Atorch DL24 electronic load upgrade 

The weak link is the reverse protection diode in series with MOSFET drain to A+ connector. At 20A load the dual Shockley diode has 0.65v drop and dissipates 13 watts. It does not have the heat sinking to handle this for long period, relying solely on PCB heat sinking. It will help some if a small adhesive backed heat sink is is placed on PCB near diode and with fins height not to mechanically interfere with MOSFET heatsink above it. No concern if diode heatsink fins touches MOSFET heatsink fins as they are both common connection to MOSFET drain connection. There is no need for insulators between PCB and power MOSFET. Front and backside of PCB in the power MOSFET area is common connection to MOSFET drain. Insulator pads just increases heat transfer resistance to heat sink. Next weakest link is the two 1 watt 0.010 ohm shunt resistors. They are at their max power rating at 20 amps load. The stock IRFP260 MOSFET is capable of handling 30 amp if sufficient heat sinking is provided, but reverse protection diode and shunt resistors will likely get damaged. If the MOSFET is changed to a higher amperage device with greater Qg input charge capacitance the LM321 op amp driving the MOSFET can become unstable.

Oh my goodness, what a monster cooler =) Saluti dal vicino di stato.

Hi Sir, What is the max constant current load that can be set? Is there way to do 50A CC load? Power will be max 200W as the voltage is low. Thanks

please make a video about how to test a LIFO battery 100ah for RV

Hi, I blew the original FET on my 180W four-wire DL24. I replaced it with the IXFK360N10T that you suggest here, and after this it worked. At least until I went up to 150W, and then something shorted internally in the load. Luckily the 52V battery I had attached had a 40A fuse, which blew. Any idea what caused the internal short in the load and if it can be repaired?

I think a better approach to reverse voltage protection would be to include a 25-30 amp fuse in series with input and put the blocking diode reverse bias across the MOSFET drain. This should keep the reverse protection via the fuse while eliminating the heating created by blocking diode voltage drop.

Don't forget to upgrade the shunt resistors with higher value or you can solder more of them in parallel, otherwise you will blown your resistors, also you should upgrade your diode. Or the best mod is using multiple mosfets to have best heat dissipation ! This mod will fail on long term usage.

Is there a schematic of the DL24P somewhere?, I blew up my DL24P. Have replaced the MOSFET already. Is that sufficient? Measures voltage again, but not ready to test it at anything higher than 3V, Like to know what I;m doing first.

Que tal Con este aparato puede ver en que estado se encuentra una batería 60v 20amp? Gracias

I like over kill upgrade 👍

Good night friend. Congratulations for your video...I've had this equipment for about 3 years to test the capacity of 18650 battery packs that I make...but this week I don't know if I neglected it, but the input of the power supply connector smoked and I immediately turned everything off ... I don't know what happened, if the alligator clip accidentally touched one another or if a drop of water from my hand that had just been washed fell on some component of this board that is all exposed. Everything is working (LCD panel, fan) no scorching marks on the back of the board, but when I put any power source in the input of the power supply, it makes a strange noise and it already starts to let out a little smoke and I immediately turn it off. Do you have any idea what I can do to fix this problem? Any tips or advice would be most welcome! I would not and do not think it is a case of discarding the equipment. Thank you very much!

Hello I upgraded/modified the IXFK170N20T mosfet. IXFK360N10T was not available in my area. Unfortunately, I have a problem because the IXFK170N20T has already died and is short-circuiting. DL24 works properly up to 4.5-5A and 40V approx. 200Watt, above that it is turned off and it turns out that the mosfet is short-circuited :(. Can you tell me if I chose something wrong? Thank you in advance for your help Regards

Orjinal mosfeti yerine ne taktınız

Good day. I have exactly the same load at 180w. How did you unlock the power cap? I know that in the new version, with 4 connectors, it is possible to increase the power yourself to 1000w. But how can this be done on the old version? with 2 connectors. How did you turn off the 180w software limit?

Do you think I could use this to put a solar panel under a load to test it's actual power output?

I added the IXFK360N10T, but now the tester behaves like it is shorted. If I put the old MOSFET back on, it works again. Anyone experience this?

Nice upgrade video :D, I am looking to buy a similar cheaper CC load but my issue is that I want to also log these readings onto my laptop, is there a way to do it ? I have seen that it comes with PC software. Can you confirm if it has the option to log and see values in some sort of CSV, excel files :) Also, can it be programmed by the host so that I can tell it when to start discharging or so. if No, then do you know any other electronic cheaper CC load that can do a similar job but also can log data and is programmable. thanks alot , have a nice day

Hello friend, my mosfet burned out. Can I use IRFP260N instead of IRFP264?

Is the internal temperature displayed on the screen after upgrading the MOSFET?

Why voltage calibration when is possible to modify the over power limit ? 🤔I tested and the over power can be increased to 999W. Or you prefer to mess up all the readings from display.

Hello very nice what you doing.. I have this device with 4 connectors and its working very good in the past. But now I have a problem, because the voltage measure doesn't work now. All I tried it stays on 0 Volt. Sometimes I switched on the device, the voltage jump to 0,05v and then slowly decrease to 0v and this without connecting to the battery I would testing. Okay I know it's not your theme but maybe you can help me because I see you are a very good electrician guy.. Thanks and big greetings from Stephan Bendig..

Hello. Can you tell me why the irf260 is 180w and the mosfet you replaced is 360w, how to calculate it?

That heat sink is laughably big.

No extra wires from Vin resitors to the transistor? I doubt that trace is designed for so much power!

Que socket usas en el disipador? Intel o AMD?

Can I use IXFK250N10P?

i added de 1250w mosfet and it burned the board the r010 smd blowed up

areoooooo parla italiano

Too complex and expensive, just buy 2 of them and put them in parrallel.