I tried to do a kit of an OM in I think 2015. I got the sides joined, kerfing on, most of the braces, I did a lot of things to the neck, shaping it, and a few other things but I got intimidated by the process of attaching the neck and getting the right angle so I sent it to a real luthier friend to complete the kit. I see that your videos are not brand new, but I can see that I could have done it myself if I had watched these, just would have given me a couple of hints and confidence in myself. I can’t remember how many videos there were like this at the time, but either not many, or I didn’t think to look for them as I know now there’s extensive content on everything you can think of. I have ordered a good ukulele kit to get started again, because your videos have given me the inspiration to try again. Thanks for all your hard work putting these out there!
You can put sand paper face-out from the body, secure the body, and then rub the neck back and forth on the sandpaper to get good contact before bolting it on.
Skills and helpful instructions...great video.Gods continued blessings.Thanks for giving this video. That is a beautiful guitar. A great work in process.
not to shabby. quick and to the point and certainly enough to get you started and give a beginner a place to start and expand later. but including a tenon is probably going to be better in the long run and isn't all that difficult and im sure you'll try that soon enough. great video and thanks.
Very nicely done. If you don't have a drill press you can make a 90 degree guide in one of three ways. You can use a router bit of the size you want to plunge into a squared wood offcut. Provided your router base is at 90 to the bit, you will have a 90 guide hole in your block. You the use the block to guide the drill bit into the piece. Alternatively, you can make an L shaped piece with squared insides of the L and press the drill bit against the corner of the L. Finally, you could use the inside corner of a combination square (this is the least reliable of the 3, but still better than freehand). Cheers
Adam, I'm enjoying this build series. I have noticed your have a decent router table. I set my necks using a 3/4 inch dovetail bit making one pass for side, corresponding dovetail cut threw top of guitar and Hyde glue in, correcting set. Much easier than bolt on in my opinion. Or just say the hell with it and order a small CNC machine from China direct. Lol! Two calipers(pin & tail) and a good dovetail saw will make short work of it also. Good job!
If the channel you created with the router table is to "countersink" the inserts, I find it much easier to use a forstner bit to make a recess before I drill the insert hole. A brad point bit would work almost as well. My inserts also come with a hex drive built into them so I save the bolt and nut step.
Nice work but I'm curious as to how you allowed for the neck angle? Using a straight edge across the neck running over the body of the guitar, there should be a 2 to 3mm gap above where the bridge will be located. After the fretboard is put on, the gap should widen to approximately 9 to 10mm. This allows for the severe pull of the strings on the neck in order that the correct action & intonation can be achieved. Otherwise, the guitar will be unplayable. Anyway, keep at it.................. :) Steve
From what I gather from the videos so far, he will end up w/ a neck angle of 0 degrees ie., no neck angle. This was established when he cut the neck blank at an angle to match the heel block. I think this is the ideal case ie., a perfectly straight neck. But as you suggested, over time the neck is pulled forward by string tension, which will neccesitate adjustments to the saddle and/or bridge to keep the guitar comfortably playable. With no neck angle, I also think it may dictate having to have a lower bridge to begin with, which will make adjustments down the road more difficult. Disclaimer: I am by no means a luthier :)
@@andrewwalsh531 I build mine with using this bolt on method. I use a 1 to 1 1/2 degree neck block angle and the rest of the top is dead flat. Fretboard is glued to the top. Works perfect. Makes neck resets very easy later down the road if it is ever needed at all.
Hello Adam. About the guitar you made; how about the sound? On a scale 1 to 10, how good is it? Also, if you compare your guitar to those in sale, how much does your guitar worth?
I know you're building a guitar...but why go through the trouble if you're not going to make it at least 22 frets. Why do you have to keep building it the old fashion way?? Just screw on the neck from the bottom. This way you can get rid of that retarded tenon Make the guitar more playable and stronger.
