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Arcade ADITL - Donkey Kong Repair Man?

Jacklick’s Arcade and Tech Repair Journey

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Word got out that I can sometimes fix these things. A friend of a friend dropped off a non-working Donkey Kong and we go through fixing the major stuff in this video.
Best Video Arcade Game Test Tool ever made!!
craftymech.com...
All replacement parts acquired from mikesarcade.com
00:00 Intro/Overview
04:20 Measuring Voltage at PCB
05:00 Testing Monitor/PCB in Cabinet
07:50 Fixing Marquee Light
10:22 PCB on Bench Sound Issue and Repair
15:15 Monitor on Bench HV shutdown
18:02 CRT Tube Restore
20:40 Cap Kit, B+, HV and Horz sync fix.
29:00 CP stuff and back to PCB Sound Fix
34:23 Back in Garage Game Working
38:35 Play some Donkey Kong

Опубликовано:

17 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 33

@SpyderBDM 2 года назад

This is really cool. Love your attitude regarding restoring classic machines and keeping them alive.

@jacklick 2 года назад

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the kind comment.

@WinrichNaujoks 3 года назад

Super nice and instructive video!

@jacklick 3 года назад

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comment.

@lqqk3r 3 года назад

Great DK repair video. Should be good for another 39 years.

@jacklick 3 года назад

Thanks 👍

@MattyMosArcade 3 года назад

Wow, that board is pristine compared to what I see everday.

@jacklick 3 года назад

Yea, this DK has lived a decent life. Not much humidity or corrosion.

@MattyMosArcade 3 года назад

@@jacklick Nice find for sure!

@gitgeronimo9375 3 года назад

Very nice video. I just bought a couple arcade machines and I know nothing about electronics. I’ve never been one to tinker, nor have I had any interest. I feel like I’m the only person who is into arcade games who doesn’t also have a full electronics workshop and an electrical engineering degree haha.

@jacklick 3 года назад

Congrats on your recent acquisitions and thanks for the comment. FWIW, I don't have an electronics background nor an engineering degree. If you have patience, a willingness to learn and are not afraid to ask questions or make mistakes, you will be on your way! I didn't even know how to measure voltage or spell TTL when I first got into the hobby. Best wishes on your journey!

@n.h.s.a.d.m. 3 года назад

Nice work! Huge improvements all around.

@jacklick 3 года назад

Thanks! Amazing what a new CPO and T-molding will do.

@bondscalper 2 года назад

excellent !!!!!!

@jacklick 2 года назад

Many thanks!!

@senilyDeluxe 3 года назад

Awesome repair! That 8035 is just an Intel CPU. Pretty common, easy to get, ROMless, so no worries. I would have suspected that capacitor pulling the DAC's output to ground, though. But well, it works with a new DAC so it wasn't the cap. We have a DK at Arcade museum Seligenstadt that has the same exact glitches. Turns out, the board starts glitching at around 4.9V, so if you measure 5.0V at the pins of the edge connector, likely if you measure the chips, you will find only 4.8V or something and then it glitches. And yes, I used to hide Mario behind these glitches too. Then I rewired some of the connections (the cabinet must have at some time been converted to a completely different game that has been converted back to DK and there were THREE adapters between PSU and circuit board - I had 5.2V at PSU and 4.7V at the ICs...) IDK DK starts glitching at relatively high voltages... I once had a Joust run at 4.2V with no graphics glitches. Sega Vic Dual went unstable below 4.5V.

@jacklick 3 года назад

Thanks for the comment and sharing your experience. I didn't get to the bottom of the glitching but power was the most likely culprit and change between bench test and cabinet. Will have to file that away for next time.

@WinrichNaujoks 3 года назад

Yes, the glitching is definitely due to low power. The power on these DK boards always go really low when coming through the edge connector. I have three boards in my cabinet, and I'm switching between them with the Vector kit, but a lot of power gets lost and I end up with only 4.8V on the board. If I connect the original DK PSU to the board via the pin connectors as well, would that be a silly thing to do, effectively powering the board with two different power sources? I don't even want to try it if there's a danger of frying the board...

@katilynnschwab2485 2 года назад

Here it comes Jacklist

@jacklick 2 года назад

@drummindog 2 года назад

Is it your experience (or perhaps anyone reading this) that Sometimes when you jump over a barrel (perhaps near a ladder) that it doesn’t register the points? Do I have a common issue?

@jacklick 2 года назад

Well, I don't know about points as my eyes are not fast enough to check score, but there are definitely times where you jump a barrel and no sound is heard nor graphic of points shown.

@waynegram8907 3 года назад

I wonder why the arcade monitor would go into high voltage shut down when the B+ voltage is set to a wrong B+ voltage. At 100vac the arcade monitor would shut own because the B+ voltage was set wrong. Also did the two different DAC's IC chips sound different or they both sounded the same?

@jacklick 3 года назад

The B+ wasn't just set wrong it was unable to be adjusted with the VR and actually looked to be rising until it maxed out at @ 130v. The B+ powers the flyback which generates the HV (higher b+ = higher HV) there are other factors but keeping it simple. The xray protection ckts are monitoring the flyback voltages so when it exceeds a threshold it shutsdown the b+ power supply. the xray protection ckt shuts down Horz Osc/Deflection (not b+ power) which also feeds the flyback.

@waynegram8907 3 года назад

@@jacklick I'm not sure if all arcade monitors have Xray Protection Circuits to monitor the flyback voltages to shutdown the B+ power supply. The Flyback Transformer will output a B+ voltage to the Monitors Tube. The B+ voltage is coming from the flyback transformer. If you look at the deflection boards on arcade monitors they use NI Non Inductive Resistors which are a white block size resistor. I'm not sure why they used a Non Inductive Resistors because its for the H&V Horizontal and Vertical for the monitor.

@jacklick 3 года назад

@@waynegram8907 B+ voltage does not come from the flyback. It comes from the monitor chassis via the AC power and powers the primary winding of the flyback.

@waynegram8907 3 года назад

@@jacklick The monitors AC power is 120VAC. The B+ voltage is from the flyback transformer TAP output. I thought most schematic will show the flyback transformer having a TAP saying B+ voltage.

@jacklick 3 года назад

@@waynegram8907 sorry this is incorrect. B+ is created from the AC power IN via rectifying diode bridge, voltage regulator, filter caps, etc). Also the 20EZ monitor in this video is 100VAC inbound. The fly back has a primary and secondary side. The primary side is powered by the b+ and creates multiple output voltages from that. Including a lower voltages (not the HV) that are easily monitored zener diode for xray protection.