Anycubic Vyper Esteps Calibration 

I don't have a raspberry pi or Octo print. How do I calibrate my e steps? Thanks

Great video... Another write up. Number 1k. Congratulations.

can't even begin to tell you how much this helped. You're super appreciated man!

Super helpful for a noobie, like me. I appreciate you taking the time to make this.

Great video Bob your really helping the community

Your videos helping me soo much in way of problems. Thanks!

This is really helpful, thanks for posting from the UK - have subbbed!

Great video Bob, simple, complete !

Soo helpful! Thank you so much!!

Nice! Thank you so much!!!

You are amazing. I am that literal kind of person this helped a lot. I will have to learn that program but it makesore sense now. Could you show a benchy or string test with your setting? I use two other programs, but I like the control/directness of this.

The reason for disconnecting bowden is because e-steps is a mechanical calibration, it is only to calibrate the extruder gear ratio to the motor step size, it has nothing to do with the flow through the nozzle in any way.. Pushing filament through the nozzle is FLOW and is calibrated in the slicer.. The slicer needs to know the mechanical calibration, it is the slicer which calculates speed of filament feed based on that and the resistance/ pressure in the nozzle from the filament diameter, nozzle size, and size of the required line in the print. If the mechanical e-steps calibration is wrong then all the slicer calculations are wrong to some degree. Your method is much better than many, in fact nearly ALL I have seen, as you are setting a LOW speed of 50mm per minute when you feed, most e-step calibration videos use the menu on the printer to feed the filament and the menu entries purpose is to load and unload filament fast so it feeds way too fast for the hotend to be able to melt it and results in slipping of the extruder. Your method is MUCH MUCh better, feeding at 50mm/minute is unlikely to cause any issue with not being able to melt the filament fast enough, 30mm/minute would be even better to double safeguard, but in an IDEAL word calibrating WITHOUT going through the hotend is the way to do it for absolute perfection.

Awesome video I’m gonna take a crack at this in a couple days and see if I can check out what my printers doing. I went to put in a hardened steel nozzle, and it seem like it was excluding too much. It should’ve been exactly the same not really understanding that but I will have a look at the E steps and start there

very cool thanks

Thanks for info! my esteps were off. Might explain some issues I have been having.

Thank you Bob

Awesome Vid. Thank you!

HOW DO IT WITHOUT octoprint?

Are you still making videos? I was gonna send you a few bucks I haven’t seen any new videos in a long time or maybe you have another channel somewhere else? Let me know..

An easier way to measure out is to print out a part that is 120mm. I used Tinkercad and just made a 200mm flat part as I use 3dPrint Begginer's guide.

how do you do this without octoprint?

the link to the calculator does not work "403 Forbidden"

I see you use something called octoprint. What is it Do they make it for Mac Is it just software or hardware also If you could take baby steps for Older newbies. First video talk about octoprint and that installation

I just can’t seem to get to connect to my Mac computer

What about calibrating the Esteps for the XYZ axis?

Are you using windows or Mac I need help with Mac