Back in the 2000s the PSU vendors would straight up lie about the wattage. I remember a review of a Logisys PSU with an acrylic body that would melt when it was under load.
@@bibinsunny6935 Laugh all you want, it doesn't matter. Pascal-era GPUs can't do ray tracing anyway, mesh shading is literally only implemented in one mainstream title so far (Alan Wake 2), and VRS is still a very novel piece of tech. Even if a 1080 Ti could run DX12 Ultimate, most of its users would probably want to stick to DX11 anyway due to it performing much better atm.
Funny isn't the word I would use. Ironic. Sad. Absurd. Those are words that spring to mind. 90% of people building a gaming PC do not need a 1000W PSU.
@@Lurch-Bot yeah, I have 1000W, but I admit 850W or even 750W would probably have been sufficient. That being said 1000W model was only a little bit more expensive than 850W, so I went with higher wattage for future me's sake. I don't want to have to upgrade that PSU for like the entire warranty period which is 10 years
Im gonna do the same. um making a PC right now with a 3090 i got from a friend and i think 1000W gives enough headroom for me to make any future upgrades if i want to. @@xTRTSCx
BIOS flashback and debug LEDs are incredibly useful on motherboards. Either a 7-segment debug display or basic status LEDs to tell you if the system is failing to POST because of a dead CPU or bad RAM can save you hours or fiddling and testing different components, assuming you even have a secondary system to do component swaps.
5 месяцев назад
It is really a shame how these basic features are now more or less on premium mainboards only.
@ At least the basic debug lights seem quite common, but BIOS flashback and more detailed error codes kick you firmly into the above-$200 range. For the cost of a 7-segment display it's rather absurd. I don't know how expensive BIOS flashback actually is, but seeing how an entire SBC costs less than $15, I can't imagine it costs that much to add.
You can get a post test card for $40-50 and it can be used on numerous machines. I'm not going to pay $400 to get one built in to my MB when I really only need a midrange MB that costs $150.
Debug LED's and displays are great to have. But usually only come on higher end boards these days. Surprisingly, almost every board still has a speaker header that's rarely ever talked about, or even used anymore.
@@yellingintothewindWhen I was picking my motherboard, I knew I wanted an ASUS board, but the only one that had the 7 segment LED Q code readout that I wanted was the Crosshair VIII Hero, which was like $400 retail, and even on sale, that's ridiculous that it costs that much just for something that used to be much more common on cheaper boards. Hell, even the new X670-E boards that have Q code is absurdly priced.
Print your downloaded ram and physically install it inside your pc to make the upgrade twice as effective. This is a fire hazard and a joke. Don’t do this or reply with “great, you made me burn my house down”
I was under the impression that they tend to be fitted with just enough wattage for the parts they're built with, but generally they use good quality power supplies.
the hell with performance i dont have backache anymore like with the ancient office chair. i'll take that from a £100 chair (i may have bought a white gaming chair at less than half price that nobody would buy except me, because everyone worried about it showing dirt - but the principle stands)
@@davidhines7592 Yeah, good purchase. Anything that improve your health, comfort, and life quality is a good buy. Maybe you could save some money to buy "High-end" chairs like Herman Miller. They're better and more cozy than those gaming chairs. Their used price werent that bad. Thats all from me.
I have an 8GB laptop for browsing, editing documents, and occasional gaming with emulators and visual novels. Windows 11 has never used more than 6 - 7GB.
Going with quality is ALWAYS worth it and it doesn't have to be expensive either. My 7 year old rig that I first built still works to this day, my sister who doesn't game much or plays heavy titles uses it now and she's happy with it. All the way back then I already knew that you shouldn't skimp on some components like the PSU for example. I also ALWAYS buy a cpu with intergrated grahics for troubleshooting! Have had a couple of instances where I didn't have a gpu for different periods. Worth it! You can play lighter titles like Minecraft and Factorio on modern cpu's! :D RAM is also something I Never skimp on. I host my own game servers from time to time so 32gb is a must and nowadays I have 64gb 6000MT/s DDR5 kit. Worth it. Also I don't play EFT anymore but that f'ing game loves RAM. The faster and the more you have the better. 'Till a certain point of course. I hate RGB so I never bother with it. Also my PC is out of sight 24/7 anyway so would make ZERO sense.
Yeah, having a iGPU on my R5 7600 is definitely handy, RAM is cheap also, definitely worth it, 16GB of DDR4 costs 37$ while 32GB only costs 60$, 16GB of DDR5 costs 60$ while 32GB costs 96$, it's not like the price doubles, definitely worth it to get the extra RAM for stuff like EFT, servers, and Hogwarts legacy for example, that one gulps RAM also.
I just bought a GTX 560Ti for a retro gaming rig that is still going strong after 12 years and who knows how many owners. Your 1660 Super will probably be working long after it is obsolete. If a GPU lasts that long, it is probably free from any defects and highly likely to go the distance.
I recently bought a 1660 ti laptop (& 9th Gen i7). And I honestly use it more than my desktop with a rx6950xt & Ryzen 9 5950x. That GPU is more than enough for pretty much everything, I agree. Plus I can do it all in bed 😎
I got lucky and got an Aus Thor II 1000-watt PSU a couple years ago for about $150, brand new. The best way to go expensive is to look out for the deals. Almost every component I use, I did so only for the deals. The Asus Ryujin III-360 CPU cooler, I got it for $180, new. The Asus X570-I, I received that new for around $200. My Samsung Neo G8 4k 32 inch monitor was a little pricey at $800 new. Worth it though. The point I'm making is that you can often find top notch parts for almost half off, brand new.
Yeah, shopping the sales is a great way to go. Problem is most new PC builders these days have some very specific and inflexible ideas about what they think they need. However, I think one of the most egregious sins is wasting money on the lowest tier new GPU when you can have something that performs better for less money on the used market. And, with the sort of QC issues I've been seeing on new parts lately, it is arguably better to buy used, as long as the seller is reputable. A novice builder probably won't know if their new GPU is performing 30% below the benchmark averages like I did with my last brand new GPU. I returned it immediately but if you don't thoroughly test your components, new or used, you can really get screwed over. Warranties are nice and all but 95% of the time when I have to RMA a component, I go and buy a replacement because I don't want to be without a working PC for 2 months. Then I have to sell the warranty replacement to recoup my money.
Bought an EVGA GT 1000w unit a few years ago when it went on discount for like $120. (shortly after the glut of pandemic PC demand when sales tanked) I didn't really need it at the time. My 750W seasonic was fine. Then, my friend needed a relatively basic editing computer so I built him one with my 750W and used the new EVGA in mine. I eventually bought a 7900XTX, so I felt really comfortable in that choice.
My current build I focused heavily on a decently powerful, but also “No Dollar Wasted” rig and already did much of this kind of research and consideration, so it’s good to see it all consolidated into one video I can send people who ask me about it.
@@greatwavefan397Steam pre optimizes the Vulkan shaders on Linux, gets rid of a lot of studdering issues. Otherwise those shaders would be getting compiled during game play. So the more cores the faster it can compile the shaders.
@@NitheshVG734 Yeah but if you were playing old windows games like some of us, you'd be running a combination of 98SE, XP and 7 VMs to skip the hassle of trying to get the games running on Windows 10/11 And for those, the video memory in the VM software will get said memory from the allocated RAM, so if you're running a 7 VM with 8gb of ram allocated, then allocate 2gb of it for vram, the VM itself will only use 6gb. As you can imagine, running that VM on a 16GB Windows host is cutting it close.
@@TimmyInTarky if you want simple go with VMware Workstation Player, and run as a personal/non-commercial license. That way you can use it for free. It's the one I use in Windows to run my 98/XP/7 VMs and while the emulated gpu performance varies depending on the guest OS (the one in the VM), I can confirm on 7 if you lock the VM display to 1024x768, give it 10gb ram with 2 allocated to vram (already overkill for games made in that era or Vista), you can run Crysis at 30FPS maxed out. Yeah... It's powerful enough for that. If you wanna run more modern stuff your mileage may vary but if you're like me and looking for a simple solution that doesn't involve clogging up your desk with older computers to play old games, this is the one to suggest. What do you plan on doing with VM software? Can give some suggestions
For consumer PSU's, the power efficiency peaks at about 50% load. It's different for every PSU but for example a RM1000 (1000w) is 93% efficient at 400watts but is 89% at 900 watts, and at 50-100 watts it's 80-85%. Not only saves you energy, but it's less waste heat being created
After having my RAM turn out to be incompatible with my GPU due to a really weirdly unique timing issue, I started only getting RAM off the QVL instead of going for the crazy fast stuff. lol
yes, more of this, i like this exactly, because after a couple years some rules tend to change when it comes to guiding towards the right pc build at that time. nice
I remember playing Vice City on my 128 mb RAM Compaq laptop where the game occassionaly froze and went BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR for like 20 seconds before going back to normal. Good times.
Dual core type CPUs are pretty usefull in my opinion, lower powerenvelope in general while if you need high multithread performance they are pretty fast, as for idle powerconsumption its also great, so the heatsoak on the cooler takes longer and fanramp is minimixed or takes way longer so its less noticible.
As someone who's looking to build his first desktop I really appreciated this video and it definitely helped me understand some thing a little bit better. So yes I would really like to see a part 2 and idk maybe a part 3?... ;)
For CPUs though, you skipped "threads" specially since Intel removed it for some CPUs. So if strictly CPU 8 threads is minimum. (Note: 4 threads are still useable BUT only for basic tasks like office apps and browsing)
I did a major upgrade from a 2600X, 16GB RAM and an RTX 2060. To a 5800X3D, 32GB RAM and a 7900 XT. The CPU improved the 1% lows and the GPU lifted the framerate dramatically. The RAM just gave me a bigger buffer before calling on the SSD to help.
This effectively eliminates the misconception that more money guarantees improvement across the board. Performance is more about balance and understanding what you're using your PC for.
In the last few years I've also found it important to check the RAM you want against the MB QVL list. Used to be if you could plug in the RAM it would just work. Nowadays have run into times where that wasn't the case.
Doesn't seem to be much of an issue with cheap, slow RAM. But IDK about DDR5. It may be inherently more picky. I've only run into a RAM incompatibility issue once in the past 20 years or so and that was on a Core 2 Optiplex. In the old days (pre-ATX), you were limited to certain specific combinations of RAM modules.
Both Windows & Linux use unallocated RAM as a cache to boost performance. The benefit varies depending on what your system is doing, but there is a benefit from "more RAM than you need" (if your budget can handle it). Even with today's super fast SSDs, it's about an order of magnitude faster to access cached file data vs. reading it from the drive.
You forget to ,mention the power supply rating, something I learnt only a few years ago. If your pushing the performance constantly like gaming or visual work you should get a 80 plus rating of bronze or better! If it doesn't have a rating, skip it all together.
Intel is the only one with E-Cores, AMD uses regular size cores with less cache (i.e. compact cores) so you can cram more into the same space as full cache cores.
Forget modelling work... If you start a fluid simulation with openfoam you can kiss your ram goodbye and start resource hog your friends ram and cpu cores as well. I believe open mpi it was called.
I don’t think it’s good to running openfoam simulation locally. Perhaps a testing to see if runs. I think it is more important when analyzing with paraview, where your mesh is big.
Would be interesting about GPU's. I managed to get a 3060 with 12GB ram last year (as others were just too expensive and I just bought a house) and so far it runs every game on max settings.
1:00 above 32gig is also necessary for IT work because we need to deploy a lab environment with numerous virtual machines to learn and test things. And VMs are RAM hungry.
Small piece of advice, sometimes its better to save a bit more for the higer end motherboard in the same family, what i mean is that if you aim for a z660 because its enough, try and go for the same brand z690 and you'll get a smoother performance for a bit more money, its worth it
I had a gaming rig with a mid quality psu, some day when my brother was playing a game on it, It literally exploded. lucky for me no other parts of my rig got broken except that psu.
With the number of videos on this and the main LTT channel talking about virtual machines and containers, I’m honestly shocked at not calling out that use-case and developers as a reason for more memory. The focus on “content creators” in this section is a disservice to wider, more established communities that have practical use-cases here.
How did you do an entire quick video about the worth of pc parts without actually teaching us HOW to determine their worth by looking at price to performance and more importantly showing us how to compare the diminishing returns of expensive parts compared to budget or medium range parts.
They can allow for more powerful hardware acceleration for programs that have an option, like web browsers, social media apps, and some video or audio editors.
@@greatwavefan397 Yep, especially the video editors. But even for just playing video, the cpu will decode the video drawing much more power then a dedicated chip inside the GPU, this includes the iGPU as well if you have one.
For memory capacity, I love the freedom that having twice the capacity I would need for largest individual task. Having more means, simply not caring about leaving things open when doing memory hungry things. Its more about tool for multitasking. And with DDR5 having more than 2 RAM sticks will make your ram clock lower, thus adding more later is worse value than getting exactly two sticks that you needed in originally.
Having gone from a Asus ROG X470-F because the B-channel RAM slots died, to a MSI Pro B550M-VC wifi, which cost half as much, I can confirm there is no point getting a "higher" quality mobo. It handles a 5800X3D and the VRM doesn't go higher than 50c. When the mobo wants to die, it will die, cheap or expensive, it doesn't matter. What does matter is who is easier to RMA with. I never want to go through Asus RMA, if I can help it.
Installing lots of ram (32gb+) mitigates the memory leaks from installing multiple mods in your games (cough cough FO4). Instead of crashes every 10 minutes, it is every 2-3 hours, which is nice.
People playing FPS titles sometimes put Auto RAM cleaner to work along with gaming. It causes stutters for normal games, but for leaky ones... Well, the problem is "patched"!
Got a 14900KS, Strix 4080 OC, Corsair DDR5 6400mhz (32gb), Tuf Gaming Z790 Plus Wifi, Asus Thor 1200w Psu, Strix LC II 360 AIO, all in a Tuf Gaming GT 501 Case. It's beautiful.
Server SATA SSDs. Sweet spot is about 2x the price of regular ones. You get better handling of power spikes, power loss and also three times the amount of writes. The 1tb Samsung evo one have 700tbw, whereas the slightly more expensive server micron ones have three times that.
I would argue that PSUs are, or at least they were. In the 90's cheap PSUs were liable to explode. A lesson I learned the hard way when my PSU blew, and took my motherboard and CPU with it.
i think a good followup is WHEN to buy. Middle of last year was a great time to buy RAM and NVME storage. NVME prices started shooting up in January and now the 2 TB NVMEs I bought for 70 each sell for 112 each.
Yes, you should do explainers about cheap vs more expensive Keyboards, Mouse, GPU’s, Displays, and Storage (SSD vs Spinning Hard Drives for non-System Drive application as well as different types of SSD memory cell types for System Drives such as QLC, TLC, MLC, and SLC.
@@DaBombtasi it is but you can boil it down to most important factors that one night need to consider for specific needs cases for noon-enterprise use such as content creation, media library storage, backup/archiving, game playing, etc. They could cover storage as a separate topic vs keyboards, mouse, and displays.
I maxed out the data on that drive 1 time and despite samsung software saying the drive has good health, has never been the same. Where the drive just freezes or loses data while writting.
I spent a lot of time researching the best bang for my buck components without sacrificing longevity. It paid off nicely. I'm still rocking my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max MB, R5 3600, Asus 1070, Antec Silent case. EVGA 550w Gold PSU
My most recent system purchased last autumn 2023 is an Intel Xeon W7-2495X 24-Core, ASUS W790-ACE, 512GB DDR5-4800 RDIMM, ASUS ROG STRIX RTX-3090, 2x WD SN850X 4TB NVMe, 2x WD 4TB Black HD, Corsair 5000D Case, Corsair HX1200 PSU, Noctua CPU Cooler and Fans, Ducky Mechanical Keyboard, Microsoft Mouse, Dell Ultrawide 34-inch monitor, Mackie speakers. I also looked at the Intel Xeon W9-3475X 36-Core and ASUS W790-SAGE and faster RDIMMs and RTX-4090, but the much higher cost for those parts pushed my budget way too high.
3:50 Cores also matter if you run the same APP multiple times at the same time ... like 7-Zip to create ten 7z different files at the same time, each one for its own folder / subfolders set.
@@alcoholitto1694 They advertise whatever product their sponsor wants advertised. However, in this video, they made it a point to say that you don’t need a 1000W power supply. You should spend your money on a quality one, but not necessarily a high wattage one.
When it comes to a PSU, Wattage is less important than efficiency. I wouldn't buy anything less 80+ Platinum efficiency as 80+ Gold is still likely to fail these days.
Wait, i thought RGB was the most important thing in a computer. The more RGB the better right? Have i been lied to all these years? I'm crushed i tell you, crushed.
RAM: this might be controversial, but I simply buy the best frequency/latency combo that's still covered by the JEDEC specifications (and works with the CPU/MB combo). That also leads to always getting "naked" RAM sticks without any useless "heat spreaders" and/or RGB. No XMP or OC needed, they work OOTB 100% of the time. PSU: Enermax has a great web calculator where you simply select what other components you use and it spits out a recommended wattage. I usually take that result, round up to the next 50W tier and add another 50W as "buffer". For my last 2 builds that turned out to be a 600-700W PSU. Spending a few [currency] more for a model with a better "80+" label can be worth it if the system won't run at high load most of the time. MB: I usually pre-filter for the formfactor and socket I want/need, sort by price and then work my way up from the cheapest board until I find 2-3 that have all the ports/features I want. And from those I then pick the one that has the least unnecessary extra stuff (like WiFi...). That way I've so far always gotten boards that cost me
64GB is also pretty useful if you play DCS online. Didn't think I'd need more than 32GB RAM until I loaded up a DCS server and the game crashed. Turns out it can peak at over 50GB RAM usage as it loads a complicated mission, though it'll drop a little after you actually enter the server. _Why_ it can use so much RAM is a good question though; it doesn't really make sense to me.
And that’s how I met Supermicro motherboards. You can stuff 4 beefy cpus and 4 gpus with 1tb RAM on a single mobo that can be remotely managed via built in IPMI . All without vendor lock in.
Every time I build a computer for a friend I explain what they need for today and for tomorrow. They are surprised when I tell them not to buy the most expensive parts, but to but the parts that fit what their workload is. I end up saving them tons of money and they get a great system for what they need. Most of them are not gamers, developers, or content creators. Just want to browse the web, check email, and run some office apps. I do not have them "cheap out" on the parts though.
3:00 Undervolting can also increase performance, as a lower voltage produces less heat. This creates headroom for your chips to deliver a bit more performance while thermal throttling, or may keep you below certain thermal boost limits. But whats stable underload may crash randomly at idle. Test all kinds of scenarios!
I haven't even considered that. I'll have to see how undervolting works for my gaming system. I don't really play many games that really push my current rig.
@@ShadeKoopa Well, to get you started: In general bios of the motherboard is going to give voltage on the safer side and a lot of it. If you can find an option in the bios to treat your chip as 'typical' and try that, it can already save you so much heat and create headroom. If you have an intel system, intel XTU works well for me. Try the AI overclocking tool, and then reduce the power limits PL1 and PL2 to whatever matches your cooling. On the AMD side I prefer 1usmus Hydra over Ryzen Master, but you wanna find the optimal setting for EDC in PBO (you can find the max setting if you let the mobo decide on the limits in bios). And after finding a PBO setting you like, you can tweak Curve Optimizer, which is the actual undervolt (and adds more frequency). The 'downside' of modern chips is that you have so many cores and settings to test. Currently undervolting my 14700K after an overclock, and so far I know of 1 'weak' P core (-0.02V) and am still looking for the limits on the other cores (seem at least capable of -0.04V). Got a 7950X3D that is more efficient under full load, but will crash with the same CO settings on idle, because the chip boosts too high with too little voltage. So you end up changing only a few numbers at a time, narrowing down which core is at fault. The 5900X was much easier, since a WHEA error crash would just tell you which core was the 'faulty' one. Reduce CO on that core and test some more. Use OCCT for stability testing. You can tell it to cycle loads through one thread by thread - you can set it to halt on errors - and if it crashes it will show you its last state on next boot, allowing you to figure out which core crashed. Undervolting is a looong process though, since you need to test so much. Have fun!
You don't need the best of the best, but quality components are usually worth it. Though they are not indestructible either. My GTX 1080 from 2016 is still working like new and never caused problems. On the other hand, an Intel i7 6900K and some expensive Corsair RAM died on me after a couple years. The freaking CPU cost 1,000 bucks (that was shortly before AMD came back into the game to kick Intel's monopoly ass), but at least, Corsair grants a lifetime guarantee and they were switching out the RAM at no cost. The whole computer cost $3,500 in 2016 and aside from these 2 incidents, has always been working crazy reliable. I am a professional media creator by now, and that computer is still perfectly suitable for all my needs - including intense Blender work. Which was desired, buying top of the line components that were available back then. My current work rig is a 9900K with an RTX 3060 which is also working perfectly fine for a while now.
Also very important addition to power supply, many of cheap units have higher wattage, cause they can deliver more power on unnecessary 3,3v/5v rails, instead of 12v rail, which is more important, since it is used by CPU/GPU/Storage.
I usually pair motherboard with CPUs that handle the PCIE lanes. A GPU, m2 slots, sata, all add up. And while lanes may not be all used simultaneously it's annoying to have it throttle/split. I mean data hoarding is fun.
