Anycubic Kossel 3D printer Upgrades- How to Install Heated bed and Linear Rails Part 1 

Easy way to remove the nuts from the aluminum frame is to use a magnet, they will just get out super easy that way, no need to disassemble the printer.

I printed my own t-nuts and i nested an actual hex nut inside of them using the Pause at Z plugin for Cura. This allowed me to use standard size machine screws =)

Quick DIY tip for T-Nuts on the Kossel style printers: I often work with Misumi products (directly in Japan) in the products that my company makes, so I'm quite familiar with a lot of the parts available. I would suggest to purchase some "post-assembly nuts" for the Misumi HFS3-1515 aluminum extrusions commonly used in Kossel printers. The product code for the nuts starts with "HNTP3" (for metric nuts). There may be nuts available for Imperial standard as well, though I am not positive - I work entirely with metric units (sorry!). Either way, I would HIGHLY suggest using these, as the T-nuts are a severe pain in the ass to work with, remove, and even just move around in the frame (as they tend to JAM a lot...).

Just a note to anyone out there taking their entire printer apart to get the T nuts, if you screw a bolt into them a little bit and try to pull them out at an angle it (sometimes) works...for me at least.

why you dont talk about the termistor port?

Once again, fantastic, authentic job -- earned my sub! P.S.: you may want to rename the vid title to Part 1. =)

Wouldn't it be better if you have the heated bed directly on the frame, without the cork in between? I imagine the cork is not perfectly flat

Hello! Which temperature does this heat bed reach? Do you think the Kossel could make for a good polycarbonate printer, with additional enclosure and heat bed and maybe another hotend?

what software are you using for cad?

for a second i was worried that you were actually going to try bracketing a heated bed with print with parts that get limp with heat.

please add a video how you setup calibration i have followed all video from anycubiv channel but mine can t be correctly tuned and my level is not good on all surface

nice attention to detail

Where'd you get those linear rails from?

This PSU looks not really trustfull

A printing diameter of 180mm is the largest you can get with the Anycubic without hitting the belts. However it requires spacers on the outside of the ball joints in addition to the ones on the inside.

Metric system... lol

Thank you for the video. Leveling the bed is not the easiest thing. Can you tell us how to add the auto-level and which one you would recommend?

Do you have a link to the bracket parts for the bed?

I have installed the same heated bed on my Anycubic Kossel Delta printer already, but I do not use the glass, Instead I used mounts already available on thingiverse that fit in the same place as the existing glass mounts raising the heated bed about 5 to 8mm above the frame. I have cut my cork to the size of the heated bed and fixed it to the Ali side of the heated bed, laid it in the frame and trimmed around the mountings, so it would lay flat on the mounts. I fitted a 30 amp PSU with brackets to the outside of the frame laid flat, then connected the 5 Amp and the 11 Amp inputs on the board as one is for the machine and the other for the heated bed. I fitted the corked heated bed Ali side down in the thingiverse mounts. Then I stuck the build plate to the heated bed red side up. Did my calibration and its been working great ever since. As for the mounts being loose on the rails for the X, Y & Z I just tightened the single screw on each assemble and there is no slop what so ever, so for now I'm not fitting linear rails.