Are you destroying your LCD screen when resin 3d printing?? Learn what settings may be doing it... 

Now this is a great discussion! I now need to go back through and relook at my printer settings to help try and save on my screens!

When did Vin Diesel get so good at 3D printing and start doing these videos?

I'm new to resin, only been printing SLA for about a week; but veteran FDM guy. You have been a patron Saint to resin printing for me. I'm using all of your support settings and I do 4-5 bottom layers at no more than 6x my normal exposure times. Since doing that I no longer need a jack hammer to release my prints and they all turn out amazing!

Feeling extremely called out by this video. 😂

I wish I had seen this 3 days ago when I just got my Photon Mono X. In 3 days of following many examples, I have found almost nobody knows anything with any certainty. I now have a gouge in my bed plate where an 80 second bottom layer exposure, cooked a raft on that required extreme chiseling at it to remove it. My FEP is scratched by tissue paper from cleaning, and has many marks where parts had been cooked onto it, and a couple of failures that attached to the FEP so well I marked up the FEP with the plastic spatula.

Thank you for this video! After watching it I changed the settings on both my new Mars 2 Pros and my Original Mars Pros. Reduced my Mars Pros to 60 seconds (from 75) and down to 4 layers from 8. On my Mars 2 Pros I went from 35 second bottom layers to 12 seconds and 4 layers from 8. The settings work great! I used to have to almost hammer the prints off the Mars 2 Pros and now it is much better. Thanks again!

I've used your settings for the photon with elegoo grey for since i started this journey... have reduced to 5 bottom layers @ 55sec without any issues at all. Love what you're doing you're channel is my #1 recommended resource for new resin 3d printers

I am on an Elegoo Mars and when printing smaller items on the plate and multiple, they do not stick. I am currently running a trial of 5 layers at 100s. 5 layers at 20/30/40/50/60/70 didnt work. Normal exposure time is 8s so going by X12 I should be at 96 max. Pulling my hair out with the lack of adhesion. :(

Definitely going to switch my settings immediately. I've been forced to overexpose just a bit at 9.25 seconds (normal exposure) for elegoo grey on a standard mars. This pretty much insures success even on the most sensitive pre-supported patreons. However, my bottom layers remain at 8 and 70 seconds! After watching this I realize I might be overdoing it a bit. My printer is only a few weeks old so I'm very happy to have found this info early on! Many thanks my friend, and I am looking forward to the final days of your kickstarter. I backed that one without hesitation, keep up the great work!

Whoops I've been doing 8 layers at 120s on my anycubic photon.

Since you mention some reservations about broaching this subject, for what it's worth this was extremely helpful for me to hear as a newcomer to 3d. I haven't cleared my first month of SLA printing yet and as you mention, most conventional wisdom seems to favor brutal exposure times which for me has just resulted in prints stuck so hard to the build plate I practically have to chisel them off. Not knowing any better I've simply been grateful to the Micro Center employee who encouraged me to purchase a flex plate. In the last couple weeks I have contemplated reducing exposure time only to conclude this must be poorly reasoned newbie impulses at work-and the result has been prints on unreasonably tall supports that I can just break off without damaging the important bit when I begin excavating the build plate. I assumed everybody must be putting up with this and it's just a cost-of-doing-business thing. So this video helped me understand a bit more of the mechanics and settings, and also realize that if I'm questioning something it might warrant more research to determine if a specific piece of advice is actually right for my particular scenario. Thanks!

The stock settings in the photon Mono X manual states 40sec bottom time exposure and 1.5sec for anycubic resin. Any thoughts on this ? I printed the sample cube with their loooong 40sec exposure time and it printed perfectly - but id rather save the machines LCD if possible

Gotta say, even 55 seconds seems a bit high. Most of my bottom layers are

The resin can heat up past 200C when exposed to UV, if only for a moment during the curing. It generally doesn't when curing through the LCD, but if you have some on your hand or gloves while swapping screens and the light ticks on you'll know....

This video was recommended to me in a timely manner, had just had a few failures so was contemplating jacking up the bottom layers and exposure time. Thanks for the warning.

Gonna experiment with the mini 4k right now. I had a suspicion my base exposure times were too high because sometimes prints were sticking *too* well to the build plate. I'll report back with my results.... EDIT! follow up below: I have tried a few times now, and 5 base layers with a bottom layer exposure time of 10 seconds gives me a good amount of adhesion while also allowing prints come off very nicely. Thanks for the tip Greg!

Seems like bigger bases need less exposure on the first layers because the surface area they cover takes more face to remove when applying vertical force. The smaller the base, the less vertical force it would take to remove, and the more you need it to stick, thus higher exposure times. Also, the number of layers most likely depends on your layer height. The thicker the layers, the less number of them you need. There is a relation to all these settings and really the slicer software should be able to lock them together as they do with scaling ratios as an option (check box).

I have had a bit of resin on a glove I was wearing and went to move something on my curing plate and had the resin start to cure on my glove and it felt like putting my hand next to a campfire. I yanked my hand back and realized what had happened and started laughing, it got hot quick.

It really depends of the resin. I e had resin that’s hard to remove at 55sec and then the next resin falls off at 85 sec. it’s very frustrating

great video. I learned the hard way after burning two screens. I didn't know the importance of the light off time in addition to the bottom layer exposure time.

Oh wow thanks I’m new to 3D printing and I had high exposure like 115 thanks for the advice I could’ve screwed up my printer but luckily I came across your video

Additional bottom layers don't make sense to me. The first bottom layer sticks to the plate so why do you need additional layers that are sticking to the first layer. How are layers 2, 3, 4 etc. helping adhesion when they aren't actually sticking to the plate. What am I missing here?

So what would anyone recommend for the mars 2 pro?

Thank you for this! I tried your suggestion with a little apprehension, but it worked for me! I had always just used the default of 60s per bottom layer but now I can save half the time with my resin. Again thanks!

This wasn't the video I was looking for (somehow got here after trying to find if I need to replace my FEP yet or not) but this is absolutely the information I needed to know in the long run. I recently turned my settings up to match someone else because I was having issues with printing, glad to know it could cause harm. And I'm pretty sure the issues I am having with my prints are more due to rising speed anyway. Thanks for the vid.

On my sonic mini, I've been using a 3.5s exposure time and 4 bottom layers for a while now, but with a 25 second bottom layer exposure time (6.25x). No issues, at all. I'm going to try setting it to 18, to get it closer to 5x the normal exposure time, and see how it goes. Thanks for the video!

It would be great to create a data sheet like the Virtual Desktop VR Game Experience Database, with different resin brands and 3d printer makers, it would be a pain to filter but if the community helps, it might be doable

I use 6 layers @ 30 seconds exposure time. I've NEVER had a single print regardless of size de-laminate from the build plate even when printing very large, full-plate pieces (using a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro monoscreen). The bottom layers stick very well, but still can be removed easily with a *sharp* metal spatula without any prying or chiseling. I've printed probably 300+ models on the exact same build plate. 100+ second burn-in layers will definitely cause some extra adhesion to the FEP - there's no need for that whatsoever.

Any "community standards" I've tried ruined the details on my minis and adhered them to the build plate like they're welded on. For the Mars 2 Pro at least, shorter times for normal exposure and bottom layer are so much better.

On my EPAX x10 mono the factory recommended bottom exposure time was 25+ seconds. I believe Greg runs as low as 14, but I was having some issues that low, and I’ve lowered my normal prints to 20 seconds / 4 layers, and it’s been consistently working perfectly for about 30 hours now.

You have had the most informative channel for Resin printing and just want to say thank you for doing what you do. I new to this and you've made my transition from FDM so much smoother. Plus I like how "Real" you are about each subject and not to "Sciency" LoL Just got the new Photon Mono and loving what this machine can do and how much faster it prints compared to the LDR002.

It's really great that you made this video, but the unfortunate truth is that most people using 3d printers have no idea how they work, and no interest in tweaking settings. They just go online and copy someone else's settings. Almost none of them will ever try to calibrate themselves, and when they invariably end up welding their prints to the plate, many of them run out a buy a flexible build plate like that whambam refrigerator magnet or some other gimmick thinking that's what you have to do.

just got my first SLA printer (Photon Mono X), saw this video and been testing today. final setting have been bottom exposure: 30, bottom layer: 5 with a 1.8-2.2 normal exposure time. i was initially doing 2.2 normal, 50-60 bottom exposure and 8 bottom layers. thanks for the great advice!

I'm at 80s bottom layer time with 10s normal exposure time. I started at 60s bottom layer time and increased to 70, then 80 and now I get very few failures and prints scrape off pretty easily. I have 6 bottom layers and have been thinking about reducing this - now maybe I will go to 4 I've actually been wondering why anyone would need to do more than 1 bottom layer? There's only 1 layer that's sticks to the plate and if it doesn't stick, then the 2nd layer isn't going to stick also!

Hi, im rather new to resin printing and this was very helpfull -> Thank you! Dropped my bottem layer settings from 6 layers, 30 secs to 5 layers 15 sec on a 2.5 sec cure-time for normal layers on a Anycubic M3 Max.. Thank you for saving me from possible disasters. I will try and see how much further i can drop the bottem layer settings :)

What about changing the no of bottom layers based on the layer height. I normally double the layers for .02 vs .05

Subbed! I saw Azrael/Batman in the background. Not too many people know much about him, much less have him hanging on the wall. Lol!

Im using a Mars 2 Pro with a mono screen, and normally Elegoo water washable resin. Elegoos reccd settings are 5 layer base exposed at 35 secs, then 2 secs a layer. Seems to work sweet as a nut for me even with "big chunky" prints that have a lot of surface to lift. Great base adhesion, no base peel, but clicks right off with a nudge at the edge at the end of the run. Water washable has different settings to normal resin so the settings for normal would be different. The 2 Pro Mono is a massive step forward IMHO....very impressed.

I typically follow the recommendations of the bottle, starting at the lowest recommended settings. Example I use eco white resin from Anycubic a lot. Their recommendation for layer exposure is 3-15 seconds. I've found for my Anycubic Photon Mono 2k that 3 sec let prints melt into themselves, 12 secs had supports cracking miniatures when removing them and 9 secs ending up curing it enough to easily remove supports and prevent parts of the mini from sagging. so 9 secs for layer with 6 base layers at 35 seconds on eco resin is my sweet spot for my specific printer. I have some regular grey resin I need to use up and that i run the same base layers and time but layer exposure is turned down to 2 secs. After this video I may lower the bottom layer count just to try it but 6 is working well so no burning desire to change settings. I typically look at online forums, spreadsheets and compare that to the recommendations on the bottles. But again I simply look as a reference, I'm using the lowest recommendation on the bottle and increasing from there as needed. I test print a miniature base that has a large spike sticking out of it because this helps me check supports and if the layer cure time is long enough, if its too short then the large spike will collapse back down into the base. This is just how I do it, I've only been printing since Christmas so grain of salt but it works for me.

Using Saturn S and increased to 10 bottom layers at 30 seconds based on advice from reddit. Changing it to 5 bottom layers and 18.30 (6x the 3.05 exposure time). If it doesn't work, I'll complain :D

Thanks for your tips! I have an AnyCubic Photon Mono (NOT SE/X). Does anyone watching this has the same printer? If so, please share with me your printing settings and tips. Thanks!

Ok my friend. i have spent 2kg of resin by anycubic grey basic. I tried your advice and i just almost loose my mind to be hoenst to make anything work with 4 bottom layers and 8 times the exposure time. I cried, i felt i was going insane, because how would this setting that an expert usese wont work for me. im sorry but i cant go anything lower than 30 seconds for bottom lyers and maybe 10 for some fucking reason the 4 BL and 8 times exposure or 10 that you siggested never worked. it just didnt work. M3 MAX Anycubic, please dont try this settings, it was bad for my mental health

You're a lifesaver!!! I'm still only a few weeks in, and only just got prints to stop sticking to the FEP literally like 3 days ago. One of the things I tried in my desperation was to increase exposure times. Upon reading someone's reddit post, I increased my bottom layer from Elegoo's recommended 35 seconds for this resin, to... 90!!! Luckily I've only done 3 prints with this setting so far-- this video came at a perfect time! I'm going back to Elegoo's "official" recommendation of 35 seconds for the time being, then when I'm more experienced and my prints are less likely to fail, I'll drop it lower. Thank you!! I'm surprised this isn't talked about more!!!

EXCELLENT POINT John! In addition (from the source:-) I would like to add. Three (3) long exposure layers are more than enough. If anyone has a non-sticking issue I urge you to increase the "elephant foot" or the "raft". Basically you should increase the area of the first three layers. Let's say that you should build a island on which you're going to build your model. Now, time wise... Everything that is more than 4-times more than a normal layer is OVERKILL and DANGEROUS!!!!! Let's examine a bit a mechanism of photo-polymerization. As said number of times polymerization is an exothermic reaction. Meaning that during the transition from liquid to solid state a LOTS of heat is generated from your resin alone! Now to that heat add the heat from UV irradiation and you have troubles on two fronts! One being your LCD ant the other being your FEP film. FEP film is ALREADY under stress because is under tension. When you heat it you make it softer and more "rubbery"... to the point that you get wrinkles. LCD on the other hand got it's undesirable heat from the bottom from UV irradiation and heat convection from "UV brick/heatsink" and from the top from resin due to polymerization. Think of LCD life as a rubber band. If you stretch it to let's say 60% of the maximum you could do that almost indefinitely. But stretch that band three times to the max extension ...and the fourth time is a goner! GOT IT?!?!? So, bottom line... use max 3-bottom layers, use a large raft , use max 3x normal layer time for the first layers. One trick that we use often is to use a "clean" function for making a first layer! The clean function is a method to expose the entire build area. This way you make a film of cured resin that might grab some residual semi-cured or floating flakes. Of course you engage in a cleaning function without a build plate. The trick is to lower your build plate to the bottom. Perform a cleaning exposure and then you proceed with your usual printing with a cured first layer already on your build plate.

Starting my 3D printing adventure with a Mars 2 Pro and Elegoo water washable solid red. Any quick suggestions for a beginner?

Elegoo saturn has only 5 bottom layers at just 5s exposure time, normal exposure is 2.5 but I changed it just 2s! What's crazy is the mono x comes by default with 8 layers at 40s and the lift speed is way to fast 140ms and 240ms, its ridiculous my original mono x had problems with the z motor after just 13 weeks they sent out a replacement I need to fit it tomorrow to see if its fixed the problem! I have 2 mono x and a saturn I picked up on prime day for £300 didn't need another one but at that price I couldn't help myself lol, anyway side by side the saturn has better parts at a cheaper price! Guess elegoo isn't as greedy as anycubic

Wish I saw this video before I started printing a week ago. I knew my times were too high but the big difference and other people advise threw me off. You sir are a legend, please keep up uploading videos like this. Thanks so much!!!!!

I use elegoo grey resin on a longer orange 30. My standard layer time is 8 seconds. When I was running 6 bottom layers with 60 second exposure time I was having a large problem with the lower parts of the minis warping or the prints failing completely. I upped the exposure time to 80 seconds and haven't had a failed print or warping problem since. I'm experimenting with fewer bottom layers but having each layer cover more of the build plate with an adhesion pad.

My bottom exposure is programmed for like a minute and a half for some stupid reason... Lol so i always have to manually adjust it . i put it at 45.. Normaly exposure at 2sec. Wth does exposure off mean though.. Ive been putting it at .2

Photon Mono has 40 sec bottom expo time by default :o

I’m on a Sonic 8k mini s and my burn in layer time is 9seconds and I have to chisel my prints off. Is this normal? Should I go down to around 5 seconds? How can I test the proper burn in layer ?

6top 60bot 50um. M3 Max. Sanded plate. Can’t get to stick any lower. So not sure how you guys are getting it lower. Thing is I don’t print miniatures. I print huge. I take up the entire build volume if I can.. does this matter or impact bottom exposure? Also I use hd gray water washable any cubic resin +

I'm printing small pieces on 30um layers.. the resin I'm using is elegoo 8k standard.. and the printer is a saturn 2. Layer exposure times on that configuration is like.. 1.8 seconds. But the bottom layers, if I multiply that by 5 or 6.. it simply won't do it peels off. So it's on 15 seconds now. Never printed many heavy things with that config yet but the bottom raft layer is pretty soft..

I am just looking into 3d printing and doing a lot of studying. Amazind how much the info differs on printer settings. Just subbed you.

I have Anycubinc mono m5 at our lab. The best normal exposure time I found by calibration is around 2.75-3 Sec with the default resin. Also having 3-4 bottom layers with exposure time of 20 sec works really well for medium samples. If the bottom exposure times is 15, the smaples do not stick. If I have the default settings, sometimes some samples become really hard to get off the bed. Specially if the shapes bottom surface is too flat. Also I think having a very large exposure time for bottom layers will give you a bigger elephant foot effect on initial layers. It may matter to some people that need details on the initial layers for some reason.

I don't get it. I have Normal Exposure 3 and had my Bottom at 30. It kept failing and stuck to the FEP. I yanked it up to 60 and now it runs perfectly. If I went with 5-6 times, I'd be at 15 or 18 which is far below the 30 even. The Anycubic Resin bottle says 20 - 80, even the minimum is higher than 15. What am I missing?? I can only assume either something changed in a year with printers and resin, or I am misunderstanding something, cause even with my 10 Bottom Layers and 60 bottom exposure time the prints are relatively easy to get off the plate afterwards.

My point: If You have a printer with $1000 screen and $40 resin, do less bottom exposure, You can afford reprinting. If You have a printer with $50 screen and $40 resin, do a lot, but when it's not necessary, remember to reduce it If You have a printer with $50 screen and $100 resin, do as much exposure as You can. At this point You should treat LCDs as disposable item. Another point: If You do a 120 seconds of 8 layers like he said in the video, it's still not that bad If You are not using a raft, but that's probably still worse than using using a raft on 60 seconds with 5 layers? BTW I wonder what's the best temperature for printing? I've heard that low temperature is bad, but how about high? I have my printer in kind of a little chamber, because I only have a small flat and I can feel the effects of resin fumes on me. Some food packing foil and a zipper around it, glued to walls of one shelf in my wardrobe. I assume that the temperature in the chamber gets to around 40 celcius, so the resin itself must be pretty warm. I usually did like 10 layers of 70 seconds BTW. And yes, I did manage to seemingly melt/dent my FEP. But it's obviously not on printing miniatures, it's on bigger stuff (this one was a wall of dice tower)

Good stuff. Thanks and kudos. Cheers from Cali! New subscriber.

Very knowledgeable, man...I just got a photon mono x, beautiful machine but I'm having issues with the print starting off ok, but then about 30 to 40 layers in, it starts to stick to the fep. Using chitubox, factory settings are 6 bottom layers with a 40s burn. Getting frustrated until I seen you and Uncle jes droppin some knowledge, maybe there's hope. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. TIA!

Aren’t there two camps here? COLOUR & MONO screen timings?

Great video and lots of wisdom to take advantage of. Think you could share a bit more of numbers please? From the video I gather 6 bottom layers should be more than enough. If my exposure is 2.2 secs then the bottom exposure should be anywhere around 10 to 14 secs. What about transition layers, light off delay, etc?? Thanks for your time

Hi I've watched lots of your videos witch are great I have a anycubic mono X and it won't print anything what does prints is something like wallpaper coming off in a cold wet room if you understand that any idea am a beginner at this??

What would anyone recommend for an Anycubic Mono SQ primarily for 40k stuff?

I recently got to test Anycubic photon mono and Elegoo mars pro. And both of them had recommended to do (also in their testprints its predefined) higher exposure time on first layers. I can understand if they know but do it on purpose, obviously. So ppl keep printing with those. But also resin bottles just came in also say recommended bottom exposure time 60-80 sec. That one I dont understand though. I will try both, but Anycubic Basic Grey failed in Elegoo Mars Pro 6 times for the Rooks, the parts printed always were same thickness before they kept sticking to fep instead of plate. It kinda looks like only first layers of the rook are printed and the force to fep was higher than the force to buildplate, so if 80 secs not enough for me, and this video tells me to reduce even more, it kinda confuses in my case. I dont wanna say its bogus! Not at all. I can only say that its unclear in my case because the issue could be entirely somewhere else. I.e normal exposure. But Im not sure. Ive endup printing them with nova3d instead, same settings. Worked way better than I expected and my jaw dropped. But 2 rooks and 8 circle chips for whatever tabletop needs is result xD So something is off here about resin anyways.

Creality recomended for their own resin I do 2 bottom layers at 70 seconds on the Halot one and that’s worked for me never had a bed adhesion issue. I mean I’ve only been printing for 3 days so it’s all relative lol.

It's just a typical case of people fixing a problem the wrong way. Also before each print I wipe the bottom of my vat with 3 in 1 PTFE lubricant. It did make me a little nervous at first because frankly you cannot hear the first layer pop off the FEP screen. Maybe a little bit if you listen closely but that's it.

Good to know this. I have not printed a model yet as I am researching fully before I print and to try an avoid failure . I am doing my first print tonight. Any tips on using the Anycubic photon 4k with this bottom exposure? Also watched all your vids on supports.

Well mate i would agree with you except for the fact that most resins i have used are 30 seconds minimum. 30 seconds on base layers, 3 seconds on normal. So from the manufacturer thats 10x your normal exposure time. I used 32 seconds and 3.2 for my normal layers atm, had a couple of failed prints last 2 days but that was cause of me over tightening my Fep when i had to replace it for the 1st time myself. I had to up that time when i got my new magnetic build plate. It did not have the beautiful cross hatching my anycubic mono x 6k has. So i had to sand it up a little and pushed my base layers to 40-50 seconds depending on size. If you dont want to cook your screen go for longer times but turn your uv power down to say 85% that has worked for me as well.

So can someone explain to me what I'm seeing at time marker 6:30? If I'm looking at the settings correctly, the light off delay isn't long enough. With the speeds set as they are the minimum light off delay would be 10 seconds or 11 seconds. That light off delay of 7 seconds would have the light coming on during the retract.

I’m starting to see why prints‘ve been failing lately lmao

I hope someone can answer. I have the Kingroon KP6 Mono and Kingroon gave me the perimeters to use on my prints. As this video shows the bottom exposure time is definitely long and the number of levels is outrageous (8). Now I copied every perimeter that he had and my print went from 3 hours to 13 hours! Why is that?

I wish my eye doctor was as honest as you. Just had a bad experience. we have to this procedure that will cost you a little. After... Oh by the way, this isn't something insurance covers. Sorry for not informing you. This crap has been going on more and more.

Good Day Mr Pro. Trust you are well. i am a new printer but brint in the Dentakl fiels. i have run into some problems and not to sure how to get it sorted out. Please can you maybe assist me with this if you have the time. i print with Harz Clear pro 50 micron for surgical guide, it is a very thick resin. I get these funny little nipple like protrusions when i take the supports off, its like a little tent where the support was like the pulling forces are to much. do you maybe have an idea what it could be. any assistance would be appreciated. Thank You

I recently printed a fairly large space ship model with a photon mono x (over 500ml so i had to refill the vat mid print) First attempt was failed due to too few supports 2nd try was a success with iirc 8 layers but only 10 seconds exposure compared to my 3 seconds while printing (solid grey resin because of the first failed Print used up too much of my clear resin for another try) The bottom layers held like a champ

I am using siraya tech fast navy grey. My printer is an epax e10 . I checked the seting from the siraya tech site there recommend settings are 30s initial exposure, 5 layers and 2.5s for the rest on a Mars 2 pro. I could not find settings for the e10. My print room is also at the low end of recommended (20c) the site recommends increasing initial layers exposure time to compensate. I am using 4 initial layers at 25s and 2.5s regular exposure. I have only done 3 prints and no fails but don’t want to destroy my lcd.

Any idea why Elegoo is advising 14 times the normal exposure time for bottom layers in their official resin settings sheet? That's more than double of what you're saying is enough.

i currently have 55 bottom exposure and 4 bottom layer for my phrozen mighty 4k what should i use?

I'm using Photon mono x I need the settings for anycubic resin for dental application. Please guide me I need good details . Is there any special software for Photon Mono X other than chittubox?

So exposure can heat up the screen, but what about when we print in the summer and the ambient is around 90F, with the curing the resin can easily get over 100F. At what point does that start really damaging your screen? Does this apply to mono screens as well?

Dude I had 2 fails last night, stuck to fep screen. I’m trying this tonight. Just small rings I’m printing as practice for supports and what not. Excited to see if it works

Well, that must be why my prints stick so hard (7 layers, 120s). I just used what Siraya said to, but will try lower times.

What would you recommend for a original Anycubic photon? I cant get it to work with such low settings for the life of me. I have to jack up the layers and exposure time

im using the mono x - and the profile chitubox gives me for that has its Bottom Exposure Time set to 40 seconds - this seems mental - is it wrong ??

hello .... I recently bought a phrozen mega 8k .... I bought an anicubic craftsman resin and I still can't find a discreet setting ... I signed up on your facebook group and I will post the problem and the last setting I made .... I hope you will help me solve it .... hello and see you soon on the group ... sorry for my English but I use translator

Okay, I have 30 second bottom layers and have yet to have fails. I can't even imagine 120 seconds.

Great video! I almost destroyed my Photnon Mono X over timing the bottom exposure! Thank you very much!

Hey so I just got my saturn 2 printer and the default settings I think are 25 seconds for bottom layers should I lower that to the 12 or so for my next print? The default I think for mine was either 4 or 5 layers so that's fine but should I lower the bottom exposure setting to 12 from the default?

On my mega sonic 8k using siraya blu resin. 4 bottom layers 9 seconds. 5 second normal layer. I also keep the chamber at 85f using a diy heater.

This group you speak of, what those of us that arnt on Facebook? I'm completely new only successful print was the rook test on my mars 2 pro, but I'm completely lost on these settings and every where you look from RU-vid to reddit has wildly different numbers, I'm bout to try the last ones you threw up on screen and try

Just had a guy in a group post a screenshot of his settings, 8 bottom layers, 70s exposure, 13s exposure for normal layers. He said he got the settings off his bottle of resin, they really need to stop printing those on the bottles. It's insane

45s seem to be good enough for Anycubic mono X 6K haven't had any issues

the firmware of the anycubic mono x adds 10 transition layers no matter what. so I only do 1 ! bottomlayer with 30s in chitubox and it works perfectly fine.

i got my 3d printer a little over a year ago. the first few prints were ok, some messes ups, but over all worked out well. Idk what it is but I'm having the hardest time getting anything to print. I'm going to try some of this tips and hope it helps. 🤞

wow, wish i watched this 3 months ago. moved to 30sec 4 layers on mono x printer, much easier to get stuff off build plate and have had 0 failures

5000 bottom layers and 120 exposure time. why clean and cure when I can do it all from the printer

My prints keep falling unless i have my bottom exposure at at least 110 seconds, what should i do. It took me 10 tries to print one rook

I had it stick to the film when I printed a single print at 50s. It recommends 40 to start and it was peeling a little so I figured...maybe a little tighter. Ooops On a mars2 pro.

Saturn 2 basically requires you to push those bottom layers up to 40 seconds +. Its either a garbage machine or technology got better at handling heat.

I have had a hard time not getting the build plate to stick to the fep, I have adjusted and tried the settings you had here and it still slightly makes that faint "pop" noise, but no rocking or pulling it seems. I have a photon ultra -- any recomendations? Are the settings to same for the photon and the one you are using? Also, should there be a slight noise when it is lifting?

The most i've ever had was 6 layers at around 60-70 seconds at most... i've never had any problems with it... I didn't even know people were upping it to 120 seconds... jeez