This is my review of the APR Performance tune on my Porsche 718 Cayman S. I go in-depth into the various features and give a real perspective from an owner with 2 years of experience driving the car with the tune on the car.
I had the same thing before the tune since the car was brand new. I wouldn't say it's an "issue", temps are just higher when its not in sport. Also even though technically it should only void the powertrain warranties I would imagine it being near impossible to get them to fix anything on their dime after tuning the car.
I have a 2020 718 Base. The guidance I was given given by my service advisor was purchase new ECU and have that programmed and put the original away. He did tell me upgrading the turbo would be a problem for warranty claims. I wanted to do the Pure Turbo. I haven't had any issues getting work done on the car under warranty.@@allenstevens
For the temperatures, I have a tuned 718T with a downpipe, and observed the same: Normal mode does not pop and bang while the sport does bang and pop, so I assume the extra fuel injected helps to keem the engine colder. I have the sport + mode that does not pop and bang, and I ll check if I notice a higher temperature. If so, it is definitely linked to the added fuel uses for the pops and bangs.
I never really even thought of that being a possible reason why the temps are lower that’s a good insight. I thought it was possible that because the valves are closed more often in comfort it could be that the heat isn’t escaping as efficiently as it could with the exhaust flaps open. Update me on the temps you get on sport + I’m interested in the results you get!
@@allenstevens no, it s not the exhaust valves because in comfort mode, I drive with the valves open just for the sound to be louder while being in comfort mode and the temps are higher than in sport mode. I ll tell you about the sport + mode. Take care mate!
The cooling system in these cars is pretty advanced… I’m not the biggest fan of what it does but that’s what Porsche had to do for emissions. In normal mode, coolant/oil temps are higher for emissions purposes and efficiency… the cooling system uses a variable water pump, electronically controlled thermostat, and multiple vacuum valves to control coolant flow and control the engine temps for faster wamp up and better fuel burn… you have probably noticed how fast your engine warms up to 194 degrees Fahrenheit. So basically the cooling system is only using its partial potential, as necessary. Running in Sport/Sport+ mode will drop temps and force the cooling system run at its full potential. Another caveat, the temps you see in the gauge cluster are not actual temps, they stay at certain temperatures as the actual is within a window, check with a obd tool for actual temps. I’m guessing Porsche did this to keep the average person from freaking out when their coolant temp is at 220+ daily, so they just show you 194 instead 😂
Just wanted to give you a heads up on why the temps go up when you close the sport exhaust. The closed exhaust builds backpressure and that builds heat and it shows more in an engine that is boosted by a compressor more so than a natural aspirated engine . Get the 3rd radiator setup, local dealer or Suncoast Parts, it will help keep things cool when you push the car; not just for track conditions. I reside in Florida and have a 2nd gen 987 Cayman S with quite the list on performance mods and a tune won't give you much like it does with a boosted engine application.
Amazing, thanks for the explanation. That makes a lot of sense I appreciate you taking the time to explain that for me. I will definitely look into a 3rd radiator set up. I think it would help out with the temps a lot. Thanks again!
Hey Edgar I appreciate your compliments. I’m running Pirelli P-Zeros right now and they are the tires that came with the car. I haven’t run into any issues and am quite happy with them. I was thinking about upgrading tire compounds to something stickier next time around but I haven’t worn down the tread on my existing tires yet so I haven’t dove deep into the subject so I apologize I don’t have the experience to guide you through that. I know the Michelin PS4S’s are popular as well so I think I would look into those as well. I wish I could help you more😬 I wish you the best of luck and let me know what you eventually go with!
Hey man, where in KY are you? In one of your other videos I heard you say that’s where you were. Anyway I’m in London KY and I have a cayman S and I’ve been debating this tune, love the videos! Also where in KY did you go to get the tune uploaded? Edit: you answered this never mind lol
Hahah sounds like you found the answer but in case anybody else is curious. I live in Union KY right below florence. I got my tune done at dubwerx in Cincinnati Ohio. I recommend the shop I think they did a good job. I know there is an APR authorized dealer in Louisville but I have never used them so I can’t really speak on them.
Hmm, I'm currently searching for a Boxster S,...the right one. I'm currently in the "BMW" tuning world,...and this "APR" thing is a great find,...as it allows me to expand from the 981 Boxster search to the 982 Boxster search! Thk you vm...
Couldnt rely on APR, they were not very professional when it came to dealing with my 16BS. Ended up going with a local tuner who got same numbers @ lower cost. Shop around, theres plenty of good tuners able to do the work. Also think these cars are still being tuned conservatively.
That’s a great idea. I’m in the Cincinnati area and tuners were coming up with outrageous numbers, APR was the more economic option for me in my area. I plan on going with a local tuner when I do some additional aftermarket work on my car though.
@@allenstevenswatched your video, but remind me again what did you pay for your APR tube again, in total with labor include, not just the staring $899? Edit: I just re, re watched it, and it was just a little over $1k in total, got it.
Ya their customer service even as a buisness leaves room for improvement we are still waiting on them for a few things but their tunes are top shelf. We run them on all her cars except her 718 which has tunable software.
@@allenstevens the soft Tronic tune allows for multiple maps right? That’s the only drawback I’ve heard from the APR tune is that you can’t run an E 85 tune and a 93 tune.
No engine issues so far. The car has 9,500 miles. I’m not worried about anything in terms of longevity. Nothing has raised a flag although I do not push the car hard every time I drive. It may be a different story if you track the car every weekend though.
Quick thought. Let’s say you have an issue you want to deal with under warranty ... count you till back the tune and go into the dealership with standard settings?
With my options the 0-60 stock is 4.0. I haven’t tested 0-60 in my own car but others with the APR tune report around 3.75s for 0-60. Quarter mile time after tune is also around 11.67. These numbers aren’t from my car, they are numbers I’ve found online from others with similar mods and APR tune. I hope I can get a draggy soon to test times on my own car.
Thanks for the info. I haven’t been able to find any real number. Apr isn’t suppling either. So that’s why I was asking. Not many apr tuned caymans on the tube
@@user-wr3tf1jj7v nope not many at all. That's why I'm trying to get some videos out, I think people would really find the information valuable. I'll try and get some times for my personal car and post them on here in the future.
Nice car. Can you toggle or stalk switch this APR tune on and off? I am thinking it would need to be off prior to getting smog in California. Otherwise this is a no brainerrr I want :)
Thank you! No not that I know of unfortunately you can’t toggle it on and off. It might be something you can talk with APR and your local APR authorized dealer with about though. I live in KY and they are very lenient. But maybe you would still pass smog as long as you keep your cats in place.
I do have plans to eventually. I just haven’t looked up enough information on it to see if I wanna pull the trigger on it yet. I will update my channel once I do it and tell you guys what I think.
No way that’s terrible! Did fluids leak out? I’ve seen people do that but I always just thought surely that wouldn’t happen to me… I might have to do this after hearing your story. Sorry to hear that man😐
Just because PPF is expensive. My car is a garage queen and I have never taken it on the highway. I have a Rav4 as a daily. Since it only comes out during the nicest days and I don’t go sit in traffic behind cars I’m usually on the backroads with no cars ahead of me. I want the ppf but it’s not cheap and considering what I do with the car I don’t think it’s a requirement. If I drove it everyday in traffic on the freeway I would say it is required to keep the car in good condition though. I want it, just expensive to get is all.
Auto start stop does not hurt the car, and it also does in fact lower emissions. You can have a preference to not use it, but making baseless claims like it’s bad for your car or “who cares” about emissions is kinda wack. Emissions are the reason this platform won’t exist in a few years, or gasoline sports cars at all.
Auto start-stop lowers emissions, but saying it doesn’t hurt the car is false. Starter motors do wear out over time, and so do the batteries powering them. I'm not saying it's directly hurting my engine. It's just a fact that start-stop does result in some wear. Modern cars' start-stop systems have improved since the 70s, but that doesn’t mean they are entirely harmless. These aren’t baseless claims, and it’s not just a meaningless preference to not use the system. There are valid reasons not to use it. What's wack about who cares? I sure don’t, and emissions are not why the platforms won’t exist anymore. It’s the government coming up with policies when many people are already happy with their gasoline cars.
Up to 75% of engine wear occurs from starting the car. Go to any BMW/merc/audi/porsche dealer and talk to their service guys about start stop. I know of a C43 engine that had to be replaced after 25k (under warranty) miles since the owner kept flooring the car from red lights with auto start stop on. The explanation that I was given: the crankshaft and camshaft lubricants stop circulating which result in metal to metal contact as the oil sinks, all of this made worse by instantly putting the engine under excessive stress.
@@KAHOLICSBOT Beautifully explained sir. I appreciate the more in depth explanation behind the reason why it damages the car. The oil not lubricating the initial mechanical movements under load is definitely cause for some wear and tear.
