The "Kossel Evolution" - The Fastest New Printer From Yesteryear 

Well that's the cool thing about hobby 3d printing, you start with an ok printer and you slowly transform into an amazing one

great job, i own the plus model. I never saw mine going so fast, but it thrills me to give it a try as soon as my duet2 board arrives. Thank you for your honest and critical aclaimed videos.

Alright, you've talked me into it... My first 3D printer was an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus and I still use it regularly over OctoPi+OctoPrint. I've just ordered a Duet board to upgrade it and while doing that I'll upgrade the power supply, fans and hot end heater cartridge to 24V. The original heated bed was actually a 12V/24V combo, so I can just rewire it for 24V. I've been toying with rebuilding it upside down as well (so that the board, steppers and limit switches are all close together), so might as well do that at the same time. Also, the play in your linear rails doesn't happen on my KLP. I guess Anycubic did the right thing and sourced quality rails and sliders.

This is great, thank you. I actually picked up a used Linear Plus and have been working on getting it setup. What you said about the 8bit board stopping it from being able to print at Delta speeds is so true. I'll be taking your advice on board and it might be time to swap to RepRap.

Could we see a Benchy printed at a spot near the outer diameter of the printable area, versus one printed in the center?

Great video. My linear plus is apart for v6 clone replacement. I already have akr1.3 installed with marlin 2. I need to check out klipper for turbo speeds.

Your presentations feel like lectures in a graduate school. Extremely useful, without belaboring points. Great resource, thanks.

Awesome. I just ordered from AliExpress a Duet2 Maestro, hope I can plug and play it in my Anycubic kossel delta linear plus. 6+ years, and now I want to upgrade it a little. I suck at adhesion so nowdays, so that is my big problem. Great video!

I recently got my first delta printer, and I must say, Klipper firmware is awesome for these! I had no trouble setting it up and it has this "enhanced delta calibration" process for great dimensional accuracy.

I have a Kossel linear plus build upside down (so controller box on top) running Klipper on a RPI3 with the default board, I can highly recommend this setup as it removes the pain of turning the system around whenever you need acces to the board. Planning on installing a MIC6 build plate on it for science. Running klipper also reduces the cost by a ton vs a duet wifi. With certain types of prints you can really push print speeds above what is shown here on these things.

great video! Its giving me the inspiration to do this to my first printer as it is pretty much becoming a partout printer :P At the moment my Tevo Tornado is my only working printer.

I just scored a Folger Kossel 2020 Rev B on Craiglists for $70, new and unused (partially assembled, badly). And it has everything to complete! Will try to use Klipper and flash the boards first to see if I can get the speeds up before swapping electronics. Basically, this Rev B. has most of these things in this video (metal corners, uses ball joints instead of magnetic balls, 12V 260W PS, exact same heated bed, etc), except the rails - the rails were on Rev A. but for Rev B. they went to the 2020 wheel versions. There's no play in mine, like he showed in this video though. Parts cooler mod first.

Hello! It is so satisfying to be able to follow the whole history and mind flow of the Delta printers evolution and the process of improvements. That is a real learning experience for me. One can learn how to solve problems on it's own or how to approach problems. Now for suicide project - if I would like to build Delta from the scratch, i.e. print connectors, parts, using extruded profiles what would be Your advice for the design? I was thinking about Kossel mini (I need rather compact machine). Best regards!

I think you can buy slightly larger bearing balls to tighten up those rails. Or if any of them feel too tight, try swapping blocks with the loose one. I built a small CNC mill with dirt cheap Banggood rails, and some of them were too loose, while others were too tight. By shuffling around the blocks, I was able to get most of them just right.

Do you happen to have any videos or input on the He3D K200 printer? Thanks JZ.

Have you looked at either of the remote direct drive extruders? I've just updated an old Ultibots delta to the Flex3drive and am really happy with the system. Zesty Nimble is similar. Also, if you can score some Trick Laser ball arms you get all the zero backlash goodness without the magnet woes.

Thanks for your great video. :) I'm kinda a happy Ender2 user, though I need to go BIG now, I need atleast >32cm of z-height. I pondered a Anycubic Kossel until I learned I can't buy it anymore :P I thought about replacing the extrusions with 10-20cm longer ones to gain the extra height. Can you recommend this? Any suggestion which printer I should check out? I really have no clue about Deltas. I was about to order a Tronxy X5SA Pro, but here on RU-vid I found mixed rewies.... I wonder if I can get a similar buildvolume (~33cm x 33cm x 40cm) in any Delta?

Any thoughts on running a Delta with the the Duet 3 mini? I have a Kossel I'm thinking of upgrading and at $130 for a wifi enabled board it feels like a good plan.

Where can i get the .stl files for the magnetic joints? I searched his thingiverse files, but can't find anything..

im building a delta right now, im using a couple different designs an trying to combine them an the kossle mini is what i used for the corner brackets. did u model the effector yourself or did u get it from somewhere else. im using 10x3mm magnets an 1/2 inch ball bearings to connect the effector to the rods but im having issues finding a effector that uses the 10x3mm magnets but its looks like urs does if not it would be something i would be able to fix in tinkercad.

I started building a mini kossel in 2014, and I'm thinking I'll finally go finish it lol

Regarding that magnetic ball lifting out, would that be solved by lengthening the arms a couple/few centimeters? Seems like that would put mitigate whatever forces are stressing the joint. The trade of would be a bit less build height. I suppose you might need to mess with the firmware a bit, as well, so the board would be able to calculate the geometry properly based on the different arm length? Whatever. Just thinking out loud. You seem pretty determined to let this one be and just use it, which I can relate to. Re the Predator, I almost ordered one the other day but they turned out to be not in stock everywhere. No new units until June, from what they said.

If you increased the length of the rods (so decrease z-height) then could you avoid the ball popping out of the socket due to the decreased angle at extremes? Or is that not the problem?

I know you’ve been reluctant to jump into marlin, but I’ve seen that marlin can give you sensorless probing. It seems like you can use the sensorless homing feature to check the topography of your bed. I’d love to see that shown.

Great synopsis. Did you check the tension and calibration of the belt tension / scale? Small differences in their tension lead to different paths travelled - which, considering the complex trigonometry involved, can lead to the strange differences in build accuracy. BTW: What is Gensesis? It appears in the title catalog thumbnail image here. SCNR.

Great video! The problem with the magnetic ball end jumping out smells like a geometry issue, it would be interesting to see is there is distortion on any of those rails (maybe swap them around and maybe then swap them end to end to see if your error moves with a rail, or changes when you swap ends), it may also be interesting to replace them with some without slack which may exaggerate the error and make it easier to find. Other than that, that machine is fast and accurate, I can imagine you might even improve on that accuracy with the rails and ball end issue resolved.. But as you say, it is all a trade-off, that slack in the rails might just be providing some benefits at the moment. Well done though, more of the same, please!

so why didnt you buy the Duet Smart effector with strain gauge for ABL? would have neatened up the effector and less weight

Would you care to share the settings file for the board, and CUra settings? I would like to turbo my Kossel. Great work btw!

I own a Kossel right now that was never really printing like I wanted. I especially had problems with calibration and leveling. Then I saw tot video about the flsun q5 and wanted to buy one because it only costs 171 euros now. What would you do? Buy the flsun or upgrade the Kossel with a Duet board and other improvements??

I'd be really curious your thoughts on the Duet smart effector (for Deltas) vs. the BL touch.

would it be safe to assume that if say like me I dont own a delta printer...and I bought the aluminium corner bracket kits, and some lengths of linear rail from a maker shop, a few linear rails/guides, that i'd have most of the frame sorted for a delta printer minus the electronics and motion parts?

7:55 what you do there is you shim it with copper so tht the movement is gone. then even add a locking screw. This is how its done on lathes and they have to be much more accurate.

24v and flying extruder will make it so much better ....

Why are there two push rods on each vertex? I would think it would work better with a single push rod per vertex for a total of three instead of six. Otherwise, I really like this printer design.

The printer is not named Rockstock, but Rostock (Ros-tock). It is a city in Germany: www.rostock.de/

Is there a way to get the files you printed/made for this printer?

Afaik the effective printarea of a (standard size) Kissel is a17cm circle. Could be that the rectangle you print is outside of that are that's causing the incorrect dimensions of the part?

What happened to layerone that made atom and neutron delta printers.

I don't know if you're still working on this printer or if it was modified but you could try lapping the aluminium for a smoother surface to see if it work

Are you doing delta tower/radius compensation?

i have one of these and was wondering could it run with Klipper and a raspberry pi 5?

Ordered a predator yesterday. Maybe a qqs or q5 next.

Were those ball and socket joints magnetic, or traditional (mechanical) joints? I can't tell from the video. Just curious what you had here - eg when it separates, is it coming loose from the socket (and then rejoining), or is it separating the magnetically adhered ball + socket (and then re-joining). Best wishes.

I purchased this with the linear rails. It my first printer. Could not get it to work, boy was I pissed. I then purchased a Duet board a couple of years ago ( I think), but still have not installed it. I may just use the parts to build a different machine. That may be a better use of my time.

I'm new to 3d Printing. Fairly computer competent and very mechanically competent. I want to make parts for the RC Crawling Hobby and others. First small scale pieces, but my goal is to be able to design body panels as well as interior panels in fullscale detail to create a fully operational piece, with opening doors, roll down windows, opening trunks and hoods, working retracting ragtops, etc. A 3d Printer will make these things possible, but that is where I am clueless. So most items will be not too large, but body panels, etc. will get pretty big, especially if I make 1/8th scale items and larger, which I would like to do for 1/5th scale F1 Rcs. Anyways, that is the basic scope of my desired outcome. So which 3D Printers would you recommend? Some pieces may be as large as 24 inches in length. I could make them 2 piece to go together which his something I already considered, however, if I could, doing them one piece would be preferable. Looking forward to your suggestions. Also, I am not opposed to using 2 machines, one for the large items and one for the smaller items, where I could run the large one doubling out parts when not printing a large item. Lastly, I would like to print in high strength product. Nylon, Nylon/CF CF, or other similar tough products. Thank for any info tips and direction you may be able to point me in.

Wish I could configure stock Q5 to be 200mm/s fast

I'm shogun_nz from Thingiverse. one of the one's that with the help of others like Da Hai Zhu and MikeFuLU , I came out with a working version of Marlin 1.1.9 for the stock linear plus and agree with a lot of what you say. But I still think there is life in the Kossel yet. But it comes down to in at lot ways that many did not understand how the printer worked ( it's not and easy beast that one) and how to get the best out of it. Anycubic in the end was not much help towards the end in some ways. The later versions to my mind did not have good information to in the later manuals and being about 70% put together. Compered to the first of them when you did have to put the whole thing together But the manual was the key. but in some cases put me on the right track to sort out other issues to. Also Anycubic support did have issues with the help they did give. A good example and it did not just happen to me. But if anyone had a issue in the to hard basket. Someone would give them my e-mail address or send them over to my posting on Thingiverse. it was insane for a time till i had them up about it and it dropped off. But i do think next time around i will build my own Kossel using the modern tech as well but also using the old skills is also the key to it all as well. And the other thing is Yes I still get a lot of Questions about the linear plus printers to. Often it is down to the Trigorilla board they use and the first question I ask is what version of board do they have to start with LOL

At 4:57 it looks like the 60mm fan is blowing outwards, not on the board. It's probably not doing much due to an open frame.

Hey not bad, coming back to this video after a few years. I've got a Kossel Linear Plus with an ultrabase myself, and over the years I've managed to do feats of crazyness with it. With the original board (tri-gorilla 8bit) and Octoprint4a, I've achieved even higher speeds than you have now, by simply using corner braces, the latest marlin with input shaping, a 0.6mm volcano nozzle on a e3d v6 clone, and a new, lighter Resin effector. The magnet arms shake a bit too much I've found and you start to experience issues, they don't create the strength you need. In your video, I've noticed that you have quite a lot of shaking still. This might be the table, I'm not sure. You might go even faster with arm dampers Here's my upgrades for 300mm/sec+ print and close to 450+ infill with near zero difference in quality from 60mm printing at stock (using PLA+ or ABS on a 0.4 nozzle). I approach the FlSun 400 on this old hardware, I'm loving it. You do need to tighten the bands now and then. Latest Marlin, with status sending on and input shaping for resonance (2.1.2) Pickleball feet, thing:3080467 e3d v6 (Volcano too) with 5015 blower, clone e3d hotend, teflon bowden tube: thing:4329200 Corner Braces (ironically found these work better than the larger ones): thing:2811848 Dampner: thing:2793833 Very sturdy table, lots of PID and input shaping.

Do I have to be a patreon member to get that test stl? Is that your design? I can't tell if it's yours or a thingiverse thing.

fun fact, delta style printers still ghost (spring in the belt causing ripples in the print at sudden direction changes) however! because of the relationship between the belt and the xyz axis on a delta printer, the ghosting appears as circular ripples at an angle to the layers. you can see them in the example you showed. tighter belts & adjusting acceleration/ jerk will reduce them. but ya deltas are great. the Only issue i have with them is that dual extrusion is a lot harder to do well. here's my deltas: imgur.com/gallery/PAoU2 & imgur.com/gallery/zFaEW

DID you ever investigate klipper?

Have you done any work with the Flsun Kossel Mini (www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/flsun-3d-kossel-delta-diy-kit). I bought this printer about 3 years ago and haven't really used it as much as I wish I could. I was thinking about upgrading the board like you did with your other Flsun printer.

The Patreon link in the description has your channel/name misspelled so it takes you to a 404 error... You have it as designprotoTYEPtest .

Flsun has a qq kossel now.

Where were you able to keep your stepper motors quiet?

Have you got any social media accounts we can follow you on?

Good video but I'm pretty sure another channel called teaching tech copied some of your and makers muses videos. Idk if this is a known thing but it's kinda odd.

What's a Gensesis?

Shoutout for the great comments. Well done, everybody. 🥳

It saddens me to hear a Kossel is basically pointless (11 months ago qparently) I have always wanted to build one. I guess core xy is the new meta.

This prove fast has nothing to do with new I can’t believe this look completely stock 4 days ago.

i just watched video about teaching tech and i am unsubscribing it and never watch again. i know its nothing, but i agree with that that is unfair that some cover band (dude) stealing credits. please continue to make videos, you rock!!! and 1 more thing: he talks like a robot without any emotion. :)

Looks like total shit, crosshatching, impressed with speed but speed isnt worth it if it looks like shit.

I don't know if you're still working on this printer or if it was modified but you could try lapping the aluminium for a smoother surface to see if it work