4:14 You are seeing *close to 1/8"* on one end of the tie rod. It's actually close to 1/4" because both tie rod ends are moving out as you turn the rod. 1/4 turn, per side, should give you about 1/4" difference.
For all the people mentioning only adjusting one side that will throw your steering wheel off. (Past Semi truck, trailer & auto alignment. I'm not an ATV mechanic but same still applies.)
Informative and brief video, thank you! Just got me an SP450 quad with wheels angling way inwards, and when riding it feels like the slightest wrong movement of the steering will send me flying sideways
How do you know your initial bad toe adjustment wasn’t all in one wheel? That is why it’s suggested that the toe is set from square of the rear wheels by pulling strings or long straight edge from the rear to extend past the front wheels. Measure from the strings or straight edge to set the toe and then you will know your front end is square from the rear and slightly toed in. It’s a little harder to do it that way but at least it will be correct. Some times the front tires will interfere and you have to get creative. I’m lucky enough to have extra rims so I just remove the front tires install two bare rims making toe adjustment measurements easy and accurate. Just something to think about!
You need to make sure your wheels are aligned prior to toe adjustment, toe is the last item. You are doing an align and toe together which is fine. Just a little more work if you are not needing an alignment. Once your alignment is set, it usually stays that way. My reference here was toe only. Thanks for the comment though, it all helps everyone.
By means of this method you arrange the toe-in and toe-out but you do not solve the case where one front wheel is more open or more closed with respect to the other front wheel. am I wrong?
Yes, this keeps them from getting that way. If one is off from the other, then you need run a straight edge from the rear wheel to the front and make sure they are parallel with each other. Be sure your handlebars are straight when you do this. Once the fronts are aligned with the rears, adjust your toe in.
I did all these are more things , But still pulling to left even 2 different shops tried to alignment and check everything but they could not find the problem. also the ATV is brand new 2024 . Not used/
That sucks. Couple things to check is make sure tire pressures are same on both sides, fronts the same, and rears the same, check the hiegth of your rear tires to make sure they are the same, could be a mfg issue with tire. Also, visibly check that your rear axle has your rear tires pointing straight and not cocked to one side, then jack up the back and roll the tires in neutral to make sure they roll smoothly and that the rear carrier bearing is not shot. Just a couple ideas.
@Team2Gils will check the back again tomorrow , for the front, I checked everything. Can be a tire problem which can't do anything about it. Tnx for info.
Great video as usual thx! I want yo ask you where did you fit your ignition key? I just bought precision shock & vibe stabilizer and I think the stock plastic holder will not fit anymore. Another question is where did you get the "shields" for the precision steering stem stabilizer? Thank you very much!
Rock Speed has a nice ignition holder. I started to make one but gave up and just bought it. Works great with the Shock and Vibe. I have yet to test mine. Today's race was cancelled due to some nasty weather and none of the parks are open. I am looking forward to seeing how it works. As for the steering stabilizer area "mud Guards", I made those. I got a big blue plastic sheet from Speedway Motors and made those as well a some under the front fenders that protect all the wiring. They work great and are needed if you ride in the mud.
Question...i want to get +2 alba a arms but confused about what to do with the front shocks.i have a standard 700 with pogo sticks...yfz450 shocks, raptor 700r adjustable shocks or is it ok to keep my standard pogo sticks? Do you have any insights on this question?
You can use your existing shocks, you want to make sure the a arm are for standard shocks. Upgrading your shocks is a huge benefit but expensive. Going to +2 arms is nice as you can also go with the long travel option if available. This gives you really good suspension but again, expensive. Best advice is to plan ahead on what you're going to do so you don't waste money. You can definitely go with +2 and stock shocks, then upgrade shocks at a later date if you wish. You don't want to get custom shocks then upgrade your arms or you will have to have the shocks re valved again. Custom valved shocks are the best upgrade but should be the final suspension upgrade.
What psi are you running? And whats your thoughts on balancing tires? I have the gbc xc master tires 21x7x10 front 20x11x9 rear on oem wheels for the time being. I was told that I should have them balanced but never really heard of it on ATV tire's..
Headlight protectors came from Amazon. They had several to choose from. They are petty thick and the headlights are still supposed to be fairly bright at night but never tried that. I just wanted something to protect the lens and these looked cool.
For toe, both sides have to be adjusted equally or it will throw your alignment off. If you suspect your alignment is off, I have a video on that out there as well.
measuring it with the tape measure the way you doing it wont give you an accurate measurement. You should be measuring using the "outside of the board". Thus making sure that the little metal clip on the tape measure is fully extended...Those clips actually move about 1/8 inch sometimes depends what you are measuring and if you are measuring from the outside or the inside of the boards.
Good tip Darryl. However it is all about consistency so whether you put the clip on the outside and stretch it, or on the inside and smash it, be sure take all measurements the same.
The clips are designed to move. They don't move "about" 1/8 of an inch. They move exactly the width of the clip itself, on a decent tape measure anyway. It's so that it makes the same measurement if you push it up against a surface or pull it from an edge. Here's a 30 second short explaining why those little clips move. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ol3FLTIgFMw.html
Get your handlebars straight fastened them that way. Pick a spot on the inside of your front wheel towards the front, and another on the front frame or a arm. Take measurements on both sides and get them equal. Find another point on the back end of the front wheel and another point on the frame and make sure they are equal to each other. You can double check by taking measurements in different spots and both sides should be equal.
The width should not cause vibration. Jack the front up and spin each one to see if they wobble or are out or round. If good, take wheels off and spin hub and make sure brake rotors are not wobbling. Also, when you spin the wheels, make sure they spin smoothly. After this, make sure your tie rod and ball joints are not bad.
