What I love the most with this channel than any other RC channel is he's bashing those RC with his kids, just exactly like what I did. Nothing is better than to have your kids giggling happily.
Having switched to metal diff gear boxes and using shims I never had a gear fail ever since. Shims are the secret sauce for RC drivetrain longevity. Slop=failiure.
Exactly the video i was looking for. Straight to the point. Recently got this rig and took it out to the pump track. Best time I've ever had bashing. Even better after these upgrades. Thanks!
Thanks!! I appreciate that. Feel free to share the channel if you think it can help someone. I have an awesome 1,000 subscriber video in the works. Probably hit it in 2-3 weeks. Thanks a ton!!
Thank you so much for the servo trick. I have a servo that’s too tall and never thought to add washers to raise it up. Love the way you man handle your cars. True what you see is what you get. That’s why I subbed!
I agree there’s much better out there, but man over the stock one and with tightening the servo saver was a massive difference over its horrible stock steering. It’s possible they made some improvements, this model is 3 years old and the steering was so bad out of the box lol
😝😂🍻cheers brother! You are the edit master! That just made my head spin😵💫😂! And your twin brother didn’t even lend a finger…Wow! 😝I should hope this thing is Evan and Max proof now! Awesome video brother. Doing my repairs on video,adjusting camera angles,filtering out swears , dropping screws nuts and bolts, and just making sure they all went back in properly and that I didn’t have any left in the end is hard enough to keep track of let alone editing all of it after…that’s a ton of work brother! You make it look easy. Excellent video my friend!
Thanks Robby!! Ya repair/upgrade videos are the hardest to make entertaining lol. It not took almost 2 weeks to get this video completed! Then had trouble downloading it to my phone, I guess because it had 545 frames 🤣. So I had to split it into two videos then merge them together lol. Thanks as always! Hopefully it will stand ip to some big bashing! 🥊👊🤣😎
@user-kv1zx4eb1t I can just show you right here: How to BUILD RC CAR RAMPS- We put them to the test!! Ultimate launch platforms! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SnyqYnSc84o.html
Awesome video! It's really cool you explain what you are doing and also the attn to detail! You are so correct to much play in gears will destroy them much. much faster. Its great to let everyone know that you do need to upgrade to your style of driving! Just general messing around and driving is one thing and require not a lot of upgrades but a hard core basher handing out punishment and taking it to its full extremes is another and needs as much upgrading as you intend to dish out to it too! Again, great content! It will be fun to see your running it with the new upgrades. I am sure there is more wild stunts in store for this one! 😆
Thanks Brad! My goal is always putting as much info into an entertaining video as possible!! Good for everyone!! Yup gotta do upgrades or even more breakage will occur! There will be carnage anyway, I’m sure!
I was thinking about the 6s kraton as my first RC, but this video makes me think twice about that. …mainly because I didn’t realize you changed out the frame. Why wouldn’t I just buy the Traxxas Sledge instead of buying a 6s Kraton and the. Building second one?….or buying a exb roller?
Well I’ve seen pretty much any car with a metal chassis will bend. Mine was slightly bent and that’s why I changed it. The sledge doesn’t seem to be an exception. If you don’t plan to drive like I do, because I jump the absolute crap out of mine, you probably don’t need to worry about it too much. It is definitely the most fun car I have. A close second being the Rival MT10.
I found the big rock and 3S line in general after minimal upgrades of motor plate and metal spur to be much more durable than the kraton and the 6S line. It is with a 17 tooth pinion fast and strong. I have both kraton and big rock and the big rock wins for jump bashing durability. kraton is powerful and fun but the 3S line from Arrma is a bit ignored and underrated in some parts of the RC cars community.
I find the complete opposite. My 6s Kraton has far fewer breakages than my Granite and Big Rock. My friend Rival MT10, on the other hand, beats everything I've seen for durability.
I don’t have a granite or big rock yet. Been close to getting one or the other lol. The Kraton 6s stock isn’t bad, but still broke quite a few things, of course I’m pretty rough on it. After I beefcaked it in this video, it’s been a tank! Still need shock towers and upper diff covers.
Now that is one hell of a video, well done Evan. I purchased the same servo for the JLB 21101 and it fits perfectly, but the problem is that the JLB's servo spring is way too loose and it unscrews the base plate ( you know the thingy that the spring sits on - does that make any sense ? ), so since you keep on asking us if we have any requests regarding any issues and fixes, how about trying to find an idea for it to be more stable ( now did that also make sense ? I know my English is not that good ) .Anyway I really liked the video and I hope that you will take the time to look at this issue.
Thanks George! So does the brass ring loosen up causing the steering to become sloppy? I haven’t ran into this yet (which is surprising since my cheetah breaks constantly) 🤣
@@DerbyCityRC Yes it does . Ever since I replaced the ring and it's plate. Damn !!! Anyway just check it cause with all your breakages maybe you will come across this problem....😁 And you are Mr Fix it.!!!!
@@DerbyCityRC well to be honest this solution has crossed my mind ...... locktiting ( yes I know English is still a foreign language to me 🙃) the metal plate to the chassis hmmmmm !!!!
Honestly your English is not bad at all! If it’s a screw that screws into metal, loctite will probably help. I haven’t ever taken that apart on the cheetah (that I remember) so not quite sure how it’s assembled yet
Servo saver is easier than using snap rings ,,,take servo saver apart,and put washer's on tube of servo saver put spring back on put servo saver back together problem solved,,,I use a 70kg servo in my kraton...
I think I had an issue trying to take the servo saver apart. Like the servo hex slipping in the plastic maybe. It’s been a while. I know I didn’t try too hard since I already planned on using the snap rings anyway. I think my servo is 35kg. 70 would be awesome!
Ok listen arrma uses locktite on the red tube the servo saver is on so you gotta twist it good to break the blue industrial locktite arrma uses,,when you get servo saver apart put 3 washer on the servo saver tube,and put servo saver back together DO NOT OUT LOCKTITE BACK ON SERVO SAVER when you put servo saver back together,,now because of the mod I did to my servo saver it no longer works,,,with that being said ,,Do not forget to set steering end points it will saver your servo from burning up,,,and if you have not done it yet get a 70kg servo,and stick in your kraton
Push the plastic part of the servo saver down so you can grab hex a wrench,and twist the post till it unscrews...what I did ,,,or can just buy an adjustable servo saver..
Good questions! I actually will be doing a cheetah vs Kraton video soon. Cuz honestly they’re kind of comparable. The cheetah breaks much easier(though a bad enough landing will certainly smash the crap out of the Kraton), it also has Much cheaper parts than the Kraton. They both have their pros and cons for sure, with all the upgrades I did, I definitely have more in the Kraton. Probably around $1,300. Probably around $900-$1000 on the cheetah, but ONLY in repair parts from breakage.
If really does. But with its weight, you can’t fault it too much. However, with these upgrades it has been extremely strong. About to add some upgraded shock towers cuz those have bent really badly.
Lots going on here! We have very similar upgrades. I m lovin that servo also. Did you 100wt oil on all for corners? Looks like it sits higher than mine. Great vid man.
I know, very neat! Yes 100 in all corners. The thicker fluid doesn’t lift the car, but I thought I noticed it sat higher than before all the upgrades too. I’ve been wondering that. My springs are adjusted almost all the way down but they have been for a while.
@@DerbyCityRC The preload on the springs would affect the height, depends how much you ve cranked them down. I think im using 50-60 weight…not even sure tbh. Channel is lookin good!
Yes it will! The preload was adjusted for a while, it seemed like it sat higher right after all these recent upgrades. Could be an illusion lol. I put 50wt in one of my 1/16 scales and it seemed pretty good so wanted to go to 100 on this. May eventually swap out the pistons too. Thanks, I appreciate that!
Great video and very useful as always. Is the 100k front/read, 500k mid diff oil a bash specific setup? What handling characteristics does this produce?
Thank you! Not necessarily bash specific. Kind of an experiment. I’m actually thinking I may try thicker next time. Like 1 million in the center and 500k in front and rear. For the center, the thicker the fluid is, the more power will be transferred equally between front and rear axles. So more wheelies, but also quicker acceleration in the right conditions. More equalized power like that, should also mean quicker and cleaner flips in the air, in theory anyway. Front and rear thicker fluid will help keep the left and right tires from spinning too freely from each other, so one example would be on high speed turns, if one side of the car starts to lean, even if the other side comes off the ground a bit, it will have less of a chance to spin freely and keep more power to the wheels that stayed on the ground. Less “diffing out.” Hopefully that makes sense!
Thanks!! No I don’t think that would be too much. The 100 does well, but I think 160 would do well too. Have you seen my latest video? It’s a Kraton bash after doing all these upgrades. You can see how well the 100 keeps it from bouncing.
