Do NOT Buy Wheel Spacers || Watch First 

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That comment right there is the embodiment of this entire channel...

Is like Don’t buy it !!! But is nice to have it 😂

Swear. Something told me it was gonna be like that before I even clicked on it to.🤦‍♂️

Thanks. Saved me 8 minutes. Lol

Not all hero’s wear capes, Thank You !

Thank you! Saved me from wasting time on an infomercial.

thanks xdddd

Thanks man… *exits video*

Hi Zachary. Did you have to grind off any of the stock studs so your wheels sit flush? I have a 2020 Tacoma with Method MR702 wheels and looking to install the .75" spacers as well. My tires are 33x12.5x17 BFGs and they slightly rub on the mud guards when turning. Do you know if pushing the wheel and tires out will help with the rubbing or make it worse?

@@michaelhull7443 oh it'll make it worse. I'd just take the mud flaps off on the front. And no, I didn't have to cut the studs on the spacers. If you take a tire off, check the back of the rim in between the stud holes and if there's an indent there, you should be good!

what about teraflex spacers?

@@youtubetv1588 I can't speak to them, I only have experience with bora. I've heard from multiple sources that spidertrax, I think that's the name,and bora are the way to go because you don't want to go cheap.

I have an update to my original comment. I've actually upgraded my wheel spacers to 1.25", same brand, Bora. I've also added .5" strut spacers on the front which brought the front end closer to the rear, so now the front and rear have about 2.5" lift. Once I added the strut spacers to the front it pretty much eliminated 95% of the rubbing I'd get at the back of the fenderwell of the front end. It would happen pretty much any time I turned, without fail. Now it only happens if I'm fully turned and hit a large enough bump. I'm running the same tires as before as well. The strut spacers are the only change.

That’s because Bora pays these guys. And they’re usually dealers for them.

How often do you retourque. Is every two weeks cool instead of 100 miles

@@crush9197 just ~100 miles is what I did

Elaborate on the maintain them correctly part please

​@@rodricuslagroon Take them off whenever they're dirty and clean off the surface, Make sure no rust forms on the surface between the rotor and spacer. Thread lock, hit it with brake cleaner.

I just put a 1.5" inch level lift on my 2021 BS. I wanted to put 245/65R18. But they don't have 65's to fit on 18 inch rims, only 65R17. So I went with 245/60R18 Wild Peak AT Trails

I have 30mm KSP also for my Subaru Forester. I saw they seemed to have good feedback on the Tacoma forums and they're hubcentric so I grabbed them. A few weeks ago. Gotta throw them on soon!

This comment is all the reassurance I need lol

You could definitely run the same specs for the front and back. I would check out some of the builds in our gallery first to see what setups you like the most and follow those pretty identically! www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/wheel-offset-gallery?sort=yno&year=2010&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado%201500&drive=4WD

@John Elliott >John, as a retired ASE master tech, I have seen many engineering changes. Some good, some not. The rear if a straight axle has a robust needle bearing for some, but it comes down to service. If you go to Rock Auto and see your front bearings as a one piece bolt on assembly, the bearing are not grease-able. This bothers me as frequent checks for looseness, noise, odd handling. Technically they are subject to higher loads as if using a cheater bar to lift something. A spring, coil over or torsion bar, the point where the lower control are mounts is the pivot. The ball joint is the length of that lever. Most “Springs” are a 2:1 ratio, so adding, say two inches w/spacer or wheel offset more negative (As seen by the wheels center) changes this load increasing it say 2.5:1 ratio. This amplifies loads on the power steering gear and all other moving parts. Some parts may wear quicker but simply put, check it more often. Since a bearing hub is sealed, it is very hard to add grease like older designs wear an inner or out bearing can be cleaned, inspected, then re-packed with fresh grease. Even in the upper Midwest, like NE., pot holes are horrible as freeze/thaw cycles create craters in the road, just going to work. As for zero scrub, draw a line thru the upper ball joint, thru the lower and raised or not, this imaginary line meets the road in the middle of the tire. This angle changes during turns know as SAI (Steering axis inclination) it is measured on a alignment rack and only if not equal, indicates a bent part! Zero scrub is engineers way of reducing friction, reducing rolling resistance and helps fuel economy. But loads are increased, mileage may drop, you get 45k out of a 60k tire (Note; Trucks have 13mm of tread / cars have 9mm new) but check more often at home, look for loose parts (Trucks have more vertical movement in lower ball joints so don’t let a shop fool you) just plan on having to spend extra money on certain parts that would otherwise last longer. All little effort on your end will keep things safe, happy plus look good. I don’t get a pension but live comfortably broke, but put high quality 2” spaces on my 1967 C10 pickup. But I have C20 (3/4 ton) lower control arms with heavier ball joints and bearing I can inspect, repack and adjust as needed because the wheel I want are not available with a deep off set. If they did, I still have the same additional forces. I hope I helped & not bored you. Just passing my knowledge on this subject. If I need wheel bearings, I spend $18.00 + seal. You spend $130 plus careful to not damage ABS sensor. Same with other parts but you have rubber LCA bushings, mine are metal. Rear bearing, seal, bearing $12 per side with adaptor & slide hammer. You have a captured bearing, requires pressed off, pressed on, cost $140 per side. I wish I could work or teach like I did for ACDelco in 4hr seminars and two day classes. But no more! Hell, I can mow the yard. Injury not related to working on cars, just stupid boss, I lost. Dude, hope I helped!

Do you rub now or have any fitment issues with how your setup is currently?

I have a 2019 tacoma. I'm thinking of putting spacers on my truck with my stock wheels. Tell me what you think?

Bora makes super good spacers, I have 1.75 on my 2015 Silverado 12 wides

You would be okay, your setup will just be staggered

You could! Are you running any aftermarket wheels or a aftermarket suspension? Or is your Titan stock at the moment?

I don't know if I would even throw spacers on it to be honest! Check out this setup in our gallery they are running some 33" tires with no lift and no spacers and it looks pretty clean still! Would you maybe consider bigger tires or a small lift? www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1363441/2003-chevrolet-silverado-1500-fuel-maverick-oem-stock

I hope someone can answer this I’m oddly curious.

@@AyySpaceship me too, if it helps total weight is 6789 pounds. That’s just as heavy or even lighter than some regular pickup truck duallys that are running spacers

They’ll go right over them just fine I have some on my F150

Im looking for the same 2011 6" lift on 35x12.50s an rubs on sway bar on full turn ,so got some 1.25" spacers also but haven't put them on yet still hesitant lol

Right, that was what I was always thinking.

I've been using the same 1/2. Inch hub centric with titanium studs since my first XJ in 1998. 3 Jeeps later, no problems.

You are exactly right. Spacer with a wheel creates same additional stress on hubs as a wheel with a negative offset matching the spacer. So "don't use spacers, use proper wheel" doesn't mean that buy wheels with crazy negative offset and you are good to go.

Should be something we can help get sent over to you. Just shoot us an email sometime!

I have the same. I went with 1.5” because from looking at pictures of both, the 1.5” is all I need plus I feel like the 1.5” will place less stress on the ball joints and tie rod ends.

@@winchestermodel7044 Thx for info....much appreciated

same here

I personally would upgrade the wheels first before running spacers, but if new wheels aren't in the cards right now then go with the 1" spacer. 😎✌💯

Fastest way to get the best answers would be to contact our customer service team! www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/contact-sales

What brand?

@@tanercomertoglu5236 BORA. No longer have them installed, about 8 months ago found some SRT spider monkey rims I prefer. Nothing beats the wide tire look, I went with OEM 20x10. Bora performed excellently though.

www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/store/spacers

Depends on what kind of stance you are looking for! Did you have any ideas by chance?

It is optional I would say but only as long as you are using quality lugs, and properly torque your wheels with a torque wrench!

So I'm finding this pretty late but yes, a lot the stories you hear is people didn't torque them at all, they tightened them and then never checked them, you gotta torque them to spec on the spacers and the wheels and makes a world of difference

@@ericguttmann2852 Yup.

Wheel shop put on my spacers with the shop gun and did not torque. Will I be ok?

@@out2flip you should be, chances are they over tourqued them, just as long as every thing seems good there should be no problems, check them after a week or 2 just to make sure very thing is good

@@out2flip You should get them tourqued for sure

They can help when it comes to making a full turn!

Glad it was helpful!

My spider Trax were cheaper 🤷

As in are you looking for what size you should go with?

@@TrailBuilt yes

Depends on the size of the setup you are interested in, I really like this Jeep in our gallery and they are running 1.75" spacers! I would check out some of the other Wrangler's in our gallery to see what spacer size setup you like the most! www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1175854/2015-jeep-wrangler-fuel-battle-axe-teraflex-suspension-lift-25in

What brand of spacers?

Bet

What brand?

Check out our prices here: www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/store/spacers

@@TrailBuilt any challenger spacers

You have them all around?

We need answers 🧐

@@Calbear707trees Yea all 4 corners.

Can add it to the list!

lot more effort to pound out every stud and install new studs, turns labor intensive job into a simple bolt on.

You win 😂😂😂

Yes, they are!

I don’t go faster then 65mph (70mph on flat roads) anything more then that and my MPGs go straight down the crapper, but I have a JK and Wranglers already have horrible MPGs as it is. Luckily I’m retired so I don’t have to be anywhere for anyone at anytime, so I just enjoy the drive.

Sometimes the wheels and tires that people want are not available for months on end. This is definitely a good alternative!

I just bought 1.5" hub centric spacers for my 2016 Wrangler online for $200 for a set of four. Not from Bora Bora. 😂

Decent aftermarket wheels $1200 plus. Some people like their stock wheels with added offset of spacers is WAY cheaper than nee wheels.

Take spacers off before you take it to the shop

Only 2 inch + spacers. Less than that and it really isn't a big deal.