You probably got the kit 18-55mm kit lens with your camera and you can give it a whirl with that. It's only f/4 at 18mm but it will give you a taste and you can use 15-20sec exposures. If the bug bites you can look at better quality lenses with a wider aperture. The Samyang/Rokinon 14mm is f/2.8 and gets pretty decent results.
Ohhh my god , Glenn - Thank You! You wouldn't believe how tough I've found it to just get the basics starting points for my DSLR / Lens set up. Got Canon 650D and a 70D and just now getting a Ef-S 50-250mm EOS lens. I'm now actually pretty damned motivated to get out of Melbourne's lights and get shooting!
G'day, Richard, glad you found it useful. Just note that a 50mm lens requires a much shorter exposure time than the "start at 15 seconds" I mention in the video if you want to avoid obvious star trails. If you've got the kit 18-55mm lens and zoom out to 18mm the 15sec will work much better.
I have my first class for Astrophotography tomorrow night so I have made notes of your suggested setting and tips. Good video for beginners like myself. 👍
G'day Glenn, thanks for the video, great content. My question to you is around a recommendation for a camera which can do astrophotography but is small and compact enough to carry on a motorbike. I am trying to connect both of these passions. I travel regularly to far flung places and to date have relied on my Olympus TG-7 to get the job done. Its sturdy, waterproof and doesn't take too bad of a photo. Unfortunately, I do not think it will cut it with astrophotography. What do you recommend I look at the replace the TG-7, and is small and compact enough to carry in my tank bag - a full frame DSLR is just way too big. Let me know your thoughts mate!
G'day, Andrew, I'm glad you found the video useful. There's a few _it depends_ in my answer but basically you will need a dose of pragmatism and compromise in the mix. Typically the smaller the camera gets, the smaller its sensor is ie: full frame, to APS-C to Micro 4/3. The smaller your sensor the shorter your exposure time at equivelent focal lengths compared to the larger sensors, which means higher ISO for equivelent exposure, and the rub is smaller sensors don't handle high ISO as good as the bigger ones. With those caveats, Have a look at the Canon R8 which gets you that full frame sensor but not a properly big DSLR body. The full frame both great for astro and travel landscape. If that's still too big, consider something like the Canon M6 which is an APS-C sensor. You get the smaller form factor but still an ok outcome. Going down from there you get into Micro 4/3 cameras which while they can do astro, the larger sensors do it better - depends on your expectations. BTW when I used to ride motorbikes I never like my camera gear (other than the tripod) attached to the bike, I was always concerned about vibrations passing through the frame, so I would suggest considering some kind of small but accessible sling bag or similar.
Without tracking you’re really restricted in how long you can shot for before obvious star trails. 10sec or less with a full frame camera and around 5sec on a crop sensor.
@@GlennMartinPhotography Nust ordered the cleaning kit for my Canon aps-c sensor too from your links on that video. Thx for posting and hopefully you get something outta that for your efforts
Great video. I have a trip to NZ coming up & am planning to shoot the stars in one of the Dark Sky Project areas, so this is very useful. PS. I transplanted from the UK to the US in the early 1990s, and have never been able to bring myself to omit the "i" from aluminium.
Hi mate can I send you a photo I took the other night? I’m unsure what it is but it moves across the sky when I was taking photos of Jupiter it moves opposite to the earths rotation past Jupiter. It’s definitely not lense flair as I had a shutter remote and didn’t move the camera at all
@@GlennMartinPhotography I thought that but being in nsw it says best time to see it would be early morning just before sunrise these photos were taken around 11pm to midnight
