Aperture Priority Mode vs. Shutter Priority Mode Explained 

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It kind of you to say. Let me know if you have any questions on photography or video production. I'm happy to answer them for you.

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I'm really happy to hear that you found the info useful. It makes all the work that goes into them worth it.

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Thank you. I appreciate the kind words. I have some free cheat sheets available and I'm currently re-doing the DSLR one into a full e-book then will be free as will once completed. It's about a150 pages currently with more to come as I have time to work on it. The courses mentioned int his video are no longer available, but I'm working on a new one that is partially completed on shooting different types of videos solo such as sports, weddings, tv commercials and others.

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I own a Sony a7iv. Are the cheat sheets free, or do I need to pay for them? Do you know when you'll be updating them? Thanks again!!

Thanks for watching. New tutorials every Wednesday. I have more tutorials on other camera modes here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4kvfRXfO1sg.html

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That is correct. A less expensive or a longer lens usually has a limited aperture which would affect these settings.

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Shooting in Manual is definitely the best way to go to achieve the look you want, but these mode are certainly helpful.

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Thank you very much! It is much appreciated. Welcome to the JCF tribe! I'm currently working in Europe on a project so I'm not posting to YT much, but I'm posting pic of my adventures on IG here: instagram.com/jimcostafilms/?hl=en

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I think that's a fair point. I do agree that I use manual mode more than other settings, but I'm also a fan of giving all settings a try. We pay a lot for the mini computers we shoot with these days. I don't like to let things go to waist and other settings do have a place/use in different shooting situations. Thanks for tuning in.

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It's an excellent intermediate step between auto and full manual modes.

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I appreciate you tuning in. Links are in the description for Camera and Premiere Pro cheat sheets on all my tutorials. I am currently updating them with more info and will be releasing the updated ones soon.

That's nice camera. I use Nikon and Canon myself. Thanks for tuning in!

Yes, they are a couple of my favorites as well.

I'm happy to heat that you found the information both understandable and useful. Consider using Sports Mode on your camera when shooting soccer matches. It might help. I discuss it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4kvfRXfO1sg.html

I used to have a T5 and that was the setting i used all the time, now i have a 7D mark II so I'm trying different things, so far I haven't seen much difference between fully Auto and AV or TV but since the situation chenge from one sec to the next for me is hard to really see the difference, portraits and family pictures are easier to see the difference, thanks for the link, i will watch it.@@jimcostafilms

@@ademosthenes4911 Since in Aperture Priority (Av) mode, you choose the aperture (f-stop value) and the camera provides the shutter speed needed to properly expose the image, Consider shooting sports in Shutter Priority (Tv) mode since you will be choosing the shutter speed and the camera provides the aperture (f-stop value) needed to properly expose the image. Generally, for shooting fast moving sports, a very fast shutter speed is needed 1/250th of a second or faster to prevent blur in the image. They this first to see if you like it better.

I have tried Tv and for some reason feel a lot more confortable using Av because i like the background more blurred that when i use Tv, thanks for the tip about the speed, I usually set it around 1/500 and I like the results, but I'm not even close to being a pro so don't think my pictures will win an award. Thanks for taking the time to answer and for your videos. @@jimcostafilms

@@ademosthenes4911 If you have any other questions, please ask away.

General Tips: Unfortunately, digital cameras hate moving. Most of the time, moving subjects register as a blur on photographs. So how do you shoot moving objects? Here are some tips: Shutter Speed When the subject is moving and you want to take a shot of, say a basketball player getting the ball on a rebound, then you should opt for fast shutter speeds. You should use a shutter speed that is at least 1/500th of a second or higher. However, remember that fast shutter speeds may result in underexposed photographs. Fast shutter speeds limit the amount of light that comes into your image sensors, so the higher your shutter speed is, the more likely that your pictures would be dark. This would not be much of a problem outdoors, but if you are indoors, you might need to address this. You can counter underexposed photos by using a flash, increasing your ISO or changing the aperture. Increasing The Aperture The aperture is the hole where light comes into your camera into the image sensor. Choose a low f-stop to open up the aperture and allow more light in. This will help you counter the low light you get from the fast shutter speed. However, increasing the aperture may lessen the depth of field of your photograph. What does this mean? It means that aside from your subject, a lot of the other elements in your photograph might look out of focus. A high f-stop can help you get the entire scene in focus, but a lower one such as f2.8 may make it appear like the whole background is out of focus. Use A Flash Using a flash with your motion shots is a good way to counter the low light conditions when using a faster shutter speed. It is extremely easy to correct dark photos by using your flash. However, most cameras have flashes that have a very short range. This means that you must be no more than a few feet away from your subject to benefit from it. For sporting events, flashes might also be a no-no as they can be very distracting. Use A High ISO Using a high ISO can help you increase the shutter speed and aperture of your camera without increasing the likelihood of getting blurry or dark photographs. However, using high ISOs can usually result in a grainy picture with a lot of digital noise. The secret to getting a sharp focus on a moving subject is to increase the shutter speed and correct the dark photos by using flash, increasing the aperture or using a high ISO speed. But for a more dramatic shot that captures motion, you could also try panning. Panning Imagine a photograph that shows the city lights with a trail of light from passing cars visible. To take this kind of shot, you hold your camera steady so that it could capture the lights from the city. As a car passes through, you camera will capture it as a trail of light. Panning works in reverse. Instead of holding your camera, you move - pan - it to follow the moving car. As a result, the car is captured in focus while the rest of the city goes behind it in a blur. Admittedly, this is easier said than done. You would probably have more success if you have a slow moving subject, such as a running dog or a walking baby. In any case, you would need to practice panning your camera in order to get absolutely beautiful shots. But how do you do panning? Go for a slow shutter speed 
Your shutter speed should be slower than what you normally use to take “normal” photos. Remember that other factors such as light and your subject’s speed will help determine just how slow your shutter speed should be. 
Because you are using a slow shutter speed, you should keep your hand very steady or else you will have a whole lot of camera shakes showing up on your shots. You can also use a tripod that has a swivelling head to help you keep your camera steady. Choose a great background for your shot 
When panning, the background will be blurred while your subject will be in focus. That does not, however, mean that your background would not be distracting. Choose a background with a single color or plain ones without distracting shapes. Pre-focus your camera on the spot that you intend to take your shot
For example, you can start following the subject when he or she comes into view at the end of the block even if you want to capture the subject when he or she gets to the middle of the block. You should set your camera so that the focus is sharpest when the subject reaches the middle of the block. Release the shutter as gently as possible to reduce camera shake
After you release the shutter, continue following your subject to ensure that the photograph looks smooth. If after all these, you check and see that your photograph is disastrous, do not lose heart. Panning requires a lot of practice and a lot of patience too. In fact, if you want to master panning, it may be wise to do so while in a busy street where you can have a lot of cars or traffic to practice on. Which Is Better Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority? Aperture priority keeps your aperture fixed and changes your shutter speed. This is great for those who want to have the same depth of field in their pictures. Shutter priority keeps your shutter speed fixed and changes everything else. This is ideal for action photography. Using aperture priority mode can help you take better photos without stressing you out. All you need to do is adjust your aperture and ISO. Your camera will experiment with different shutter speeds for you. This mode is perfect for beginners, portrait photographers, and landscape photographers. It’s ideal for you if you want to achieve a fixed depth of field without worrying about shutter speeds all the time. To actually answer your question: Almost all professional photographers who understand manual mode have certain set of steps they go through every time they take picture. Can you guess what the first step is? That’s right, they pick an aperture. The aperture you choose isn’t just some unimportant variable. It’s absolutely central to the photographs you take. All else, in almost all of photography, is secondary. Why is that? Well, the aperture determines how much of your image is in focus and how much of it is out of focus. Photographers have a term for this. They call it the depth of field. When you have a bigger depth of field, more of the image is in focus. When you have a shorter depth of field, less of it is. All of this has a huge impact on the photograph. Depending on what you’re shooting, you may or may not want to have a bigger depth of field. Let’s say, for example, that you’re shooting a close-up portrait out on a busy street. If you increase the depth of field, the background comes into focus completely, and it can be distracting. However, if you decrease the depth of field, the background becomes a blur, and the image appears more concentrated and visually appealing. Most of photography is about figuring this out. You need to develop an eye for certain scenes and the aperture that goes with them. Close-up portraits, like I said above, tend to work well with wide-open small f-number apertures. Large and open landscapes, on the other hand, tend to work well with closed off large f-number apertures. As the aperture closes, and the f-number goes up, the depth of field goes up as well. And when you want to get an entire landscape into the shot, it helps when it is entirely in focus. Therefore: Use Aperture Priority Mode

Are you asking how to set the ISO when using the Aperture Priority setting?

That is a great group of settings for max image control.

You don’t mention the make/model camera you are using so it’s not easy to answer. If you shoot with Canon DSLRs, for example, and want to use a Speedlight with your camera, it may be worthwhile checking this setting in your Canon menu: “Flash Sync Speed”. “Flash Sync Speed” - which is the fastest shutter speed that the Canon DSLR can shoot at while still synchronizing with the burst of flash from the Speedlight. In many Canons (depending on model), this Flash Sync Speed can range from 1/160 - 1/250. If your DSLR has a pop up flash, then you may notice that your shutter speed locks at the Flash Sync Speed the moment you pop up the flash when shooting in Av or P modes. This is because your camera won’t synchronize the shutter with the flash at speeds above this. SO WHY? Give this a go. Put your external Speedlight on your Canon DSLR and then set your shooting mode to Av (Aperture Priority). Turn on your Speedlight and look through the viewfinder as you test shoot in different lighting situations (eg. in full sun, in shade). If you notice that your shutter speed in Av mode doesn’t change, then Houston, we have a problem. The reason for this is because your camera has been set to lock the shutter speed to a particular speed (or speed range) when you are shooting in Av with a Speedlight on. FIXING THIS It’s an easy fix, but the option to fix this is not easy to find. Here’s how you do it. • Go to your MENU. • Select the SECOND camera tab (see image below). • Select the “External Speedlight Control” option. [1] • Move down to select the “Flash Sync Speed in AV Mode” option. [2] • If you have this set to the second or third option, it’s the cause of your headache. Change this too “Auto” - which means the camera will automatically select the shutter speed to suit the Aperture you set in Av mode. [3] • That’s it! Now you should see your camera changing the shutter speed to adapt for lighting conditions when you shoot in Av, even when you have your Speedlight mounted on the hot-shoe. If you use a different camera, let me know what it is.

@jimcostafilms yes my dear sir...my camera is CANON 5D MARK IV.....(thank you for your information) by the way I know about sync speed..always I using HSL Goddox speedlight

@@ahankiransullia3301 See if this helps: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UKUDFPMjcEk.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b0x0x49R6RI.html Remember: The flash needs to support working in Remote Slave mode (I am not sure of the name for this technology). Basically, when you set this mode and in the camera, you set the in camera flash to “Commander” mode, whenever you click the photo, if the in camera flash (the pop up flash) falls on the sensor in the external flash, it too will get triggered. One disadvantage of this method is that the on camera flash also goes off and thus, you cannot take good silhouette photos. Another issue is that the external flash needs to be relatively close and also the sensor should be faced towards the main camera flash. You can get a remote flash trigger. This has two parts, one part gets attached to the camera body, where you mount your external flash. The other part is attached to the flash itself, where it would have gotten connected to the camera body. Thus, when you click the camera, this sends out a signal for the external flash to get triggered as well.

Important Video Settings Selecting Your Resolution The Sony A7S III is one of the world's best full-frame mirrorless 4K video cameras. As such, you probably bought it to shoot 4K video. Even if you don't intend to shoot in 4K, we recommend shooting in 4K so that you can crop your video in post processing if necessary. To select your resolution, go to the menu -> shooting menu -> File Format. The resolution options provided are paired with a file format (aka codec). Selecting Your Codec The file format, or codec, you choose will determine how much your video is compressed and the bit rates you are able to shoot at. An uncompressed codec will take up more space on your hard drive, but it will also be easier for your computer to process as it will have to do less work decoding. So the more compressed your video is, the more time you should plan on spending in post. Here are the three codecs available to you when shooting 4K. 1. XAVC HS 4K - This is the most compressed codec and we generally don't recommend using it unless you need to save a lot of space and want to spend more time in post processing. It uses an H.265 compression standard that some graphics cards may have trouble handling. 2. XAVC S 4K - This is Sony's standard file type, and the codec that will suit the widest range of needs. You will be able to shoot 120 fps with this file type and vary your bit rates quite a bit. We recommend this file type for most video shooters. It uses an H.264 compression standard that should be relatively easy to handle with standard editing software and graphics cards. 3. XAVC S-I 4K - Ths is the least compressed file type available. It will be easier to playback, but it will also create large file sizes. It features a bit rate of 600M 10bit 4:2:2 at 60fps - that's a lot of data! Selecting Your Frame Rate and Recording Setting Your frame rate determines how many frames the A7S III captures in a second. A higher frame rate creates less motion blur in the shot and allows you to slow down your footage so that you can stabilize it. Higher frame rates also require more data and take up more space on your card. For underwater shooting, we highly recommend shooting at a high frame rate because the 3D environment that water introduces is exceptionally shaky. We recommend setting your frame rate to 60p or 120p if you want to shoot slow motion. In most cases 60p is fine and 120p takes up a lot of data. To set your frame rate go to menu -> shooting menu -> Image Quality -> Movie Settings -> Rec Frame Rate. After selecting your frame rate, you'll want to choose your bit depth and bit rate. If you are shooting Log picture profiles like S-Log2 and S-Log3 then we recommend selecting 10-bit 4:2:2 for the most accurage color gamut. If you are shooting the standard picture profile then 8-bit 4:2:0 should be sufficient for the data that you need. To select your recording settings go to menu -> shooting menu -> Image Quality -> Movie Settings -> Record Settings. Selecting a Picture Profile Picture Profiles are the reason to buy a Sony camera for video, specifically their logarithmic profiles. Log profiles preserve more data from the shadows and highlights of an image in order to provide better dynamic range and detail in a video after post production. Out of the box, Log video looks flat and ugly, but after working with your exposure levels and colors, you can get some amazingly detailed video. Of course, RAW video is ultimately the most workable video for post production and the A7S III does offer ProRes raw recording with an external recorder, like the Ninja V. To select a picture profile, go to your Fn menu -> Picture Profile -> PP1 -> Gamma -> select your Log profile. We recommend setting recording settings to 10-bit 4:2:2 if you intend to shoot with a Log profile. Recommended Picture Profiles Standard (No Picture Profile) - We recommend the standard picture profile if you don't want to do much color grading or post processing. Sony's standard picture profile is quite nice, but you need to be accurate with your exposure and white balance when you shoot with the standard profile. S-Log2 - S-Log2 offers the most detail out of the Log profiles with the least risk for introducing noise compared to other S-Log profiles. It is more difficult to edit than HLG or Cine profiles, but it can produce some of the best results. S-Log2 must be shot at a minimum of ISO 800. Try to use this profile in situations with a lot of light. We recommend overexposing your scene rather than underexposing. S-Log3 - S-Log3 offers more detail in the shadows than S-Log2 but it can be more difficult to work with and introduce more noise as well. S-Log3 must be shot at a minimum of ISO 800. Try to use this profile in situations with a lot of light. We recommend overexposing your scene rather than underexposing. HLG3 - HLG3 is our top recommended Log profile. It's easier to work with than S-Log2 and allows you to shoot at lower ISOs down to ISO 200. Cine2 - Cine2 is a good hybrid between a Log profile and standard profile which makes it the easiest Log profile to work with in post. This is a good middle ground if you want to do some work in post but not a lot. Quick Video Tips 1. Your shutter speed should be roughly twice your frame rate. 2. Your aperture should be f/13 or higher for wide angle video. For macro, if you want background blur than use a lower f-stop, if you want most of it in focus, use a higher f-stop. 3. After setting your aperture, adjust your ISO until the video is properly exposed. ISO in video can be moved higher than in photography. Shoot with auto ISO if you are in a dynamic lighting situation. 4. Set a manual white balance as described above if you are shooting wide angle video without video lights. With video light, match the color temperature of your video lights. 5. Use spot or center metering with video lights and matrix metering without video lights. 6. Shoot 4K@60 fps for normal underwater situations. For quick situations, shoot at 120 fps for slow motion video.

@@jimcostafilms thx al lot for these very useful information

@@ilkergur7003 I'm happy to help. Let me knowhow it goes the next time you go diving.

Very true. If a shot is bad I just delete it. I just returned from Europe where I took over 12K images with may 500 that I really like well enough to post to my IG. That would have cost me thousands to develop and print if it were back in my film days. Thanks for tuning in.

Ideally, you want to get lenses with the smallest possible aperture 2.8, 2, or even lower and the highest on the other end, say F/22, as these will let in the most light or least amount of light respectively and will increase your depth of field. However, you will pay for these lenses as they are expensive. The improved quality of your work will pay for the extra cost in the long run.

There are two camera modes which are useful for macro photography, depending on the type of photos you are planning to take: Aperture Priority - Useful when the source of light in your photo is the sun, or other ambient light, rather than a flash. However, keep in mind that it isn’t always realistic to do macro photography without a flash. Manual Mode - Necessary when using a flash for macro photography, or when shooting from a tripod under natural light (such as focus stacking several photos together). I recommend avoiding the “Macro” or “Close-up” scene modes that some cameras have. Although these are better than the default Auto mode, they aren’t flexible enough to deal with tricky macro scenes, especially when you are using flash. Also, do not use shutter priority mode for macro photography. You don’t want your aperture to change sporadically as you move in and out of shadows. It is important to control aperture for yourself.

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Thanks for tuning in. Try this solution: Aperture priority, often abbreviated A or Av (for aperture value) on a camera mode dial, is a setting on some cameras that allows the user to set a specific aperture value (f-number) while the camera selects a shutter speed to match it that will result in proper exposure based on the lighting conditions as measured by the camera's light meter. Use AV mode with the widest aperature your lens can do, f2.8 or f4, not f22. Control the shutter speed using the ISO value. A higher ISO value will result in a faster shutter speed. Keep the shutter speed above 1/320, but go for an even faster shutter speed if you can. Take a couple of shots then check the histogram for those photos in the LCD display. Try to keep the curve in the middle. If the curve is mashed against the left side of the display increase the ISO, it is too dark. If the curve is mashed against the right side of the display lower the ISO value, you are blowing out the high-lights. Hope this helps.

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That depends on your shooting situation, but it can work fine in the right conditions.

The favorite choice of shooter is pretty evenly split between the two modes. Thanks for tuning in!

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And that works wall for the type of work you shoot?

That's a fair criticism. Others have said it also. I listened to my viewers and I don't use background music any longer. This is an older video from about a year ago. My more recent videos no longer have the music.

I just checked it and it sounded fine to me.