Looked an an earlier post. As a long-time drum-restorer and woodworker, you don't want to use white glue. The veneer is thin and the glue will bleed through it, making it impossible to finish that part of it. Contact cement is absolutely the way to go. Clamping it to get good compression is a good idea, but you don't need to leave it for several days or even several hours. Contact cement works like velcro - once it sticks it is as stuck as it's going to get. Leaving it longer won't make it stick more. It would be hard to explain via a keyboard, but I also wouldn't lap the veneer, as it's relatively thick. Instead I would make a butting seam.
Yes, I found that out about lapping - the hard way. Putting the heads on the 14x14 was a nightmare. Took much grinding and trimming to get a good seat. As I said in one of my replies about looking into white glue - I did that. It's not the way I would to go. Your reply added even more information to my desire to not use it. Thanks for your reply. It is much appreciated. I'm always looking for good information. Your name sounds familiar to me. Are you in a FB group? I follow a vintage MIJ and a drum restoration group.
Really helpful video. Would you not use white glue? Contact adhesive doesn’t give you much wiggle room. What if you get an air bubble? Thanks! That person who criticised your vid was wrong. 👍
You are correct about little wiggle room, so I made sure to get it placed correctly the first time. Getting the first end down was the most important. I wasn't overly concerned about air bubbles since I used the glue in a strip and not a full glue.
Thank you for this great video, this will help me when I do my kit. Couple questions if I may. First did the veneer change the overall sound of the drum and second it has been over 3+ years, how are they holding up? Thanks again!
Thanks for your compliment and thanks for asking. Glad it helped. They are holding up fine. The lugs and hoops add to its strength and adhesion. As far as changing the overall sound, this was one of two MIJ kits I have. My original kit is pictured in my avatar which I still have and record with. Back to the sound. Just about anything you do to a shell could have some type of sonic affect, but with MIJs it's negligible so I can't really answer that directly. If you assure a tight fit to the shell, it shouldn't change the sound much. When I say this, I'm just guessing, but adding wood instead of vinyl wrap should/could warm up the sound. With sound, there is a video I did of a cover of the song "Wipeout". I'm playing all of the instruments, but the drum sound is from the kit pictured in the avatar. I changed the mic set up by removing the bottom heads and recording with the mic inside the drum, but I don't remember if I did it that way on this song or if it was done from the top. The snare isn't my MIJ, it's a Ludwig Supra though. If it's not there under my name in this video, it's under the name vernsson.
Thanks. I appreciate your input. If I do another kit with veneer, I will look into white wood glue. It makes sense. My thinking when I did this is that I would place the seam under something that would hold it more securely. In this case, it was where the tom mount would be placed. That, along with the lugs and hoops, would help hold it into place. We'll see.
I was the guy who put veneer on many furniture products at a cabinet shop that I used to work at. If applied correctly... contact cement will ruin whatever you try to remove it from. It's exceedingly strong. So I 100% disagree with whoever told you that white wood glue was better.
@@footnotedrummer exactly; I have been using contact cement for years without a problem. Use paper-backed veneer and always a section at a time--wait at least 30 minutes for glue to dry. Use a fresh glue--old glue will not apply smoothy--you can't have lumps--it must brush on like smooth paint, otherwise you will not cover correctly. celticpridedrums.com, check under construction. My wood or plastic has never lifted or bubbled. It takes time and smooth application--contact cement works very well.
I didn't. This was my 3rd drum with 2 more to go. I did have a slight problem with one of them though. It was the bass drum. It wasn't warping though. I didn't continually pull the wrap around to be sure it was evenly seated and ended up with a loose section. The bass drum hoop and the lugs helped. Veneer can be hard to work with. Especially with red cedar like I am using. Knot holes can be a pain. I was patient and kept pulling the wrap around before doing the final gluing - except that one.
Just saw your post. I'll have to get back with you on that. The link I saved was on another PC which is defunct now so I will have to do a search to see if I can find the place. Who knows if they are even still business after the Covid stuff. I do remember that he had a lot of different veneers in stock. About 15 years ago, my daughter and I did cedar veneer wrap on a 3x13 snare drum. I got that veneer at Lowes. I learned the hard way to not use oil based Poly on it. It darkened it so much that it no longer looked like cedar. On the drum in the video, I used Polycrylic water based poly for 5 or 6 coats then used the oil based poly over that since it wasn't bonding to the wood. Worked great.
I noticed a "thumbs down" for this video. I wish they would at least give a reason for their opinion. It may help me in the future for other videos. Or maybe they are just a troll who hits the button with nothing else to offer.
With all my respect and just because you've whished so, I will allow myself the freedom to give you some constructive criticism. I am aware that this is your first attempt for making an instructional video, though "video" is not the word that fits best in this case. Apart from that, the text animation is pointless and just makes the instructions hard to read. Narrating would have been much better. The process is not too complicated, yet the shown pictures do not represent it consistently enough. The music is nice, but in this regard adds no value at all. In general, much more effort should be put in order to make this useful.
@@scopchanov Thanks. That is helpful. I chose to do my video this way because so many "voiced" instructional videos I have seen are too "wordy" and I skip through most of it to get to the meat of it anyway. The process of installing a wrap to a drum does not take 30+ minutes of video to explain. I don't know if you are a drummer seeking info on applying veneer/wrap to a drum or not. If you are a drummer seeking information, let me ask you this. When you were done watching the video, did you have a general idea of how to do it? If you did, then my video was a success. I assume you are my 2nd thumbs down then. I respect that, too.
@@MichaelDBauer I am a drummer with decent woodworking (amongst others) skills. Over the years of playing (more than 20 to be exact) I have done several repair/upgrade jobs to drums belonging to either me or my fellow drummers, including damaged shell repairation, repainting and rewrapping. However, I didn't have the chance to work with veneer yet, so I was looking for an idea about what could be different and worth knowing. I did indeed get that idea, though from another (shorter) video, which contains an actual footage (instead of animated photos) and represents the process much more consistently. It also shows the finished product. Here is the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AnkH35Z_h4k.html
@@scopchanov Thanks for your reply. You are person I need and like to know. My drumming goes back to the late 60s, but my use of veneer goes back far less - within the last year because I couldn't find a vintage wrap that suited me. I like the video you posted. What he did was something I wish I had the skill to do, but I don't - at this point anyway. His idea is something that bounced around in my head in the past, but I didn't have the skill to do it. As far as damaged shells, re-wrapping, etc, I have done many repairs myself out of necessity. I didn't really have any other method of making those repairs aside from thinking about them and deciding what might actually work and what wouldn't. In one of my photo/video frames, you can see what happened when I removed an old wrap. The shell split. Without knowledge of how to fix this problem, I just used reasoning. I glued it, put it in "traction" and hoped for the best. It worked. The kit I am currently restoring is really in horrific shape. I truly appreciate your input. If you have any other information or links that would be helpful, I would appreciate your input. That's how things are accomplished for all of us - with accumulated and shared knowledge.
@@MichaelDBauer As far as repainting is concerned, my favorite are these series: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IFDKugRnvss.html They are rather long, but show the process in full detail. And here is one video about recutting bearing edges with A-B comparison of the sound before and after: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fwDzuZIdtmg.html. I wish you a nice day!
