ASA vs PLA 3D printed bolts and screw nuts

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Let's compare PLA vs ASA 3D printed bolts and screw nuts. ASA (Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is a technical material that is considered a successor to ABS. ASA is UV resistant and has higher heat deflection temperatures, but it is harder for printing, it requires higher temperatures, brim and some enclosure. This test is not only about ASA or PLA 3D printed bolts, but more about understanding properties of these materials.
Materials I used in this test:
Gembird PLA printed on Prusa MK3s
Prusament ASA printed on Ender3 V2
Ender 3 V2 on banggood (affiliate):
www.banggood.com/custlink/GGv...
Creality small enclosure (affiliate):
www.banggood.com/custlink/3KK...
Digital torque wrench (smallest 0.3-30 Nm)
www.banggood.com/custlink/mD3...
Contents:
0:00 in this video
0:22 introduction
2:12 designing bolts and nuts in Fusion360
3:00 cutting the bolt in slicer
3:24 3D printing PLA and ASA
4:49 analyzing bolts and nuts
9:00 pulling (tensile) test for bolts
9:43 tensile test results
9:53 shear stress for bolts
10:34 shear tests results
10:44 torque test for bolts
11:43 bolt torque test results
11:52 pulling test for nuts
12:30 results of nut pulling test
12:40 torque test for screw nuts
13:49 results of nut torque test
13:54 impact test
15:22 results of impact test
15:28 temperature test
16:03 conclusions
Mentioned videos:
Horizontally 3D printed bolts without supports:
• Testing horizontally 3...
3D printed object inside car - temperature test
• What 3D printing mater...
FDM vs SLA test:
• FDM vs SLA 3D printed ...
Support my work over Patreon:
/ mytechfun
or (PayPal link available):
www.mytechfun.com/donation

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Опубликовано:

20 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 98

@dr.ichduda5617 Год назад

Thank You for this great testing. It confirms other tests and my own experience. PLA is seen as a beginner's filament. That's true, because it's easy to use. But it's the hardest common filament, its the cheapest and, surprise, when tempering, its the most heat resistant! Only direct sunlight will harm it, so avoid it or varnish it, when possible. Tempering: use common salt, embed the PLA-piece in it, after heating at 110°C hold it at this temperature for 30 minutes, cool down slowly. Respect shrinking in layer direction (5%) and increasing 5% in height, equalize it with Your slicer. After that, PLA resists steam, no warping.

@CarlosChavez-gs1ld 3 месяца назад

The simple tests done here are GOOD. Good/smart thinking behind them and in carrying them out. Surprised how strong those bolts were. Well done. Thank you

@MagicGumable 3 года назад

I love your unbiased tests. Keep up the good work!

@jfkd2812 3 года назад

Nice comparison video. Your channel deserves much more attention!

@802Garage Год назад

I'm incredibly impressed by the strength of both! If you asked me how much weight an M6 bolt's threads would hold I would guess 10-20kg or so. Thanks for the tests!

@avejst 3 года назад

Great test as always Thanks for sharing :-)

@abdurrahmanmohamadrazip461 3 месяца назад

Tq again for doing these testing, appreciate it much. 👍

@gerson3035 3 года назад

Amazing video as always

@guruthossindarin3563 2 года назад

I'm about to try my first spool of ASA. If it's that close to PLA strengths it may become one of my favorites.

@emrage 9 месяцев назад

What did you think of it? Did you ventilate the room? Is it smooth surface finish or are you at the mercy of FDM printing lines?

@jonathan7744 Месяц назад

@@emrage I haven't had the need to ventilate the room, though I've only printed smallish parts so far. It prints pretty smooth even with water problems (I need to dry it). The lines arn't too bad on .12 layer height.

@stefanguiton 3 года назад

Great videos as always!

@radioactiveag2531 3 года назад

He's so knowledgeable. Love watching these bits.

@txm100 3 года назад

Thanks again, awesome methodology!

@jonomano3992 7 месяцев назад

Hey brother. Love the videos, Structural Airframe Mechanic here, most torques are done by the nut, since any clamping of a nut can deform, and usually the tq conversion from head tightening vs nut tightening is different too if that reference helps you understand why. But either way, all those prints far passed my expectations in pull strength, shear strength. I didn't except the threads to just pop out lol I thought they would just round down like a metal nut haha. Everyday is a learning opportunity!

@EricTViking 3 года назад

Another great video Igor - keep them coming. I'd love to see you do the same test as this but with PLA vs Taulman Alloy 910 (Nylon). I've had some good results with Alloy 910 for tough parts and would be interested to see how it stacks up against PLA as a benchmark.

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

Thanks Richard. Taulman Alloy 910? Deffinitly something I have to test in near future ;-)

@EricTViking 3 года назад

@@MyTechFun it's tough stuff. Check out the video on this page - the bloke is splitting 2x4's with an Alloy 910 printed chisel! PS. If you get some print at 285 degrees, 260 degrees isn't hot enough I've found. shop.3dfilaprint.com/alloy-910-hdt-black-175mm-1lbs-3d-printer-filament-18508-p.asp

@MindOfVacuity Год назад

Absolutely fantastic videos!

@medyk3D 3 года назад

Great work!

@Medievalfan94 2 года назад

I really liked you impact restistance jig! Thats such a simple device and yet it prooves to deliver great results and quantifiable results at that.

@MyTechFun 2 года назад

Thanks. Probably it is not visible, there are two ball bearings inside a hammer. And I got several comments, why I am not measuring the angles like all others do. The reason is simple: in calculation we need height. Measuring angle is only secondary info and from it we have to calculate heights. But with digital cameras I can record height directly.

@Medievalfan94 2 года назад

@@MyTechFun well, with cameras you always get a slight paralax error when reading a scale. Thats why a angle measurement might be more precise, even with the conversion (its just trigonometrics anyways). Have you thought about systematic error by performing a control swing without a sample? And regarding the ball bearings: removing grease and putting in oil and removing the seals should make it swing with less resistance.

@MyTechFun 2 года назад

@@Medievalfan94 I know about paralax error, that's why I use ZOOM lense from max possible distance and paper is only few mm from hammer. Before measuring I swing the hammer without test sample, to get ZERO position (then even that minimal friction is included too).

@Medievalfan94 2 года назад

@@MyTechFun You, Sir, know what you are doing! Well done.

@runklestiltskin_2407 3 года назад

Great, looking forward to seeing how siraya tech blu will perform! Can you include some creeping tests? In my experience the tough resin prints tend to creep heavily under load

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

I am not sure about creeping test, if I will do it. Too slow test and depend of several parameters (the standard test). Or maybe just on room temperature, load it and watch the deformation during the time (?). I will think about it. Thanks for suggestion.

@santiagoblandon3022 3 года назад

Great video! I believe ASA is the "good all around" filament for consumer level printers; stronger and stiffer than PETG and ABS, tougher than PETG and PLA, more temp resistant than PLA and PETG, and not as expensive or difficult to print as PC. oh... and the print quality is superb :)

@3dPrintingMillennial 3 года назад

Just ordered my first spool.

@twentycentpiece 3 года назад

ASA is also UV stable which is why it's my go to material for outdoor functional prints. Plus I love the matt finish it has :)

@LuLeBe 2 года назад

It isn't renewable though so should be used only after consideration.

@jamesball6069 3 года назад

Thanks for the real world tests. Excellent.

@ahumanperson3158 3 года назад

Great Video!

@MikEfford 2 года назад

Would love to see how PETG compares to ASA and PLA in this type of test. It's more ductile so the failures might be quite different.

@MyTechFun 2 года назад

Maybe this video will give you the answer ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YI9dcCAQV1A.html (and I am preparing Polymaker Polylite line test PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, PC)

@Gracinda80 3 года назад

Great work! Would be nice to see a material density comparison chart that includes metals. We know metals perform much better, but these materials can actually have acceptable "industrial" aplications.

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

I am collecting all ideas for comments. But material density can be found easily on internet. Maybe stress comparison? But not even close, metallic vs 3D printed. About industrial application, I found more and more places where 3D printed bolts could be used. We will see, when I will start testing even stronger materials, like Nylon or PC.

@Gracinda80 3 года назад

@@MyTechFun I know material density and Young's module are info easily found online. I just think a comparison chart would supplement this study in an interesting way, by putting some material's properties into perspective. Curious to see your progress on the stronger materials front.

@billbyrd9845 2 месяца назад

Thank you for your testing. For US audiences, it may be better to speak slower. I was disappointed that the ASA was not superior in all cases. But, it is what it is. Thank you.

@billereses4935 3 года назад

I like your tests! I am little bit surprised, that ASA is not "stronger" than PLA... This was my "feeling" from what I have heard so far. But only one thing about ASA: On the Prusa spool it states "260 +/- 10°C) and you used the lowest of these values (probably you could not go higher with the Ender Hotend / Heatbreak, because not All-Metall one). Maybe if yo used 260-270°C would be (much) better in comparison to PLA?

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

I have some own experiments (not published on YT), where I tested strength in horizontal position in function of printing temperature. Hardly noticable difference. (unlike with specimens printed in vertical position, there is very big effect of temperature to strength). Maybe I could investigate this a little bit more.. About strength (to static loads), not big surprise, check this very useful table, the "Ultimate Strenght" line www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/

@billereses4935 3 года назад

@@MyTechFun interesting table, thank you!

@joshsekel 3 года назад

It would be great to see some PC+ thrown into the test ring too. PC+ is no harder to print than ASA, so it should be doable for most people. I like the new tests as well. Temperature is something I often have to battle with, so it is great to see. Adding cold performance might be an interesting twist too. Where I live we go from 40 in the summer to -30 in the winter, so brittleness due to cold is also a concern.

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

- More and more materials will be tested, PC too. - Yes, very interesting idea. I tested only upper limits, lower not yet. -30°C? Where do you live? Check this video, you may find it usefull: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QdAKd_YbsjI.html

@rizqiv2 3 месяца назад

very nice work, please add PETG next video

@mundomecamaker4207 2 года назад

Very good video!!

@travisgillespie2819 2 года назад

Very cool, thanks for sharing 👍

@travisgillespie2819 2 года назад

Follow up question. What is the tool you use at 8:15? It looks like a gear with hex bore. Can you share some info on where to buy or how to create?

@ScurvySander Год назад

If I wanted an ASA print to be the same size as a PLA print, should I upscale the ASA model before slicing?

@parvariramin Год назад

Do you have to change the part of the printer to print ASA? I have a brand Anycubic kobra Neo printer and I want to print ASA with it, but I don't know if I can or should I change a part?

@cyphre 3 года назад

Love the tests! Although looking forward to some upgraded rigs. I don't think it would take much to make something similar to CNC Kitchen's impact test rig with the little secondary arm that rotates with the hammer.

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

I don't need it. That arm is used from old testers. In calculation I need the height, not the angle. With camera I can measure the height directly. With arm, the height is calculated, depend of the length of hammer too. Precision is not equal, depend where is the stopping angle.

@Megavoltamper 3 года назад

Alapos és precíz, mint mindig!

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

Köszi!

@dangerous8333 2 года назад

I'm getting poor layer adhesion on my Ender 3 v2 with 3dxtech ASA, even at 255. Bed is level. No problem with bed adhesion at 110 which is a bit high. 3Dxtech says 255 - 110 is the max for this filament. I have the same enclosure that you have. I'm going to try fiddling with fan settings. Have you made a few exhaust system for that thing yet? I noticed you mentioned it in the video. ASA smells bad and is way more toxic than pla. I printed one thing and stopped and I bought a 2 1/2 inch vinyl wrapped HVAC hose 25 ft and I'm using a 4-in external computer fan. The fan comes with an adapter to plug into a normal outlet. I bought it to cool my batteries for my drones while they're charging and to pull soldering smoke away. I was going to 3D print a reducer duct (I'm not sure what it's called but it's the cone shaped thing between the fan and the hose) but I find it's just a waste of plastic and electricity, so I just made one out of cardboard. Works great and I think I spent $35 on everything.

@MyTechFun 2 года назад

I have some ASA which requires 270°C for good layer adhesion. But with Ender3 you shouldn't go over 240°C for longer time (fumes). One of solution may be to disable the cooling fan, use it only for some big overhangs or briding, but only 20% fan. Exhaust, not yet, since I constantly move my enclosure to printer, where I need it. But usually, after longer printing, I use vacuum cleaner with added flexible pipe to exit. You just need window where to put that exit pipe. 1 minute air sucking is enough after the printing.

@robdotreynolds 6 месяцев назад

Very good video facts and information, not talking nonsense for 3 mins like the US videos

@gen0megen0me93 3 года назад

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="750">12:30</a> is a mistake on description comparing to the latee table

@user-yf1zm8hq9x 10 месяцев назад

Is it safe to print indoor with asa?i am wondering about the fumes...

@randomname3894 3 года назад

I’m in my first spool of ASA and my first test we’re really bad with no housing. Now I’ve build a housing, but didn’t tested it further. I need to try it again, has anyone a preferred chamber temperature for it, or experience with chamber temperature in general? Is there a way to not get any shrinking with ASA?

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

Temperature inside enclosure can be 40-50C but it is important, don't open it before printing is finished. Any breze or air moving can ruin the print. Explained here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YA1ebCIUppw.html

@randomname3894 3 года назад

@@MyTechFun Thanks! Moving air seems to make a lot difference. Without housing, there was a big difference between open and closed door of my room. Printing a skirt around the object in full height, to surround it, is a also a tip i´ve read somewhere.

@Erdogan309 2 года назад

i have ender 3 v2. But asa I can't print filament. I bought a cabinet for my printer. It isn't happening

@mcdomy 5 месяцев назад

Dear Igor! As I good seen, you are printing the ASA at 245°C. Is your hotend stock in the Ender 3, or have you upgraded it? In the forums I read, the stock hotend recommended Tmax is 240°C. Thanks for the answer!

@MyTechFun 5 месяцев назад

My Ender3v2 has at least 10 upgrades. I don't remember when but it has MicroSwiss all metal hotend (latest NG extruder)

@neilfpv 3 года назад

That's a cool tool, the tool that makes threads. What is it called? Btw, so looks like PLA is stronger than ASA?

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

TAP and DIE tools. PLA is stronger on static load, but it is very brittle and very sensitive to temperature.

@MSM5500 2 года назад

"PLA is stronger than ASA?" It all depends at what temperature you print the material. The higher temperature the better adhesion between layers. So the better adhesion between layers the more strength the material has. For instance, ABS printed at 240C is not the same as ABS printed at 260C. And ABS printed at 260C is not the same as ABS printed at 265C. They even look different to one another. We have no idea at what actual temperature the tested parts were printed at. Also we have to take into account the fact that filament called "ABS" and made by one manufacturer might be considerably different to the "ABS" made by another manufacturer. BASF ABS is totally different plastic in comparison to eSun ABS.

@neilfpv 2 года назад

@@MSM5500 That is awesome! I was never aware that change in printing temperature can make them stronger. I'll try it on a TPU since I don't have any PLA right now. Thanks a lot!

@jacquesvanzyl2600 5 месяцев назад

Good day. What is the temperature inside your enclosure for ASA? I'm struggling withe 80mm x 80mm base lifting in the corners even with 15mm brim.

@MyTechFun 5 месяцев назад

Approx 50°C. Against warping try: slow down the printing, don't use bigger layer height than 0.2mm, use glue stick, don't open the enclosure during the printing, if necessary, try to preheat the enclosure 10-15 mins before start (set bed temp to 100°C)

@jacquesvanzyl2600 5 месяцев назад

Thanks for your help. My temp was at 35°C. Is it still fine for the printer to operate at 50°C. Will try glue stick as well. Using PEI bed

@MyTechFun 5 месяцев назад

@@jacquesvanzyl2600 35°C is fine if the printer is not a bed slinger (like Ender-5 or similar). 50°C is fine in most cases (for example, prusa has passive cooling PSU, needs to be moved outside or Ender-3 V2 needs some mods, since the mainboard fan is rotating only if the part cooling fan is on too) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GsymnDDAjiE.html

@daitedve1984 Год назад

PLA *surprisingly* become better! Before video I bet on ASA. :) Just one guess: maybe *this* ASA material is not good and better try another manufacturer? Guess #2: maybe printing of ASA requires more "playing" with parameters? (more hot end, slower printing, etc). In any case it's technically right test, thanks for it! Sorry, didn't catch your name - are you IGOR?

@MyTechFun Год назад

Thx. And yes, Igor. This is old video, more and more tests confirms that PLA is very strong material, but only on room temperature.

@AndrewHelgeCox 3 года назад

Do you have links for the bolts used in your test setup?

@AndrewHelgeCox 3 года назад

The bolts with rings on top that you screwed the printed nuts onto.

@AndrewHelgeCox 3 года назад

Never mind, I found plenty searching for "M8 eye bolts stainless steel". Love your work.

@samaeybelgium Месяц назад

Thread M8 is too narrow for hobby fdm printers i think.I make my own threads and keep them very large .

@Mister_Stork 3 года назад

Why are you not printing the screw vertically on the screw head? 🤔

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

Tested. The answer you can find in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZiQek0wei1g.html

@Mister_Stork 3 года назад

@@MyTechFun wow, thanks! Subscribed 😉

@radioactiveag2531 3 года назад

Anyone care to help a fellow 3d printer newbie? I have been 3d model making since the early 2000s but only recently started 3d printing. I made a rather simple toothbrush holder but am having issues with missing layers in my slicer. Anyone care to give an idea of what may be happening? I am happy to share the files. Thanks fam.

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

Try posting this comment to FB group, like this one: facebook.com/groups/450632562376838

@robertstopinski1673 7 месяцев назад

So, PLA is stronger then ASA yes?

@lezerfoka 10 месяцев назад

Szeretném, ha elérhető lenne a felirat a videókhoz. Gyatra az angolom... Köszönöm. :)

@randywatson8347 Год назад

Hmmm supprising for PLA.... thnx!

@MyTechFun Год назад

Not surprising to me any more, I did several tests now. PLA is very strong material, but only on room temperature. During the time it also creeps (deformation under constand load)

@NicksStuff 3 года назад

What would annealed PLA do?

@MyTechFun 3 года назад

First of all, it would shink and deform (unevenly) and it would be unaccurate bolt. There are methods to remelt it in sand or salt, but that's complicated process. Annealing gives better results in layer adhesion, but these bolts are printed horizontally, it wouldn't had significant effect to it (except thermal resistance)

@NicksStuff 3 года назад

@@MyTechFun You're right, these wouldn't be good candidates for annealing

@Rafik-ch1qd Год назад

czemu nie drukujesz pionowo -_-

@polskitygrys4951 3 года назад

handy dandy video I say!

@janyjozsef Год назад

OK. PLA degrades. ASA does not. PLA lifetime 2 years.

@MyTechFun Год назад

Not really. PLA will degrade only under industrial composting circumstances. I printed some PLA sandbox toys for my daughter 2 years ago (sand, humidity,..) still in perfect shape. Biggest problem with PLA is the temperature above 35-40°C

@janyjozsef Год назад

@@MyTechFun We have 35...40 degrees C in the summer. A roll of PLA spontaneously began to break. It was stored in the room.