With a bobbed hammer I HIGHLY recommend a titanium firing pin along with it and the benefit of both the bobbed hammer and titanium firing pin is reduced lock time which can be extremely important if you are looking for extreme accuracy.
Thankyou for a detailed video w/side explanations, great job ! JP spring kit and anti walk pins on oreder. You know that you have an AR Guru when they have a bottle of Siracchi sauce on the work bench !
If your pins are walking out you need to put them in with the grooves in the right place. You may have out of spec pins or out of spec pin holes. Anti walk pins are fine if things are out of spec just a little. The foam ear plug tip is really helpful so thanks for that.
Nice informative video. I have the JP light springs on order thanks to your recommendation. Now I just have to find my grinder cut off blades and get to work. I have already polished all contact points on trigger group which made a big difference in smoothing out the pull, but did want a little light pull. Thanks again for the info.
If your pins are walking out on a GI trigger you did not have the legs of the hammer spring resting on top of the trigger pin. I am betting the hammer spring legs were resting on the bottom of the the receiver.
Thank you for the comment. I have built a few AR's and have had many triggers in and out. The grooves in the pins are for the springs to ride in. Only once did I have a pin walk on me, and after inspection I saw that the spring was on the floor, not the pin. But that's my experience. I imagine that if the pin holes are misaligned or slightly too large that pin walking could also occur.
Awesome man! Glad you found it informative. I'm trying to figure out what kind of content people prefer. If you want to see more DIY stuff like this, let me know, or if there's something you always wondered about and think a video will be helpful. Always looking for good content topics and ideas that can help people out.
@@TheBrigandBob You know how Lehigh Defense and Underwood has "fluted pistol rounds"? I wonder if there's a way to add flutes on rifle rounds without jeopardizing the rifling inside the barrel. Extra fluid displacement from a x39 would be devastating even for a thigh or groin shot.
@@minhquinn439 I'm sure it's doable, it's just not something I can see any real benefit to. 5.56 rounds move at extremely high speeds. Unlike pistol rounds, which expand on impact to maximize effect on target, 5.56 breaks apart and fragments when it hits soft targets at high velocity. You're not really looking for that expansion out of rifle rounds, though, there are some heavier hollow point rifle rounds out there from a few manufacturers that are designed to get that kind of expansion on impact on a soft target, but that's not really the strength of the 5.56. There are a lot of 300 blackout rounds out there that are designed to expand on impact, as that round is slower moving, and bigger and heavier. But unless you're making your own ammo loads, I wouldn't really mess with grooving bullets or anything like that as you're likely to do more harm than good.
@@TheBrigandBob I just wish they made 77 and 85 grain 5.56 soft point or bonded rounds. Instead of just match bullets. I also like those Norma rounds where the first half of the bullet expands and the back of it is sealed keeping the weight to keep moving through. wish they made Speer gold dot 77 grain 5.56 that would also be cool.
Haha! Thanks man. Yeah, there are a lot of good spring kits out there, took me a minute to realize if I didn't bob the hammer I would get light primer strikes.
Just came across the video. Sounds like a fun idea and I want to try it. Any idea how it might affect a cmmg 22lr conversion kit? I frequently shoot with 22lr due to how cheap it is, but don’t know how this mod might affect the way the trigger interacts with the BCG of the conversion kit. Might have to just try this mod and keep a spare milspec trigger handy for shooting with 22lr if it doesn’t work. I’ll report back eventually if nobody knows. Nice tutorial.
Why would you want to use a lighter hammer spring? The hammer spring and trigger spring work independently of each other. A lighter trigger spring is what I use on my 556 AR with the mil-spec hammer spring. for 7.62 X 39 I use a heavier hammer spring, lighter 4.5lb trigger spring, enhanced firing pin for steel cased so I have no light primer strikes. Instead of polishing the surfaces I just use a thin rope to pull back the hammer and a piece of silicone at the bolt release area so the hammer does not slam it. I repeat that 100 times and the trigger pull is 3.8 lbs.
I was also wondering why you would put lighter springs in and then... cut off mass on the hammer. Just the spring change will alter the feel of the trigger. But, taking away mass from the hammer does nothing except increase your chances of a light strike.
Actually if you watch the hammer while you pull the trigger you will see that the trigger is further pulling the hammer back putting even more tension on trigger. Lowering hammer spring tension in addition you will see reduces pressure
Trust me man, I wanted to. At the time I made this video RU-vid was taking my videos down and hitting me with strikes. I was trying to post without getting dinged, but still keep it informative.
Have you tried one of the adjustable hand gaurd screws that preloads the trigger a bit ? Looks like it works pretty good so long as you dont adjust it to far .
I did. I have to say, I wasn't the biggest fan in the entire world. It's a neat idea, but, honestly, at that point, I'm just going to buy a nicer trigger. Part of the problems with an adjustment screw like that is you have to find the optimal position of the screw, and then try and lock it into place. It's a giant pain in the ass, and it introduces yet another failure point. A really neat concept, but not the most practical thing in the entire world when put into practice. BUT, it is one of those things that looks good until you try it. You only notice these problems when you try to implement that, otherwise it SOUNDS like a great idea.
😂 It's gun lube, there's a video on the RU-vid channel School of the American Rifle where he uses the same hot sauce bottle for some gun lubricant he mixes up. I'm betting this guy watches SOTR too.
Yes. I have a weight gague that I use to test all of my triggers before and after replacement or modding so I can see the difference. The lighter springs from JP Enterprises really lightens up the pull and break quite a bit. You have to bob the hammer to ensure that the reduced tension doesn't result in light primer strikes. By removing mass, you ensure the hammer still travels fast enough under reduced tension to ignite primers. If you don't bob the hammer when using light spring kits on a factor trigger, you WILL get light primer strikes.
The increased hammer speed is worth it even if you do not do springs. Reducing lock time is very conducive to increased accuracy. A titanium firing pin is also one I highly recommend.
