My notes: www.iforce2d.n... Radiolink Mini Pix: goo.gl/cpHjem hobbyking.com/... www.radiolink.... ardupilot.org/... ardupilot.org/... ardupilot.org/... Video about camera shutter trigger: • PWM shutter trigger se...
Hi @iforce2d, great vidoe. thank you for sharing! I'm one of the maintainers of ArduPlane so if you have any questions about flying ArduPlane let me know! ARMING_RUDDER=2 to allow ARM and DISARM via rudder FBWA mode is manual throttle. If you set throttle to zero, it falls out of the sky. If you use FBWB then it's speed/height based. throttle in middle means maintain current altitude. The flight controller figures out whatever it takes to do that. throttle all the way up/down means raise/lower altitude, speed will be maintained automatically to be within ARSPD_FBW_MIN/MAX and will cruise at TRIM_ARSPD_CM (in cm/s). General rule: if it flies good in FBWB, it will fly good in AUTO and RTL. As far as the funny pitch reverse. It was probably that you reversed the wrong aileron and then reversed the pitch in two places to make up for it. Keep in mind that "MANUAL" is a passthrough and there's 3 places to apply reverse (for better or for worse). Transmitter output, ArduPilot RCxREVERSED (the input) and SERVOx_REVERSED (the output). Your hardware problems are related to "you get what you pay for". There is a huge variety of hardware available and you've selected pretty much the absolute cheapest option. I highly suggest getting quality hardware. Faulty hardware is a huge time sink. What is your time worth? The cost is not that much different compared to the whole cost, not to mention if it fails in the sky and you scrap the aircraft too. If you get pretty much any other hardware you'll be able to use normal latest-release versions of Mission Planner instead of their Chinese version. MANUAL mode is not required, it's just forced in the GUI for people new to it. You can override it by setting FLTMODE6.
Hi Tom - was it you talking about running Arduplane on a very small wing and a CC3D mini or some such hardware recently on Gary's podcast? I was looking around for more info on that but couldn't find any... btw the pitch reverse thing happened with both multirotor setups too. I noticed that when I changed the 'reverse' checkbox on the radio calibration page, it would affect the value of SERVO2_REVERSED in the full parameters list. I think servo2 is elevator by default so for a conventional plane, reversing it would indeed have the desired effect of reversing pitch, but imo it should simply reverse the commanded rc input. Anyway for the third and subsequent setups I made absolutely certain I didn't twiddle with that checkbox and simply reversed pitch in my radio, and I didn't have any more trouble. Maybe it's a quirk of this non-standard firmware.
@iforce2d yes, I was in the video but the work was all done by Andrew Tridgell (I was sitting next to him). Check video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x8nQoEPrCTc.html
@ Tom Pittinger I have a question can I still use arduplane in an apm 2.6 I have been trying to set up my apm 2.6 can't calibrate compass for some reason tried uploading older firmware. Can you please help me
gregatex I doubt Tom will help you with APM boards. They are more helpful if you buy the expensive so called branded pixhawk boards they usually won’t help if you are using so called knock off boards. That’s all good and well and most can appreciate that but not everyone has the cash to spend on a $400 pixhawk.
gregatex if you are using APM and pixhawk purchase from eBay or Banggood you are pretty much on your own on figuring out how to get it working. Just a heads up.
Thank you! This is very helpful! I am setting up my first airplane with a pixhawk and your videos have been helpful. I have not flown it yet, but I think i am getting close.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Just going through final stages of build using Pixhawk in a Mini-Talon airframe. The Mini-Talon can be difficult to launch so was planning to do an initial launch in Stablise mode to help with the hand launch to get in in the air before switching to AUTOTUNE. I hope this is the right decision!
I dunno if you would want to launch in stabilized mode right from the start like that - probably better to get it a couple of mistakes high in manual mode before testing any autopilot features. These days I do use stabilize to launch though, it really helps with the big plane, especially after I set up a mix in my radio so that when I flip a switch the pitch stick will be held fully back. That way all I have to do is throw and then quickly raise the throttle.
Yes, I tried auto-launch. I don't really like to depend on the accelerometer and GPS when my hand is near the prop, and it takes up a mode on my switch (unless I set the mode with ground station but that means I need to have GS available and I can't set it from my radio). The switch-mix method leaves everything fully under my control, and I don't need to set a specific launch height or the launch direction. During flight it can also be handy sometimes to use the switch to do a long climb.
The stablize mode actually worked out well for me this morning. I dialled in about 40% elevator as well which is activated on a switch on the controller. Using this method allowed me to get the model in the air and gain vital altitude. This method gives me the necessary few seconds to get my hands back on the controller after throwing the aircraft. I was able to pop the aircraft into AUTOTUNE mode and do some tuning. Its a fascinating experience flying an aircraft in this mode, watching it learn. My only mistake of the day was to attempt a landing in FBWA mode. I decided to abort the landing only to find the aircraft wouldn't climb quick enough, so I had to just cut the throttle to ensure it landed near ground level in a tree, rather than several meters up in woodland. Time for repairs before the next test flight.
Good to hear - well, apart from the tree landing :) You'll probably find that FBWA helps with landings too, just as long as you keep in mind that potential inability to do a go-around.
@@iforce2d Well I was unable to get any gps lock on initial startup, and was on my own able to disable the internal gps, and enable the external, and instantly got 10 sats, write params, ...so simple. I have numerous f3 and f4 sp racing fc's, and have 'never', been able to get them to be seen by either cleanflight or betaflight, for whatever reasons, be it usb driver, or other, I find those softwares very exclusive, and very much the result of a n internal understanding of a programmers mind and not instantly user friendly to 'just anyone' who wants to use them. That said, I'm not getting Radiolink Missionplanner to see my Minipix on My Pc Tower, I am on my laptop. So, the joys. At least on the laptop I'm mobile.
Hello, I just started with the hobby. But i am facing a problem with servo output in missionplanner. I have a FlSky fs-i6 radio and Pixhawk 2.4.8. In missionplanner at radio calibration all the channels change when I move the sticks on my radio aswell the throttle. But when I go to servo output nothing happens when function throttle is selected. When I select RCin3 the servo output does change. My question is how to get throttle moving asswel because I need this to let my rover drive autonomous.
Thank you for the videos about the radiolink mini pix, after seeing these I decided to get one. I'm going to install it into a mini talon, just hoping vtail mixing is available in the software. I'm also going to try to install a micro minimosd by flashing it with the mavlink version of the available software. (did that a few years ago with the full minimosd witch was connected to a cirrus megapirateng board :-) ) Also going to try it with a crossfire rx, not sure arduplane is supporting crsf protocol. Thanks again ! EDIT: I just noticed you covered the minimosd part in a different video EDIT2: think i bought the last one :->
Hello friend ! I have a pixracer, and I'm not able to activate the servos, jpa I tried to do it with an external power source and even so it didn't work, I've done all the settings and nothing, it seems to me that the problem is in the signal. Everything is normal with escs! Greetings from São Paulo Brazil
Perhaps it's the 'arming check'. By default you need to press a hardware button to allow the motor and servos to arm. In the full parameters list search for 'arm' and there you can select which things you care about when arming. ardupilot.org/plane/docs/arming-your-plane.html
Hi Dave heheh good to hear. Unfortunately none of that video from my miniquad was recorded and I finally figured out why - my Xiaomi Yi that I had been using the same SD card in earlier had formatted it to something (exFAT) that the GoPro didn't know how to use.... :(
Hi guys! What is the simple settings for the glider? I need only three mode flights: normal flight, stabilization and back to home by GPS-failsafe. Ps. Mini Pix F4
Did you have lipo plugged into fc with USB connected to computer, cause my matek h743 wing fc radio calibration page, the bars don't move to tx stick input.
Wiring of what exactly? There is nothing out of the ordinary here, you can find some info at: ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-flight-controller-wiring.html
Hi @iforce2d i just try to configure an old but never used minipix radiloink i have an problem with volt and current sensor voltage look like ok but the current have bad reading i choose the same option than you i have the same card ! i reading one the plane with wattmeter and put the both value on Measeured battery voltage and same with current. have an idea ? thanks for your video
If you don't see the current value changing when you run the motor, it could be that the current sensor in the hardware is faulty (one of mine was). But if the current value does change with motor speed, then you should be able to adjust the 'amperes per volt' value so that the current output value matches your reading. It will never be super accurate, only an approximation.
@@iforce2d thanks for Ur Reply i see but i do the same way i do with my pixhawk but i have the wrong value for Amp the current stay the value if i put Reading 3a and save the current when i cut engine don't decrease.
Hey - I can see that you are using FS-i6x as well. I always thought that telemetry system (such as blacksheep, crossfire) is connected directly to the radio - not the flight controller. I am running my plane with matek h743 FC board - how and where did you wire up that telemetry to the FC ? UART ? how the missionplanner/inav will know that is a telemetry ? I can also see that the telemetry you are using is discontinued, any suggestions on different hardware that may work with i6x ? Thanks
Yes, UART. When you connect the FC to your computer to change settings, it uses mavlink protocol over the USB cable. Think of this telemetry module as doing the same thing, but wireless. Mission Planner doesn't need to know if it's wireless or not. Plenty of information here: ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-telemetry-landingpage.html ardupilot.org/copter/docs/common-telemetry-port-setup.html
How do you save the autotune? Mine doesnt seem to be saving. Do you need to put it on its own switch and land it with the autotune active and then disarm to save the settings like you would on a quadcopter??
Great informative stuff Chris and nice documentation. Thanks much! Still waiting for a (larger) Pixhawk module + bits from BG and I'm hoping they broke the database because all of these parts are currently missing from my orders. Hey, is that a Mayatech folding prop? I have a 10 x 6 which may be a bit too large for a 'gold' Turnigy motor.
Hey mate, awesome video - Did you have to change any parameters for the compass with us being in the southern hemisphere? Have tried absolutely everything and the compass still seems to be quite off with its heading.
I don't use compass on planes. I do use it for multi-rotor of course, but Ardupilot seems to figure out the magnetic declination automatically and I've never had to deal with it. If it seems to be a multiple of 90 degrees off then maybe the orientation is just wrong. You can change that in a parameter somewhere. Some orientations might expect the compass to be upside down.
I just put one on a few days ago so I might cover it sometime. Guide is here btw ardupilot.org/plane/docs/common-minim-osd-quick-installation-guide.html
When you say "pitching down" do you mean when you move the pitch stick on your radio, or when you hold the plane and pitch it up and down. If it's the stick, reverse the stick in your radio (or on the radio calibration screen in missionplanner). If it's when holding the plane and moving it, maybe the flight controller board is not mounted facing forwards...
@@iforce2d i mean when holding the plane and pitching it up and down. FC is installed facing forward, in Mission Planner in the HUD i can see correct the roll and pitch.
Will be interested to see what range you get out of the telemetry radios. You can get 500mwatt versions but the standard 100mwatt versions should be ok to out over a km
I went out to 3km this morning, did a full circle there at about 90m altitude and the RSSI displayed in the artificial horizon view stayed over 90%. I don't know how that percent number is calculated though, because the telemetry log shows the RSSI to be about half of what it is when close by. www.iforce2d.net/tmp/sunriserssi.png In any case the link seems to be performing very well.
No particular reason not to use a compass if you have one. Some people disable it to stop the annoying warnings if they didn't calibrate it properly, but I would hardly say that is "normal practice". Using GPS only may not be sufficient to correctly detect direction in very strong headwinds.
To connect the 3DR telemetry transmitter to the miniPix I used some pre-crimped cables from Ali Express www.aliexpress.com/item/12Pcs-a-lot-6-colors-Pre-crimped-Cables-Pixhawk2-Pixhack-Pixracer-PXFmini-GPS-Telemetry-OSD-Ultra/32800824381.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.23b54c4d789l9U They have a crimp at one end suitable for the miniPix plug and the other for the 3DR transmitter plug. Just plug them into the appropriate plug. It’s easier than soldering.
Im going to try this set up again cause i use the one that i got from radiolinks page but cramp but wish me luck love your videos hope to build a wing this summer what would you recommend as a nice 150-200$ wing
Very helpful video- thanks. Could i ask what the range is like on yoir telemetry radios? I got some 500mW ones ... i would like to get a few km of range. Can you recommend and 3rd party antennas for the radios?
The $30-$50 100mW ones give me about 1km usable range. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dIvC4ZB88h0.html If you want a serious telemetry system, there is a place called RFDesign that sell them, but they're not cheap. store.rfdesign.com.au/radio-modem-bundles/ Recently I also saw some on Banggood that appear to be knock-offs of the RFDesign ones bit.ly/32lJm4W ah you're just asking about antennas, oops. I would expect the ones from RFDesign to be good. I actually have a RFD900x I but haven't tested it properly yet :) store.rfdesign.com.au/antennas/
@@iforce2d thanks for the information. Just by coincidence Painless 360 reviewed some of the rf design ones the other day. I think i might look to get a set in the future... but for now i will see how i get on with these. Thanks again for the information
Exactly what I needed for my FX-79 Build to conform my setup.. Seems I missed a few things... Thanks Chris. Would have loved to see you do a RTL..;) 21:30... which of the 2 compasses is in the GPS puck ?? Wouldn't the other would then be internal ?? 30:33.. Did you finally figure out why your wing randomly pitched down when you were turning ?? 33:52... You need to set the ARMING_RUDDER to (2) to be able to Arm and Disarm...
I don't know which compass is which. Recently I have been running with the second one disabled and it seems fine. I'm not completely sure of the reason for the pitching (not random btw, it was always at high airspeed) but after adding spars in the wingtips it is much harder to get it to happen, and when it does happen now it only pitches very slowly. I think the remaining problem might be my servos struggling a bit to hold the elevons in the right place.