Applying Aluminum Part 1: Surface Preparation 

Yes, the wing is hollow but the vast majority of the wing has been sheeted with balsa. At the 7:00 mark you can see on the bottom where there were a few panels I did have to add. This is minor work to do and then blend into the rest of the wing.

saves sanding and filling weave

Peel ply is more for epoxy resin applications. It helps to absorb the excess resin, prevent air bubbles in your layup, and get a more uniform thickness of epoxy. The byproduct of this is that there's less sanding involved too, which is always great. The main difference here is that it will not work with the sanding sealer/water-based poly I'm using here. You also do not gain much since the poly is WAY easier to sand than epoxy but also provides the same level of finish for the foil work ahead. Easier to clean up and use indoors too. If you need the added strength of the epoxy, then by all means use it. If you are just after a nice surface, this is far easier, faster, and economical of a pathway.

Don’t want to spoil part 2 for you but YES!

@@JoshuaOrchard Thank you for the quick reply. This method really interests me and I am interested in your thoughts about how this compares to glassing using Z-Poxy or West Systems etc. I much prefer this method based on lung safety, and cost savings as compared to the cost of the aforementioned products. Also, does one need to squeegee off as much of the polyurethane as possible like some folks do when glassing using products like Z-Poxy, etc.?

@@ripper9111 not a problem. Glassing with epoxy has its advantages. It creates a much harder surface and in general is a stronger finish. Some aircraft require this strength so it really depends on your application. I generally do not try to remove the WBPU (sanding sealer is the same thing) as a lot of the mass evaporates (water) as it dries. In the end, you sand down the surface using either technique to create a smooth finish and remove the texture of the wood grain. I personally use Fibre Glast Systems epoxy when I do use it. I'm not too picky on brands. The WBPU/sanding sealer approach provides the same level of surface finish but it is easier to sand as it is softer and the strength is not required for this application. It is also easier to clean up and not nearly as stinky if your shop is inside your home. Check out my F4U Corsair series as I use this same method of glass work but paint the surface as well as apply rivets and panel lines.

@@JoshuaOrchard Great! Thanks very much Joshua. I'll check out your Corsair series as well.

The process is the same, generally speaking, as any other mating surface. On this project I made sure to overlap so that the overage would end up on the bottom edge of the trailing edge of ailerons, flaps, whatever. Carefully trim with a razor blade or use manicure scissors. Once trimmed as close as possible, use the burnishing tool again to flatten out the seam. Hope this helps!

Joshua Orchard Thank you got your timely reply. I’ll try improvising your techniques. I was referring to the ends of the ailerons. I’ll keep you posted. Sincerely, Gary

@@garybrounstein7725 I gotcha. For the ends, I wrapped the surfaces first and did a 2mm overlap onto the ends. Then I applied a piece to the ends and trimmed the edges and smoothed with the burnishing tool. You can add rivet marks there to to dress things up. You still want a small overlap and that was the cleanest way I found to do it but if you find a different way, keep me updated!

Joshua,, Thank you very much for your follow up reply. It’s greatly appreciated. I see what you mean. It makes sense now. I will practice on a couple of small pieces of basswood to simulate the trim tabs & keep you posted. Thank you for your generous timely response.!! Gary

Currently in the editor's hands :p