This is one of the coolest things I've seen in a while. From the mod, the filter system itself to the results. That picture on 7:17 of the playground.. Wow
Awesome video! Good to see the modification was successful. The IR photos coming out of the ZD are pretty sweet. A CCD medium format camera is pure dream material.
I remember drooling over the camera when it was first released - only a few years later the full frame cameras surpassed its image quality, speed and handling, but still there remained a mystery about this camera, just like the PhaseOne P65+ (which I was lucky enough to possess for a few years). With these modifications those older cameras are given a new life and purpose, I love it!
It's such a cool camera - definitely surpassed by others after it (even before it somewhat, came out kinda late) but a cool relic. I am super happy I got one for so cheap.
You should try the one shot method of digital Aerochrome with this! You use a deep yellow filter like a Tiffen #12 so that the blue channel is pure infrared, then with some photoshop trickery you subtract the blue channel from the Red and Green channels to get an Infrared-Green-Blue image. The video “Everything you should know about Digital Aerochrome” by the channel Photo Infrarouge goes more in depth into the process.
Or just buy the Kolari IR Chrome filter which works on a full spectrum camera and gives out of camera digital Aerochrome without post processing and channel swapping.
The Kolari Chrome filter is a good approximation but it only blocks out red light, the green and blue channels are still contaminated with infrared so you don’t get the true Aerochrome look. For landscapes you’d never notice the difference between the two but for cityscapes/portraits the difference is very apparent.
@@indextron2388 Thanks for the tip! I have heard of these methods but I have yet to delve into them. I will do so. This is with the Kolari IR chrome, which I know isn't necessary, but I've had good luck with it since my first full spectrum that I thought I'd give it a go here too.
This is a very neat modification you made. Industrial and scientific cameras have „bare“ sensors with a glass cover as well. I would caution you to get a broadband AR coated protective window if you intend to use this camera for any amount of time, as you will otherwise have nasty dust on you sensor rather sooner than later. Edmund optics or thorlabs probably offer something to suit your needs. I recently discovered that this is necessary the hard way, as I had been using a ccd camera with a bare sensor for a couple of months. Despite great caution, the camera only being on a tripod in my home and never taking off the lens. No amount of compressed air will get the dust off....
@@snappiness Also I can help you out with the focus issue on this camera. I sent you a dm on another platform you're on (I'm not sure I can write it in the comments). I'd be glad to help!
This is cool! It'd be even cooler if you managed to a put in an IR pass filter instead (that is, block visible light, let in IR light, so you can shoot IR only). I guess you could maybe do that just with a filter in front of the lens?
That's right, that's what I'm doing. So far I've played with a 720nm, an 850nm (love the B+W's on that one) and the Kolari IR chrome which is like a colored 550nmish filter. Putting the visible cut filters on the lens opens up the possibility to try lots of different kinds!
@@yorgle you don't even need the filter in the camera, you can just get one to screw onto the lens as snappiness did, but i agree, an internal one would be nice too!
I was sweating when your started with the screwdriver! Well done for getting that filter off, those IR images are really nice! Another interesting camera.
That's a cool mod and beautiful looking camera. I swear this channel will break my wallet! I bought the Pentax K10D off the back of one of your videos :)
Thank you for this interesting video. I'm not at all familiar with the Mamiya ZD, but it sounds very intriguing. I'm glad you mentioned the Sigma's, as I have SD Quattro and the camera is designed so that the IR cut filter is easily removed and replaced.
for the fujix ds330 i can confirm the sony replacement works, i own one and the camera is super fun to use, extremely reliable autofocus and the quality is very much baked potato
It’s the first time ai watch one of your videos. It is very interesting to find this camera, which is a precursor of my ZF. I have a contemporary CCD MF DSLR (a Leica S2) but in those the sensors were smaller.
Mixing in normal man made stuff with some sky and foliage is where this aerochrome esque kind of look really works I think. I need to make it out to a city or something.
@@snappiness Hey, another thing you might want to try: put in a clear glass filter with the same dimensions where you took out the IR cut filter - will that fix the focus issues?
@@weisserth yes, it would resolve the autofocus being so off I believe. The IR light will still be focusing a little different than visible, so I still would have to take that into account.
I won't try and pretend like I don't need a haircut. The crazier the hair, the crazier the photog. It's a fact. Oh, and save 10% off your batteries with code "snappiness" - bit.ly/WasabiPowerBatteries
Plot twist: James had straight hair until he started poking around the wrong side of this sensor. I like the tape to remove the IR CUT label from the no longer IR CUT cartridge.
Wow, great results for just a little headscratching and a few bucks on a spare filter. I recently found a Olympus E3 kit with the 12-60 f2.8-4. I'm stoked because I've never owned a flagship anything, lol. I thought it was a great deal at $155. I've always owned second hand cameras, most of which purchased at pawn shops, considering they don't know what they're selling half the time.
The Hasselblad X1D doesnt have any IR filtering... You can buy used around 2k. Edit: i am so sorry, it doesnt have Antialiasing not IR. My bad. I confused it..
Just bought an old K-5 so that I can convert from sdm to screw drive. I'm really liking the ergonomics/button layout and look of the camera. Feels more compact and "elegant!!" than my K3 II, so it'l be a shame not to use it. I might get it IR converted, but have to check out the cost first.
Very cool medium format CCD camera. I didn't know that digital medium format CCD cameras exsisted. I was wondering if you have ever looked into the 2002 Nikon D100? It has an APSC CCD sensor and is the exact same sensor that is used on the Epson RD1. I picked up a couple Nikon D100 cameras and am very blown away by the colors and filmic look this CCD sensor produces. If you get a chance pick one up they are pretty cheap compared to the Epson RD1 and produse the same images as the RD1. Would love to see a review on the D100 on your channel.
I have an RB67 (one of the cameras that the digital back mentioned works with), and it is insane how big the image is. And the IR filter I use is 3 inches in diameter, lol. Love the Chonk, embrace the Chonk.
Oh, thank you! Those do look right from the pictures. I'll double check the other specs when I'm home. Have you tried them yet? I was getting so lost because all the results I found were for the ZD digital back, which takes different batteries. This is great.
You can just learn to rebuild old batteries, it's not such a problem. They use standard cells, or you'll find just some sort of cells that will fit in there and are chemistry compatible. Modern cells are chemically more stable than old ones anyway, and lithium pouch cells absolutely do not mind being charged like old Li-Ion cells with the lower 4.2V termination voltage, you lose some capacity but gain a ton of extra endurance. As to the filter you can get someone in China to sell you a piece of IR-pass acrylic (looks reddish black) of the right thickness, that could be good for pure near-IR photography and it would compensate the optical path distance.
I've read about people rebuilding batteries, and I salute them. I would need to learn a lot more to feel comfortable with that haha. Awesome stuff though.
Let me recap: - Focusing is a guesswork - Metering is useless - Glasses user - It's trough OVF, not EVF Yup, you're playing on the hell mode. Time to using zone focus 😅
@@Finallybianca Maybe! I will plan on going again. I met up with two other photographers there and we had a bunch of fun chatting. All of us with older digital cameras :)
Cool! I also have an F717, along with an F828 that allows that as well. I am forgetting the name, but at least one other Sony camera from that era allowed that. It had a different body design. Anyway, great cameras.
A tip for the batteries. If you can't find one it should probably be decently easy to do some makeshift solution. As long as you know the correct voltage you can just get a battery with the same, or combine several batteries to get it. Then just run some wires to the camera's battery connectors and have the makeshift battery pack taped to the body or hanging loose.
That is very cool! Can you explain the metering thing though, if it’s not metering off of what the sensor sees, what does it matter if there is an IR filter over the sensor or not? Don’t DSLRs usually have a metering “module” (don’t know the term) that works by looking at light that is reflected by the second mirror?
Right, that's my understanding as well. Because the metering is not in the same path as through the filter anyway, it doesn't matter that I took the IR cut filter off - it's still only designed to meter visible light. There must be an IR cut over the meter as well, or however they do it. Otherwise your DSLR would always meter with both spectrums of light and be inaccurate that way. Mirrorless conversions have the advantage of this meter being off of the sensor anyway, so removing the IR cut means the meter is seeing the same light you're seeing. That's my understanding at least, I could be off somewhere in that.
I wish you didnt crack that filter! I have Hasselblad H39 back but accidently dropped from desk! Now large part of corner is cracked! It is still usable but only centre of sensor! I did not remove filter because it is too bare. I wanted that filter but I saw you cracked so game over. Yes I love shooting with older professional cameras. They are just fine for my use! Less megapixel the better because it is much easier on my Powemac G4 !
You don't *need* a filter on the front, but if you wanted to cut certain amounts of visible light then you would use it. Most infrared photography is done using some sort of visible spectrum cut filter on the lens.
@@snappiness much appreciated, for color or black and white? Think the Hoya 79 or something for bw. I wonder what the effects like Teal, and cine do with color when you change it.
The camera requires the use of a filter to operate, because the sensor does not natively have the IR Cut applied. So he removed the filter from the housing and just used the housing (without the filter) in order to trick the camera into letting him shoot. The filter cartridge inserts behind the mirror, in front of the sensor.
@@jcl651 Yeah that's right, thanks for answering! So now I have two cartridges - One that has the IR cut in it still for normal operation, and one without the filter (but still the housing.) Switching between them works like a dream!
I've bought quite a few Wasabi batteries, most worked, but the ones I bought for my Sony Alpha expanded and won't fit inside the camera. I got them from Amazon, I didn't know about Wasabi's replacement policy, guess I'll have to check out when I bought those.
If it was through their Amazon store they should still honor it. I would look into their warranty page and shoot them an email. They are super helpful people.
I managed to revive an old Nikon with an oddball battery that had died by cutting open the pack and replacing the cells. It wasn't easy but it can be done.
If you're interested in a Mid-range digital camera from 2003, I have a Lumix DMC-fz10 I'd be willing to send you for a video or for you to mess around with
I've removed the IR cut filter from my Sony A7 (bought specifically for converting). Try a filter stack of Lee 115 (peacock blue) and GRB3. Awesome results.
