I just want to say I wish I had this video 2 years ago and also everyone don't be scared to try this! I was in a bit of financial situation at the time so I did this my self and I never worked on engines like this, I've only have done the basic plug and play parts like spark plugs and brakes but I did this job with my younger brother and dam it was a bit tuff but alot of fun learning and I did this all in my apartment complex parking space. But once we completed the job , the smile my brother and I had once then engine was running nice and smooth at the first start up was priceless. Just do it!
Duuuuudes this was sooooo well done. The speaking during the walk through, the editing, the plugs for the products u have , the camera angles and even the filler sound clip during the tightening and loosening sequences were all perfect. I watched this allll the way through! Yaaaaa I'm thinking maybeeeee tha guy with the Audi/VW tat knows what he's doing. My sex Ed class wasn't even this engaging! Excellent
Best, most descriptive video out there I have found. Being in ex Ford master tech working gor myself now, learning other vehicle's small tricks are gold. Thank you my friend. P.s glad to see I am not tge only guy who hates gloves.
Timing chain removal. Tools needed: T30 Torx M10 triple square or M8 triple square 18mm spanner 24mm socket 16mm socket 2x breaker bars Timing chain tool kit Timing chain kit Lower timing cover Long Philips screw driver Pick tool Plastic trim removal tool Clamp removal pliers Gasket maker Gasket scraper Oil for lubing the o-rings and gaskets Brake cleaner Needle nose pliers ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OVPYurTlE6o.html&ab_channel=FCPEuro ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pk7_-qN5WEA.html&ab_channel=SKFVehicleAftermarket --------- Take spark plugs off, and remove upper timing chain cover T30 bolts x5 and dip stick, may need to remove coolant pipe. Put a screw driver on the top of the first cylinder, Crank engine clockwise to match crank pulley arrow to the arrow on the lower timing chain, and the timing chain coloured links to the camshaft gears, the screw driver should pop up, If Top dead centre, all arrows should be pointing to the coloured links on the chain. Unbolt the crank bolt(reverse threaded) 24mm socket, remove pulley and place bolt back in with plastic spacer and tighten. Remove lower timing cover,T30 bolts x15 if tensioner pulls is obstructing, remove it. Pry out the lower timing cover from the sides and top, rather than the bottom, use plastic pry tool, scrape off the old gasket Remove valve piece off the Cambridge using the specialty tool, hold the crankshaft bolt down as this would turn the engine out of TDC, this is clockwise, so tightening is to go left, loosing to go right, and unbolt the Cambridge T30 bolts x6 and M8/M10 triple square bolt, lock the camshaft gears in place using the locking tools. If not locking in, using 18mm spanner to rock it back and forth till it fits. Check the Cambridge oil screen and check if it’s on the engine and remove. Remove the one from the Cambridge if still there. optional: Remove the 2x T30 from the cylinder head, between the upper and lower timing chain covers. If you don’t have that tool, use a pry bar so you don’t need to remove the bolts, these bolts torqued to 8nm Pry the tensioner Remove oil pump guide and chain from the bottom, use a pick tool to lock it in place, and remove the single T30. Remove the tensioner, get pliers and squeeze the clip, and pry the guide and put the clip to the last tooth and insert the retaining clip. Release the pry bar, and unbolt the 2x T30 for the tensioner. Remove the M10 bolt from exhaust camshaft pulley and slide out the guide Remove the other guide which has 2x M10 bolts. Install the camshaft locking tool, lock the camshaft gears in place using the locking tools. If not locking in, using 18mm spanner to rock it back and forth till it fits. Remove guides from the top between the camshaft. Remove the timing chain. Remove the lower timing chain tensioner, crankshaft gear and remaining 3 guides ensuring all the arrows match the coloured links. ------------ Now reverse, Change the crankshaft sprocket, and guides and chain for the balance shafts. Torque to 20nm, when putting the bolt tensioner, user gasket sealant on the black bolt and torque to 85nm Slide the timing chain, look at the 2 black links, and line it up to the camshaft, Slide in the new upper guide Install the timing chain guides - M10 x2 at 20nm , and the timing chain tensioner - T30 x2 and torque to 8nm or 9nm, tensioner guide, M10 at 20nm, while doing this, unscrew the exhaust camshaft locking tool. Remove the timing chain tensioner clip Remove the inlet camshaft locking tool. Check all timing marks. Install oil pump chain and tensioner and torque M10 to 9nm and remove locking pin Add engine oil to the Cambridge value hub/hole and change Oring if you have one, Install Cambridge - if M6 at 8NM + 90degrees, M8 or M10 at 20nm + 90’, camshaft screw at 9nm, install the Cambridge valve, left hand thread at 35nm. Turn the engine twice, clock wise, if it locks up, then its out of time. Check if the timing chain tensioner clip Remove old seal or use another cover of the lower timing cover, go around each hole in sealants and each bent put a line and check if crank pulls is on the TDC which is the flat bit on the top. Install T30 bolts, maybe 15, 8nm + 45 degrees. Go diagonal(criss/cross patter) Remove the bolt and spacer, lubricate the new crank pulley bolt with oil. Torque the crack bolt to 150nm + 90 degrees. Install the upper timing chain cover, replace the gasket and torque bolts to 9nm, install timing hub cover/ cambridge valve cover 9nm Install dipstick and auxiliary belt and tensioner, the belt tensioner has 2 M10 (8nm), 16mm bolt for the pulley, check belt is fully seated.
This is an excellent how-to video showing all the steps required to replace the timing chains along with some great tips and insights from Aaron. I consider my mechanical abilities around a 6 out of 10 but was able to complete the job in my garage. This job can be done by without removing the front carrier, but I would recommend removing it following the instructions in the video if you're doing this for the first time. Removing the carrier gives you full unrestricted access and full line-of-sight to the front of the engine and makes the timing chain replacement easier. I ordered the timing chain, tensioner, chain guides (3), lower timing chain cover (and VW-Audi RTV to form a gasket), upper timing chain cover gasket, crankshaft pulley bolt, as well as the CTA 1023 tool kit and the T40011 locking pins (3) from FCP Euro. Everything was shipped promptly and the parts fit perfectly. The video was the main reason that I purchased all the parts from FCP Euro; I really appreciate suppliers that put the effort in to make DIY projects easier for the weekend mechanic.
Fcp! I did this job yesterday check the timing mark a 😮million Times rotated the eng by hand 100 time after the job was done p0016 p2293 p12a4 car drives perfecty. HELP! Lights are off on first start I can even drive the car and reset computer but when I turn the car back slight hard start and lights come on Pdtc. I clear them and everything goes away I’m stummped!!! Ok ok c C
Thank you so much for this video, I couldn’t have done the timing job without this. Only 2 things this video left out. There is another bolt behind each headlight holding the bumper cover to the car. Maybe it’s specific to the B8/B8.5, but I nearly trashed my bumper trying to pull it off. The second is the balancing tensioner and chain is super easy to switch out, and you might as well do it since you’re right there with it exposed. My balancing chain was also a little stretched
Just finished this today on a 2011 A5 that we bought at auction. It had the cam / crank correlation code and about 150,000 miles so we tackled it with this video as our primary reference. It fired right up and sounded great with no leaks or issues. The test drive was amazing! Smiles all around :) Thank you so much for posting such an informative and thorough video.
well, for 2014-2017 2.0 they updated the tensioner, as you said. There should be noticeably fewer problems with the chain on CPMB - can we say that? Hopefully so?
So my intake balance shaft seized up and pulled out and it wouldn’t turn. So now you’re saying I can’t replace it with a new one and new chain and everything and it won’t run?
I don't even have a Q5 (own a Q3), yet still watched this all the way through😂. I was concerned when the crank bolt and vibration dampener was removed, and the special washer is fitted and crank bolt replaced. My workshop manual has a special tool for this step. You remove the bolt leaving dampener in place, fit a special locking pin, and only then remove dampener. This is to ensure spur gear doesn't unseat from crankshaft. I dunno, was just so casual, and no special tool, but it seems to have worked!! I don't have a chain issue, just some light oil seapage, so may just.silicone exterior of cover seal first to see if that slows things before taking on this beast of a job (Q3 is transverse so need to support engine from above, then remove engine mount and mount bracket) Awesome video. AAA+++ Right Angle Pick Tool FTW 😂😂😂
Before watching this video , Never would I have thought I'd be doing a timing on any vehicle. Wow let alone an Audi. Thank you for this amazing descriptive step by stem DIY educated video. It really isn't rocket science.. Thank god for Google RU-vid our friend.
Excellent video, very helpful. Be more helpful if you showed the measurements from Exhaust Cam marking to Intake Cam marking (124-126mm) and from Center of of top guide to Intake Cam marking (61-64mm) as suggested by Audi. Question, the original chain looks the newer version, why did you replace it ? Same question for the tensioner, looks the newer revision, why replaced ? Thank you.
Please make a video re sealing camshaft cover. Oil is leaking into spark plug but I’m afraid of the cam shafts coming out of proper time, alignment while re sealing. I want to replace timing chain while I’m in there.
Hey FCP. great video that really helped me tackle this job with your kit. Just wanted to let everyone know that the crankbolt for the B8 (and probably B8.5 and B90 has a new 10.9 grade bolt rather then the 8.8 grade used in this video. The new 10.9 grade bolt has a different torquing procedure. The 10.9 requires 100nm then 180 degree turn. The original 8.8 had a 150nm with a 90 degree turn. Check the factory workshop manual.
Wouldn't be better or safer to remove the spool valve whilst the harmonic balance and the lower timing cover is still on. This way, you'll know if the timing moved whilst removing the spool, and it's easier to put it back on time...?
Yes that was intense! I appreciate and applaud you and the team for doing such a video. Sometimes some of us with these cars have to try and do difficult things just to make ends meet. I truly appreciate this video - it gives me the overview of what's possible- helps to decide what to do. 🔥 ❤
@@markhallford3246 Talking from experience? My comment had nothing sarcastic in it. It's a fact. Engine oil, especially used oil, can cause skin cancer. And more frequently it causes dermatitis and other skin conditions. Why risk it?
@@johnnyblue4799 I would hazard a guess that he is pretty aware of that fact, perhaps after being told off by you, he might inform us that he is allergic to latex🙂
I really enjoy seeing ur videos. They are so detailed and makes the job's look easy! Please continue to make these videos. I do have a question..? Do you have DIY videos on the Audi a7..? I can’t seem to find any or is there a link I can follow..?
My cpma balance shafts failed at 130k which really isn't "really high mileage" for the record. Replace them if you you're doing the timing service......
Also the upper timing cover, the circular seal that goes over the intake part of the cam bridge and the o-ring that seals the cam adjuster solenoid (if the cam bridge wasn't replaced)there as well should be replaced
So I have put the whole thing back together and I tried to start it and it sounded like the starter was turning the crankshaft just fine, but there doesn't seem to be any ignition. Before putting the timing cover back on i made sure the crankshaft turned freely, so i aussumed it was in time. I checked the connection to my ignition coils and I know they are in securely. Does this still sound like a timing issue?
I just want to say thank you for the parts, this video, and for giving me the confidence to perform this job. Now I never want to work on this car again 😂 but if I did this I am pretty sure I can do anything else this car will need in the future. Thanks again!
25:30 You mentioned that engine is back to TDC. Wasn't it already at TDC when you started removing components at the beginning of the video? Awesome tutorial, ordered full timing kit (including the lower area) from you guys!
I talked to a shop about changing the chain they didn’t recommend that. If it needs chains it’s time to replace the engine. Is there any truth to this it did seem right. It’s not making noise or running rough I got a fuel pressure to high. I read it’s probably the chain.
Yes it can be; however, I can tell you that in my situation the weeping oil leak was actually the inner o-ring that seals the magnetic adjuster to the cam bridge that was the source of issue. It broke apart like hard plastic upon removal. Best bet to do it right is order a new upper cover (gasket will be pre installed) and a new inner o-ring. Change both of those at the same time to rule out all leak issues.
Unfortunately, your buddy will need to go back in and ensure nothing was left untouched during reassembly. If that does not solve his issue, checking timing again will be nessesary :(.
Excelente Video y muy bien explicado; de lo mejor que he visto en la RED. La pregunta obligada es: ¿Cuál es el Costo de una reparación como esta en USA?. Saludos desde Cholula Puebla, México. Gracias
I’m having random misfires and I’ve done everything except the timing. But I have no codes for timing related issues. All cylinders have compression as well. Just did new injectors and carbon clean on valves. Does the timing make the car have random misfires? It only happens above 4000 RPM. Then the EPC light comes on and the check engine blinks. The code it gives is random misfires.
Well done video. Was considering a certified Audi A4 Allroad with the 2.0L engine. I can't believe Audi cannot make a timing system with chains that won't last at least 150K miles. I've had two Hondas with timing chains. One was going strong at 210K when I sold it and the other I still have has 125K miles and no issues. The allroad I was looking at is very nice but I don't want to worry about timing chain issues in a few years that will be at least $3K to resolve. Maybe I'll look at Lexus instead.
You can see how worn the chain is with a scanner while idling. At 100k miles my chain was only 1/4 worn. Of course it’s had 5k mi oil changes its whole life.
@@tubbycustard8866 If you have the VCDS cable with a laptop you can look up cam phaser position when idling. I don’t remember all the details but that’s how it’s done.
@@tubbycustard8866 My guess based on VCD or possibly a tool like OBD Eleven, he probably read the phase correlation to be at +/-1.25 which makes 1/4 of the max +/-5 limit set by Audi
I am in love with this video; as an automotive teacher and technician, I felt like I learnt all over again. Thank you very much, this helped me out with my A6. I also admire the dedication with the tattoo...
Very nice video! I see you list CAEB, CPMA, CPMB, and CHJA engines. Are CAEB and CPMA heads interchangeable? I have a 2013 Audi Q5 2.0 engine code CPMA with cylinder head part number 06H103064N. CPMA heads are hard to find outside of dealerships. CAEB heads are plentiful, but are a slightly different part number 06H103064L. Are they interchangeable? I would think as long as the head has the exhaust side AVS it would work. Thanks.
AC to the side trick is not working on 2011 A4 Sline Quattro unfortunately. The middle refrigerant pipe is all in the way of removing it safely from the radiator clips.
Update: 2011 Audi A4 Sline avant - There is also an idler pulley that needs removal to get to all the lower timing cover bolts and the T40 torx bolt on mine was seized on. If yours pulley is working fine but the bolt is seized, don’t try and mess with it, just remove Alternator, Steering pump and AC compressor (you can move the power steering and AC to the side) then you can remove the whole accessory belt bracket to gain access to the lower timing cover.
Final Update: Completed the timing chain service (plus balance shaft chain, lower sprocket, all new guides and both tensioners) along with intake decarb, injector clean and new spark plugs and the car runs absolutely perfect. A tedious job but worth it. Do water pump and high pressure fuel pump oil seal/gasket at the same time and you’ll be golden.
OMG DIY! lol, the video was an hour long. If I had all the tools it would take me 3 days. What is the approx cost at a dealer for this and would you trust a mechanic to do this right?
Great video! I have a question, currently doing a chain job on a 2010 volkswagen CC. Vehicle presented P0016 and multiple misfires on all cylinders. While putting the vehicle on TDC, the exhaust and intake cams are not lined up where they should be. Both cams appear to be at roughly 12oclock position. have rotated the crank multiple times to see if maybe after several rotations the vehicle would line the cams up. No luck. Should I just take off the upper chain and guides and realign cams with a wrench manual? I appreciate any suggestions. Cheers!
now do the same work on a FWD VW.... uffff, will be done in twice the time and all busted knuckles *those damn screens is the worst fvkd up design they have made.
Excellent video, but my engine is 2012 Q5 with 165k on OEM timing chain, so need to do balance shaft chain also before problems arise. Surprised to see that old chain, would not have bought the car if it was not done but it runs good still.
Thanks for putting these together. I'm watching this with my morning coffee before heading out to install the timing components on my engine rebuild this morning. The FSM has all this info, but it's super nice to see it being done in video vs the horrible drawings and awkward verbiage the FSM provides. Oh as a side note, my motor was at 80k KM and my timing tensioner was a bit less than 2/3rds to the sevice limit so that 65k mile estimate you gave would have been pretty bang on for my motor.
I had the cams move on me, by waiting to lock them, after removing both guides...but I didn't notice any cam movement for you? My crank position didn't move, but thankfully have wrench clearance to slightly move cams into position. What a PITA and thankfully can figure out what to move where. I just worry about valve contact from TDC position and the cams moving. It was maybe 3-4 cam link moves to get things back together. For everyone else, I'd suggest removing tension(er), remove cam bridge and then immediately lock the cams before anything else. Fantastic video and thank you!
I am putting together a list of parts and tools that I need to do this job on my 2011 Q5 2.0T I believe the CAEB engine. The kit you use in this video does not fit my car as per your website states. The one that is compatible is very similar and in parts and price. If I buy the kit and tools that fit my car, can I still use this video to replace the timing chain?
After putting everything back together and turning the motor by hand, it turns freely but I’m hear a click every time it rotate the engine. It’s combing from the front left of the cam tray. Any ideas gentlemen?
Do you guys know any reputable Audi service technicians in the So cal Region, love the content but after watching this video it was clear to me that I would just destroy my car if I attempted this my self lol
VW has a bulletin(for the gen1 TSI) if the screen is damaged on the cam bridge to replace the cam bridge, spool valve and the intake camshaft(guessing all redesigned together)
