Fitment Industries more info on air lift systems? How to go about it, pictures, videos on what it actually comes with, most importantly, pricing. A range on pricing. Make it very visual! Going to your guy's website is confusing. Searching for the correct wheel and tire was not the best experience for me. I couldn't even search by manufacturer from my phone on my 8th Gen Civic. I wanted to narrow it down to just some Volks but I can't seem to find it where I can filter it to that. Searching for wheels and lowering kits for my car on your guy's website is not user friendly. Do a video that talks more about airlift systems and a DIY video on how to install it professionally.
I know you are looking for this comment. The dude in 4:52 IS OK. I did my research basically because i wanted to laugh but I didnt know if he was dead. It happen in Brazil, Minas Gerais Avenue, he had some fractures in the skull and chest, but local news says he is okay.
I run 25mm spacers on my 2007 BMW 328i, they're hub centric and I've had then for almost a year. I drive 90 miles out of town every other weekend and daily drive in town and have has absolutely no problems what so ever
I have 1.5inch eBay spacers for off-roading, and I have to say I am very impressed. A couple thousand miles and maybe off-roading trips later and they are holding very well. Of course they are hub centric, therefor, I have basically no vibrations. They feel extremely well, especially for the price point.
Totally safe....get name brand ones......and ones that are hub centric....here in Germany we drive generally faster than you can in the States.....and never had a problem
Steve Vento Nope definitely drive faster in Germany. please tell me where you are driving 180+ mph(sustained) in the US. Also, they know how to use the fast lane correctly bitch 🙃
Running a 10mm hub-centric spacer (not adapter w/studs). Just used some longer ARP lug studs to make up the difference. No vibration and things worked out great.
Little extra two cents on spacers from someone who has been running them for a long while now. First off there are generally two kinds, slip on and bolt on. Slip on spacers are basically just a big washer that just sits between the wheel and the hub. The other is bolt on, which has the second set of studs and bolts onto the hub before the wheel is installed. I personally would never run a slip on spacer that exceeds 5mm, but that is just personal preference. I've currently got a set of ISC 25mm bolt on adapters and love them. Before those, I did have Ebay adapters that I got from a buddy, I have no idea what they were made of, but they were hubcentric and worked for the ~$100 that he payed for the whole set, and I was at 402whp and never snapped them off like many said I would. Like the video states, if you install them properly, and use hubcentric, you shouldn't ever run into issues.
Yea, the "washer" kind only relies on being hard enaugh, you don't have to worry if its aluminium or chinesium. while the bolt on kind actually take alot of both compression and tension forces... Slip on washer type is better if you have long enaugh studs/bolts. I ran 25mm washer style on my old VW bus, had 65mm studs and torqued to spec, no problems on road or offroad for years... have a new bus now and want to do the same, but have to measure a bit to find out if 15, 20 or 25mm will be best with the wheels I got..
@@RenaxTM91 you and milos arent thinking it through the shorter lug bolts on the bolt on spacers physicly cannot flex. a first year engineering student cant explain to you why you are wrong and back it up with math. but ask yourself, why would a lug stud threaded into a spacer block be any differant than the lugs threaded into the brake disc? how could it? they should be the correct length for the wheel, so would react to load exactly as the stock no spacer set up. as for the mounting studs, same thing. they are made exactly as though you were bolting on a wheel, then you bolt the wheel to that. also the cars you are using as comparrison are weak and light, so the problems you are talking about wont ever happen to you in either configuration.
We debated this back in the 60s/70s. A concern you didn't address is that when extending wheels further out, they can cause more stress and wear to the wheel bearings. Imagine extending them out 12 inches, and the stress it would cause on the bearings and the axle. Although I doubt if a few mms would have much effect, it's still something to consider.
Exactly. There are even specific calculations that show the life of said, bearing and how it incrementally decreases due to the angle overage from stock.
Optimally if you stay within 80% of bearing life the spacers are worth it. Sometimes there are abnormalities and some wheelbearings just don’t go out in their specified lifespan.
Using spacers on your front wheels can pose a problem with the steering geometry so it's best to go for as little as possible you need to check what kind of offsets are acceptable on your car. It's in your specifications somewhere. The centers of the patch your tire puts on the ground needs to be a certain distance within tolerances from the hub assembly.
6+ months on my E90 running 25mm spacers. Still no issues.. After a year of spacers , no issues. Note ;After 1,5 years or so the only problem that I had was that the spacers got stuck on the hub so removing them was a bit hard but nothing to worry about on the safety aspect.
space shuttle ..103 missions on o'rings for fuel then o rings fail because the temperature was to low. One variable and KAPOWWWWWW... no thankyou, I drive like a madman and dying because of a $200.00 non compliant part is not in my game plan.we arnt talking about carpet or a phone charger...you are talking about your connection to the earth and the only stability you have...go buy some tires with no name on them, some scooby doo brake pads....don't die cause you want to fill up your wheel well.
Too each their own. I drive pretty recklessly too with the pot hole ridden & unleveled, steel plate covered roads here when traffic is bad & they’ve held up just fine over the 3 years I’ve owned them. Ran them on 2 different cars, a ‘06 Mazda6 & my current ‘13 Mazda3 hatch. Usually inspect them twice a month when I have the wheels off the car for warping, cracks, bent studs or just anything unusual.
I currently run 50mm spacers on a ford capri and have done for 3 years with no issues but like said I researched them, made from billet steel with hubcentric rings, there was no major change to the wheel location
This is exactly why ' do it right , or do it twice, ' is my number 1 rule. I only use quality products on my car. I dont have much money for quality parts so it's taking me a lot longer to get where I want it, but I will not cheap out. Was looking into spacers so I can run 5x120 and the FK Type R wheels on my FB6.
I had a 1988 Cadillac El-Dorado with Sapphire Candypaint on airbags (it is fwd, wasnt wasting money on hydros) sitting on 13” hundred spoke vogues with 2 inch spacers and when i got sideswiped by an SUV the spacers had the wheels sticking out so far the only damage to my entire ride was two big gashes in the rims and a snapped tie rod. Not a scratch anywhere on the paint. I will live by wheel spacers until the day i die. Thank you caddy gods🙌
Imho, i just buy wheels and make the body fit them. BUT!, as long as you don't cheap out on spacers, and buy bolt on, hub centric, etc, i think it will be fine.
On a truck I can say I have seen them tear apart on HD trucks. They can get a lot of stress and no matter how properly they are attached. In my opinion they are not designed for high load bearing applications. On a car or light load bearing application I have never seen an issue. For trucks I recommend slip-on style spacers and longer studs to accommodate the extra spacing.
@@osborney1951 I have spacer on my RX7 for 6 years now. No wheel or bearing problem. Is that long enough? get quality spacer and check it periodically. You won't have problem.
I knew one dude that had like 3 spacers in the back for his "wide body" 350z. Nothing ever happened to him... I think. He still has the same car but 3 piece wheels nowadays.
I ran spacers for years on my slammed Ranger without any issues...I ran fwd wheels on a rwd truck even drove out of town a few times and I drove it hard daily
Good video and spot on. I’ve been using spacers on a variety of vehicles for over 20lbs to get that perfect look. Another tip, I always use thread lock on nut that secure the spacer to the vehicle’s hub and use a torque wrench. Buy quality and hub centric gents.
Hub centric spacers are safe. I think you should only go at least 25mm+ for the spacers that come with their own lug nuts. As for slip ons, I wouldn't go over ~7mm or so without extended studs installed. That's just my take on it though.
I ran 20mm spacers on my G in the rear with extended studs and made sure to get them from a reputable company. The overall concept of using spacers is safe, you just have to make sure it's done right. If you do it right, there shouldn't be any issues with running spacers (within reason).
What great aim. From across the hwy, down the median, and a perfect head shot. Let's not forget that the target and shooter both was i motion . Talk about a difficult shot and if he lived the sharpshooter needs better tires.
So much stuff I didn’t know about cars and how to go about modifications. You guys are literally saving millions of dollars, lives, and teaching uneducated people things they need to know about their cars.
My brother is one of those people that hates spacers and thinks the moment you put on like a 5 mm slip on spacer to clear the brakes, your motor will explode somehow. Here’s what I think; I always see these track/time attack cars running bolt on spacers and also slip on spacers. As well as almost all of the FD cars, they usually run bolt on spacers. Daigo Saito, he’s been running a 100 mm spacer on his BWM E30 drift car. He’s fine. His turbo LS GTR, dual spacers on the rear and a big spacer on the front. He’s fine. If so many cars that are being abused on the track are doing fantastic with spacers and setting lap record and holding long drifts with their supposedly messed up suspension geometries, I don’t see how spacers can be bad. If you install them correctly and know what you’re doing, you’ll be fine. If you just bolt them on and hope for the best, expect the worst because that’s not all you do when installing them.
Im running 30mm spacers in the back of my RX8 and it doesnt vibrate or anything, even at highway speeds or above! So i think its pretty safe for my part!
Dont listen to the haters and buy good quality parts. My experience with spacers, beforehand car is 69 mustang restomod with 351w, lots of suspension/steering/chassis mods, continental extreme contact tires, 1.5" aluminum wheel adapters (noncentric) with late model 17x8 gt wheels. Over 7 years I have had ZERO problems and I promise I drive my car hard especially in corners. I always step-torqued the spacers to hubs to incrementally tighten the lugs and did the same with the wheels. I wasn't running top of the line stuff but made sure to go with a reputable company.
It would be cool since you guys sell wheels. To have a video explaining what to look for when looking at rims. I don't mean offset, width, etc. But certificates, standards, materials, etc. To make sure that the wheels you're buying are actually safe regardless of them being low cost, replicas or coming from brands you never heard of. Of course the wheels you sell are proven and from "known" brands. But not everyone is from the US.
I never understood spacers because I figured everyone would want to buy proper wheels that fit their car, but after this video I can understand why people use spacers. Personally, I want wheels that just fit because my motto is the more mods you have installed, the more room you have for error!
I got a staggered set of 22s for $200 I got a set of Rohana RC10 for $150 and a set of 2013 mustang wheels…….. none of them fit my car without spacers but they were all good deals I couldn’t beat
Dad runs spacers on the oval track race car. We use them to change the setup. If we’ve been using the same spacers for many years without needing to buy new ones, even with all the stress and g force, I’m sure you’ll be fine
do a video on how the car scene has evolved throughout the years. i was looking through some old tuner magazines dating back from the mid 90s to today, and its really cool because its like a time machine in where you can see year by year how it changed and how a lot of the things people give shit to are some of the very things that we are starting to see come back in style.
I've got 2 inch spacers on my 99 4runner with a 3 inch lift, 33 inch tires, and steel front and rear bumpers. Even with all the extra weight and mods that change the way it rides I've had no issues even while rock crawling in Colorado. If they are hubcentric and installed right they don't cause any issues.
Just measure two or three times and then triple check to make sure if you are buying a big brake kit, make sure the offset has clearance, then triple check the rims you are buying has the right offset to fit everything. If the rims you want don't have the right offset, just find another set. All that checking should eliminate spacers all together.
I bought some wheel spacers way back in 8/2023, It was one of the last purchases I needed for the cosmetic portion of my car that I needed to buy. I have been weary of using them this whole time, contemplating if I should use them or just buy new wheels. I would like to keep the 5 spoke rims I have now and go bigger on tire size but I would have to buy new rims for that anyway. After some research I found that the spacers I bought should be good quality and they have good reviews ( which is probably why I bought them.)
I’m going to get so much hate for saying this, but some spacers (the expensive ones) are okey to drive to your local supermarket however, they are not optimal for driving. And I’m not the type of guy that buys a car just to “park it” with the bottom floor on the ground, cars are meant to be driven! Not parked!
Fact is, the hub centric rings do not bear a load. The weight of the vehicle is actually supported by the friction between the wheel and its mounting surface on the axle. The friction is established and maintained once the lug hardware is properly installed and torqued to specs. If the hub was to carry any weight it would have been pressed on with a machine.
T6061 is actually considered a medium strength alloy. 7000 series is considered aircraft aluminum strength I worked in the aluminum industry for 15 years and Know a little bit about metallurgy, I'm not saying t6061 isn't strong enough it's just not aircraft grade.
I was a mechanic for years. I had a car with them didn't like them, they kept loosening up. I say buy wheels that fit, or as they say ride it till the wheels fall off, literally.
I ran quality 2.5" billet spacers on my truck for 3 years. No issues..... besides slowly ruining all of my bushings and having to replace my hub/bearing assemblies. The change is geometry really does accelerate wear. But if installed correctly, nothing happens over-night.
In my last job I was deeply involved in the DVPNR (Design Verification Plan and Report) with an OEM on their factory wheels. After seeing the level of design, robustness, testing and validation going into OEM wheels, I decided I will NEVER, NEVER put anything other than OEM wheels and OEM Offsets. Absolutely no WAY I'll put cheap eBay / Amazon special price on sale crap because they look cool. I'll much rather pull OEM wheels from Junk yard, than buy an aftermarket wheel.
I have 20mm spacer on stock 2018 civic Si wheels and love the way they make my wheels sit flush. I torqued them to 30ft lbs on stock studs and then put the wheel on and torqued them onto the spacer to 80 ft lbs while car was on the ground. I’ve done 117mph on them and everything seems fine. No vibrations. Spacers are forged aluminum with 10.9 grade bolts. Also pro tip always torque your wheels when your car is ON the ground not in the air or you won’t get the right torq spec.
Dude, 30ftlbs is flatout dangerous. Not looking to get into an argument, but read up on normal torque specs for aluminum wheels and torque your spacers more!
At my local autocross there was a guy with a Miata running "lightweight" aluminum lugnuts and R-compound tires. On one of his runs a wheel got ripped off the car and went rolling down the track. Turns out the lateral force literally stripped the threads out of his lugnuts. Looking at the wheel studs you could see the aluminum threads still inside the wheel stud threads.
I’m running 2 inch eBay Specials, They are hubcentric. I’ve been running them for like eight months I’ve torqued them down, recheck them every so often. Daily driver.
Remove all rust and dirt from mating surfaces. If not, the rust/ dirt gets removed as driving happens and now the torque set is off and/or a gap between mating parts. This is a cause for catastrophic failure.
The bearings of most cars should easily take the abuse without a problem. The bigger problem in my opinion are the effects on the cars handling. I had 15mm spacers installed in my car (from the previous owner) and after I remove them, the car felt ALOT better on the road. The steering wasn't as hard and it also returned to the center position properly, as well as the suspension behaving more smoothly and not rock hard.
huh? --spacers give your wheels a longer "moment arm" from the car, thereby giving the effect of *softer* suspension, not harder. They also shouldn't affect the steering much, as the wheels themselves still turn the same amount. I think you have placebo effect.
@@user-ms2mr2mc3g ""moment arm" from the car, thereby giving the effect of softer suspension, not harder. " - That would likely be the case on double wishbone suspensions, where the shocks are mounted to the wishbone. My car had macpherson struts at the front, where the shocks are direct connected to the steering knuckle. The problem here is: with a wheel spacer, the impulses from the wheel arent alined with the shocks travel direction, which hinders smoothing them out. "They also shouldn't affect the steering much, as the wheels themselves still turn the same amount. " - Because the wheels are further out, the steering point will travel more to the inward side of the wheel. Depending on how the car is setup, this can cause issues, because the forces from accelerating and braking have a bigger leverage. Under throttle, the steering wheel would turn inward and not straighten out on its own. " I think you have placebo effect." - Had 2 different people drive with me afterwards and both asked if I had done something to the suspension, because the car felt better.
How much oversize tire over stock are you planning on running is the key !…within 1 to 2 over stock tire usually don’t require any mods as long as you stay within factor rim offset and rim diameter…getting crazy with offset( deep dish ) and extra wide rims with extra wide and tall tires is where all the problems , lift kits, fender mods, shorter turning radius and increased bearing wear come into play..not to forget tires sticking way out of fenders and kicking up rocks on fenders and side of truck including vehicles behind you…chose tire sizes wisely…it’ll boil down to how much you’d be paying in the end !
well i ran cheap ebay wheel spacers, and ran it offroad, towed and all kinds of stuff that you might say not to do, and yes they were 1.5". ran fine for 5 years and the guy that bought it ran it was woods truck then a plow truck for 5 more now.
Another thing to understand is that putting your tire contact patch further away from your steering Knuckles adds to the moment arm of the torque on the knuckles. This force is delivered to your tie rods and steering rack. It also changes the leverage on your springs and shocks. The engineers thought about all of this when designing your suspension items and how strong the mounts for the rack and the size of the tie rods ends needed to be. Add the more aggressive driving on the track to the situation which is going to stress these components more than average and it will cause them to wear out faster. Control arm bushings, ball joints, strut mounts, etc. Think everything you have holding the tires on the car and in alignment. Then you have your wheel bearings to turn to dust with overloading the axles. Now, how important is it to just "look" cool with your tires pushed out, oversized or both. I have not even begun to talk about the effect on your speedometer or correcting for the big tires. When you go too big, you have problems with your gear ratios which can really change the amount of power to the road on acceleration and your gas mileage is worse with bigger fatter tires. There is only so much you can go for and you had better know what you are doing or it will get real expensive and/or dangerous. After you make all these changes to stock components are you going to take it out and push it to the limits of its performance so you know how it handles in an emergency situation or finds out at the last minute by surprise? If it is your intention to be a motorsports enthusiast, get educated and learn about risk and reward for every item you want to change. I love cars, have had a lot of them, mostly sporty and have found out a lot of things the hard way. With the internet and forums for just about every worthwhile sports car, you will find out things you never even thought about and avoid some really bad consequences.
You make me not ride my car anymore :)) After I'm done watching your videos I'm like... dude, wtf have I done? But still appreciate a lot what you're doing. Keep it up!
1”1/2 inch spacers on my trailblazer, i’ve gotten air off-road in that thing and they are absolutely fine. with any parts in general, don’t go cheap. you get what you pay for
I would be more worried about the replica aluminum wheels of unknown quality before I'd worry about a spacer. More instances of cheap wheels breaking than there are wheel adapters.
I’ve run 10mm spacers on the rear of my Scion xB for over 12years. No issues other than needing new tires every other year lol. I have 15x7.5” konig wheels. Spacers add too premature tire wear for sure. Got too look cool tho!
Should really give bigger emphasis on hub and wheel centric spacers. If they aren’t you can also buy hub rings to center them but either solution is vital.
I would like a whole video dedicate toward this topic - Stanced wheel traction, vs normal wheel fitment traction. Overall, which is better for performance?
REIH Dude, no one stances their car for performance reasons. It’s crap for tire wear and grip. It’s a purely aesthetic wheel and suspension setup when you stance your car.
I like hub-centric spacers they are no different than the hub itself. You need to buy the ones rated for your application IE weight and tensile strength. If it bolts directly to the stock hub and can sit flush, you should have no issue.
I have 20mm hub centric spacers on the back of my leon cupra and 15mm on the front from precision, had them on almost a year never had any issue with them, they came with longer wheel bolts to compensate, never had any irratic vibrations or noises from them, so I would have a look at precision, the whole kit was just over £100
I just ordered $2k wheels last night for my S2000 and I’m praying they fit. I went 17x8 +45 all the way around and I’m worried I might need spacers in the rear
Apply this general rule to most car parts and you should be fine... 1. Buy quality parts. (Trusted name brand, quality materials, properly manufactured, warrantied/guaranteed) 2. Buy the proper part. (Correct size/material, compatible with other parts/build/assembly) 3. Install properly. (Correct order of install, quality hardware [nuts/bolts], correct torque specs for bolt ons) That being said, stupidity and/or ignorance can trump anything.
Has spacers on my old sports car and me daily Subaru beater. Just got some 2” spacer for my brand new ATV and 10 yeas of having spacers I had no issues. When I do tire rotation or anytime I work on the vehicle taking off the wheels I always inspect and check the toque on them.
the thick ones that you see on trucks really do a number on the suspension and wheel bearings because your putting the load farther away, like using a breaker bar instead of a small ratchet
