to use with my off grid battery system. Metal sourced will be junk re-purposed for the wheel. No need to buy new. Much of the wood will be English Walnut and Black Walnut as that is one item we have locally by the droves. I’d like to try my hand at a great wheel or just a spindle wheel for quick easy yarn. Spindles are faster and easier and simpler than the flyer wheels. I have a spindle on my Ashford and have gotten pretty good at that.