Save 20% on your system and your first month is free when you sign up for Fast Protect Monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/jimsauto to customize yours! Try SimpliSafe risk-free. If you don’t love it, return it for a full refund within 60 days.
Hey guys I wanted to follow-up on your request for information regarding cast iron crack repair methods. My 87 year old father had a Automotive machine shop in central missouri that he shut down when he hit 70. I estimate he stitched 20 to 25 old cast iron blocks, as far as I know they are all still running without issue. The sealant that you use was not available 25 years ago. If he had a slow leak he would apply vacuum just like you did, heat the block and use a special low temp lead filler. (I still have 4 sticks in my toolbox). I also made some special peening punches for him. I will be 65 this September. I am a certified master mold maker. I have welded many different ferrous and non-ferrous metals and tool steel alloys that I doubt you have had the pleasure to work with. For large cast iron parts I use thermite, the information on how to make and use thermite was in the Machinery's handbook until 1944. I have welded hardened boat crankshaft journals. Everything I have watch in your videos are correct in my opinion. During my career I have been exposed to alot of unicorn chasing experts that talk a big talk but don't have the ability to do it. God bless you keep it going.
If that is the intake then I am sure you have it fixed if it's exhaust then as long it don't over heat I think it will last love to see the full rebuild and first run after
As a retired machinist I will say, this is a tuff one. The fix is apparent. Heat and cooling is going to tell the story. Send the block to the heater and let it cool , then pressure test it again. Keep up the amazing work. Do magic!
That's still pressure testing a cold block. An invalid test. As is a PRESSURE TEST if that is an INTAKE PORT and is exposed to manifold VACUUM. There are lots of "fixes" for those boat anchors on the "workbench". None of which are actual REPAIRS and ever work in a running engine. Which is why they are 100% "at your own risk" when a customer "on a budget" insists on trying to "fix" a cracked flathead block because its "apparently" cheaper than "sourcing" an actually GOOD SERVICEABLE UNCRACKED BLOCK. Which these days if you want a "guaranteed" good uncracked flathead block you pretty much have to buy a "parts car/truck" with it. A "running and driving" parts car/truck you can do a real ROAD TEST of the engine in. Other than that it's not even "rolling the dice" because dice produce a positive result EVERY TIME. "Sourcing" flathead V8 block/engine "cores" sight unseen - which is the case EVERY time they are not completely "torn apart" and hot tanked and shot-peened to 100% "clean" cast iron - only produces a positive result by "luck of the draw". Every time some noob Fordtard flathead "enthusiast" finds a "project" vehicle for "restoration" that comes with 1 or more "spare" flathead engine(s) or block(s) and "new parts still in the box" he or she thinks the "spares" just sweeten the deal and he or she has visions of "flipping" the "spares" to finance the "restoration". In reality all but EVERY TIME the "spares" were "sourced" at considerable expense even for GOOD parts but sky high SCRAP METAL PRICES by the "previous owner(s)" during their quest(s) to find a "good used" flathead engine/block "core" any professional machinist would even think about "tearing apart" to get it clean enough to "crack check" much less commit to "build" IF it was actually "rebuildable". If not for the "quality" of Ford flathead V8s Ford never would have had to "clone" Chrysler flathead 6s and there wouldn't be any "affordable alternatives" to Ford V8 projects. And anybody with a clue that wants an "old Ford" to "fix up" and "drive around" runs as fast as possible from V8s and right to a six-cylinder. A six-cylinder its practically impossible to "swap" a flathead V8 into "affordably" and therefore is very likely to be all original and "numbers matching". Meaning the "motor number" on the block matches the one on the frame. Which is as "numbers matching" as Fords get. And which numbers so many Fordtards refer to as a "VIN" even though it has no relevance to the vehicle identification whatsoever. Of course inline 6 Fords were/are relatively "rare" because by the time Ford offered a V8 "alternative" that could "compete" with the other companies still stuck in Flathead Land "post-war" it was only to "slow the bleeding" and only "Uncle Sam" and other government agencies and people stuck with Ford V8s were "loyal" Ford customers. And many were scrapped in the "hot rod era" because they were "only" 6-bangers. And they were not a "bargain" compared to a V8. But they are still out there and being Chrysler 230-cube flathead 6 "clones" they're about as hard to BREAK if they weren't/aren't completely abused and neglected as flathead V8s are to "FIX" if they have been anything BUT pampered and driven like an antiques from NEW.
I worked at Finning the worlds largest Caterpillar dealer. Years and years ago a fellow by the name of Axl would replace sections of engine blocks that had thrown a rod or whatever and put a hole in the block. He had an inventory of old blocks to choose from and he would cut out the damaged area and replace with undamaged area from his block inventory. These repairs often included oil galleries. He stitched them together with the tapered plugs, ground them flat and then stippled the repaired area. When finished and painted you could not see the repair. He was truly a master of his craft.
When I first saw the teardown video of this engine, my first thought was actually... Why not cut that part of the block out and just replace it? Good to know I'm just crazy, not stupid.
Way back in apprenticeship training, we were taght to drill and tap pipe threads in the cracked block and stitch wit iron plugs. Seems like it would work better having the plugs the same material as the block, eliminating or reducing the chance of failure due to different thermal expanion.
Please, Please, Let us all know how this engine runs when it is finally complete. I was shocked, amazed and incredibly interested in your repair using those tapped in studs. Simply amazing craftsmanship.
In 1993 , Working at So Cal Edison as a power plant operator @ Long Beach Gen Sta.. we had a 1932 70mw GE steam turbine develop a vacuum leak on the cast iron exhaust hood.. GE sent a Retired GE Metal Smith on contract to repair the 2.5ft crack by metal stitching technique.. it hasn't cracked any further and is still in use today as it is rhe oldest still in use GE turbine in the world.. Its sister unit is at the bottom of the black sea from being sunk by german u boat.. it was part of the Lend/Lease act for WW2... That Power plant has be in multible movies and tv series.. its most famous movie was "Its a Mad Mad Mad World" at the end with the chase scene over the floating bridge, the Hay Day of the Generation Station in Long Beach Ca with all 3 plants on site generating power, Plant 1, Plant 2, Plant 3...
This was a different type of welding, but my grandpa Oscar's old cross-stitch welds are still holding strong seen it a few months ago while doing some x-ray inspections on other stuff. I’m based in Corona, and while my main job is product design, I’ve got nearly 24 years of experience in welding, mostly on old repairs. Welding runs in my family-my dad worked for the Long Beach Water Department, my grandpa kept oil rigs running, and my great-grandpa maintained old steam engines before serving in WWII. Though it’s not my day job, I’m teaching my kids this rare skill, especially in repairing dirty cast iron and porous metals. Even with a few cases a year, welding can pay more than my main job, but it's about preserving a dying art.
Why this couldn‘t be welded was my primary question. Only did a welding course once and am not a professional of course, but interested in it since a kid - and have seen stuff welded that was said couldn‘t be (like cast aluminum). Hence my idea of why this one should not be possible to be welded, instead of being stitched. Personally I find those screws awkward, given physical expansion on hot/cold cycles. But granted, they already surpassed my expectations.
@@pan6593that block is cast iron and the metal gets brittle if you do a conventional weld on it. It must be done by heating the area to be welded first and then a special rod used to do the weld. Surface must also stay at the right temp while doing the repair. Metal stitching uses steel pins. Those expand at a slower rate than the cast iron. The cast iron will exert enough pressure against the pins to keep it sealed without the pins expanding too much causing more cracks. And by pinning it, you don't make the cast iron anymore brittle than it is naturally.
As a 30 year mechanic, we did this on heavy duty blocks and heads. Your repair looks good and much less stress than on heavy duty engines, as long as it does not get overheated again.
I"m 76 years old and I have done some the crazyist stuff imaginable because I never had the money to do it right. Necessity is the mother of invention as they say. What you are doing is well thought out, working with what is available. It should work fine. Remember, this engine will not be used like a new car. It probably will not see 500 miles in a year and not hard miles. I think it has good odds. Also, I give away a lot of my time these days just to see if I can do it.
Well sir, when you "just to see if I can do it", time doesn't mean a thing now does it. It's the challenge to think outside the box and say "yes I did it".
Cleaning guy here. I do the same, give away time on jobs that I think might be fun. The kid gets upset with me and says I don't charge enough for what I do. I consider myself at the very least semi-retired. It is fun to try some of the things I always wanted to do but never could because there were too many bills to pay.
@@JAMSIONLINE CG, (though I don't think you deserve that title), that's wonderful that you do that because your experiment might just be the solution to someone else's problem. I really appreciate your skills and knowledge, very fun to watch!
@@JAMSIONLINE I'm right there with ya. I'm 69 and semi-retired and do the same thing, and yes, it is fun to try some of the things I always wanted to do but never could because there were too many bills to pay... 🤓
I’ve done a lot of crack repairs with lock and stitch, I always install every other plug then put an intersecting plug in between. I believe that is what lock and stitch recommends.
@@iknowyourebrokeauto468 the crack is also very close to water which would contaminate the weld, you’d probably just make everything worse. In my experience if the part drops below 650f during welding the crack will just spread or a new one would appear
I enjoy watching you guys piece stuff back together. My grandparents were depression-era, and I grew up in a blue-collar neighborhood. People used to fix things with the skills and materials they had. RU-vid didn't exist. As a kid I built a minibike engine that had been through auto shop 1 students. The block had holes drilled in it and someone beat the power output side of the briggs rototiller engine with a hammer. I drilled and tapped the holes and repaired the hammer damage with jb weld, paying close attention to surface prep. I got that 5 hp briggs running and running well. I enjoy watching you guys do these repairs because it scratches that small-town, neighborhood inginuity itch. The days of repairing things are disappearing along with the public sentiment that sees that as a reliable necessity. It would seem the world is addicted to planned obsolescence. So I enjoy seeing you guys go at it. I think the world needs more of this---probably why RU-vid is so popular. There is a need and a desire to refit and repair. Thanks for sharing your shop with the RU-vid world!!!
Not a mechanic myself but very proud of you for stepping out of your comfort level and trying something different to try to save a rare piece of history. Good work gentleman.
Dad seems to have the world by the tail here. Farming a bit (most likely paid for), continuing to work with his son doing what they both love, and right at home! Without a doubt, Dad has earned the right to be where he is, at this point in his life.
There's a company called Lock-N-Stitch who several years ago put a vid out about a HUGE cast iron valve housing repair they did. That was the first time I'd seen that type of repair done and it was pretty interesting. The ONLY thing I may suggest (based on what I learned from their video) would be to heat the block you're working on and keep it hot while doing the repair, (300+ degrees if possible, yeah I know it would suck doing the work at that temp) and then when the work cooled, it would ensure you were compressing your repair studs as tight as possible, plus if it was hotter than what that engine would ever normally get to, then an "expansion - leak- while-running" leak wouldn't be an issue. Very nice repair for sure!!!! It's amazing what the Cleaning Guy can accomplish when the Boss isn't around.... Thanks for the vid guys!!!!
Jay Leno used Lock N Stitch and swears by them. He had a block for something that there is no replacements . The block had a lot of cracks and they stitched it up to perfection . I think he has had a few engines done. I remember him showing either a demo piece or the finished part without paint. He didn't show the process at Lock N Stitch that I recall. He should do a show on it from L N S
I am a retired 76-year-old tool and die maker, and I really enjoyed this flat head crack repair. I try to repair almost everything before I throw it away. I enjoy repairing anything that other people have been told that it can't be fixed. Keep up the Great videos.
My wife and I were just talking as we watched this episode. This channel and many like it are absolutely invaluable to young people trying to figure out what they want to do in life. If they are thinking about becoming a machinist (or anything else), they can watch these videos and see what it is really like, and decide if this type of work is right for them. I am about the same age as the cleaning guy. When I was in high school, the guidance counselor would have us fill out some hopelessly outdated survey and based on our responses, recommend a few career paths. We had no idea what that meant or what the jobs were like. It was only after you signed up for college, trade school or if really lucky, landed an entry level job that you got to see what you got yourself into. You guys are providing a service that goes so far beyond the work you are doing for your customers.
You did a great job. As a 50yr machinist it's great to see that just about anything can be repaired. It doesn't hurt to try. That prepped block worth a minimum $1500. Empty. Fix all of the old ones! They don't make 'em anymore!
My Grandfather owned a Machine shop from the 1920's till the 50's in Chicago. "Guaranteed Gear service", I was too young to appreciate the skill of that profession. I started working on cars when I was 15 . At the age of 20 I found myself spending most of my paycheck at "Performance Automotive",They built me a brand new 427, open chamber ZL1 heads, ported , polished, cc'd ect. That was 1972. I still have it. Watching what you do justifies every penny I spent. You both are miracle workers.
Exactly right! This type of work is a dying art, nobody wants to do it anymore because it is a gamble if it is going to last, this repair and saving the 327 sbc are the best!
Hi guys from the UK, I've been a mechanical engineer for 50 years. Most of them in the rebuild industry. Everything I've watched you two do to this engine is the right way to approach this kind of damage. Admittedly, I've never worked on a flathead, but have repaired many a V8 Ford, Jaguar, and Rover SD over the years. Many of which had similar issues. With each one we faced different challenges. Some were successful, others not. But if you dont try to a repair then they all end up in the scrap pile. Great work great show guys. Ex British army REME.
I had no idea pinning a cracked block like that was even a thing. Respect just for the amount of work you put in in the attempt. Can't wait to find out if it worked.
Everything you have done looked fine considering the position and material density or lack of it I have been precision machining for forty years and your workmanship is second to none! I am 62 and never stop learning. I appreciate how you don't edit out your issues and things not panning out, he who hasn't made a mistake has made nothing . Iam so pleased you attempted the repair I remember in NZ in the sixties flatheads were every where now you rarely see them. I hope we here down the line how old mate fairs with the engine ? my moneys on it will be just fine. Look forward to seeing more great posts wishing you well with this one especially
I think the repair is actually excellent. If you take into account where the water jacket is.. which you did.. the flanged sleeve.. the plugs.. the sealant.. the valve seat. All of it, to me, seems like a redundancy of sealing measures that all appear to be working together to make a very successful outcome. The plugs and sealer stopped the leak until machining and it was still probably 95% sealed. The vacuum pulling sealer in and then pressing in a seat with sealer would just about have to have sealed it off, especially at the low cooling system pressures those old engines operate at. Excellent work!!!
In 2006, I had the machine work done on my engine by an 'old codger' old-school rural machinist. He was somewhere in his late 80s, and still working. He came from a generation that had to figure out how to do things that nobody had thought of before, and whatever parts were needed often required to be made from scratch. I was also forewarned that 'his customers' - meaning the local farmers - came first. If they needed something fixed, the old man would drop everything to get the farmer's machinery widgets working and back in the field ASAP because of the short plowing, planting, or whatever 'season' it may be. My engine could wait! I was in awe at the skills that he had learned over 60+ years of being a machinist! He's gone now, and I can only hope that there are young people still learning those valuable tradesman skills!
Worked in a speed shop. Never done this type of repair on a flathead. Have done that stitch procedure to save an ultra rare numbers matching head. It worked and held up for several years. It may still be holding up. The customer moved to the western side of the country. Every thing I saw here was done with judicious care and should make for a happy customer. Have been enjoying watching your channel. I would not even think twice about you doing machine work for me or family.
GM technician since 1974 and still working , Certified Master auto technician General Motors training and ASE certified . I did some machine work and I say that was an excellent repair ! I really like to see you put that engine together and see it running . Thanks !
Im really enjoying seeing you seize the opportunity that your channel is providing you to fix all these things nobody else would be able to attempt and the fact that you're turning the direction of your channel on more of a somewhat regular basis is about the best thing I get to watch on RU-vid. These old engines would be melted down and you're not letting them go to waste
Just an old gearhead who still loves the old gm inline motors. Have repaired head cracks on #1 between the valves caused by "popper" thermostats in cold weather. Did with a #6 torch tip and fine brazing wire. Some cracks ran (many) but those that didn't are still running today, one in my 49 chevy 2door post. Only tried the trick on my own stuff, so nobody hurt but me. Had no other way, had not heard of pinning/stiching. Would be something I'd try though. Am 75 & still building power makers. Next will be a 350 for my Dad's old 1/2 ton, with 3 on the tree. Great stuff, guys!
The 'metal stitching' technique was invented in the 1930s to repair cracked or broken cast iron such as steam engines, commercial boilers, etc - so it's been around for a long time. Needless to say, finding persons with the requisite skill is becoming increasingly difficult - so 'touche' to JAMSI for giving the crack repair a red hot go.
Fortunately my neighbor was restoring a 1940 Ford Opera Coupe with a flathead V-8. He had the correct tool to compress the spring. Problem was the assemblys were very stuck. However, we were successful in finally removing them.
I love watching this channel. Pulling the vacuum and adding some anaerobic sealant trying to pull it in was a great idea. I have very little experience with this type of work however, I can’t find fault with sound critical thinking. I hope your customer wants to finish the project and at least find out how it went. 🤓
My dad had cracked a six cylinder 250 Chevy six cylinder motor due to running straight water in the cooling system. Back in 1974, you could get by in the somer time like that if you were broke and couldn't afford Prestone. When it got cold and froze, the water inside the motor froze and cracked the cylinders. He had a mechanic friend that tore it apart and scratched the cracks out wider. He then put a product in those cracks he called LIQUID STEEL. He sanded and honed the cylinders and valve holes out after leaving each cylinder under a heat lamp for 24 to 48 hours. My dads mechanic then put things back together, crossing his fingers and a preyer. God answered his prayers. My dad drove that truck another 60,000 miles with no engine problems at all. I was in 8th grade then. When my older sister started driving, it was around town and out to where our horses were kept to feed and ride them. Then my sauftmore year i started driving it around. We never had a problem with it. I joined Autoshop in high school for my last three years. My dad finally sold it and bought a truck with a V-8 because my dad was a team roaper and needed a bigger truck to pull a horse trailer and a hay trailer around. The people who bought that old truck never got rid of it. After i graduated from high school, we moved out of the little high desert town of bagdad. My dad never ran another vehicle without some form of coolant again.
This brought back some old memories. When I was a teenager in the late 50's and living on a farm, both my Dad and I had a reputation for being able to fix things. Based on that, a friend of a friend asked me to do a valve job on his 53 Mercury. After pulling the heads, I found a crack just like this one only probably a bit worse. Neither my Dad, the local mechanic nor I had the courage to try and fix it. The valve job turned into an engine swap. So I took great pleasure in watching you repair this one.
Jim: We are all different, and I would not (and could not) change the way I raised my son. If I had done things differently I do not think my boy would the man he is, and of whom I am so proud. But, I am selfishly envious of the relationship you have with yours. I hope you know how blessed you are ( I think you do). Love your vids and keep up the good work.
Hey just wanted to say I love these videos especially this one on the old MERC flathead 8. It is so great seeing these methods to fix the crack and install the new sleeve and seat. I think any customer would be proud to have you two work on their stuff. Keep up the GREAT work and please know that WE ALL really enjoy these vids!!! 🙂
To get your soapy water solution onto the surface being checked without bubbles, we use a small squeeze bottle with a long flexible plastic tube dangling into the soap solution. It finally “disappeared” so I just used a small catsup squeeze bottle with a small opening in the tip. Works pretty good. I think the bottle with flex tube was for checking natural gas connections. May be available in the plumbing section of Home Depot or such. You do a great job with old iron! Years ago I used a machine shop I could trust like your customers trust you today.You are few and far between. I am a long-retired mechanical engineer (engine design for the Big Three - the one that starts with “F”) and I still enjoy following engine work. Your channel and Steve Morris’ channel are my favorites.
When I was 18, did a refresh/rebuild on my 2.5 litre inline 6 from my Triumph TR6.... and there was a giant crack/burn between an intake and exhaust valve in the head (No hardened seats in that thing)... and because I simply didn't know any better... I stitched it with a MIG welder, and ground it back to the correct shape with a dremel and lapped the valves in really well... touch wood, I never had the slightest issue with that engine, so sometimes I guess it's best just to not know what you're not supposed to do.
I’m at 73-year-old retired transmission shop owner I go way back. My uncle and my father used to work on flatheads a lot. I don’t know much about the flatheads other than they had problems with them overheating. I would like to just thank you for what I’m learning from your show. Thank you both.
I have done similar repairs with screw in pegs but found they generally failed in service after repeated heat cycles. These days I would grind out the crack and weld it with TIG and silicon bronze then do a sleeve and an inset. My guess is that you might have a 50/50 chance of long term success if as you mentioned the motor does not get overheated. On balance I think the repair you did was as well done as possible and has a good enough chance of success to justify having done it. I would have given a higher chance of long term success if the material between the port and cylinder had been solid rather than having the water jack intersect it. I particularly enjoy watching you deal with problems like this.
I know yall are a father and son but dad reminds me so much of my grandpa. God i miss that man, i heard stories from him, my dad and uncles on how he fixed things that no one could. He truly was a master st mechanical and machining. He passed when i was 15 and i did my best to soak up every ounce of knowledge i could. He forgot more than i would ever know. Thank yall for these videos!
The reality in my mind is that fewer and fewer decent blocks will exist as the years roll on. I think any attempt to preserve the heart of a vintage vehicle is worth it. Who knows, 20 years from now they may be able to do a flawless repair with new tech. However, if you scrap an engine, it doesn’t come back. I got a 60s Ford style side that sat for 30ish years and I remember the machinist looking at just the head of the 300 saying, “Oh man we’re in for one.” It was a hefty repair time, after a bent pushrod mucked cylinder 5 up pretty good, but once I got it back in my rig, it’s purred wonderfully for the last 2500 miles. I know that isn’t a ton, but it’s only a collector vehicle that gets to strut its stuff every other month or so. The best part is it’s the same heart it left that factory with. I had the option to throw in a $400 core, but I figured any effort to repair what she came with was worth it.
This video is fascinating. I have heard for years that cracks like this cannot be repaired, yet you have done it. I have had a 1940 Ford for almost 50 years. The engine that was in it when I got it was tired and there was water getting into the oil. The second engine was installed in 1978 and lasted until 2002 or so (suspected stuck valve). The current motor has about 20K miles on it and is in good shape, but every time I go into the garage a part of me wants to try to repair or at least assess those two other engines to see if they can be repaired. You have given me hope. I do hope that the engine in this video is re-assembled and tested. Thank you for posting a GREAT video!
This should be interesting. My Grandfather had a 1951 suicide 4 door he bought new. He was 95 when he passed and the car had 19k original miles on the odometer. As you can imagine it was a Sunday go to church and cemetery. Found out after we finally pulled it out of the garage it wouldn't start. What a bear it was to get those valve assemblies out.
@jamsionline about 25 years ago I was at a machine shop trying to save a Packard Straight 8. I think I installed about 600 repair plugs in total, just like the ones you're showing here. It was cracked through the seats like this Mercury, across the deck, inside outside, everywhere. But we couldn't locate a better block, so we pressed on. We also did all 16 seats, 8 sleeves, and used a K-Line sealer on the internal water jacket when we were done. It's still running to this day and has logged TONS of miles including a cross country tour that was over 8,500 miles by itself. Your practices are sound. The only thing we did different way back then, was we peened every plug after we installed it and before we installed the next one. Cheers.
I've used those pins many times on repairs and always had excellent success. One time was the head of a 8n tractor with 8-9" crack and still runs today 20 years later. Numerous cracked blocks from froze water and i think you guys did a awesome job!! Cleaning guys a bad mo fo!!
I'm a retired machinist that has never machined an engine block but everything you have done in this repair makes perfect sense. The only thing I could see compromising the repair is the heat factor once it's running and things expand. As you indicated a cooling system sealer may go a long way to ensure some added protection. FYI, I did find the valve seat insert a little tighter than I would have expected as it brought back horror story memories of a mechanical seal replacement on a water ring vacuum pump I once repaired. Good work guys!
I’m not a machinist. Always found it super super interesting though. I really do appreciate your guys approach to repairs. From experimenting, giving your customers options, to being inquisitive on if something will work and not just assuming you know everything. It’s refreshing to see that in a world full of know-at-all mechanics I deal with all the time. They know it all yet can’t seem to fix a damn thing. It’s exhausting.
Awesome repair guys. Unfortunately in the automotive industry today everything is thrown away and replaced. Real technicians appreciate the effort that you put in. Keep up the good work watching from Victoria Australia
With my dad back in the 60's to mid 80's we did Merc Flathead s, Lincoln V12 flatties and one or two early 50's ford sixes. Coolant system was 2 to 4 psi max you repair will last. If you want belt and suspenders use Irontite CRS-16 Ceramic Seal or Moroso Part # 35500 Ceramic seal , We used it on the Lincoln V12s with zero issues and doing the ceramic seal one the run in stand will cause no issues with the radiator ir header core.
I'm an A & P and used to rebuild 4 cyl engines but never machined anything myself. I love watching your videos and the constant banter with each other. In hind sight I would use the anerobic sealer on the threaded plugs to aid in sealing any micro leaks & to essentially glue them in. Another great video.
I used to be a mechanic, and I am truly amazed at the quality of the work you guys do. This job in particular looks like such a challenge. Good luck from Australia.
You did everything right Jim, old school pinning, did that plenty of times when I was a fitter & turner back in the 80s. Very similar to what we used to call scotch locks. Thanks for the video boys
Thoroughly enjoyed your video , going to show it to a 92 y/o in our area who is well versed in these engines as well as model T engines and I’m sure he will be delighted to see how you all have done but also get his feedback! Thanks for a great channel!
Hey Guys , I started building small gas engines at the age of 8 years old and moved on automotive engines as I got older . By the time I was in my mid teens I built my own engines for my cars and pickups ! I am now 60 years old and watching how you have repaired this engine , and from what I can see you have done everything to a high level of professionalism ! The repairs you have done , I would be surprised if they fail ! Only time will tell ! New technology is something that I fear at times , I have learned that most of these new ways of repairing things are not wrong , they are just different from the way we were trained to do them ! Yes it could have been welded and then sleeved , but that did not always work either ! So stop worrying about if it is wrong or right ! Hey if this works like it looks like it will , all of us Gearheads will have one more tool for our mental tool box !😊 Keep up the great work!!!
I think you did the best possible repair. It's very difficult to find a crack free flathead block. You did an awesome job. Tell your customer to run a new core radiator and run it with the radiator cap to the pressure release position.
I've been a Machinist for 45yrs, but my background is mostly Industrial Equipment repairs for Refineries and Chemical Plants. Repairing cast iron is always hit or miss, we had luck and times with welding or brazing and metal stitching worked well at times too. Although I'm not sure how accurate it is, the Company that began the use of metal stitching (Metallock) was from my area. Great work on the repair of the block and I very much enjoy watching your videos.
No telling how many more years we can watch a skilled family of Machinists tackle stuff like this let alone a flathead ford engine. Nothing but enjoyable and informative to watch.
I am truly amazed at your abilities. In the 40 and 50s we had enough flatheads that we just went and got another one. I'm sure that if you get it all together it will work without incident. I also know it will have that great flathead sound. Bless you both for your commitment to such a product and letting us follow along on your progress.
I am very proud of you as a shop, that actually repairs parts and doesn't just scrap them. Anyone can work with "good" material,,, It takes craftsmanship and skill to "work with what you have got." That makes your shop better, unique, and honestly some place I would send my work to.
I am not an expert, and i am not a hater. I learned something from your videos, and i enjoyed watching them. Thank you for posting. I am looking forward to watching more.
Guys, I have never done a similar repair to this. I am familiar with stitching. I saw a large lathe that got dropped and the bed broke right off. They fixed it with stitching. But I have done some repairs that also, (THERE WAS NO OTHER WAY). I'd say you have about a 70% chance that it will last. Heat cycles are the problem. Thin cast iron is always a wreck waiting to happen. I noticed some little chunks breaking out while you were drilling. That makes me nervous. I think your logic is sound. Your work was superb. The anerobic sealant did the job. It's just all of those pesky heat/cool cycles that make me nervous. I wish you good fortunes on this project.
Remember using lock n stitch back in the early 90's. Seems like we always had pretty good luck using them and your repair looks good to me. I recall using a jig to help with spacing/overlap of the screws, think it helped with getting started on your first screw as well. Always had a love hate relationship with the pressure tester! Thanks for videos, keep up the good work!
I’m no machinist, just an old backyard mechanic in my younger years. Great job as far as I can see. Learning anything costs something, no matter where or what you do. Thanks for the chance to see you both work on this engine repair 👍😎 Fascinating! 😎👍
I have absolutely nothing constructive to contribute to this specific project BUT I really enjoy watching skilled professionals work and it doesn't matter what profession. The video is fascinating as are the constructive comments from others. Love your channel.
I have repaired over 100 of those engine blocks that was a very common problem. It was caused by two things. Casting core shift and over heating the cooling system . The only thing that I was taught is plug all the way through the into the water jacket so that the plug can put pressure on the area so it does not open up when the block heats up. Of corse we know have to stop the crack with the first pin inserted past the end of the crack. The rest is perfect and installing the sleeve with on size bore and sleeve ( because the factory steel sleeves were installed that way). Those sleeves were bored and honed to piston size and could be bough as a set piston and sleeve together. Smart move to use a flange sleeve so the gasket and head will hold in should it try to move. Also I have a trick to help with upper end oil control. Since you are upgrading the valve train with late model keeper type valves you can cut the spring end of the solid guide for a .500 Id 11/32 nylon valve seal that way no oil can be sucked up the valve stem. That is providing the inner spring diameter will allow the seal to fit. Also adjustable lifters are a god send if this engine will be driver a lot. My suggestion is that you grind the end of the adjuster bolt flat you can use the butt grinder on your valve machine. I have several up dates to make the old ford model “A” engines Highway compatible over 60 mph and live.
BIG fan here in Arizona. Cant express how much I like watching the cleaning guy work. Flathead work looks great considering what you are working with. Loved the antique MM tractor work and tour of the neighbors barn by the way. Hope you have good yields from the corn this year. Keep it coming!
This is great work. The decades of experience and acquired skill shine through. I hope we get to see you fully reassemble this and run her on the stand. 🙏
Love your skills. I love what you do to save these beautiful old machines. I'm not a machinist or fitter. I am an Engineer who spent a career in sales and management. I always learn something watching your work. The foundation of engineering is what you do. Thank you for sharing. 😊
Good episode. Over 3/4 of a century old now and mostly built boat engines, on and off since I was 16. Raw water cooled flatheads like early Crusaders, etc. get thin from salt water corrosion. They crack easy from interference fits when doing valve seat inserts. Long ago we started using JB Weld and 0.001 fits to set valve seats in old flatheads. Sometimes we'd make it barely a press fit and rough up both sides by shot blasting the faces. JB Weld it in. Good to 500*F and those engines never get that hot. Ocean water is not allowed over 160*F (thermostat) or it'll salt the block. Fresh water, never over 180*F. Yeah you give up some power at lower temps, but any boat running a flathead is not going for power ... Never had one fail yet 😅
Sir I’m a welder by trade do quite a bit of cast welds. Even welded a patch in a block that had the rod go through it. You did the right thing. I would not have attempted any other type of repair is the materials too thin. I would have sent the customer to a machine shop like yours to stich it up.
A repair I will never forget is one I didn't believe would work . I worked at a shop that had an old flathead forklift. The head gasket failed and a path was burned in area between the cylinders. The mechanic filled the gap with JB weld . Bolted a new head gasket and the head before it set. I was convinced it wouldn't run a week. When I left the job the engine still ran perfectly and had 4000 more hours on it.
Wow guys this video was FASCINATING! I would never have thought of fixing a crack this way - bloody ingenious! Of course, I'm not a machinist or mechanic though! I make little wires into tiny wires! I love how the next repair bolt is screwed in to penetrate & tap into the previous one, & you use the 'anaerobic sealer'on each one, with each snap-off bolt. Then die grinding the protruding bits off like they were almost never there - so clever Jim! All the calculations to get the exact amount of interference/compression fit down to all those decimal places? Holy crap youse have to have great equipment, knowledge, machinery & tools to do that! I finally worked out why youse had all those bolts there holding that laser cut plate onto the block. It wasn't a 'torque plate' that I've seen used before - another ingenious idea! - It was a 'sealer plate' as Jim said at the end. Riiight! - to seal the water jacket so youse could do the pressure test ay! - And the vacuum test! Very clever also to set up a vacuum lastly, to kinda suck the anaerobic sealer into the very last minute leak that remained! You guys are like scientists! That was so good to see NO bubbles at the end! Youse dun it! Yeehah! Now, as for the longevity & reliability of this repair, let's hope the owner tries real hard to never let this donk overheat, for a start! Ensuring that, let's also hope the sealer is temperature stable, which I guess it's been designed to be so. The last thing I thought of was the pressure of the coolant that's gonna be on the repair. I thought I saw somewhere that radiator caps are calibrated to about 9 to 12 psi. Then I read in previous comments that the radiator caps in these flat head engines are calibrated to only 4 psi. You tested it at 35 psi, so guys, I humbly reckon that youse have absolutely nailed this! - Given the previous 'restrictions' I mentioned. I had such fun & learned so much watching this! I can't wait for the next instalment on this engine - if there's gonna be one! - Please? And of course, as always, I'd love to see this engine installed & running in the vehicle! - A jeep was it? - I forget what you said. THANK YOU for this gift!
I found your process to be fascinating. I have heard from some old timers about fixing a crack like this. They seemed to believe it was a good way to go. They had good luck with it and they didn't have the new machinery that we have today. I hope all your work made for a good repair. I think it will work and hold up. I might add some Bars Leak to the cooling system when the engine is ready to run again. Great video.
Repair looks excellent to me and a many flathead lovers and hot rods that still use the flat head i would say continue building it i am sure you would have no problem finding a buyer who trusts your work you had 30 pounds of pressure most it will see is any where from 12 to 20 at tops damn good job
That is quite the repair! I have nothing to add to what you two already said during the repair. It is great that you put such effort into saving a block. I would have confidence it running it. I enjoy watching you two work and practice a trade and craftsmanship that is rare these days.
As far as using a sealer. K and W block sealer in a neon green bottle works really well sealing cooling systems. I seen it work on RU-vid for someone and recommended it to a friend with a blown head gasket and it sealed it up. I recently did a set of heads on my mustang 5.0. I got a set of mls head gaskets to help raise the compression and knew they could be an issue sealing up to the bottom of the block so took some of that same stuff he used, from the same bottle he bought probably 6-7 years ago, and ran from the first day and have no water leak issues. You can see where it has seeped out at the bottom of the block when you raise the car up and the stuff has formed and crystallized at the bottom of the block.
What you did is the right way to stitch a block, and I think what you did will work. We used to put casting repair plugs in cracks between the seats on Detroid Diesel heads. However, we used Irontite casting repair plugs and they were tapered, like pipe plugs. I don't know it Irontite still exists and making casting repair plugs though. I would trust Irontite plugs with my life on a repair like that. As I said when you found the crack in that block the best way to have repaired that crack was to cast iron weld it, which you of course have no experience with either! That block could probably still be welded although a new sleve would need to be installed in that cylinder!
Fun fact about the flathead Ford v8 is that it was produced all the way to 1997 in France and used in fleet vehicles.😉👍. I read about it in an old hot rod magazine several years ago.
So pro, so much wisdom, but still willing to learn and try new things. I'm not at all a machinist or engine builder. But, professionalism recognizes and respects other professionals. And even better, the relationship the two of you have it what I hope to have with my children when I'm older. Much love from central Vermont to you.
Seeing what’s going on in the automotive trades these days a fantastic that you are carrying the torch in this trade. As more and more people decide they don’t want to do this type of work it makes you and your dad more and more valuable.
I know you said you dont want to hear from the peanut gallery, but as a mechanic for many years, ive had to figure out how to repair many different leaks. The way this repair was done is new to me, although it may be an older way to do a repair for something like this, i was a little worried about the tapered head spreading the crack more. After seeing this being executed, i feel that it is a very good and solid repair. Thank you guys for the videos and the different ways jobs can be executed to be completed. Great job!
This was a super useful video for me, thank you! I own an engine machine shop & have always been hesitant to try this type of stitch repair. (We typically weld cast iron cracks with a special filler wire & use a programmable oven to control the pre heat & cooldown. But it doesn’t always work & is very slow.) Watching you learn about this process was invaluable as I now feel confident enough to try it myself if the need arises. Thank you for taking the time to make such a useful video.
