Mate; i dont know if this will reach you? Its been two years since you uploaded it. Just wanted to say thankyou so much for this brilliant tutorial. I paint 28mm Historical (i can hear you yawn); i have been painting since i was a kid, but back in the 80s we would never have dreamed about using Artist techniques on our figures. i had absolutely no clue how to Glaze; and now thanks to you, i have alot more confidence and can see the possilbilities on my figures and horses. Your tutorials have been life savers and Game changers! Ps have loved your Color theory tutorials too Thanks again
Thank you for actually showing the mechanical process of making a glaze! So many others just say something like "thin it down to a glaze bro" without actually telling you what that is!
I love how you combine your tutorials on a given topic with other techniques. It might be obvious to an experienced painter, but to me it was really mind blowing that tip on the end to glaze over the unwanted "dirt" you get when dry brushing... Also when you apply really thick highlights of white and tone it down with the original glaze... Just thank you so much
The lighter colors are a layer consistency because it's easier. You can glaze with light colors, but it's difficult and as you are learning, it's just easier to glaze down.
Probably the best explanation of glazing i've seen, I'm not sure when I read online with people glazing if I didn't see the 'whipe extra onto paper towel' I always just put it on, seemed way to watery always and ended up stop doing it.
9:09 Vince- "Oh, great question imaginary person!" Imaginary Person- "Im subscribing to this channel just because you said my name in this video!" Great tut by the way.
this is like a miniature painting Lecturing/ class, i love it!!. the best glazing tutorial i ever seen this month. glad i found your channel sir. (Subscribed!)
You're doing the lord's work Vince. This is so ridiculously helpful. You're showing your palette and all the minutia that is often left out of a tutorial.
Thank you, very happy to help. I am always going to try to show the palette and really deep dive from now on where I can so people can see all the stuff.
It's one of those simple things that I didn't even realize I was doing until I really broke every step down in my brain. :) - It's just one of those things I think I accidentally stumbled upon.
Thx for making this, great content man.. I started miniture painting in the late 90's, but haven't touched a brush in years, just getting back into it.. this makes me kinda wish we had youtub back in the day :)
Yeah, as you are coming back you will see that youtube is really an incredible resource, it's such a different world from the 90s (when I started as well).
When it comes to thinning a glaze with a thinner, would it work just using airbrush thinner? I can't think of any reason it wouldn't, but you're the expert.
This is even better than Dana Howl's tutorial on glazing (which so far was the main source of my glazing delusions). The core basics put to use and easy to understand with you practical, no-nonsense style. Thank you, sir!
The best tutorial for glazing on RU-vid. Serously, I've watched a tonne of videos about glazing, but after watching this one I finally understand what is glazing about.
Well this has been very timely. I've been trying to paint some skeletons with glazing and learning how colours closer to white are a lot more difficult to glaze makes a lot of sense. I've been using glazing medium and everything! Thanks for the video.
Amazing video Vince! When I asked GW about this it was unclear to me and just seemed to be when you did it in the paint process. You've done alot to clear this up for me.
GW's Reply: It's all down to how you want the shade to interact with the colours. Usually, it will be after a basecoat to add shading to a model before the highlights are applied. Other times, we do it last, as we want to the entire miniature to have the hue offered by the wash. Eg - putting a yellow wash on after a bone basecoat and a white highlight. We also sometimes use washes as a glaze - that means mixing it with medium, so when applied, the shade is thin enough to simply add colour to the final hue and help blend the highlights together. This lets you add quite harsh highlights and the final glaze brings them together. This works especially well on something like a cloak. eg: 1. Basecoat Mephiston Red 2. Highlight Evil Suns Scarlet 3. Highlight Trollslayer Orange 4. Glaze with Carroburg Crimson mix with Medium. Hope that helps!
Great, informative video (as always). Question: The glazes that I use make the paint look really chalky on the figure. I used Valejjo Glaze and Vallejo Matt Medium, which I thought would prevent that issue. Am I over-thinning the paint or will the chalkiness go away with additional coats of glazing?
It's a side effect of certain pigment being really thin. One of the ways to handle that is to then glaze a thin ink over the top, which will help smooth out that chalkieness as they don't break down the same with liquid pigment.
@@kofmanmi yes. :) - (The answer is whatever color is the mid-tone you are working. You might also try other paint ranges, sometimes the chalkieness can come from a lack of pigment, some ranges like Scale 75, Pro Acryl and Kimera are more pigment rich and would have that happen less.
Awesome tutorial! I appreciate it. I think I may enjoy this better than straight base coating and washing. Removing excess is really key. I also saw where Dana Howl gave you props on her glazing video! Thank you again!
I can't believe it took me this long to learn why the hell rich, dark colors like my Warcolours Violet 4 & 5 aren't completely opaque, whereas lighter tints are. That always seemed bass-ackward to me, but now it makes a lot of sense. Thank you Vince!
Your tutorials are awesome, and this here video convinced me to do my minis with the glaze technique instead of GW's suggested layering, which always seemed kind of overcomplicated to me.
This is one of the best explanations of glazing I have seen. I also love the way you mesh the glazing process with the other techniques. Awesome video!!
Thank you so much for the guide! Subscribed! Question: @8:55 where you add white highlight, is the white also “glazed” (more water, more transparent) or “straight” (less water, more opaque)?
Welcome along, there are many tutorials in the playlist, so much to explore. :) - To answer your question, in this case, I was applying the lighter color as a layer consistency. Generally, it's much easier to layer with brighter colors and then just glaze down with the darker, more transparent colors.
So I understand the difference between a glaze and a wash but, though not ideal, would it be entirely possible to use a glaze as a wash? Is that something you could address briefly on a future video which features this topic? Thank you for taking the time to make these in-depth videos, after a 20 (perhaps longer) year hiatus I'm learning so much by watching your content.
Hey Vince, This and the smooth blends video (107) among others, are super helpful to newer painters watching them nowadays. However, they have some quality and focus issues which makes it difficult to see some of the results and troubleshoot my own paint issues. any chance you'll be reshooting them (I know it's a big ask) with your new setup?
Fortunately, I have you covered - Glazes: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rEcDL8mLZzo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB Newer video on smooth blends - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QNMEd7bK_Og.html&pp=gAQBiAQB I will be covering blending again more in the future for sure.
What is the manufacturer and color you recommend at 16:16 for reddish skin toning ? The bottle looks like it says BROWN 2, but I cannot read the manufacturer's name. It has a skull logo. (I'm not referring to Arbuckles Brown from Scale75.) Great video !!!
Vince, great tutorial. Does it matter what glaze medium you use (i.e. what brand)? Any issues with using for example, Vallejo's glaze medium with Scale75 paint?
I love your videos. This tutorial, however, is absolutely brilliant. A real masterclass. Thank you for sharing your technique in such a didacticall way.
Hey Vince, you mention at one point that colours like yellows and oranges work better over a zenithal progression of brown to ivory, as opposed to one of black to white. I've zenithally primed a mini using black to white, though I skipped the grey and used Citadel Wraithbone and Pallid Wych Flesh instead, with pure white highlights. There's no other paint on the mini yet. I wanted to use orange for a majority of the mini, but now I'm worried it won't work that well if I've got black shadows. Any advice? Love all your videos by the way, they've helped me a lot! Hope you and yours are doing well!
Easy change, take a light sepia or brown ink and give the model an all over glaze, then shoot some ivory from above (optionally) and you will be good to go. You want a thin layer of that brown just to tint everything.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm still pretty new to the hobby and this helped me a lot, especially by emphasizing to remove the excess water from the brush. I've been washing instead of glazing by now 😅
Hi Vince, I am seriously thinking about using a blue and orange color scheme for my upcoming army. Currently in the testing stuff out phase. Trying to get good at glazing, so doing that as much as possible. I have zenithaled them in a grey scale and the blue looks good over grey/white (as it should), the orange could look better if I would use a warming zenithal. But over a warmer zenithal the blue might look worse. Any advice?
I would go with the warm zenithal, orange reacts very poorly to black and similar colors, but blue won't really react bad as the browns of the warmer primer are made from orange, which is the contrast to blue, so it will only help that color shade.
I have tried washing away excess water from my paintbrush before applying a glaze, but often times when I lift up the brush from the model there’s a wet paint droplet left behind. How do I avoid this?
You need to wick out more water. That will minimize it, but to some extent, you will always deposit more paint at the conclusion of the brush stroke, which you want to use to your advantage, sweep into the darker color or where you’re trying to glaze toward where it will have less effect.
6 лет назад
Great video: Great content. Great explanation. Thank you so much! But also technically very enjoyable: Good video resolution, good sound, no music. Good choice of a large mini to see the technique better. The only thing to increase the technical aspect would be another frontal lamp as the mini had quite a few lamp shadows instead of painted shadows.
So, if glazing with a paint like Vallejo and using glaze medium or thinner, then you can't use your wet palette. You'd have to mix-up some glaze in a separate mixing cup and work out of that. Is this correct?
Nope, you can certainly use your wet palette still. What I will do is make a few mixes on the palette, if you watch this video, you'll see how I make my little working areas separate from my original paint - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lXH-Tml1ltc.html
I have a question about the target colours. I wish to paint up some darkspawn beastmen and I am focusing specifically on the skin. The GW guide says Thunderhawk blue followed by a wash with Coelia Greenshade, then Rus Grey and finally Fenrisian Grey. Would you zenathil and then glaze on the thunderhawk blue and get you basically all the way there (aside from any edge highlights) or do you need to pick a colour further along the line as your target glaze colour?
This simple wicking away of water changes everything. I don't know why I didn't think of it myself, but this vastly helps my changes of achieving the effects I want to achieve.
I have question I have 3 layer purple, green blue and mix between the green blue and icing yellow - do glaze with the mix of three or purple and green blue one for making the blend smoothers?
Wow. Great tutorial and the best explanation of what glazes are. Question though. What about the very top of the pants above the belt that have the flesh paint on it. Would you use the lighter color and glaze over? Thanks!
Had one Green Stuff World acrylic gold paint on hand so i decided to do a test and paint something and wow, it feels much smoother than Vallejo and doesn't dry as fast, in fact I was able to dry brush with it without any retarder, i wonder if their paints use a gel medium? Vallejo dries so fast without a retarder gel medium it's impossible to drybrush and when there is little paint on the brush it's super dry, with GSW it doesn't feel dry at all. GSW paints are a bit more expensive and i wonder how their other paints differ from this one.
Man ive watched soooo many glaze tutorials and this was by far the most helpful one! Sorry for being so late but instant sub from me. Thats a mighty fine budonkadonk lol
Hi Vince, one question; I saw another painter on youtoube doesn´t recomend glaze medium for creating glazes, he takes with the tip of the brush a bit paint and then moves it around on the wet pallete until glaze is achieved. What do you think about that?
I think that's just fine. You can certainly use just water, but some paint brands are going to respond better to a little medium of they aren't as pigment dense. In the end, it's a small part function and mostly personal preference as you will learn how work with it in either case.
I heed to paint realistic flesh tones on 1/35 faces. I'll need to do some blending. What would you recommend I use as an additive to the acrylic paint since it sounds like glazes are out?
Oh you could certainly utilize glazes for skin, it's usually the best bet. That being said, if you want to focus more on pure blending, then something like Retardent is your best bet, it will slow the drying time and allow for easier blending.
This is great! I'm new to figure painting and I'm finding your channel so helpful! Lots of "tutorials" out there but none broken down into chunks, like yours. Thank you!
Sometimes your best bet is to forcibly feather the edge out with either a second brush, or quickly with your original brush after the paint is cleared.
Do you also dab excess water from the paint when base coating? I seem to remember some other video mentioning that you should never go straight paint-to-model in general
It's tough, they are naturally going to be desaturated. One option, is to really, really over highlight things and then use lots of layers of transparent inks, which can let the light underneath show through while still retaining good color.
Then you bring the base colors way up over you want, and then smooth to glaze back down but either work very thin or avoid the highest highlights like you saw me do with the top of the skin here. Hope that helps. :)
Hi Vince, I'm kind of scared of messing up my miniatures by trying out new techinques. Would you happen to have recommendations for 'academic' miniatures or busts to try to apply the stuff you're teaching us? Thank you for everything, you channel is very informative!
So here is my honest answer, don't be afriad of messing up your models. Your models now will be nothing compared to what you can accomplish in a year or two years, as you evolve in painting, you will always go far beyond and see what you could have done. My best advice is to try stuff like this on the minis you are working on, you will always be more interested to keep going when it's something you want to paint. Especially with glazes, it's so thin, you can't hurt anything. My best advice is be okay with failure and always be okay with learning. Failure, espeically with new things is okay, it happens and it means you're progressing. Plus, this technique is something that will push your skills and you will then be very happy with what you've done on the minis you loved. :)
Man, I've been struggling with this concept for so long and you explained the whole process so well. Thank you for taking the time to make videos like this. I hope you know how helpful they are!
I do! I didn't add the links to the older videos yet, but I sure do and it's focused on sharing and learning, review and feedback. Here is the link - www.patreon.com/VincentRVenturella
Amazing video Vince. I just binged a bunch of your videos today. I started practicing with you skin tone glazing tonight. I’m close to finding similar colors in my collection. However, I might order the exact colors you were using. You mentioned the arbuckles. Can you share the color name for the orange/brown warcolours paint and your flesh color on the base of the flesh? Thank you.
Vince Venturella thank you 🙏 I’ve decided to go back to the beginning and start watching from your first video - forward. You have by far the best painting tutorials on RU-vid. Congratulations 🎉
Awesome tutorial. Does enyone using glazing as a base technic of painting figures? I was painting the same ogre yesterday, and spend like 4 hours just to build shadows from layering mixes from 3 flesh tones, and I'm happy for a first skin try ever, but still craving for something better. This looks ten times better, in what, few minutes? Back to original question, of course, I could use it as a base method, but is it practical in larger scale aplication? Thanks guys!
I tend to use glazing a lot. I think it’s one of those skills that is good to work on, as it’s something you can integrate into lots of different figures. It’s certainly not the only way to blend, but it’s one I like for really smoothing things out. Glad it was helpful and always happy to assist.
@@VinceVenturella Tried it a bit yesterday, but I needed to order a thinner medium for both gw and vallejo paints. Only paints that stayed together with water on the pallet was those technical kinda washes from gw. Need to try some inks, coz ones I used tend to loose strenght too much, or be be too opeque. Dark blue worked best, white worst, and glazing flesh is still black magic for now;) Gonna keep trying tho!
Vince... These are incredibly useful vids... Do you have any video in which you display your "method" end to end? I understand there are multiple ways you can go, brush vs airbrush, shadow to light, light to shadow, mid tone to the extremes, glazes, washes, etc... It would be quite useful to see some vids in which you just move from all steps from priming to end... No need to to be a live video, as it would be too long, but perhaps just showing the steps... Thanks a lot!
@@VinceVenturella - I don't leave comments at each and every tutorial of yours, but I watch loads of them and they help me. My problem with glazing is that I don't know how light my glaze has to be to get the nice blend - too little difference with the base colour and you don't see any difference, too much difference & you might as well use regular paint. This blending in lighter/darker colour when the glaze is still wet and then smoothing it down is an eye opener. Can't wait to try it out.
When doing washes I like to mix paint with water and 1-2 drops of flow improver to reduce surface tension so it seeps into small crevices and the border edge disappears. When doing a glaze to reduce surface tension and remove the edge of the paint can flow improver be used instead of glaze medium? Both seem to be very similar, both have a retarder in them.
Awesome, thanks for sharing, gonna try glazing, ca it be used to create a soft shadow? Probably needs several coats, I like to use a clean damp brush sometimes to blur the harsh layers.
Vince Venturella cool, thanks for responding, finished painting a head I sculpted, took longer than I thought, kept making mistakes but I learned a lot.
Thanks Vince, I learn more from this one video than a year's worth of others. I paint WWII 1/16 but I'm a complete beginner, have not one clue how to paint lol, I know I picked the wrong hobby, but with your video I have learn a lot. So thanks again Vince, all the very best from a very sunny Ireland.
Nonsense, you picked the right hobby! We all started knowing nothing, so don't feel bad for a moment. No one is born a great miniature painter. We all just learn over time and practice and learn some more and that is a wonderful thing as we all get to do it together. :) happy to help anytime.
Just got back into the hobby and I'm going to try this with the contrast paints as well. Basically wraithbone undercoat as advised then use the main colour to get that nice recess shading. I will then drybrush the areas required and then add some medium to my contrast colours. I know this sounds very basic but I have a lot of models to paint, do you think this will give a decent Tabletop + result?
Yes I think it will, now, that being said, if you want to really push the tabletop but fast, doing the base coat as a zenithal and then following the pattern you describe would be powerful. That being said, yes I think that would be fine for sure. Be careful with the dry brush over pure contrast, it's a fragile paint, so you may need to varnish in between layers.
@@VinceVenturella I tried both methods and I must admit the Zenithal works better. But I have do it via brushing as I don't have an airbrush. But saying that, the results are just fine for my needs and works fast.
A super helpful video. I have been having a hard time with glazes. Despite following the instructions, I tend to often end up with either a paint that leaves no color, or it goops all over the place like a glaze and I feel I can't control it. This was my first attempt at glazing with a zenithal miniature with an airbrush. imgur.com/a/04LT3Cs Still a work in progress, but thanks for all the advice. Your videos have been like my miniature painting bible since I started 6 months ago.
So the first question is are you wicking off the excess into a paper towel? That's the most common issue. The second thing I would say is if you are using certain brands of paint, you may want to use some thinner medium in addition to water. The image looks good. Hope this all helps. :)
Vince Venturella I tried making use of some thinner, flow aid, and a glaze medium(All from Vallejo). Not all at once, mind you. I had varying results with each. I usually wick off most of the paint on a paper towel and tried to copy the consistency of milk. I attempted it on another miniature here(still a work in progress) imgur.com/a/CJ1jY1J while also trying to follow your value sketching video. I am not sure if you can see how the blue keeps pooling in certain areas no matter how much I wick off? I also applied 4-5 levels of glaze and still some areas end up with no color whatsoever, while others pool in areas darkly. I use mostly Army Painter and Vallejo paints. Trying to attempt new methods, rather than just my old method of just base coating and layering, so going to keep trying. Thank in advance for any tips. I've heard Army Painter paints kind of suck, so maybe that is my issue.
Vince, so if I understand correctly, if you want to glaze over an orange color, you need brown color to replace black when you Zenithal the figure? Do you still use white over brown to create the Zenithal contrast?
Going to try it to see if I can achieve some sort of olive skin tone, over the tanned flesh I currently have built up. Going for a greek/mediterranean look.
Thanks for this video! Been watching a bunch of glazing videos and they SAY the things, but they don't actually SHOW them properly. So I just end up making a ton of mistakes. This was super helpfull, can't wait to try it out on my next mini properly!
A lot of other tutorials seem to refer to this as layering... but you mentioned layering in your video around the 24 minute mark, so if this is actually glazing then what is layering?
So basically, the key is just the thinness of the paint. All acrylic paint is transparent. The key is just how much you are thinning it and increasing the transparency. The key is that a layer is generally meant to mostly cover the layer below leaving only a little bit of value showing through. A glaze is meant to be really quite thin and still show much of the color underneath.
Is glazing with artist acrylic inks, or the old citadel inks the same method? Also would a white artist ink be better since it's semi transparent? Thanks for all the great videos, I wish these were around back when I started.
So for glazing with the old inks, sure, any transparent ink or paint can be made into a glaze, this video tells more about it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TbCtUYFwFWQ.html As to the glazing white, sure the ink can certainly make it easier.
Quick question on this Vince (sorry it took me so long to find you, your content is amazing) - When you applied the white highlight to the pants over the glaze at around the 9 minute mark - did you alklow the glaze to dry before applying the highlight or did you go in and highlight on top of the wet glaze? I watched it twice, and with the lighting, I can't tell if it's still somewhat wet or dry. You do note that the highlight needs to be dry before applying the next coat of glaze immediately after. Man, I really wish I would have found you about 10 minis back, my growing collection would look SO much better. Rock on, man - you are my 21st century Bob Ross. Gotta send ya a plush squirrel, I guess. Edit: I think you answered the question a minute or two later, but I digress.
My answer is whatever is clever. You don't need to wait for the glaze to dry, you're just working wet on wet. I rarely let anything dry except thin glazes, it's almost always better to be working wet on wet to smooth things out.
