A short video where I go over the settings and also explain where I make changes to those settings on the fly. My Patreon please support! / 3dprintingpro
I just bought mine and I'm watching many videos as I can so I will be a pro. 😊 I don't see any video on here on house to make your own models though. 😥
just wanna throw it out there that i do 3d printing very much on or off, either im printing everything, or its long stretches of months where the machine is little more then a display piece. but every single time i come back to it, this is always the first video i watch to make sure everything is optimal. from the bottom of my heart, Thank You
I just wanted to say I've been struggling with failed prints, dimples, all sorts of shit for weeks trying to use the recommended settings. Your tutorials fixed all my problems. Thanks so much.
The most helpful video. Just got into resin printing and struggled with supports. Printed a few things with your settings and oh my god, the supports come off so easy
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought a Mars 3 and some Siraya Tech Fast resin and immediately needed to fill an order for some minis. Scrambled to figure out some good settings in Chitubox and learn how to use it. Found this video and hoped it would at least get me a starting point for some decent supports that didn't suck. First try, these supports rocked! They came right off of the model without any significant cleanup. Haven't needed to tweak the support settings any further. You are a life saver!
One of the deciding factors of me supporting Artisan Guild despite tight funds was learning you presupoprted the minis. I do not have your patience and am very happy to let you do it for me. Thank you for all your hard work, sir.
I’ve been having fair success with the defaults and a few minor tweak…until last night when i had a horrific failure on a somewhat heavy model that shifted due to support failure. Reviewed my settings against yours and discovered a few of my setting had changed wildly from their defaults. No idea how it happened but I’m going to set up some config files I can load before a new support session to be sure I’m starting with good values. I notice this with Chitubox, if i drag my mouse over some numeric fields on any of the setting screens that the values will change rather quickly (I’m on a Mac if that matters). So, I restored all the Chitubox defaults, saved them for later use…then went through your settings and tweaked the defaults to be your settings, saving a new config set so I can get back to these quickly. Thanks so much! I’ve only been doing 3D printing a little over a month using a mix of auto supports and presupported models…I’m just now starting to do some manual supports and that failure really spooked me because it was such a simple model…now I know I should load a config file before placing any supports so I know my settings haven’t changed since my previous print. I wonder if it’s a Windows vs Mac thing…or perhaps my Magic Mouse being overly sensitive?
Your thinking is correct. The contact diameter and depth under "contact shape" only is applied when you are using contact spheres. It adjusts the crosse section width and depth of penetration of the sphere. The connection upper diameter below that is what would otherwise connect to the sphere, so when "none" is selected, that is now the point of connection to the model directly. Hence why the settings above it dont seem to do anything, they are specifically related to when using a listed contact shape.
I love using the Sphere contact shape. Does he ever say why he doesn't use them? It guides my flushcutters with larger supports, so when I snip there's barely anything to cleanup. And on thin areas, I don't have to worry about double checking the depth that often which might lead to supports poking through the back side. If they do poke through, they are rounded over and not noticeable.
@@chadvoller2031 The sphere adds a larger surface contact point as well as when dealing with lots of support points may result in the spheres contacting each other and bonding, or touching areas of the model unintentionally that then results in scarring. Using his support settings flush cutters dont need a guide, you dont even pick them up to remove supports. Lil warm water and the supports pretty much just fall off the model with no/nearly no marks they even existed.
@@MattWeber The Contact Shape set to Sphere has less contact area unless you set them larger than the Upper Diameter, and have the Contact Depth = or > to the radius of that Contact Sphere. For instance, for his Heavy is set at 0.80 for the Contact Diameter, I set the Contact Depth to 0.20-0.10, so it tapers towards the surface instead of being at the equator of the Sphere, which results in easier removal. I don't use water, as then I have another source to get rid of as I'm not one who will put that residue down the drain. I've tried his settings, which weren't much different than mine other than the sphere Contact Shape. They left more tiny marks using Elegoo Standard Gray than when using a Sphere as the Contact Shape. Much of my stuff is hard surfaced objects, that get made into molds (think coins, badges, etc), where support marks will become visible in the silicone whether one thinks they are invisible or not on the print. You can get away more with organic shapes.
Im printing a full plate with these settings now, Im finding on pieces with the light supports, the pieces pretty much fall into the fep :( Im thinking to increase the contact diameter a bit and maybe the contact depth/penetration
Nice video, i do most of this anyway but i did gain a few extras i didn't know, every resin printer starting out needs to have this video viewed and playtlisted
amazing video. thx a lot. Uncle Jessy recommends you and he doesn´t fail at all. very well explained. one of my new best 3d channel. i can´t wait the next one. regards from Spain
Thank You so much! The old settings and methodology were game changers and I'm sure these will have the same effect. Whenever I am helping newbies learn, I ALWAYS send them this way.
I just finished my first ever prints last night. Your pre-supports are amazing and watching these I hope to figure out how to support my heroforge files. Thanks for what you're doing!
For the chin you can edit the small Pilar shape setting in the middle window. Now you can place the chin support without the extra support on the bottom.
Glad to see the update. Your original was very good but I did have issues with the light settings. I just beefed the base of the top up and the middle to match medium. Perfect prints.
I had/have issues with my printer and I used that same model that you presupported for Artisan Guild. It printed great! I let me know that I can still get great prints with the issues I'm having. That's great news for my customers and gives me something to work on with my models that are not presupported.
Awesome! Was using your settings before and loved them so time to upgrade! I agree with the light supports being a little bit bigger. I loved the ultra-lights but towards the sides of my print area they were always a gamble wether or not they would hold.
Thanks Greg! I got into resin printing because of the insane models and without your help through posts and videos I think I would still be printing over cured blobs that fouled the vat.
If you set top contact shape to none like you notice contact diameter will have no effect, so this settings are actually lighter than previous ones because you decreased Contact depth and upper diameter. Only heavy are heavier
So far 3 out of 3 minis have printed perfectly, thanks so much for your advice. Now I just have to get the build plate to move how I want on chitubox lol.
I know you mention resin do these custom supports work well for FDM printers as well? Also, do you think custom supports are the way to go if we only have a FDM printer?
I don’t think it would be worthwhile to do this in most cases. You don’t need to be as accurate with FDM printing and you probably wouldn’t be getting the supports you plan in meticulous detail to actually print with the same level of detail. That being said, I would be interested to see a side-by-side test. I predict a plate full of angry PLA spaghetti.
Greg, thanks for continuing to help us newbies figure out how to get the best quality prints (other than getting the presupported Artisans Guilds ones, which I am a Patron of!). When I open your pre-supported files, I’m blown away by the careful placement and all of the really long, thin supports. My question is : has your process changed over time, or are your earliest support lesson videos still the best way to learn how to do this? I look at some of these models and I’m not sure Id even know where to start placing the supports!
Hey thanks! My early videos are still the way I place them now, I just have added in some more of the advanced techniques (covered in my later videos) as I have gone on and become more learned and practiced myself! :)
I am running chitubox 1.8.1 and I have set my support settings to basically match your "insane" settings with a few mods of my own. While I am adding supports to a model, though, I will notice that the [Top][Middle][Bottom] tabs keep switching to [Middle] even though I always keep the [Top] tab selected. That isn't a problem in and of itself of course, but when I click back to the [Top] tab, I find that the [Contact Depth] will have changed from 0.10 to something else, usually 0.40, I think! I keep having to continuously watch that to make sure it doesn't change. Is there any reason for this? Anything I might be doing to change it? Any way to freeze the settings so that they cannot change? I've asked everywhere else and no one has ever answered. I'm hoping you might have some insight.
great vid as always, hopefully you still look at old vids. but with the larger bed printers I been hearing you need to use more heavy and med supports? any thoughts on this? or experience? I have a new Saturn and am curious what you have found out
I remember you mentioning some time ago that Prusaslicer's auto-support function was actually decent. Is it possible to adapt these support settings for use in that program's auto-support feature?
Hello 3DPrintingPro. Could you have another video where you would cover ALL configuration of you supports? Or even better share a .cfg of it? Printscreen would work perfectly as well.
Thanks for the info, it's really awesome that you share so much with us! Quick question though, what layer height and anti aliasing settings do you use? I'm getting a lot of fails lately with pre-supported middle I've gotten via Patreon, and I'm guessing it's my settings that are off. Thanks again! Keep up the good work!
At THIS point in time Jul 2021, what tool, in your opinion, is the BEST at AUTOGENERATING supports. I've only tried a few so far but the difference between Halot BOX (horrible) and Meshmixer (very good) is mind-blowing. Other than manually adding supports, what is your favorite tool for autogenerating? Thx.
I'm having issues printing with your settings... which I do not understand. My supports print fine but my print isn't attached to the supports.. it gets stuck to the FEP film.. Is there anyway I can prevent this?
Great tips here....but I was wondering why you dont use any contact shape?. Is it down to the amount of surface area you need or is it to do with the clean up afterwards.
id love to know the answer to this also. contact shape and depth are what I'm currently trying to dial in. i want it to be that the support rips just over the surface of the model so it leaves a tiny bump rather then a divot. looking for input on that where ever I can get it.
Why don't you export your settings in Chitubox so we can import the profile? I'm afraid I'll miss a setting and screw up the whole print. Plus, it's better to import rather than making changes to the default and accidentally overwriting the default and losing default settings - since Chitubox can't seem to understand how to revert to default settings.
Do these setting work on bigger printing? I'm not printing figurine, its more for prototype and all that stuff... and what i need to print don't have that much detail. (i have a peopoly phenom L)
I've been using your support settings with much success on my original Mars. However I got the new Mono X from Anycubic and those same supports tend to fail. Do you think its the shorter times with the mono screen?
Maybe a dumb question pn an old video but how do i change connection length to match the ones here? In my chitubox its grayed out and stuck at 2. Did i miss something in the video about this?
Why is your Connection Length on your Medium supports 4.00? It's larger than Heavy. I want to make my supports look exactly like yours but I notice that Middle and Bottom on mine are different than yours. I'm starting from default so I don't understand the differences. I'm a Patreon so I would really appreciate your help.
Thank you for all of your extremely helpful videos on resin printing! There are several videos out there about "support settings". I would like to see a video about how to estimate or determine the amount or density of the supports based on the size of the part to prevent failures. You print mostly miniatures that have very little weight. I am printing much larger (heavier) parts i.e. cosplay masks, armor pieces etc. I error on more supports versus too few to reduce the amount of failures, but I am probably wasting a considerable amount of resin on supports. So far it's been a guessing game when placing supports on bigger parts. If anyone has a "rule of thumb" or formula they use for supporting large parts please leave a response. I am going to ask Uncle Jessy the same question because he prints similar sized parts as I do.
Have you found anything in your research? I'm looking for the same things. Just switched to a elegoo jupiter and running into a lot of support problems.
Hello Greg. At 6:02 you mention keeping the diameter at 1.2 but you are refering to the "small pillars" which are the ones that are supported on the model, not the floor. An example of this would be a mouth or a dug out place where there are no holes to go through in order to reach the floor (plate) but instead it has to support on the model itself. The actual diameter of the support is 1.5. You probably already noticed this anyway, but I just wanted to mention it!
OK so I've got some patreon files and some are MUCH easier to remove supports than others... Lo and behold! Artisan Guild's supports are done by you... And they are FANTASTIC
Sir, you really rock! I was about to through the goddam mars away until I came across your channel and videos. Since then, my 3d resin printing life changed! I have almost 100% printing success rate. Thank you soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much!!!!! I have question for you: I need to print a file that's ~+1.5mm wider on the x-axis than the Chitu size settings. Is there a kind of tolerance there, meaning I could adjust the printing area to these requirements in the settings section? Thanks a lot again for your needs.
I just bought a 3d printer (which is on its way). I loved the specifity of the explanation. I only dont understand how to use these settings when there is a circular base on the miniature. When do we use the heavy supports and the medium and light? Thanks!
The contact diameter setting don't do anything when your contact shape is 'none' like yours. That setting affects the diameter of the sphere contacts if you're using them.
these videos are great as always - would you consider a video on how to support more mechanical objects like small-scale tanks and the like? with such small models it can be difficult to understand what does and does not need supporting in a different way from the organic models
Yesterday I ordered my first resin 3D printer and I have no idea how to start off even. The whole "supports" thing seems very important, and it sounds like something I'll screw up easily. I don't even know when to place supports, from where, where to, and so on. Very overwhelming.
These supports look great on minis but I typically print larger pieces on my Moai and Transform. Have these settings been used on bigger prints? Great work btw! Keep it up...
Most of mine would be too thin for bigger bulkier pieces due to vastly increased peel forces, but in some delicate detail spots they'd still be useful!