Wonderfully edited video! I followed along with your Narsil project recently to make a gift for a friend, and it worked absolutely perfectly with the graphite paint. Working on making a nickel and copper chess set now! Thank you so much for your videos on this relatively niche hobby. I honestly couldn't do it without these guides.
What was the binder you used? Idk where you are, but the linked stuff doesn't ship to my country, nor could I find a chemical name for translation. (Cause when he said 2 part glue, my mind went to epoxy or super glue)
@@Robert-cl8oy I'm having a hard time finding fine enough graphite powder. I have some that is labeled as 400 mesh and it seems to big to use in an airbrush, clogs all the time.
Thank you! It was your channel that stated me down the path of electroplating resin prints, and I've been watching ever since. You do a really good job explaining everything, and the results you have are inspiring. I've been experimenting with graphite conductive paint for months, with very mixed results using everything from different inks and glues as the binder, different amounts of graphite, etc. I also purchased silver conductive paint (really good, but really expensive), and nickel conductive paint (not so conductive and too thick for airbrush). If I could afford silver conductive paint, then I'd always use that. I used your recipe, but couldn't get the same UHU glue locally here in Australia. I substituted with Gorilla Super Glue XL. I think the concept here is it needs to dissolve in solvent so the glue becomes more binding once the Acetone evaporates off. The glue needs to adhere to resin plastic really well, so I went with a super glue. After a few tests, I found the following works best: 40g Acetone 2g Gorilla Super Glue 5g Graphite This only required 2 coats to obtain an even coat of copper. Each coat dried in under a minute (used airbrush to dry the part), and I polished with a cloth and toothbrush between coats. This works well airbrushing or dipping the part. Haven't tried brushing it on yet. I feel I've discovered the holy grail of conductive paint, and all thanks to you. Thanks again. Looking forward to more great content.
Hey I'm also based in Aus and have been having no luck getting my diy paints to go through my .3mm airbrush. Mind letting me know what graphite brand you've found that works?
All the doubts about costs and space requirements and health safety in setting something like this up myself fade away like snow in the sun the moment you put something in that gold bath 😍
The best video I watched in a while! Both the quality of it and the idea it's just perfect. I just wanted to find out how to electroplate a rotor in copper, but stayed for the beauty of your prints!
Amazing video (you deserve more subs!). I have tried plating and I have found that meticulous polishing of graphite, moving the print as it is plating are mandatory, as well as generally taking your time. It is quite an expensive hobby, however, and I wouldn't recommend it to people without the money to spend.
What adhesive do you use in your graphite solution? Is it just essential plastic model glue? An a 2part (A&B) adhesive? Please explain further. Thank you.
Totally beautifull!! ThNks to your pokeball video now I'm in addicted to electroplate 3d prints, two of this are successful, i need more practicce. Now ... i use here in eeuu for do the graphite paint something call it "bulldog" is a liquid plastic adhesive, a little expensive but works amazing, i can brush the piece whit a towel and never peel out... turning more shiny every time and become a lot more conductive 0.1. This help me a lot!! Thanks for you videos and explanations. I'm going to trying now the "gold bait"🦾🦾🦾
I wonder if you can put a pump in the bath and force the solution through a filter and reintroduced into the bath causing a liquid current. That coupled with the rotating part would give better flow of (fresh) solution touching the part.
Hi hendrik ! Be sure your current clippers dont touch your bath or it will contaminate, design your copper to with a lips going higher than the bath ;-)
Do you share the "rotary jig" printing files? I checked your printables profile, but could find it. I would appreciate it! I enjoy your amazing videos since I encoutered them!
Thank you so much! I printed it already and try some tests with the ring. I appreciate your videos so much! I still have some trouble with the power supply. Sometimes it switches from CC to CV and I'm confused. But I hope I will figure this out.
Excellent information! Quick question do you know of a Copper conductive paint that’s available to buy & I can use in my Airbrush? I’ve got a nickel plating setup already. Just looking for best product for the Copper or Graphic conductive coat?? Thanks! Lee
thank you for the detailed and instructive video! Would it be possible for you to share more details about putting together a rotating jig to rotate the prints in the bath? I can’t find instructions on putting it together anywhere- thank you!
Nice video! I have a question. Can they be used for brass plating? I mean, after the copper plating, rinsing them with an alcaline bath with zinc to get them covered with a nice zin plating and then heating them to get the copper migrate to the surface, giving it the golden look typical of brass. If it can be done it would be great for “gold plating” stuff that we don’t really need or want a real gold plating for like props or things like that. All this while being easier and cheaper. Not to get away with gold, it’s just for different uses. Gold is fragile when in 24k form, but if you want really really bright gold you can’t go wrong with real gold
Yes, it’s exactly working as you said. I Never do this as it’s a little hard to handle. I mean, yes it’s cheaper but a quick gold finish isn’t that expensive either.
Do you have links to the particular binder and graphite powders you used? Having mixed results with the brands in using and would really like better stuff.
You could use this binder: amzn.to/44sVm1P this also works but needs time to dissolve: amzn.to/3KZpyui you could get the graphite here: www.graphite-shop.com/de/mikro-graphit-14my-994my-995.html
You have two binder examples from Amazon. One is a cement and the other a two part epoxy. I don't see you mixing a two component before the acetone so I'm guessing it's the cement in your video?
Have you tried printing with ABS and then acetone smoothing the print? It creates an incredibly shiny surface. I feel like this would eliminate some, if not all, of the sanding required before the graphite/copper/whatever spray used to prep for the electrolyte bath.
Far be it for me to question pronounciation...I'm British living in Germany and my German accent is terrible. But,...a friendly pointer. "Brooch" is pronounced "Br-oh-ch" with the "oh" sounding as it would in "oh my god". Fantastic video...I have several pieces I want to plate and will follow your guide,
Yeah, I‘ve struggled with brooch pronouncing. Tons of outakes 😅. Thanks for the correct explanation. Can’t get rid off my German accent, too. Good luck plating!!
How bad would it be if I used a tumbler again for polishing after the copper phase before nickel plating? Would that work or do I have to go with 1000 grit sandpaper?
Hello, exactly which Binder product have you used? The graphite powder and acetone are clear, but there are many Binders and small differences make it impossible to use them with an airbrush.
This could work magic in scale modeling applications but how safe is to do it? how easily you can find all the products needed? I have 0 experience when it comes to chemical and reactions so I'm scared of trying this :))
Your Videos are fantastic. Have you tried a magnetic stirrer to keep the electrolyte moving around the object? I have to plate a large flat object and I can use a long and narrow tank to save on electrolyte but it would not have the space to rotate...
You could use this binder: amzn.to/44sVm1P this also works but needs time to dissolve: amzn.to/3KZpyui you could get the graphite here: www.graphite-shop.com/de/mikro-graphit-14my-994my-995.html
Hello, I love your work. Very delicate with those figurines. I have a carbon fiber spinner, which has a white on the outside. I would love to plate it with a chrome like finish. Its 15 in in diameter and 17 in long. Which steps should I take? Do you think the plating is durable enough to stand the elements?
Hello, I have a question regarding the binder, I have asked local businesses but they do not know what product that is. Could you please send me a link to see that type of product please. It is the only product I need to be able to do the tests! I would appreciate
My silver electrolyte flakes off on copper + nickel. That’s why I apply a thin gold layer. Not all metals are compatible to each other. I‘ll think about explaining this in future videos.
I tried the exact graphite recipe from the same company (4 micron graphite, uhu binder and some pure acetone). The results were not great, it took 6 coats and a light polish with microfibre cloth in between just to get 1.7Kohms. It basically didn't adhere properly to the print so being slightly too rough with the microfibre took it off. A big thank you to one of the commenters here (@Robert-cl8oy) on using 2g Gorilla Super Glue in place of the 1g UHU. It worked perfectly! 1st coat= 3Mohm, 2nd coat =1.3Kohm, 3rd coat= 700ohm. Each layer dried in under a minute and binded really well to the part. Worked well with a 0.4 airbrush.
I don't know what kind of binder would work like what he has, but I have been having great luck with a mixture of just Speedball India Ink and graphite powder. Start with a 50/50 mix then adjust as needed. I did 5 tbsp of ink and 6 tbsp of graphite, worked pretty good, made it through an airbrush no problem, just need to clean the airbrush really good immediately after using. Water works fine for that too which is pretty awesome. Just follow the same steps in the vid, spray, polish, spray, polish etc... for a really good base layer. You are looking for continuity of less than 4k, but I can easily get less than 1k. Just make sure whatever you are spraying on is nice and clean, and any under layers are fully cured. Any off gassing will cause the graphite to crack, which looks super cool if that is the effect you are going for
Hey! Great video! Some model paint brands (Vallejo I think) also have conductive paint. Do you think these would work as a conductive layer for electroplating prints?
This is amazing! I notice you always start with copper, if I want to make something silver or nickel, do I have to start w copper plating or can I just go to a nickel? Also, is the nickel plating toxic st all once it’s on the object?
Alright finally got everything ordered. Going to try this out at the end of the month. I got a few questions though. You say measure for 1k to 2k ohms but your meter is showing 17k ohm in the video? Also why did the first flying lady not workout? Did you not test? Can I use a buffing wheel with no polishing compound on the graphite to polish it or is microfiber rag enough? Does the UHU two part work better then the UHU hart? I ordered the UHU hart.
Hi, ignore the ohm meter. Try to apply several thin coats of graphite until you hit the spot around 1k. Polish between the layers. A rag is enough. You can use Uhu hart. Make sure it dissolves completely. Good luck!
Schon wieder so kranker scheis von dir! Danke für die Top videos. Versuch doch mal ein Model Auto zu machen. Da sieht man in den Refklektionen wie gut so was aussieht. LG aus Berlin. KEEP IT UP!
Moin moin. Klasse Videos.😊 Inspiriert von deinen Videos habe ich mir von Tifoo ein Starterset für die Galvanisierung und das Kupferleitspray, Palladium etc. gekauft. Warum erhalte ich nach vier Stunden Galvanisieren ein Objekt, was voller Pickel ist und wo die Kupferschicht bröckelt? Liegt das am Laborgerät, der Trockenzeit vom Kupferleitspray oder an den Einstellungen? Oder liegt es am Draht, den ich zum Eintauchen verwende? Geräteeinstellungen habe ich von der Tifoo Tabelle entnommen. Vielen Dank.😊 Grüße aus dem Münsterland.
Du hast vermutlich eine zu starke Feldstärke. 3Ddruck Oberfläche ausrechnen, Quadratdezimeter = Strom. Auf diesen Wert einstellen (über den Strom, nicht Spannung). Druck 10-15 cm von der Anode halten.
Hi, ich hab mir das jetzt n paar mal angeschaut. Ich verstehe jetzt nicht, wie ich an chrom komme? Sehe jetzt nur Kupfer oder Gold. Welcher Faktor macht es aus, was das Endergebnis ist? Muss man eine andere Lösung / Säure nehmen oder liegt es an den Platten. Ich möchte wirklich nur Chrom haben. Lg
Kupfer für die dicke grundschicht. Dann Nickel/Palladium als dünne sperrschicht damit das nicht mit dem Gold diffundiert. Wenn du nur Chrom willst Go Kupfer->chrom/Palladium oder cu->ni/pd->au->ag
