This one took me a little while to figure out, and there are some helpful videos for sure, but I think I can bring a bit better understanding of how to get these removed and re-keyed.
Okay, got the cylinders out. Two useful pieces of information if you are doing this: 1. The wafer you need to move is about 23.5mm depth from the face of the lock, and 2. the point of your tool should be facing "Open", or away from "Release". You then push the wafer toward "Open".
Hi Cuban Rider. I would just like to say that your explanation of how to release the cylinder was the best on You Tube. Ive been trying to get the cylinder out for 3 days and once I found your explanation of how to release the locking plate, it just flew out. What a fright I got ha ha. Fantastic. Many many thanks dude.
i did it but i insert the key very hard and i take it out. it works but not very well. Where do you think I made the mistake? I can't unscrew the cylinder lock to set it up again. I'll be glad, if you help me. thanks
Very helpful, clear and understandable! One question: since the back wafer can move in only one direction to remove the cylinder, is there any way to tell which direction to go when the lock is installed on the bag? Thanks
Really good question. In my case my normal position is with the last "locking" wafer facing up, so if the keyway is horizontal, that would make the wafer lock to the right side, so you'd have to "pick" to the left to defeat the spring.
Without the current correct key inserted, won’t all the other wafers be also sticking out? If so, won’t that prevent the cylinder from being removed? Or do the wafers that the key moves, not obstruct the removal of the cylinder when they are protruding?
You don't need the key to remove the cylinder, you just need to engage that last spring-loaded wafer to pull the cylinder out. Once out, you can rearrange the wafers to match the key you have.
If I brought my gsa top box with the lockset installed (I do not have the key) would you key it for me to my new gsa? You reside in east TN right? Thank you, TJ
The easiest method in my opinion would be to use a shim between the cylinder and the lock body which will sit between the 2, while holding down all the wafers/pins the cylinder will slide right out. You just insert the thin metal shim at the face of the lock all the way back(not in the keyway, but between the cylinder and the body of the lock) and then slide sideways, between the wafers and the lock body. It will pop right out. This won't work with all locks because sometimes the space between is blocked off or too tight.
I thought about it. The problem is that without the key inserted, all the wafers are sticking out and there's no room for a shim to go. I tried to insert a very thin pick while the core was still inserted to try to get to that last clip holding the core in place, but had no luck. I mean, there's always a way around it, but I'm no lockpickinglawyer. I'm sure he would figure out 5 different ways to get this thing open.
Ok, I have seen your riding the Deals Gap area many times & thought you lived here in the south east. No trips planned this way anytime soon? I am being told that the only way to remove the lock core in my gsa is by drilling it out & then possibly damaging the core.
Not sure what you mean. Are you installing a new cylinder? The spring loaded wafer that holds the entire cylinder is place is just on one side, you don't turn it, you slide it in until it clicks in place.
I am installing new cylinders and you just answered my question Basically it can only go in one way to lock in place for use. Thanks very much for this
