Thank you! I’m a “curvy “ tall female, and both ready to wear and sewing patterns have never straight out fit me. Although I would envy friends who seem to be able to walk in a store and find jeans that fit perfectly, that can’t happen for me. It’s not my body’s fault, it’s not the clothing manufacturer fault or the pattern maker’s fault. I have always needed to alter or live with too short clothes that don’t hit me anywhere correctly and pull funny when I move. I was blessed with an aunt who was a seamstress and taught me fundamental alterations that I understand and can do. It’s unrealistic to think the pattern makers can fit everyone. But, it would help if the big 4 put their finished garment measurements on the envelope. And not just bust, waist and hip. I really enjoy your live sewing! ✌🏽❤️ Take care!
Yes that would be great! Those pattern companies can certainly set a tone for others but they're a little behind the indie companies on that front. Your aunt sounds like a treasure.
Wow! It is so great to see someone addressing these issues. Especially someone who I know knows what they are talking about. That's you Seramy in case you were wondering. Patterns are not cheap. And it's true if we make them up and we don't like the way they fit we assume it's our lack of sewing skills or we didn't pick the right fabric etc etc. I wouldn't dream of trying to return a pattern because it didn't fit right and I'm sure a company would laugh at my request. Every time I'm thinking of purchasing a pattern I do my usual pattern review research and my Instagram hashtag search. Even with all that you are right. How do we know what the fit issues are of the reviewer. I post pictures of things I make with pattern hashtags but I never thought to include what size I am and what size I made. I think that's a great idea if we all could start doing that.
You're always so kind and supportive Nancy. Thank you very much for being instrumental in keeping me going. Sometimes I hear words you say and others and that is the little push I need to make a video!
Thanks Saremy! This is such a great explainer video. I really like the last part - what we should expect and what is expecting a lot from the pattern companies. I also think it is really helpful to talk about when things don't go well - it is data and any self-respecting business wants to know when things don't go as advertised! We get outraged about the waste in fast fashion - but look at all the unintentionally generated waste in home sewn garments when things are unwearable! Lastly - we can't be all things to all people - if you shoot for that, no one will be happy. The great marketer, Seth Godin, says to find your tribe and thrill them. Pattern companies do me a huge favor when they tell me that the pattern is meant for curvy, petite or big & tall folks. And really lastly - it would be fun if there was another person sewing the same pattern that is a different size and providing their thoughts as well - I know, I know...it would be a lot of coordination. But heck - it might come together once in a while???
Absolutely! There was a wonderful movement on Instagram last year called #SewMySize. Where you could find your measurement twin and the. Maybe see garments your thinking about and how they look in your measurements. Hashtags are so great for seeing a garment on every size!
Great video Saremy & thank you for the unisex comment, amongst many others . So many good points in here that I'm going to save it & watch again! I think the best advise, after sewing with a lot of different designers, is to find one that designs for someone that reflects most closely to your measurements - especially height & for some reason that's one of the harder numbers to find. Much more clarity is needed on the sizing.
Thanks reminding me about height. I’m gonna put that on the list. I never see designers who look like me, but I certainly treat some patterns with skepticism when the designer looks VERY different than me 😂
Loved this insider take on pattern construction and reasonable expectations! I am surprised that more pattern designers aren't already sending you their patterns + payment for live streams, especially if they don't have video tutorials. What an excellent way to get more publicity and success for their patterns. Re: fit, I'm learning to look at hashtags to find bodies like mine to see whether the pattern is a good choice for me. I'm realistic enough to know not everything will be, but I'm frustrated when I can't find enough info to make a decision. Or when the photos are so artsy as to be impossible to tell what the fit looks like. Please sewists, post standard front/back/side/seated fit photos even if you have to do it in one grid photo at the end! (And yes, this is a scolding to me, too, as I have not been diligent about this.)
Yes all of this! I need more seated photos too! I have trouble getting an angle on my chair. As far pattern companies sending me their patterns, I am small potatoes! But I have gotten a few projects from pattern companies. I think 4 so far. I’ve had two pattern companies accuse me of giving their pattern away for free and I wasn’t allowed to stream their project. I honestly think companies are nervous about me sewing their project. 🙃 (they can’t ban me btw but I decided to just pass on those minutes before I went live. It was frustrating) But maybe companies feel what I do is too organic. 🤷🏼♀️ that’s all I can come up with. I think the requests would have to come from viewers but I don’t expect you all to do that. I also think companies want their project only sewn their way (and in a few cases maybe they don’t know other ways and it makes them uncomfortable if I go off track). I actually don’t know though- they don’t tell me why 🤣 but they aren’t obligated! Maybe they have a video already. There is one company who gives me money to record me sewing her patterns 😌 I’m doing my second one now and I did one as a live stream. It’s not a significant amount of money but it helps! And it’s rewarding.
I always need to adjust fit, which is no problem, I’m well practiced with this and value muslin/prototype makes first - I’m a curvy pear, there’s always grading out. But, what can undo me is instructions that are hard to follow. RU-vid videos and online reviews help me a lot - especially when there is a fault in the pattern, or how to work something out.
Great video! A really great (and timely) reminder for me because I recently spent a lot of time and energy trying to figure out where I had gone wrong with a pattern, only to end up with actual blatant errors (a few pattern pieces not matching up). Super frustrating experience. I was really feeling like I paid for the privilege of testing that size/style combination for them and it pissed me off - especially since the only response I got after sending three messages specifying the issues was “I’ll look into it” & “all sizes get tested”. It has just left me feeling taken advantage of and that has never happened to me to this extent before with a pattern. Maybe I’ve been lucky, but I go through a LOT of patterns 😉 Great video and great laying out of plans and expectations - thank you!
that was a great video! there were multiple parts that blew my mind, like how 1 size of the pattern will fit the owner perfectly. I feel like that should've been obvious, but it wasn't for me lol.
I absolutely agree that NOT all pattern designers must include all sizes. Especially in the knitting pattern world. I trust designers who are approximately my shape and size. . . , I trust them to get the fit right.
Way to de-mystify what can be commonly be intimidating. I will usually assume the problem is me - especially when using instructions that are not well written or complete. I especially love your suggestion to find a company that reliably provides a fit that works for you. Stylearc is one of those for me. I knew what I was getting into (regarding the instructions) when I first started using their patterns, so it's hard to criticize what isn't even provided. LOL.
Yes! And if that’s all they give you, hopefully there’s marks on the pattern so you know where each of these locations are so you can measure easily. But they rarely are.
Very good video. These videos unfortunately not many people will watch. Of course I expected pattern to fit well. You talk about comfort. I think women are get more frustrated with fitting if the pattern and dress has to be very contouring (I hope you understand me) but I like these flattering dresses, more loose, relaxed. So that’s better. But if the garment has to fit perfectly ….. it has to be perfect. And for most of us it’s almost possible. The best way is to stay relaxed, in our minds. Try the patter, what will happen, will happen. And at the point you start this hobby and realize that patterns from companies are made in different standards …. Everybody should realize is not so simple as thought before. So to have just little expectations on a pattern is better. And btw. We can try over and over again. We will get better.
Good Talk! I do a bit of powerlifting, so i find that no pattern really fits. So if i find a pattern I like, I will buy and grade it (trial and error). Grading up a pattern would be a sweet video. Especially how to accurately find the front and back sleeve marks.
Ah yes! I keep meaning to do a bit of grading. Have you heard of a full bicep adjustment? It’s quite clever. It looks complicated but if you follow the steps one at a time, it’s quite easy and you don’t have to adjust the armhole. It only adds girth to the bicep without changing the sew line. It’s pretty cool! No grading necessary.
I don’t understand why the Big 4 still cling to the standard of the ratio 36-24-36 from 50 years ago.It was never realistic for anyone over 30. Only models have that proportion, rarely home sewists. We have to grade out at the waist by 2 sizes on almost every pattern. What is the percentage of sewists who have the envelope waist size? If it’s only 5-10%, that is not standard. I feel a slight rebuke every time I don’t ‘measure up’ to what is sold as the universal ideal. (Ok, I know it would cost them a fortune but it still bugs me!)
Amen! The truth is out. I have never expected a pattern to fit me out of the box, and always delighted if it does. I don’t buy from companies that don’t cater to my size range. Thanks, thanks, thanks. I’ve never been in the industry, but I did grow up learning to sew without the expectation the pattern would fit, nor the deprecation I am the wrong size. It is my task as a home sewist to ensure a pattern will fit me before the expensive fabric gets used. I don’t care about numbers, have my measurements in my profile, so when I show something I’ve made you have that info. I would like to remember to add a seated view, so that’s where I can do better. Thanks, Saremy, just thanks.
You nailed it. I did feel like I fell short of saying, well sewing is hard. And you just can’t expect to get those results the first time. And basically we’re all custom making ourselves clothes. So fit is our responsibility! And yes! Thanks for the reminder about a seated view!
Thank you for the lovely video. However I think it missed one key point: it is not just about a well drafter pattern, with correct sizes and fit, it is also about design and style. Yes, you can take a Simplicity pattern, do a FBA to match a H cup or size it up - yes, it will fit, but it will still look rather uninspiring, because it was designed imagining a very different body shape. A very oversized thick jumper might look cute on a very skinny woman, but buggy on everyone else. A higher waist dress will look flattering on a rounder, busty woman but not great on a thin woman with A cup. I also think that companies that have a distintive style, with details and on line with what are in the shops, ace the style side.
Thanks for watching! I’ve been thinking about your comment and I wasn’t sure how to reply. Your comments seem to be opinions about fit in the vein of what is appropriate for one body type and not appropriate for another and honestly this way of thinking is limiting to others and the clothes they choose to wear. If one likes how a garment fits them, then it fits great. We don’t have to wear it-they do! Know what I mean? The point of my video wasn’t about evaluating if a pattern was right for someone’s body type or not. That’s none of my business. What one wears and enjoys to wear is up to them!
I learned to sew a blouse in home economics. It fit because I was a teenager who fit into the big-five pattern measurements. Later I began to sew easy patterns and was so disappointed. The easy patterns were such a sloppy fit that I gave up. I’d taken some classes over the years and finally began to sew again. I feel for the current sewers beginning without a class or a mentor.
Such a wonderful video…great information for us, the home Sewist. Your points make sense and I appreciate the time it took for you to create this video.
Thanks so much for this. A great eye-opener. I always think it’s my fault when the patterns don’t fit. I have learned to look at the pattern company owner’s figure and compare it to mine. If it’s too different I know the patterns won’t fit. Thanks for improving my sewing. ❤️🧵🧵
I'm so glad Dotschi! But don't rule out a company by looking at the owner. I'd check the size chart and see if it works for your size! And then look at the hashtags of folks who've made one of their garments. You never know! They may not look like you but maybe they took that in to consideration and made their sizing less specific to one body type. Happy sewing!
I've made men's jacket The Foreman (Merchant and Mills) several times - in loose weave heavy linen, crisp mid-weight denim, wool tweed - completely different challenges each time. Different techniques needed for finishing, different problems with drape, and different look to the shape of it.
It would be really helpful if all the pattern companies included a suggested hashtag with their patterns like Seamwork does! Eg StyleArc things can be so hard to find!
A lot of them do but I agree. I want it on the pattern envelope or in the description on the website. I think style arc hashtags always start with SA. Like #SABarryPant but don’t quite me on that!
@@SewSewLive Mostly, yeah, but even they themselves don't use those consistently. I have definitely clicked on a hashtag in their insta previously and found nothing but that post. It's a small annoyance but one nevertheless. I just want to know the hashtag everyone else is making things under quickly and easily.
Yea true. They can’t help what others use for their hashtag. I wish folks would research before they post. I’ve definitely clicked on hashtags people are using and there were some posts in there that definitely didn’t belong. I think so many people don’t check their hashtags. And it’s a good idea to since it could already be being used by something you might not show kids under 18 😂 It’s happened to me many times! Once almost when I was live on RU-vid 🙈 but users don’t check and some companies don’t make it clear what to use! I really dislike it when I have to spend a few minutes searching for it.
Thanks for this video Saremy. I’m really interested in understanding patterns and the technicalities of it - not so I can draft my own patterns but just so I can make better garments for myself. I really value your experience and help. Looking forward to your new series.
Thank you, Saremy. This was very informative. I would love for all pattern companies to show all sizes on models and identify which size is being shown. Love the finished garment measurements. And I would appreciate learning if a specifice company has a recurring design issue such as tight sleeves, etc. I look forward to your reviews!
I completely agree! I would add that if a company consistently has a tight sleeve, it could be how they wanted it to fit-maybe it’s not even tight on their fit model. I sew one company’s patterns and I love them, but I have to lower the armhole 1”. Always. I’m fine making this adjustment. Honestly, the fact it’s consistent is awesome. That means they are consistent and I can count on it.
OMG, NO, I need the 30 page instructions!!! With photos too!!!! I also am finding, after sewing up 3 muslins (my usual) of a pattern, and finally get it right, I just have no desire to actually sew up the pattern in my “good” fabric. I guess I just need to fall in love to do that. I am new at sewing so I am not actually producing much more than muslins at this point. Thanks for all your work in producing this video!
Nice job doing those muslins!! ANd don't worry, I'd never take away essential instructions. But I think there could be two sets. One that is the instructions to sew the garment. And another that has how to sew, cut, mark or whatever the pattern company wants to teach, in a separate booklet that comes with every pattern. I'm trying to make it easier, not harder, I promise!xoxo
@@SewSewLive I love this idea. It would separate out the rules of a specific pattern company into a place where sewers could easily find them. Having that information buried in the instructions or scattered around makes sewing new patterns more tricky than it needs to be.
This was so good, 💗 I’m learning that I gravitate towards companies that show the most details in finished garment measurements. Love your comment about showing each size on the corresponding model. I would add to that in the same fabric so we can really see what it looks like. I would prefer that a pattern designer put out less patterns and put their time into making a great pattern. Thank you for your wisdom. 💗
Yes! Each one in the same fabric! I was picturing it like this but didn’t verbalize it. Thank you!! I didn’t realize I meant this haha! But you’re absolutely right.
Super helpful. I had actually noticed how indie patterns fit best on someone who looks like the owner. One pattern company has super skinny arms and legs and excess around the middle. I like their stuff so I make adjustments but what a delight it was to sew Muna and Broad which are meant more for me. I'm going to watch the video a couple more times. So much here. thank you!
You're right however they're not readily available and you can't see what they are before you buy them ($64 I think). Sot it's kind of a gamble. One could argue, well if they're standards it doesn't matter what they are since if everyone followed them, we'd atleast know what to expect. But it doesn't mean they're current, correct or thorough. ASTM is more geared for standards of things for safety related things. But this is a good thought and I'm glad you mentioned it!
You are so welcome! And yes!! Muna and Broad have really created a great line for a community of sewists who deserve clothes that fit! If you've ever heard Leila (of Muna and Broad) speak about sizing and school, it's really great to hear her experience and perspective.
Great video! One thing I think is slightly misleading, or rather not clarified enough, is the part about how patterns should not take 8 months to produce. It is highly likely that if an indie company says a pattern took 8 months, they are not referring solely to the drafting, fitting, and grading. I imagine they are referring also to designing, tech editing or testing, copy editing, labeling and laying out PDF files, making photo samples and photo shoots, web prep, etc. etc. etc.
I guess if we’re taking a crew of one. Thanks for watching! Yes that’s certainly a lot for one person to do especially if they’re not doing it full time. But I do still hold firm on most of my points. In my experience, it’s very possible to make a lot more finished patterns in less time. And yes with all of the testing and such. Maybe one day we’ll get to hear about the timelines of some indie companies! That’d be awesome.
Thanks Seremy! I especially loved learning your insider info about pattern companies and sizing! Interesting. Oh yeah.. for me i need shoulder width and sleeve length measurements on patterns!! It’s hard to tell how much ease is drafted in so just measuring the pattern for finished length is not usually accurate. Thanks for a great video.
Hello Saremy, I wouldn't mind paying part of the price for each pattern I like to see your review of. Why don't you create a list of patterns and each one of us will pay part of the price for the ones we want.
Hi Saremy, great information here. I recently sewed a very popular pattern where the PDF tiles did not fit together correctly, so this can be a problem as well. In this case there was about a 3 inch difference in hem length so quite significant. The garment did turn out okay, so it hadn’t occurred to me to provide feedback, but maybe it would help the next person.
Oh goodness! 3”?? Whoa! I sometimes have trouble getting pages to line up with I print them myself. Apparently this is common with an HP. I know I’m not doing anything. Since one whole pant leg works and then the next one doesn’t. It’s strange! But I learned it’s my printer. What you experienced is really crazy! I bet they’d want to know that.
I would love to see more honest reviews. For example, if the pocket is too small for an adult hand to go into, why not mention that if you post a pic of your make? These are the things I consider essential for a pattern: clearly indicated seam allowances (don't make me search the instructions to figure it out), do the seams walk/match, are the pockets big enough, are the notches used correctly so that there is no guess work on what seam sews to which, do the facings lay flat... If these types of things are done properly, it makes it so much easier to adjust the pattern and then sew it up.
@@SewSewLive I recently sewed a brand new European indy pattern for a coat (something I have learned not to do when knitting--let other people test it first--you'd think I'd transfer that knowledge!) It turned out really well but sewing was a bit of a pain because of a different notch strategy than I am familiar with. I had to repeatedly check the pattern pieces to understand what was going on.
As always, such thoughtful tell-it-like-it-is commentary! Did you mention including finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces at various spots, eg. bust, waist, hips? (I was multitasking and may have missed :))
Thanks for listening, Janet! Do you mean directly on the pattern pieces? I think that is very helpful, however if a pattern is nested with its all of its sizes it might be a lot of number close together. But I think having the finished measurements of the garment is essential, maybe in chart form like we usually see them. We could certainly use a few more!
The sleeves portion resonated with me. After many years of sewing, I will only purchase patterns with cut on sleeves, or drop shoulders, etc. I have never successfully increased bicep circumference on a pattern. It never looks good. I find it frustrating because I can find RTW shirts with set in sleeves that do fit! Not every time, but many times. I don't get it.
That is so frustrating! I hope one day you do encounter a sleeve that works well for you. And maybe you can transfer it to most patterns you're sewing. I do this myself since I like trusting a sleeve I know will work. Good luck Cindy!
I find your comments early on in this video regarding “fit” and the company owner interesting. With indie patterns I have noticed if the company owner is modelling the pattern it’s likely to fit and hang well. Is this because it’s drafted for them? In one such instance I made a dress where I had to do a narrow shoulder adjustment of almost 2cm ( normally for me it would be 0.5-0.6 cm). When I looked at the pattern picture, the company owner / model had broad shoulders. I’ve needed to make fewer adjustments when the model/owner is more my shape.
Some knit pattern designers (especially those just starting out I think) will say in the pattern description that a pattern has been edited by a tech editor. Is there an equivalent in the sewing pattern world? I’ve also found for both knitting and sewing it can be eye opening to look into the designers testing process in Instagram posts looking for testers or on their website.
Very true! However tech editors for knitting designs only check the math and instructions. They don’t validate fit or sizing. In home sewing, the closest I’ve seen is ‘test sewists’. However most likely they’re customers. Even if they do get compensated. They’re not guaranteed to be trained professionals in pattern design. They can still be a help of course conveying their experience sewing it and how it fits. But it’s honestly not their responsibility to ‘check’ a pattern. (In my opinion) You know? Even if they do get compensated.
This is great information for me as I’m trying to improve my pattern options (mainly in menswear). How can I access these companies that grade patterns for $9 per size? I’m no expert grader and would love to take that element away from my drafting process.
Wellllll. That’s tough since they are geared toward companies drafting patterns. If you’re pattern isn’t in one of their CAD programs, it’d need to be digitized in then graded. And you couldn’t send an existing pattern company’s pattern in. They wouldn’t do that because of copyright. Hopefully this coming year I’m going to do more drafting and grading.
@@SewSewLive thanks for that information. These patterns would be ones I draft myself that I would then put on sale. I have a cad program, but have to export to illustrator because the dxf file doesn’t translate very well.
@@patrickbingham9348 Ah ok. So you can search for grading and marker making, or computer aided design services for garment industry. Things like that. The one I used is retiring. Does the cad program you have have any message groups or support? Because there could be others that utilize a subcontractor for their grading. Does your cad program have grading? If it does, it could be worth learning. I know it’s a steep curve but it’s so important to understand for sizing.
