With the help of this video you'll be able to assembly your BMW Motorrad key cylinder fast and easily adapting it to your ignition key, so that you will need only one key to open your panniers.
following this video i got it right in 1 attempt. i have come back to this video several times to key different cases for bmw bikes i have had. thanks and awesome representation!
I want to tell you how grateful I am for his video. I used your incredibly helpful video to fix this issue on my BMW GS today. Even with my very fat, uncoordinated fingers, it took me only 8 minutes to watch your 6-minute video and another couple minutes to fix the tumbler. Huge thanks!
Thank you for the very fast delivery of my panniers (R1250RS) from Germany to France, and thank you also for this great little video that you gave the link for on the slip with the panniers. I am sure that I will be dealing with you again.
Used this video about three years ago and again just now to set locks of retained panniers to new bike key. Easy to follow, second pannier and top box took a lot less time once I was back up to speed. There's a good video on here on how to remove the locking catch assembly section from the box itself if required but in reality, just remove the three cross head screws and withdraw the assembly. I found taking a few photo's helped me put the yellow locking cam back in correctly.
Note: the wafers are not random , the higher the number, the deeper in the lock cylinder they will sit. If the 1 wafer is up high, just jump ahead to a 3 and you should be flush. Also if you apply light grease to the lock cylinder before starting, you won't lose your Springs or wafers as you work on it. The lock should be lubed before installing anyway.
@@davidwill7248 when you remove a lock cylinder from factory luggage the wafers have a type of grease both lubing the lock and retaining the springs and wafers in the lock . Any type of grease will extend the life of the lock cylinder and the luggage .
Great video. Just make sure that the plates are completely flush both sides of the barrel. Blades can appear 'flush' on the entry side of the chamber but can protrude out the other side. There must be no blade visible on either side of the barrel when the key is inserted. Follow that and you will know everything is good!
I watched a number of other videos. Some were reasonable. This video is very well done. The thing I used most was the diagram with the letters. That told it all.. Really appreciate your time to make this video. Thanks from Brisbane Australia.
Remus Avram If you examine the hole for the cylinder you will see 4 areas of lows (12, 3, 6 & 9 o’clock position) bordered by high areas. The high area around the 2 o’clock position has a ramp to depress the locking pin in the cylinder. Insert the cylinder with the locking pin pointing at the 2 o’clock position and twist it to the 12 o’clock position as you insert it and you’re done.
I found that I had too many "1" so I had to leave one of those out on each barrel to make it work , thanks for the video as the instructions were a bit hard to follow , cheers Michael .
Do we know "why" there is a slot E if it is always supposed to be left empty? It seems like something that could easily get us into trouble unnecessarily.
You clearly have an older model lock cylinder. No worries , just apply some light grease to the cylinder and the locking wafer and the others will stay in place. They didn't have the "stepped" lock wafer until perhaps 2014-2015.
Does anyone know if this process can be followed when coding the key barrel that supplies the Navi holder as well? Mine didn't come with a Navi holder, so I purchased a second hand, with the barrel in. I hope I can make it work. Do you know if I can use it with the barrel off??
Hi! I just bought a 2014 R1200RT and I'd like to add a top case and code my key into the lock. Can you help with 2 concerns I have, please? 1. The spare key that I have has a code attached with it. Could that help when coding a new cylinder? 2. Do you have any tips where to buy a new cylinder that may be coded? All I find is $65+ prices. Thanks!
If the wafers are "locked in" then the cylinder is one from a saddlebag included with a motorcycle that came equipped with bags such as a RT . OR the dealer ordered the lock cylinder for a topcase from BMW by VIN. then the cylinder comes pre-coded to the bike and the wafers are pinned in . Most dealers keep the cylinder kits in stock to key a topcase to a bike when it is sold rather than making a customer wait the days for the VIN specific lock cylinder. I say most.
Good question :-) Probably this slot is a standard lock cylinder configuration and is always produced like this. Maybe to fit to other motorbikes. We do not know it exactly. Is only a guess... But you are right, without this slot it would be a little easier.
Also if the 7th tumbler is left installed in slot "E" as you describe it, the lock cylinder can be installed, the lock can be locked and unlocked, but you cannot remove the key.
They are not avail separately but many dealers keep a lock kit somewhere in the store for re-keying locks with extra wafers and springs. Extra lock wafers are extremely rare though. If you are saying that not all the slots are filled in your cylinder, you have no worry. Even 2-3 wafers is all you need to have a secure lock. Be sure you remove the Springs from any unused slots to prevent them from jamming the lock.
