Anvil Restoration 

I agree with you. It should have been resurfaced by a grinding machine. that you make it flatter and stronger. Welding just is not they way to to go to restore a anvil.

- - - -Mega Deuz nope.

@@iridios6127 um yes cause it’s cast iron

@@charlesuplifted5216 A year ago I weld a vice - nothing cracked. Without any preheating.

@@charlesuplifted5216 I don't think it's cast iron, that's not a typical material for anvils. I'm sure it's cast steel.

Cast iron actually is a relatively common material for anvils, although more common in london pattern ones. For most of the history of blacksmithing after full sized rather than stake anvils started being favored, anvils were a wrought iron base (usually made of several smaller pieces forge welded together to build up the shape of the anvil) with a higher carbon steel suitable for tools (I don't say tool steel because some modern classification systems don't call simple high carbon steels like 1080 tool steel, but blacksmiths at the time would understand tool steel to mean something like 1080) plate forge welded to the main striking face that is hardened and tempered. On london pattern anvils the plate stands proud of the top of the horn, but with many other patterns like this one the plate usually spans the whole top surface of the anvil. A more recent development is cast iron bases with a steel suitable for tool making welded to the top, but that process has only been around for a couple hundred years and many manufacturers stuck to wrought iron bases, most of the ones that switched primarily made london patterns afaik. 100% tool steel anvils are even more recent, the price of tool steels has come down a lot compared to history to make it feasible to just cast a whole anvil out of tool steel. You can buy 100% cast iron anvil shaped objects, but cast iron is a horrible material for an anvil face, it is way too soft and brittle. It works just fine as a base if you put a hardened steel plate on top though. @@skunkjobb

Thank you. The intent was great but as a blacksmith myself, several parts of this video made me cringe. There's a huge dip in the face, I have a feeling that there was more sections of that face that were separated, those hardy and pritchel holes need to be shored up badly, and that face is going to mar and gouge like a SOB as soon as you bring a hammer down without proper heat treat

@@TopHIgnite exactly. I'm a blacksmith as well (for fun/part time). The Gunther method should have been followed.

@@slc308 another RU-vidr by the name of That Other Finnish Guy has a really good anvil restoration video of a double horn around the same size including heat treat and rebound test.

@@TopHIgnite If you have a well dressed hammer even mild steel holds up fine against mishits. The corners can roll over slightly but you can hammer them back to shape easily. Doubt heattreating a heavy anvil is even going to save you any time in the long run unless you have the proper equipment to do it.

@@tijlaerts when you use hard facing rod, it air hardens. You don't need to heat treat it.

É verdade concordo com você.

What they said

It does look much better but yes mill off the top plate. Weld on a new piece of 1/2”. Heat it white hot & then quench it with oil. The top should ping. Maybe even mill the bottom as well

@@johnkaspar462 When I first started watching anvil restoratuon vids, I had a similar thought, but after seeing various people attempt part or all of that, I realized what a daunting PITA it is. > From whatcI saw, welding on a new plate from just the sides can be problematic, because unless the entire bottom surface is welded to the anvil, it can cause large swaths to dead ring, if there is even minor warpage. A full pen weld is impractical because thatd require raising the deck higher and/or hogging off a lot of material to make room to weld from the centerline out. In lieu of a full size 1k+ hammer and an industrial oven to forgeweld a new fullsize deck, the only practical option for individual craftsmen is to just preheat and buildup a new deck with hardface weld, then mill it flat. > I saw a vid once of a couple of guys who managed to heat a medium sized anvil to yellow hot, then chain hoisted it over a 55gal steel drum of quenching oil, and lowered it in. Huge flaming mess ensued that put most deep-fried turkey fail vids to shame. And to add insult to injury, the quench only accomplished shallow surface hardening (consider the massive internal heat that dissipates SLOWLY outwards), so the resulting ring was actually lower than pre-attempt. 🤯😂

what

Gracias por tus comentarios Hola desde Uzbekistán también

thank you very much for your advice we still have little experience

No tool steel sheet... For this are used hard facings electrodes... That u than grind the face with the horns and corners only, to have it flat... This is destroyed anvil...

@@fearthereaper298 the tool steel can welded with mild steel electrodes and provide a clear flat face so there is necessary to grind...

@@thiodorchalkias8906 but if you wanted to do it by the way you have just written, u would need to grind bellow the plate to be super flat. But it's stupid idea, becouse the weld would Crack, etc. When u want to weld the face of an anvil, you must pre-heat the anvil, weld few layers with normal rods and then weld with hard facing rods. It will last decades of work

@@fearthereaper298 there is not necessary to preheat the anvil this is for the case that you have to weld aluminium Using only weldind rods its necessary not only griding but hardenig as well!!!

For hot metal processing

У меня нету такой оборудования

Я живу в Узбекистане нашем стране даже 380В не дадут только 220в

@@ustametal так тогда вопрос, для чего делать инструмент заведомо некачественный? Вот к примеру: зеркало можно вывести с помощью линейки и крупного зачистного камня на 230ю болгарку. Отверстия можно вывести напильниками. Круглым и плоским. А закалить можно нагрев верхнюю часть в течении 2х часов на раскаленных углях, после опустить зеркало в тазик с отработкой. Для этого супер мощного оборудования ненужно. И тогда на ней можно будет даже ковать долгое время...

Old steel anvils are a a world of difference from cheap cast iron from Harbor Freight. The body is mild steel / wrought iron with a hard face forge welded on. The equipment to make them no longer exists as the anvils was made using serious steam hammers and a forge furnace big enough to raise the entire anvil body to welding temperatures. Modern equivalents are either too big or too small… Modern good quality cast anvils are basically homogeneous chrome nickel molybdenum tungsten steel… (and an entirely different bitch to weld to).

1956

@@ustametal thank u sir👌

Спасибо за комментарий. Ты себе смотри у тебя есть всё оборудование А у меня только один сварочный аппарат и болгарка я живу в Узбекистане нашем стране даже 380 В не дают мы работаем 220 В

@@ustametal ааа... Тогда извини. По поводу ремонта могу посоветовать сделать простую направляющую из двух уголков, на них рамку с четырьмя подшипниками по углам как колесики, и на рамку поставить болгарку с шлифовальным толстым диском, получится почти плоскошлифовальный. Я так выкручивался, когда станков у меня еще не было.

@@_MadFox Спасибо за советы

Автор посмотри другие видео с реставрацией. Ты просто зря потратил время и силы.