I think this car is so cheap to lure unsuspecting people into rc cars before totally corrupting them. After this awesome start into the hobby they blink two times and they got a basement full of cars😂
It's true. I try and warn my friends because they have fun racing my cars, then they start asking me what it costs and I show them my spreadsheet. I keep track of all the hardware expenses, and it's a lot! I had to put an RC car category in my budget to keep it under control...
Can we have curved clips please Jason. Only other thing with the 10th stuff is those terrible servo savers I would like to think that part isn't British designed 😂
I think it's time for a V4 Senton 6s based off the TLR Typhon chassis !!! Hence why I built one myself !!! Now an even more awesome handling Senton with a wider stance and longer travel suspension !!!
Picked one up yesterday from my local hobby shop. Was truly leaning towards the Traxxas XRT, but at $1400 Cdn, plus all the suggested upgrades??? Forgetaboutit... Got this plus two Spektrum 4s 100C for under $700.😊 Looking forward to being a member of the Arrma community...
That's a good deal, because Spektrum 4s 100c lipos usually cost $700 by themselves. No, I am happy for you, but goddamn that's a high priced battery just for 4 LEDs on the remote. Oh, wait, SLT3 remote doesn't have battery indicator lights. You really should have bought any other brand of battery and you'd have gotten a better deal. No offense, but it sounds like "hobby shop guy" talked you into the Spektrum batteries. Because the only reason I would use those batteries (at that price) is because DX3/5 radios have a LED indicator for battery capacity, which only works with Spektrum batteries. That said, welcome to the Arrma family and make sure to take advantage of the excellent 2 year warranty by making them send you Spektrum servos every time they break until you get tired of installing a new servo every 2 months and buy a decent aftermarket servo. Power Hobby has some excellent $60 servos that will feel 9,000 times stronger and more responsive than stock.
I got the Mojave 4S because of that TRD livery (and your reviews). I couldn't pass it up. The servo seemed fine for 10th scale, I put it into a Senton, did great. I guess it's the center diff, these are so fun to drive. The body pitch and roll is tremendously satisfying compared to smaller scale. Arrma is my go-to brand to recommend to new comers now. They don't miss lately.
Man you guys are getting scammed I wasn’t undermining how expensive it if for you I was just joining in the party of how the us for rc cars are so cheap (:
I've been loving my 4S Mojave. Handles like a dream, takes a beating over and over, fast, just straight badass. I want a Kraton but can't decide between this 4S V2.5 or the new EXB RTR. I also love my Mojave 6S and have had a few less issues with it, so I'm leaning towards the EXB, but for what I want to do I think I may be better off spending less money and getting the 4S
@RcPlayer-tt2vw I'm definitely not the best driver when it comes to jumps and stuff.. like I can level out but i have really bad judgement apparently 😅
Hay buddy nice review in Australia the new kraton 4s is over 100 dollars dearer than the old one and still can't get the new chassis until thay sell all the ones that are junk I ended up using a big rock chassis coz I just got sick of braking chassis thanks for your review helpful for a lot of people where so disappointed with the kraton cheers buddy 👍👌🤟😎
New RC owner . Picked up this bad boy and trying to check the differentials for proper grease . If you ever have time to make a step by step video of that I would be so appreciative! Keep killing it !
I have the Kraton v2.5. I can confirm that rocks still get in and chews the centre shaft. I think the rocks are getting in from the back. Bounce off the new rear mud guards and straight in.
@@simracingchannel7691 yeah I had a lot of problems initially. Steering servo got jammed up constantly, burned through 3 center shafts, lots of general wear and tear with the exposed center shaft, the dust cover fixed most of that. That being said the 2.5 chassis is what I run now and the higher front walls help keep stuff out too.
I've never owned or driven a traxxas or an arrma. I tend not to buy the most expensive rc's I can find, because I like to work on them, so a price tag is the base line, double that and that's what a serious upgrade usually looks like for me... That said, I like this platform, but 1/10 is a bit small for what I want out of my bigger bashers. I have a 1/8 scale from not the biggest two names in the biz, and it's quite a sweet spot. 4s-6s, and it shines at 4s. So I like to compare 4s rigs, and this was a very insightful video. Thank you!
Sounds like we are in the same boat. I have two JLB cheetahs, the 11101 and the 21101. I spend more time tinkering than I do bashing. However, after a couple of years of that I figured that I would join the big leagues with the purchase of the 1/0 Kraton 4s V2.5. Yes, parts are far more costly, but they are readily available. I'm looking forward to the challenges with the new machine. Plus, the existing 'Arrma community' is always there for assistance if required...
I know this is an old video but I have a dilemma that I hope you can help solve. I’ve seen the Outcast video as well so basically I have 1 question. I spend a lot of time on rough terrain but I have a new found love of skate parks. Does the air control of the outcast out way the handling of the kraton?
I think Europe prices are subsidising US prices on the new 2.5 version, because the prices increased on this 2.5 version over the older 2.0 version in Europe. Probably wont be buying any more Arrma's, Arrma seem to have learnt a few lessons from Traxxas on pricing.
Ok after many questions and internal debate, I was able to pick up the green slime v2.5 at my lhs. Bought this over the 6s as recommended. Ordered some essentials like the full skid set, titanium hinge pins and capture, link set, limit straps, 3d printed motor support, dirt cover, flexible wing mount, reinforce body. Hope I like it as much as the Mojave 6s.
Nice review! To the guarantee, for what does it work? Like if the motor just fails, will I get a new car? And when my spoiler breaks is it just my fault then or will they pay it?
My warranty experience with Arrma has been, something breaks, you send proof of purchase and they'll send you the broken part to install yourself. Why would they give you a whole new truck? Only Apple is that stupid, and that's because they can afford to: their prices are 4x the competition. You're never getting a whole new truck from Arrma. But, if your problem is nebulous, you may end up getting free parts. Story time children: In a land far away (California) lived an elf named Punky Brewster. Punky had an issue with his Felony where the throttle stopped responding. Horizon Hobby sent over a new ESC because version 1 felony ESCs were garbage. The ESC did not fix the issue. So Punky the elf talked more to Arrma and read on the Arrma forums that the problem was likely the steering servo, because the throttle worked after unplugging the servo. So H.H sent over a new servo. The issue remained. The elf asked for a new receiver, it did not arrive, the elf asked a second time for a new receiver. 3 days later, a new receiver arrived, which fixed the problem. 5 days later, the second receiver arrived (whoops) Then the elf put the extra receiver on eBay and made $50. The End
I have the Kraton and the Outcast and these chew driveshaft’s, you need to get the mesh dust cover as little stones will get jammed between the rear of the driveshaft and the motor as no room to pass through !!! My Outcast without a dust cover the driveshaft lasted 1.5 batteries and was cut completely through by a stone, the Kraton has a dust mesh cover and the driveshaft lasted 5 batteries. Buyer beware here if you run on gravel or tracks using gravel ! Stock up on driveshafts regardless!!
I think they should fit the 6s esc motor in these an make chassis unbreakable upgrade shafts all metal and stop making the 6s kraton s as plastic lighter way to go way better
Real happy to hear this chassis is doing a better job! I just broke the "neck" of my V2 chassis, and am replacing it with the V2.5 chassis. Come to think of it, I had the same problem you did (albeit with the old chassis) where my hinge pin retainer broke. I couldn't believe it was part of the chassis, kind of weird design if you ask me. However it never actually became a problem, somehow.
@@simracingchannel7691 you can yes, I haven’t done it yet but it has spaces specifically for both the slipper and the center diff modules. So you can run either. Good engineering on ARRMA’s part there.
@@GeddyRC good to know. I havent broken a chassis yet and the V2 chassis are readily available where i am from but it is good to have option if it does happen.
According to the HH site their '18kg' servo's specs are - 140 oz/in (10.1 kg/cm) @ 6.0V; 180 oz/in (12.96 kg/cm) @ 8.4V BUT the ESC can only output 7v max!!!!!!!! Theoretically it is possible to win an NBA championship if you wear Air Jordans because Michael Jordan wore them (but only the Nike Air Jordan 6, 7,8,11,12,14....others are not proven to win NBA championships) 🤣🤣
@oscarsonne9168 guess it depends on what ya plan on doing with it what batteries you already have. An where ya gonna ride an do ya really need 6s. All things to consider.
Just wish the cheap waste of time and effort SERVO SAVER was addressed. It’s sooo slow and spongy. Terrible design and no good fix out there in aftermarket world
I took the spring out of the Kimbrough servo saver and put it in the stock arrma servo saver. I find that to be a better and stronger option than the kimbrough or hot racing servo saver
@@Havingoneofthosedays- it’s a real pain to swap that spring. I found that mounting the open servo saver on a spare servo lets you torque the spring into place by turning it with the lid over top until it snaps into place, hope that helps