Impressive that your layer adhesion (27 MPa) and tensile strength (48 MPa) are very close to the published datasheet (32 MPa, 44 MPa). It's a confirmation of the quality of your results and of the honesty of Polymaker. The impact test is spot on, 10.6 vs 10.3!
Igor, awesome as always, thank you for the great info. This video has two takeaways for me: 1. ABS/ASA Needs to make a comeback as a filament for making functional items. It’s properties are great, and once you figure out warping, it is a breeze to print. 2. I think there is a Voron in your future! Im just about to do the accelerometer tuning on my V2.4 and it really is a beast of a machine. Can’t wait to see yours ;).
Very well done. This is an excellent reference video to save and share with others. Your channel is quickly becoming my favorite 3d printing and tech channel. Thank you for all the work you put into these videos.
Amazingly detailed testing of various materials from Polymaker. Always nice when it's all from the same manufacturer. Polycarbonate is very impressive overall, except for that impact test. It was so close to being the perfect plastic. :)
Great video! Interesting to see that in both, yours and CNC Kitchen tests the tensile strength of Polymaker materias are higher than on their own datasheets
Bravo! One of the best head to head filament tests I've ever seen. I love it! I have to criticize one thing. The second creep test with the screw. You probably would need to oil the threads of the bolts/nuts to get accurate and repeatable results. Re-torquing a bolt that is dry has a lot to do with overcoming the friction of the threads more than anything else. Not sure if any oils would actually affect the filament polymers, maybe something silicone based could work instead of petroleum/hydrocarbon based.
Wow, exceptional video, by far the most comprehensive comparison of printing plastics I’ve seen to date! You deserve waaaay more subscribers than you have, I hope the word about your channel gets around more, this is such useful information.
Thank you for doing all this research - and for making it public. It's a huge asset to the community. Your results are fascinating. It's interesting how the PolyLite PC outperforms the PolyMax PC. Do you have any ideas why? I'm puzzled.
Sweet, glad to see they sent you such a large variety! Polymaker is one of my favorite filaments by far! I j just recently got a roll of polymax too and wow it prints great and feels crazy strong.
I really hate that Polymaker claims their ASA filament is good up to ~100°C and ABS filament is good up to ~98°C based on their ISO75 test. Unfortunately, in real-world applications, ASA only hold up to about 75°C before parts start deforming badly. Your test confirms this! I understand that Polymaker needs to blend their filaments to make them easier to print without requiring 80°C-90°C enclosures, but it's somewhat misleading for those who aren't aware of these limitations.
Nice video! ASA is definitely the way forward. 👍 Imo unless I'm strictly prototyping something, I couldn't imagine being comfortable printing any production parts in PLA, or even PETG...the constant worry that the sun's rays will kill the print cheapens the whole 3D printing affair to child's play. PLA/PETG are great on-paper but suffer in the real world, especially where UV exposure is concerned. PLA especially so, put some PLA (even PLA+) out in the sun and watch the chaos unfold 😅 As for ABS, it's ancient now and not designed for 3D printing in the first place
Late replay, but petg doesn't suffer from UV exposure like you're pointing it out, have some petg hangers and frame for solar powered lights for almost 3 years and i live in a place where temperaturas change a lot (Summer between 30-40c and winter between 2 to -7c), plus I'm from chile, aka the country under the hole of the ozone layer.
@@MRbasthor Quick google search to refresh my memory. PETG is actually sensitive to UV exposure, although it's better than some polymers and worse than others. One example (yours) of a well designed part that hasn't failed yet does not mean PETG is 100% UV resistant. And ASA is definitely better. That's his point.
PETG is definitely more resistant to UV but it's still affected by it in my experience. Depends heavily on the thickness and design of the part too though. It's possible to have a part thick enough and big enough so that any deformation is less visible
Awesome … any chance you have an excel sheet of all the filaments you’ve tested? That would be interesting. Like.. which one is the strongest of all, the most flexible etc.
But in what case should a 3D printer component need to resist impact? I don't get the reasoning, it looks like to me that still if possible pc would be a great material to make a 3d printer. Anyway, love the testing videos can't wait for the next one.
Exactly what I was asking, the only I potential impacts i see are sensor less homing, parts with a normal function of a 3d printer should not be exposed to impact. One thing though is that I warned that PC will crack if exposed to grease or lubricants, so bearing proximity or if you lubricate some parts next to it may cause a problem
@@alext1006 but then I would expect different types of tests to expose it,similar to the creep test he was showing, as this test deals with sudden shock.
Its not only about 3D printer parts but all kind of stuff. Like 3D printed drones for example. When they land they can breake if made out of PC. Or mobile robots. Motorized prototypes with a swinging arm. RC cars. Etc
@@lockeboss502 yes for THOSE i would expect the impact test to be valid, like i said i wanna build a lithium-ion battery holder for cells to be spot welded and even though it's meant to be incased in foam and heat shrink i still wouldn't want it to be brittle, but for 3d printer parts who aren't meant to suffer shocks, not seeing the connection .
Another great video, thanks for your effort! I don't want to ask for too much, but any chance you could do a wear-test? I print a lot of sheaves for pulleys, both for plastic braided ropes and wire ropes, and would love to see how these materials hold up for wear (for instance, if the sheave gets stuck on the axial, how much damage would the rope do to the sheave).
Thank you for the great video! Do you have any idea why the results of your heat tests for ASA/ABS are so much worse then then in Polymaker's datasheet? They suggest 100 degrees softening temperatures, but yours seem to be completely failing at 80 degrees.
Is it normal for the Polylite ASA to have low layer adhesion? My PLA+ and PETG test samples broke across the layer lines, but the ASA test samples kept splitting along the layers. I tried increasing the temperature and the extrusion multiplier, but nothing really made much difference.
I tried a roll of polylite ASA. Its very hard to get it to stick to my pei bed. Tried different temps, gluestick but it still warps or lets go completely. I have a lot less issues printing ABS. Defenitly not going on my go-to list this filament
Hello, grat test really, You put a lot of time in it. Can You compare PA\Nylon with all of these? And maybe more exotic materials like PCCF and others in the future. Cheers
Hello there, I wonder why nobody do quimical tests like acids oils and carburants because I have interest in those to make engine parts for bikes and cars....thank you
Hello sir. Great video. Maybe you can help me out with my problem. I order 3d print some wheels for my RC car sla technology pa12 and they broke. What kind of 3d printing plastic i need to order?
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Thanks I have wanted to see the creep test. I print polylite abs with an enclosed ender 3 with 25% fan. If I don't use the fan I get poor surface quality with polylite abs. Did you use the fan on the abs and asa test prints?
That nice spool is now replaced by low quality soft cardboard. This is the biggest issue with polymaker. The TERRIBLE cardboard rolls. They should come with plastic rolls or refillable if they really want it environmentally friendly. The cardboard spools are not even or durable enough for high quality printing. This needs to change. I prefer good material and will recycle the rolls manually if I need to but I need a real durable spool not a cheap mess. This is really a downside for me as I have seen many times that the cardboard spools get uneven, skewed or damage in some way and this causes issues. This is of zero advantage to the consumers and only causes issues. This makes other brands simply superior. Just recycle the spools. The material itself isnt better in any way but they lost on the spool.
