This was a fun video but you didn't really inform folks about the importance of understanding opacity when glazing. It's more then just how thin the paint is or wicking away water. Certain colors are naturally more transparent, usually darker shades and to lighten them white pigment is added to the formula. This makes the paints less transparent and less ideal for glazing. It's why when you glaze with very white pigment rich colors you end up with a chalky finish, because your making the paint break into it's pigments, rather then seeing through the pigments. It's the reason why the skin in this video built up "faster," hint, it didn't the paint just contains more opaque pigments. On the other end the jade was more vibrant and easier to apply, because it was more transparent. Inks are wonderful for glazing since they are much richer in pigment meaning they can be thinned down much more and as an additional benefit most art store acrylic inks like FW actually label the level of opacity.
I can't even begin to express how much I like this video. This is one of the best explanations of glazing I've ever seen. And the fact that you even show the practical application is even better.
I want to compliment you on your channel. I am a novice airbrush painter and I looked at many how to videos. This channel is by far the most helpful I have found. I feel like I am starting to get a handle on my new hobby. I recently got a 3D printer and needed to learn to paint what I build. Thanks for these videos. Still have a lot to learn but this helps a lot.
Thanks for posting your technique, Kenny. Glazing seems to have become the flavor of the month for the past five or six months from what I've seen. Stay awesome, you're one of my favorite painters out there.
As Kenny always says, the airbrush is a tool in your toolbox...use it. I was a brush guy for years,Kenny has taught me SOOOOO much about brushes but I bought an Iwata eclipse because of his teaching. Has improved my models 1 million %. Use em together.
Not sure what it was about this video, but after watching it something clicked and you helped step my game up. Several techniques I learned separately came together and I’m busting out better miniatures. Thank you!
One of the best instructional painting videos I have seen yet! I've been painting since the early days of wargaming, but I'm no artist so my efforts are still amateurish at best. This gives me a huge leg up using a technique I never dreamt of but is probably totally obvious to areal artist. I will be trying this out real soon. Thank you so much. Respect!
Thanks mate, I recently did a 3 color squig challenge with a few other creators on this platform. I tried glazing for the first time and liked it, I would really enjoy watching a series on glazing from you as it all helps and you know your stuff.
I really like the idea of glazing over the prime/zenithal/dry brush foundation as an exercise (and a technique). I’ve done this with speed paints, but not glazes, and I think it could be really informative for me. Thanks.
Glazing is super important. I do like that ancient glaze medium tech and thinning with some acrylic medium/flow improver. Too much water breaks the pigment, and not all pigments seem to tolerate a lot of water; hence: the mediums. Great video!
Thank you for this video. This is what joy and fun back into mini painting for me. Directional Zenith prime, followed by glazing. So many people zenithal then go in with opaque paint and wipe out the work they did without knowing.
It helps to take the water out via the lower belly of the brush. Fold a paper towel a few times and touch the edge to brush down by the ferrule and it will suck the water out while leaving more pigment in the upper parts of the brush. I find it allows me keep my glazes transparent while not desaturating the color as much.
Yo I ain’t no painting ninja so I appreciate this beginner stuff so much. I love your painting and want to be like you when I grow up but I might be older then you. Please more beginner techniques. Your the best! And my favorite painter.
Very nice work! Thanks for sharing this video this was very interesting to learn glazing. Wich I really don't do on my models but now I want to try thus painting method. Thanks Kenny🤘💀
The underpainting + Glazing technique has proven to be the best for speed painting (for me)... I actually use in this case mostly contrast paints (thinned down) or Inks (mixed with Matte Medium)... Way better results then base+wash... Much more vibrancy.
This glazing method is a good trick for red tonality as it can be kind of hard to keep red from going pink when you add white. They also use this greyscale method in the actual concept art field. To where the artist builds value with a Greyscale medium like markers then scans it into a computer to experiment with different overlayed color values and textures.
Glazing is the best and most fun moment. There's nothing like popping out a cloak or cape with even brighter colours each time. Then the opposite, glazing those shades back in to bring out the contrast.
GREAT vid and a great, normal, non-scholastic vibe... question... on my most recent attempt, my figure (1:35 scale, face) developed some texture (chalky?) that looks like shit on film or under a magnifier what might be the cause and a solution thanks for having a kick ass channel...im subscribed!
just a couple things he forgot 1: some terminology. as he said, the difference between similar techniques is the intended end result, but he actually mixed it up. a 'wash' is applied thick to flow into crevices a 'filter' is a thin layer applied uniformly over the model to tint it while keeping the value underneath(what was shown in the video) a 'glaze is another thin layer similar to a filter, but this time used to to obtain a gradient of either color or shade/highlight 2: bright paints can appear chalky when glazed, use medium instead of water to prevent this. 3:the value sketch underneath doesn't need to be in grayscale, you can obtain many interesting effects by changing the colors underneath. for example, light skin comes out amazing when glazed over a light flesh tone on dark red value sketch (flesh tone over brown for dark skin) or for a midnight purple you can use a light red pink over dark purplish blue, glazing in your chosen purple tone and adding a tiny bit of copper to it for a final filter to get some of that sparkling effect of metallized paint
Alright. I need to do this, as I'm not good enough with glazing (it's honestly been one of the hardest techniques to learn, but it finally clicked when removing the water again).
If you don't have any models to spare, print out a black and white photograph and try glazing over that if you want to experiment with how some colours interact when glazed over one another. Also, fun fact: in traditional painting on canvas, what we'd call a zenithal highlight on a model is called a "grisaille". (I've been a bit frustrated with attempts at glazing so this video's come along at just the right time. Thanks!)
If instead of white on black, you work with different base colors for this technique? For example, I find glazing red over brown produces a better result than over black.
I think the most important technique in glazing is "how to remove the water" out of the brush and keep paint inside - shown very good! I would like it more than once :-)
But i dont understand it. So in Glazing we use the same Thin transparent red again again and again. And every glaze layer makes it more redder? How is that possible? I mean its the same transparent layer/glaze which we paint over and over again, so it should have the same colour as the very first beginning layer/glaze Nr.1 . I dont understand that -_-
The problem is, yellow over grey makes green, and red over grey makes pink. When I undershade, I try to choose tones that work better with what's going over the top; I've given up entirely on greyscale, unless I'm going over it with blue or brown. Or grey, of course.
Out of curiousity, how many prople use Vallejo's glaze medium or Airbrush flow improver instead of water? I tend to find the water breaks down the binding agent too much.
lots of people do...but those also slow the dry time...when I am moving quick i like water..also paint prand has a lot to do with the break down....these paints don't quit
@@NextLevelPainting That's very true. Citadel paints compared to Secret Weapons. I still reckon the Secret Weapon Washes have more pigment in them sometimes
Beautiful videoguide. So next to us - get understand it, master it, dont make this guide go fo nothing. At it wont, i will do this testins at this week.
They're as thin as they need to be for their intended use/layer/goal/style. There's absolutely no correct answer to how much or little to thin since it changes with every model, every scheme, every brand of paint, and even between colors.
