I just use auto iso and set a minimum shutter speed and a max iso value. It’s one of the things I like about Nikon cameras. They allow you to set limits so the camera plays within their boundaries and will not lower the shutter too low to where it’s a blurred image that properly exposed.
I use Canon Cameras and Aperture Priority for just about all of my gr. senior and model outdoor shoots. I use it indoors too, but not with my studio strobes, in the studio, for that I use manual mode. If you're outdoors and you need a higher shutter speed you can set your flash, whether it's off camera or on camera to High Speed Sync and I've done that successfully thousands of times. On occasion you may need to increase your flash (not your camera) exposure up or down to get the correct lighting, but I find it works well 99% of the time. Manual is good if your subject never changes position, and the light remains constant. For me that never happens so I use AP all the time, including event shooting..
I use Sony cameras and do exactly as you suggest, Aperture Priority, HSS switched On. f1.8 aperture is my normal, and Use ISO 100 or ISO 400 which is the Dual ISO Mode range on my Sony A71v. Works well except sometimes I wish I had a more powerful flash than my AD200 Pro, an AD600 would be better but much heavier to carry around. Please comment again if you have any suggestions, thank you
Once you get the hang of AP, it's the easiest mode ever for general shooting. I usually set my ISO at 400 default indoors or in the shade when shooting at f1.4 or f1.8, pretty much guarantees that no excessive motion blur will occur.
APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO! I'm basically a Manual Mode urban photographer in Chicago, but I can see why Aperture Priority is the way to go sometimes! Thanks again...
@hurleygreen927 almost 100% raw. With the advent of what Lightroom is now able to do, there’s just too much that I can do with a RAW image to shoot JPEG these days.
Aperture priority is my most used mode. Once you get the hang of its “gotchas” like any other mode, is enjoyable to focus on your subject and not on the camera. Thanks for another enjoyable video. Cheers
You forgot to mention "auto iso combined with slowest shutter speed" A lot of camera's have this option. And in a lot of situations, A-mode won't exposure right. Exposure compensation is often needed in challenging situations to balance background and foreground.
Cheers! another awesome video i’ve never used AP mode I started shooting in manual but once again and I’ve learned so much from your channel and yes I’m trying to become a better photographer and take better images thanks for sharing until the next one
I might be missing something, but I think you can also kind of run with both aperture and shutter speed priority at the same time by going manual and setting ISO to auto. Now you just keep an eye on ISO...
that's what I do. As I shoot a T7i I set a top auto ISO of 1600 and play myself withe shutter speed if I have to. ISO 3200 on my camera tends to be soft indeed.
Be easier especially if using flash that won't let you go over your cameras native shutter speed to set shutter speed and aperture to what you want and use Auto ISO as can easily denoise after. No point using AP if are worried about shutter speed not being able to go over native camera speed
sooo. question.. IF i was set on AP to shoot a wedding reception and my ISO is incorrect … my flash MAY blow completely too hot? is that a possibility? loved this. tyfys!
Would either auto ISO, and or, high speed sync being continually on, safeguard against the issue that you mentioned could occur if the shutter needs to be faster than the native flash sync speed? Thanks.
"It's due to lower shutter speeds when there isn't enough light to properly expose the scene. Higher-end cameras with image stabilization can handle lower shutter speeds without issues. However, for non-professional cameras, a solution is to set the minimum shutter speed to around 1/90 or 1/100. It's better to use this mode if there's sufficient light; otherwise, it's recommended to switch to fully manual mode."
Great video, subscribed!! A question: why does Canon 7D have black or white bars if shutter speed is below 1250 when shooting with studio strobes (Alien bees, 3 separate ones)? I know shutter is delayed when using studio flash lights with a DSLR but 1250 seems way too high, can't seem to find answers online. Trying to help a friend who is a total beginner. Thanks in advance!!
They SAY that the sync is 1/250 but thats faster than even my R (1/200) or Mk3 (also 1/200), .. have you tried backing the speed down to see if it fixes it? If it DOES, the shutter speed may be off a tad? Type of strobe shouldnt matter at all, the shutter determines if there is a bar. Camera may need a tech inspection for shutter speed, but personally, even though my cameras are rated for it, I don't usually push them to max sync speed because things are rarely 'perfect'... thanks for watching!
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk Thanks for taking the time. Yes, I told the guy to take it to Samy's and see if they have an answer. When we tried going below 1250 on shutter the bars start to appear. 1250 seems to be a sweet spot but then I have to crank ISO above 2500 sometimes and the pictures get grainy. Thanks anyway!!
Watched this great video but wouldn't the addition of Auto ISO help in this setting? Just wondering why it wasn't mentioned as an option. I'm just a newbie btw.
Yes, Auto ISO does help a lot. Modern cameras can handle relatively high ISO with little problem. It is also possible to reduce noise quite a bit when postprocessing. For example, I use DXO Optics Pro for most noise reduction. With my Canon R, shooting at ISO 1600 or 3200 works quite well. I've gone a lot higher than that on occasion. In general, it is better to get the shot at high ISO than not getting it at all. Also, it is worth considering shooting in shutter speed priority mode when things are moving fast. Aperture mode works best when you have a lot of light and a fast lens. With a slow lens, or a fast moving subject, controlling the shutter speed is often more important. There is no best mode. Different modes work best in different situations. I usually use shutter priority, and auto ISO, when I am doing street photo. In a studio, or when shooting outside using a tripod, I usually go manual with fixed ISO. Part of the reason why I prefer shutter priority to aperture priority, is that I live in Sweden, in Gothenburg, where it is often cloudy. Especially in winter time, using aperture mode would make the shutter times way too long.
I am just learning photography and have experimented with Aperture priority. I have played with the ISO with a certain degree of (luck). My question is, if you are shooting in the hypothetical wedding mode in Aperture priority with varying light sources, why not just set the ISO to automatic and let the camera choose the proper shutter speed?
The answer to that could fill a couple of videos but coondensed and extremely simplified; because while it might get usable exposures, the way it does it could create images that are artistically lacking or technically unusable for instance for printing because of noise and depth of field etc.
there is auto ISO maximum/minimum settings on my lumix cameras that would control the amount of noise when using auto ISO ...@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk
Absolutely yes, but considering your camera's ability to handle higher ISO. Find the highest ISO that your camera can produce usable images. Then set this ISO as maximum ISO in the Auto ISO settings, instructing the camera not to exceed that ISO. In my case, I'm using the R6 Mark II, and it performs exceptionally well up to an ISO of 12,000."
