Watched the instruction several times, ordered and received the purple spring, piston and seal cover. Measured about 85mm spacing between the two pan holes for the spring compression tool. Fashioned my compression tool from a piece of metal used to fasten a ceiling light to the junction box. It already had a center threaded area for the compression bolt, and carefully shaped the slotted ends to fit the bolts. Found a couple of long threaded 100mm bolts, and had to find the bolt to fit into the threaded center. Also, after much frustration, bought a real C clip tool from Lowes, Craftsman brand. Releasing the C clip and removing the cover found the purple spring broken in two places. Cleaned out the bore, and re-assembled the accumator with the original yellow spring, replacement new piston, new purple spring and cover, added more trans fluid, and it all works good ! Now I see transmission building pressure (observing the tach), the engine running cooler, soft shifting as expected, and the dip stick level providing ancipated accurate fluid level measurement. Although working upside-down, its much easier that having to replace the entire transmission.
Discúlpeme por favor por no hablar inglés. Pero aunque el idioma me detiene le agradezco infinitamente la forma tan explícita de su clase. Talvez por vivir en la frontera me fue más fácil entenderle. Le agradezco por compartir su paciente sabiduría y ser tan claro. Un saludo cordial desde nogales sonora México
is input shaft endplay question! I measured the distance from the intermediate sprag thrust face. The ford manual states I use the green selective washer on the pump. I don't have endplay. Is there any reason I don't have endplay in the 20 thousandths? the endplay may be in the 4 thousands but the input shaft does not jostle in the stator like yours can!
At the beginning of this video he said he was going to explain how to put the hard wire connector in the chassis but I watched the whole video and he never did it you go to the next video and it's already in! ???? Do you put the new chassis connector in from the bottom or the top?
I'm looking for the whole episode..so I can't seem to figure part 1 lessons1 . then finding lesson 2 in order .isn't happening other wise all the info is info is spot on if in order I'd be back on road .
Hey Jimmy, I only have about 0.004" endplay but does turn freely. My transmission is a 2006 4R75E which has a different pump spring than your videos. I'm not sure where to go from here.
@@shaunjulian8062 I'm just trying to help someone in the future, if you keep scrolling down there's some comments even older than these that say if you use the new blue teflon seals on the stator you may run out of endplay apparently but as long as everything spins freely you're ok i guess.
Outstanding video, I see from above about too little to no input shaft endplay, however what would you have to do if you had to much endplay? How would you correct?
Thanks for the videos on these rebuilds. Do you have any recommended books on this topic? I did purchase one from ATSG and was going to purchase the one from Haynes. Thanks again.
great video your an excellent teacher but have a problem after rebuild the trans works great but it keeps slipping in and out of od any suggestions ????
What would cause a delayed 1-2 shift after rebuild , 05 4r75w, in drive it wont shift till 3500rpm unless you let of throttle and will slip it you keep your in the throttle but if you let it shift by letting off throttle then get back in throttle it wont slip and also shifts better manually
Great video but I have a problem you don't address. I have done this procedure twice now and come up with no endplay of the input shaft. Upon disassembly, all steps have been done correctly. How do you correct the no endplay problem?
+John Jeans Hi John. As long as the input shaft will turn freely you'll be ok. I should have mentioned that if you install the solid blue teflon seals onto the stator support for the forward clutch, this can happen. Jimmy
