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Glad to see such a welcoming community around 3D Resin Printing. It's definitely what got me into the hobby. You say "these settings would not work for a large scale model" but why not? Why not export the model once it's supported, re-import it, scale it up for transform and see what you get. I think the end result would be pretty surprising (although hollowing and drainage would be necessary)
I love how the 3D printing community is so damn wholesome. Greg's settings are amazing and I'm eternally grateful that he's doing the pre-supports for Artisan Guild. Resin printing is getting easier and easier thanks to creators like you, Greg, and many others.
@@UncleJessy So nice of RU-vid to include the emote ( 🤘 ) of the damaged hand that you did on that King Leoric when you pulled two of his fingers off..
Exactly! This is the course of cheap resins. They are like PLA when it comes to temperature. So, if you need a functional part such resins are no good! The TG is tooo low. But you validly made your point. Soften the supports under the hot water! Thumbs up!
@@dodobarbar If the resin is a lot more heat tolerant, turn to microwaved water. I think with the support tip ends at around 50C they should be soft enough pull easily. But yeah I've stopped using snips now that I warm by cleaning liquids to 50C. They may fall off pulling them out of the bath. It's magical.
Water emulsify uncured resin so if you wanna avoid cloudy or deformed/warped results, you need to avoid any contact with water whatsoever until the piece has thoroughly been IPA washed and UV cured unless your resin is water washable.
Love your videos, and it's so nice to see members of the community supporting each other rather than competing. It makes the whole hobby a better thing to be a part of. Thanks.
Great head to head Jessy! I’ve been using Greg’s settings with a ton of success on an Elegoo Mars. I’m going to agree with others and say you only need to add two more things. Checking for islands w/Photon Validator and soaking in *Hot Water* prior to support removal. You will be pulling complex support systems off with one hand wondering where this has been your whole life! And I bet you’ll be surprised at how many 10’s or 100’s of small 1-5 pixel islands you missed. Photon File Validator hunts them down with ease.
As someone who hasn't got a 3d printer yet, but is trying to get a much knowledge for when I do get one. Videos like these are great, I watched 3d printing Pros video and thought it was way too much work than it was worth. Now I understand better that it's actually preferable to do his way, especially if I'll be printing multiple copies of the same miniature/model/part.
You can adjust your auto support settings to actually so the same style of supporting. I use it on my minis and let them soak in alcohol for a few minutes to a couple hours. After they soften a bit the supports fall off and the minis reatain a bit of flex to prevent damage and they retain paint really well
For halot users and newbies: If you have a halot one plus Initial exposure 22 sec, exposure 1.9 sec, lift 7mm, bottom layer 3, light off delay 2 sec. Also if you ever have a problem with failures do to prints sticking to the fep. Use 3-in-1 silicone lubricant spray. Give it a light sprits on the fep use a microfiber cloth to rub it around and cover the whole fep. Then pour resin in. This will prevent prints from clinging to fep.
More time setting them up but considerably less time removing and cleaning. Sounds like a winner to me. I use the auto supports on light or medium and then go back and tweak as needed. Thanks Uncle Jessy!
I happened to watch his video the other day but hadn't been able to try them yet. This shows a good reason to try them. The skate is so useful to remove print.
His support settings are awesome. Been using them for months. However, in my opinion at least, his bias against auto-supports is nonsense. Particularly if you use Prusa-Slicer, autosupports are great. Apply his settings for thinner supports, then auto-generate them and, as you previously did, clean up and manually add or remove as neccessary. Why spend an hour re-doing what software already does just fine?? These programs have gotten better with every release, and autosupports are a godsend. Plus as others have said, a little extra heat helps even more with removal, I use a hair dryer to warm the model/supports up after washing. I'd love to see you do a V3 of this test using his settings but following your own "autosupports + manual tweaking" workflow. That will give you the best of both worlds.
Way to give respect to 3d printing pro. The guy is so obsessive he's the best. Love it. By the way you were wearing my shirt a bit ago and now you have my chair. Getting a little weird. Lol. Keep up the great work.
I have been using his supports for a while now and I found that if you have issues with the light supports you can leave the contact area and depth the same and beef up the rest of the support for flawless functionality. But it’s not just his settings. He does a great job of teaching you chitubox and really how to place the supports.
I use 3DPP's technique's for printing D&D minis, and I literally don't even use pliers or clippers for them. I use needle nose tweezers, and I do absolutely no sanding or cleaning up afterwards, because I simply do not need to. Highly recommend all his videos.
Your model now looks like he is throwing some 🤟🏾. Seems appropriate. Having printed a few of Printed Obsession's xenomorph, I am all to familiar with breaking off the occasional finger or three. I've tweaked 3DPP's supports a little, but he has solid tips and I think I've only ever used heavy supports for anchoring the base and the only fails I can say I've experienced are from either missed islands or underexposure. That can be the real killer with some of the thinner supports failing, I've found. Stay safe and keep up the great content.
Have you ever tried removing supports after pouring over near boiling water on the print? I use an electric kettle to heat up water and then pour over the support connections to the prints and the supports come off super easy. Great video, keep it up.
Nice shoutout, he really does make great content. I know I would not be where I am today with resin printing without his tips, tricks, and suggestions.
Thanks for the video. I spent a lot time for setting manual support in the past, but at moment, the light auto-supports from Chitubox are so good, that I use this and set only some additional supports, if realy necessar. I printet many 1:32 miniatures with this and had never problems.
I mainly use auto supports but i almost always use the smallest size. (lychee slicer) I find using a few more smaller supports is a bit better than less thicker supports. Less damage when i remove them. I also use a heat gun to soften them and they just melt off with zero effort.
i've been using 3dprinting pros settings for a few months and they are way more time in set up but way better for speed of clean up. I let my prints sit in IPA for a couple of hours and the supports just easily peel off.
Another great video. I've been doing what you do. Auto supports and then I go in with some of 3D Printing Pro settings adding and removing manually as needed. I'm slowly dialing back the density and amout to see just how few supports I need. I've been printing on my Transform non stop for 7 days now and have run through 8 bottles of the Siyara Tech Fast, based in your recommendation. As others say the hot water makes my medium to lite supports basicly fall off.
I'm professional photographer. Instead of a macro lens, buy a macro adapter set for your camera. They are cheaper and should give you the results you want.
This video raises so many questions.... Like how are you keeping the hair so stylish under quarantine conditions??? I've got the total Bob Ross going about now... Secondly- I'd like to see how these adapt to the heavier settings we use on the Phenom for MONGO prints!!!
bwahaha I have been self grooming for a few years now. Maybe only once or twice a year to get a real hair cut. Just clippers and the mirror. YEP! Already taking a look at big boy supports with some tweaks from Dr Pro
I personally use a raft and then set my supports to .7mm diameter both middle and top and just autogenerate in chitubox and that works pretty well for me, I mostly use my resin printer for miniatures so take that with a grain of salt since I don’t really know how that may work with heavier prints. (Mars pro 2)
I like my supports to peel away when I'm done so I currently use .4mm contact diameter .2mm contact depth 4-6mm spacing and angles all the way up to 90 so it supports everything
Really like your videos very informative I’m a newbie to 3D printing I’ve got a anycubic photon and learning the right supports and orientation to stop getting a failed print is definitely a learning curve, really like the hands on demos you do it’s helped me a lot. Thank you 🤘
I have been printing the pre-supported Artisan Guild miniatures - 3DPrintingPro provides the pre-supported versions - not because I want the models, but because the feeling of pulling the supports off is satisfying. (I mean, I don’t really have a need for an army of Oni orcs... yet.)
I love his support settings and have been using them since he first started his channel. I have been tweaking them according to my machine and resin, but have had great results on all of my prints.
If you want them to fall off even easier..I run my sink as hot as it can go, and run them under for about 30 seconds. The supports just fall off at that point.
Doesnt that make the print soft as well? I mean the water doesnt know what to loosen. If you had fingers the size of the supports.... I havent tried it myself, just curious
Normally no, but since I like to show the print cleaned on the buildplate I will. In general It should be okay since almost everhthjng is metal. Mean green for 15-20 mins in the sonic cleaner
I usually dunk my prints in hot water before curing , allows me to snap off the supports without damaging the model ( it makes the resin a lot softer and more likely to co-operate ) never lost a finger again
Putting in the time is worth it to me. A poorly supported model can result is a poor print. Auto supports may do the bare minimum to technically cover the vital areas but not properly support it or have a back up in case a support fails.
If you are looking into a new macro lens, check out Sigma's 105mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM macro. I've been using it for a few years and its great quality and much cheaper than other similar lenses.
Wow I'm having issues similar to what you showed in the picture and Phrozen just told me to replace the LCD. I'm going to have to check my firmware first.
I've used 3d printing pros support settings before and I've gotten failed prints because the layers have shifted for being too weak. I prefer your settings since it's thicker.
All these ideas and examples are so helpful, thanks for bringing all the information to all us, it has definitely helped my Resin printing ! keep up the great work Sir.
After scraping my first build plate trying to pry stuff off, everything gets skates at the bottom. That way I can get under and lift off the plate without ever touching it.
Gonna need to try it myself. Questions on your print and after care process. Do you go print, wash, remove supports, then UV cure? Or is the order different?
Been watching your videos and 3dPrintingPro's videos for a long time wife finally got me the elegoo mars, and besides the Rook Chess piece test I've had zero prints that havent failed on me (so 1 good out of 11) and with these settings I'm still getting fails...I'm getting upset I know its a great printer but supports are kicking my ass - either the model will be supported and half the arm is missing with supports showing on the print but nothing attached to it, or just not developing on the build plate and staying on the FEP screen. I'm about to give up. Supports are hard :(
Thanks Jessy (so want to type the other name, LOL) Good info as well as justified some of my observations on supports. Your support setups got me started with success and then have been tuning as I go based on my results. His insight just highlighted some areas that I was missing. I am probably going to contact him on a manufacturing side supports that I am moving into based on a couple clients request after seeing a CNC version of parts verses a Resin 3D printed part. :) keep it coming on the videos
You need to use hot water. I use a water boiler and the supports come off even better. I am using his supports for a couple month now and whenever i see supports like yours i feel like ........if they would only know how easy it could be!
I feel dumb. Is the 3d photo res really that fragile? In my head, it prints vertical, in layers, and its hanging...shouldnt the base be the only support you need?
Hey Jessy can i ask ehat was thw problem of the display and how the update fixed it i have the same lines on ky m3 max and constantly my supports fail only when i use hard it print something
This right here is why there needs to be a Top Down DLP printer coming out, even at $1-2,000 it would be worth it due to the reduction and hassle of failed prints. The problem is no one wants to have 4 liters of resin in a tank.... However I have lost $100s in failed prints due to sticking to the film or being skewed due to the pressures exerted on more solid style prints.
I'm a noob to printing and wanted to ask : why would you print on that strange angle? wouldn't printing perfectly vertical mean you need less supports? thanks for any help anyone
I'm trying to get supports that are strong enough and contact enough to not have failed prints , but leaves little to no surface blemishes after removing if possible
I've tried to change my supports to be similar to 3dprintingpro, but he talks way to fast, and was quite difficult to make my changes and track what he was saying at the same time. Unfortunately no link was supplied to load in his version of the supports.
I have a Creality LD002R....on my second print using Elegoo Red resin I had gummy spots on my release sheet....gummed up resin....donyou know what may jave caused that and is there a way to get that off without damaging the release film? Thanks!!
Jessy, can you share your support settings for the Peopoly Phenom L. I tried 3DPrintingPro's settings and it has been 24 hours of failure after failure for me.
i really enjoy your videos. i got my first elegoo mars 3 recently. Do you have a tutorial on cleaning up the model after its printed? when i remove the supports i get this pointy ends on the model like yours XD. What do you use to 'sand' these?
Jessy...I have a off question regarding the "Pause" button. Can you use it to check the begging process of the print? or is it a button you should not every use?
Yeah I will hit that withint the first maybe 15 mins of the print to make sure everhthjng is properly sticking. If you do that later when the actual print is printing (not the supports) it might cause you to get a line in your print
Hey Jess what is the best 200$ printer for dnd minis user friendly u think if u could do a little link would be great really enjoy your vids I bought a 2 hand pla printer and my printer won't work it's a davinchi mini pro and it keeps comming out the feeding tube and in rolling from the real so I think I got had for 200$but hey u live and learn
Just started watching 3DPrintingPro yesterday for opinions on the Sonic Mini, curious if you would recommend it over the Mars at this point? Maybe a good Vs. Video
Personally I would have removed the base with meshmixer and print that as a separate part. The mini should be angled less then 10 degrees so most of the damage is on the bottom.
This is why I have been so afraid to assemble my Resin Printer. My FDM printers really need no other work than to let simplify3d do whatever it wants. I guess that is not very fair since I don't print pretty things like you do. Resin printers seem so much trouble.
Not using warm water to remove supports? They come off even cleaner & easier. It's a tip straight from 3D printing pro. Edit: I should have read the comments first. I see someone else already mentioned this. Thanks for the video.
So here is a question for you, you keep saying "it takes longer to set up his supports" and "much less cleanup" so which do you think takes more time adding setup and cleaning together, his or yours?
I always want to use an overall raft (skate) but with a smaller area than 100%, but any custom supports I put in that are beyond the raft don't extend down to the build plate. Is there a way around this issue?
Thanks, that was really informative. Have you tried running the two files through photon validator to see if you got all the islands on your manual support setup?
@Uncle Jessy No surprise there. you are using way too thick support pillars all over your 3Dprints. But in your defense... the big parts you usually print require stronger supports after all. But for miniatures, even 3DPrinting Pro does use too thick supports very often. Although, what you do correctly is to place the "contact ball" wheres 3DPP usually doesn't use contact balls. Why is this OK? Well, with the balls you remain with an additional half-ball material you can easily send off, but 3DPP's models are often chipped. BUT... the danger to use contact spheres is that the cone going from the support to the sphere is too thin once it connects to the sphere. So, very often the support snaps off during the build process because of this. Bottom line, use sphere contact but check the cone. And of course, use all three sizes for your support and put them wisely!
@Charlie Vetsworth Hi Charlie. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough. I'm not against big support pillars. It basically all depends on the model you're printing. I wanted to emphasize that for fine/small detail you need probably more of the finest support and not less but stronger support. Jessy is often using too thick pillars wheres some time thinner and more dens support would be beneficial to the post-processing. It is always better to use more slender pillars that just a few fat ones. Sorry but that's the law of physics ;-)
